I 


r>J.*H.4AVENDER. 


Q 


CYPKUS: 


ITS  ANCIENT  CITIES,  TOMBS,  AND  TEMPLES, 


A  NARRATIVE  OF  RESEARCHES  AX])  EXCAVATIONS 
TEX  YEARS'  RESIDENCE  IX  THAT  ISLAND. 


GENERAL  LOUIS  PALMA   DT  CESXOLA, 

MF.M.  OF  Till:    ROYAL    ACADEMY   (IF    SCIENCES,  TURIN;     HON.   MEM.  OF   THE    KOYAL    SOCIETY    OF 
LITKIlATfKK,   LONDON,  ETC. 


WITH     MAPS     AND     ILLUSTRATIONS. 


NEW   YORK: 

II  A  IIP  E  I!    £     I!  ROT  HE  US,     P  I'  B  I.  I  JS  H  K  11  S, 
r  i:  A  N  K  1. 1  N    ,s(>  i'  \  u  i:. 

1878. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1877,  by 

HAH  r  i;  u   &    I5p.  OTIM:KS, 
In  the  Office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  at  Washington. 


MY    DEAR     FRIEND, 

MR.   IIIRAAI    HITCHCOCK, 

!N    TOKEN    OF    A    FRIENDSHIP    OF    MANY    YEAK? 

WHICH     OFTEN     CALLED     FORTH    ITS 

TRUEST      TESTS.      AND 

NEVER    FAILED, 


PREFACE. 

-  --~>A*>e-  — 

MANY  American  and  English  friends  have  repeatedly 
asked  me  to  publish  an  account  of  my  researches  in  the 
island  of  Cyprus,  and  I  have  acceded  to  their  request, 
hut  not  without  grave  fears  in  consequence  of  my 
literary  inexperience  and  imperfect  knowledge  of  the 
English  language. 

To  some  extent,  also,  the  publication  of  this  narra- 
tive was  imposed  upon  me  .as  a  duty,  by  the  fact  that 
several  distinguished  scholars  had  expressed  their  fears 
as  to  whether  my  excavations  had  been  conducted  in 
a  systematic  manner,  whether  the  ruins  had  been  left 
in  a  suitable  condition  for  future  study  and  investiga- 
tion, and  whether  such  a  journal  of  the  discoveries  had 
been  kept  as  would,  from  its  details  of  how  and  where 
all  the  most  important  monuments  had  been  found, 
prove  of  interest  to  science. 

From  reasons  of  prudence  I  did  not  publish  anything 
concerning  my  diggings  so  long  as  I  was  residing  in 
the  Turkish  dominions,  and  I  have  had  no  occasion  to 
regret  the  course  I  pursued.  That  the  explorations 
I  superintended  in  that  island  were  carried  out  sys- 


Vlll  PREFACE. 

tematically,  and  all  the  most  interesting  facts  concern- 
ing them  properly  recorded,  I  hope  the  following  pages 
will  prove.  That  they  were  perhaps  not  conducted  in 
all  their  details  according  to  the  usual  manner  adopted 
and  advocated  by  most  archaeologists,  I  am  unwilling 
to  dispute,  but  there  were  many  serious  considerations 
which  I  was  not  at  liberty  to  disregard.  My  firman 
from  the  Ottoman  Government  made  it  imperative  that 
I  should  leave  the  excavated  fields  in  the  same  state 
in  which  I  found  them,  no  matter  though  they  had 
become  my  property  by  purchase.  Even  had  this  not 
been  the  case,  I  should  have  hesitated  before  spend- 
ing the  time  and  money  necessary  in  clearing  out  every 
site  where  I  dug  in  order  to  leave  it  in  a  condition 
suitable  for  future  study,  knowing  that  the  natives 
would  soon  destroy  those  remains  by  carrying  away  the 
stones  for  building  purposes,  as  they  have  clone  with 
the  ruins  laid  bare  at  Dali  by  Mr.  Lang,  according  to 
the  approved  system. 

Again,  such  a  system  of  excavating  would  have  been 
too  expensive  for  my  private  means,  and  I  had  neither 
public  funds  at  my  disposal  nor  an  organized  staff  of 
assistants,  as  those  usually  have  who  superintend  ex- 
plorations of  this  character  and  extent.  I  had  to  rely 
solely  on  my  own  personal  and  pecuniary  resources, 
and  had  to  husband  them  as  much  as  my  health  and 
my  means  required.  The  result,  however,  would  have 
been  the  same  in  any  case,  since  the  ruins  of  ancient 
edifices  which  I  brought  to  lis/ht  during  mv  ten  vears' 


PREFACE.  IX 

excavations,  consisted,  in  almost  every  instance,  only  of 
low  foundations  of  stone  walls,  and  these,  when  their 
shape  and  exact  measurement  were  ascertained,  had  no 
further  archaeological  importance. 

This  disappearance  of  ancient  monuments  in  Cyprus, 
renders  the  identification  of  its  cities  and  temples  ex- 
tremely difficult,  and  unfortunately,  also,  the  records  of 
them  which  exist  in  ancient  authors  are  so  few  and 
unconnected  that  they  mislead  as  often  as  they  assist. 
My  greatest  difficulty  in  this  respect  was  with  the  cities 
of  Throni,  Leucolla,  and  Aphrodisium. 

To  enable  the  general  reader  to  follow  with  some 
interest  the  description  of  my  researches,  I  have  given 
as  an  introduction  a  short  account  of  the  island  of 
Cyprus  from  its  pre-historic  times,  where  everything 
appears  to  be  confusion  and  darkness,  to  the  present 
day. 

Among  the  modern  writers  on  Cyprus,  I  have  con- 
sulted Lusignan,  Dapper,  Mariti,  Jauna,  Pococke, 
Danville,  La  Croix,  and  Maslatrie,  but  the  one  to 
whom  I  am  most  indebted  is  Engel,  who  with  that 
ability  and  thoroughness  in  his  researches  which  so 
pre-eminently  distinguish  in  our  age  the  German 
scholar,  has  collected  in  his  work,  "  Kypros,"  all  the 
best  and  most  reliable  information  that  could  be  had 
about  the  island  in  classical  times.  My  ignorance  of 
the  German  language  deprived  me  of  the  great  assist- 
ance I  might  have  derived  from  the  perusal  of  this 
excellent  work  while  I  resided  in  Cyprus. 


X  PREFACE. 

To  the  courtesy  and  superior  learning  of  Mr.  A.  S. 
Murray,  of  the  British  Museum,  I  owe  my  acquaintance 
with  Kngel,  and  also  many  valuahle  suggestions  which 
I  here  most  gratefully  acknowledge. 

A  catalogue  of  the  engraved  gems  found  in  the 
treasure  vaults  of  the  temple  at  Curium  is  given  in 
the  Appendix,  and  for  this  I  am  indebted  to  the  great 
kindness  of  Mr.  C.  W.  King,  M.A.  of  Trinitv  College, 
Cambridge,  the  well-known  author  of  "  The  Natural 
History  of  Gems,"  "Antique  Gems,"  and  other  works 
of  similar  character.  It  will  be  found  of  eminent  value 
to  the  student  of  the  glyptic  art. 

In  the  Appendix  will  also  be  found  a  short  description 
of  the  different  types  of  vases  found  in  Cyprus,  and  all 
the  inscriptions  which  I  discovered  or  have  seen  at 
various  places  during  my  excursions  in  the  island. 
These  inscriptions  are  in  Cypriote,  Phoenician,  and 
Greek,  with  two  or  three  in  Assyrian  incised  on  Baby- 
lonian cylinders,  and  a  bilingual  one  in  Greek  and 
Latin,  on  a  sepulchral  stele.  The  description  of  the 
vases  has  been  prepared  by  Mr.  A.  S.  Murray,  to  whom 
1  have  already  stated  my  obligations.* 

Although  this  volume  is  rich  in  illustrations,  yet  it 
contains  but  a  very  small  per  centage  of  the  Cypriote 
monuments  which  I  brought  to  light  during  my  excava- 


*  In  this  edition,  follow!  ni;  the  Index,  will  be  found  an  interesting 
summary  of  (leneral  I)i  Cesnola's  ^reat  discove1  ies,  prepared  by  Mr. 
John  Taylor  Johnston,  President  of  the  Xe\v  York  Metropolitan  Mu 
scum  ot  Art.--  hj;. 


PREFACE.  XI 

tions  in  Cyprus.  The  description  of  the  different  locali- 
ties and  of  the  tombs  and  temples  which  will  be  found 
in  these  pages,  has  been  taken  from  notes  written  by  me 
on  the  spot  at  the  time  of  the  excavations,  when  I  en- 
deavoured to  note  down  what  I  actually  saw  and  as  it 
appeared  to  me  after  a  careful  examination. 

I  entertain  the  hcpe  that  the  discoveries  which  I  had 
the  good  fortune  to  make  in  Cyprus  will  prove  more 
important  as  they  become  more  generally  known,  and 
that  they  will  justify  the  kindly  expressed  opinion  of  the 
illustrious  discoverer  of  Nineveh,  in  saying  "  they  will 
add  a  new  and  very  important  chapter  to  the  history  of 
Art  and  Archaeology." 

L.   P.    DI   CESNOLA. 

ILSINGTON  VII.T.A,  LONDON, 
April,  1877. 


CONTENTS. 


INTRODUCTION  AC'i 


CHAPTER    I. 

Appointed  American  Consul  at  Cyprus.- — Arrival  at  Lannrca  in  1865.  —  Descrip- 
tion of  the  town.  —  Larnaca  built  on  the  ruins  of  Citium.  —  Its  remains  of 
Phoenician,  Assyrian,  and  Greek  art.  —  Foundations  of  a  Phoenician  and  a 
Greek  temple  discovered.  —  Phoenician  and  Greek  inscriptions  found  in  them. 
Diggings  forbidden  by  the  Turkish  authorities. — Arrest  of  a  Consular 
employe.  —  His  release,  and  the  satisfaction  obtained  from  the  Porte  .  .  41 


CHAPTER    IL 

Country  life. — Cypriote  customs. — Description  of  Dali. — Former  excavations  of 
French  archaeologists. — Identification  of  site  of  Dali  with  that  of  Idalium. — 
Accidental  discovery  of  a  tomb. — Survey  of  the  fields. — An  extensive  necro- 
polis beneath  them. — Purchase  and  lease  of  ground. — Arrival  of  the  Firman. 
— Commencement  of  diggings. — Description  of  tombs  and  their  contents. — 
Two  tiers  of  tombs. — Charge  of  desecration  of  a  Turkish  cemetery. — Arrival 
of  the  Pasha,  and  removal  of  the  Cadi  of  Dali  ......  61 


CHAPTER    III. 

Several  Consuls  obtain  Finnans  to  excavate. — Lively  competition. — Mr.  Lang 
discovers  statues  and  bilingual  inscription.  —  Patriarchal  custom  among 
Cypriote  peasants.  —  Hadji  Jorghi. — His  imprisonment  and  sad  death. — 
Rock-cut  tombs  at  Alambra,  with  their  peculiar  pottery.--  Clay  figures 
believed  by  some  to  be  children's  toys. — Hills  of  Ambelliri.  Famous  bronze 
tablet  of  the  Duke  de  Luynes. — Village  of  Potamia.  -Discovery  of  temple 
and  tombs — Several  small  cemeteries  discovered  east  of  Dali 


XIV  CON  TK  NTS. 


CHAPTER    IV. 


PAGF-: 

.  \tliicno  a  town  of  muleteers.  —  Identified  by  M.  de  Vogue  as  (lie  site  of  Golgoi.  — 
Sketch  of  (  iolgoi.  —  Cypriote  mode  of  travelling.  —  L'nsuccessful  explorations 
in  lS6~.  —  Discovery  of  a  necropolis  east  of  Golgoi.  —  All  important  sarco- 
phagus and  other  sepulchral  monuments  discovered  there.  —  Two  men  sent  to 
(lit;  in  iS>jo  Aghios  1'hotios.  —  1  Jiscovery  of  colossal  head  and  other 
sculptuies.  —  Excitement  of  villagers.  —  Scene  of  confusion  at  night  .  .  105 


CHAPTER    V. 

iemovai  of  sculptures  to  I.arnaca.      Pirn  base  of  ground  and  recovery  of  purloined 

sculptures. — Systematic  diggings  commenced. — Discovery  of  more  sculptures. 
— Survey  of  another  field. — Discovery  of  a  temple.  —  Portions  of  it>  founda- 
tions destroyed  by  French  diggers. — Many  hundred  statue.-,  found  in  its  area. 
— The  Governor-General  wants  to  stop  the  diggings.  —  Official  correspondence 
with  the  Pasha.  —  Many  inscriptions  in  Cypriote  characters  and  with  bas- 
reliefs. — Difficulty  in  removing  the  findings  to  Larnaca  .  .  .  .125 


CHAPTER   VI. 

The  Cretan  revolution.  — Cypriotes  holding  Greek  passports  ordered  to  leave  the 
island  within  twenty  days.  — -Protection  of  the  Greek  colony  of  Cyprus. — The 
Greeks  of  Cyprus  and  the  Hellenic  Government  thank  General  Cesnoln.  - 
The  Grand  \  izier  a-ks  for  his  recall  without  success. — Bad  faith  and  abuse  of 
power  by  the  Turks.-  Refusal  to  allow  the  exportation  of  the  discoveries. — 
The  Turks  circumvented  and  the  collection  shipped  .... 


CHAPTER    VII. 

PAl'HOS. 

Exploration  of  the  S.I-'.,  coa-t  of  Cyprus. — Mode  of  travelling.  —  A  modern 
priest.— Ormidia.— An  extensive  necropolis. — No  traces  of  dwelling-houses 
or  temples.  The  >ites  of  Throni  and  Leucoila  identified  by  the  author. 
Ruin-  of  < 'atalima. — Mysterious  monolithic  cone.  —  Discovery  of  ti\e  ceme- 
teries.—Kamago-ta  probably  the  ancient  Arsinoe. — Criminals.  Kattirdj 
Janni.  the  Rubin  Hood  of  the  Levant.  —  Salnmi.--  pr;.-on  and  tomb  of  St. 
Catlieime.  Church  of  St.  P.arnabas.  -Two  tumuli.-  I-'rom  Salami-  to  Cape 
St.  Andivris  evidence  of  Phoenician  occupation.  -Cemeteries  and  rum-. — 
Mcdiivval  castles 


CONTENTS,  XV 

CHAPTER    VIII. 

PAOF- 

Paphos  founded  by  Phoenicians.  —  Temple  of  Venus  mentioned  by  Homer.  —  Its 
site  near  the  shore.  —  Other  Temple  of  Venus.  —  Paphos  built  on  nn  eminence 
further  inland.  —  City  and  temple  destroyed  by  earthquakes.  —  Temple  rebuilt 
by  Vespasian.  —  -Remains  still  visible.-  -Plan  of  the  great  temple.  —  Mosaic 
pavement.  —  Rock-cut  tombs.  —  Site  of  temple  partly  occupied  by  the  small 
villae  of  Kouklia  ••.-••...,..  aor 


CHAPTER    IX. 

Xo  ruins  of  Arsinoe  on  site  mentioned  by  Strabo.  —  Garden  and  bath  of  Venus.  - 
Neo-Paphos  founded  by  Arcadians.  —The  Turks  oppose  diggings  by  force.  — 
St.  Paul's  column.  —  Rock-cut  tombs.-  Imprisonment  of  two  notable  Turks. 
—  Cape  Acamas.  —  Ruins  of  ancient  town  of  Soloi,  its  theatre.  —  Discovery  of 
temple  with  statues  and  inscriptions.  —  Lapethus.—  Discovery  of  temple  with 
statues  and  inscriptions.  —  Cerynia  now  a  fortress.  —  Xo  remains  of  ancient 
city.  —  Scene  with  the  Turks.  —  Abbey  of  Lapa'is.  -Cerynia  to  Aphrodisitim. 
—Ruins  of  four  ancient  towns  near  the  seashore.  —  Harbour  and  temple  of 
Aphrodisium.  —  Mediaeval  castles  of  I  Suffix  vento  and  Kantara.  —  The  hermit 
Simeon.  —  Cythrea.  —  Discovery  of  two  temples.  —  Statues  and  inscriptions.  _ 
Xicosia.  —  Tombs  of  the  oldest  period.  —  The  lepers  .  .  .  .  .217 


CHAPTER    X. 
AMATHUS. 

Amathus  founded  by  Ph<cnicians.-  Worship  of  Tynan  Ik-rcuk-s.  -Human  sacri- 
fices to  Kronos. — Capture  and  destruction  by  Richard  King  (if  Kii"-land 
Ruin-,  city  walls,  rock-cut  tombs. — Mode  of  digging.  — Stone-built  tombs  at 
depth  of  forty-five  feet. — Fatal  accident  to  Dr.  Siegismund. —Discovery  of 
large  sculptured  sarcophagus,  its  similarity  to  Lycian  Frie/e  in  liritish 
Museum  — l!ro:i/e  shield  with  repousse  work. — Silver  bowl  with  engraved 
design. — Search  for  copper  mines.  —  Fasula. — Discovery  of  temple,  statues, 
and  inscriptions. --False  alarm  in  camp  at  night.  — Site  of  Tamassus.  —  Return 
to  Amathus.  —  Removal  of  sarcophagus. — Visit  of  the  Governor  of  l.ima^sol. 
—  Ruins  of  Aghios  Tyclu.na  — Departure  for  Curium  .....  249 


CHAPTER   XI. 

CURIUM. 

Curium  founded  by  Argives.  —Identification  of  site. -Traces  of  town  in  plain 
below. —Theatre,  several  temples.  — Hippodrome  and  aqueduct. —Cisterns  or 
granaries,  public  wells.  -Kxploration  of  one  of  the  temple-.  -Mosaic  pave- 
ment.--Rock-cut  vaults  containing  treasure.— Description  <>f  their  contents. 


XVI  CONTEXTS. 


PAGE 

---Gold  armlets  with  name  of  king  of  Paphos.—  Tombs  in  neighbouring  lulls 
and  plain. — Discovery  of  Temple  of  Apollo  Hylates. — Greek  inscriptions.  - 
Statues  from  the  neighbourhood.--  Journey  to  (.'ape  Galto. —  Discovery  ol 
Kuri,  its  cemetery.-  Wild  cats  and  asps.  —  Ruins  of  Greek  convent  at 
Acrotiri.  —  Return  to  l.arnaca.-  End  of  explorations  Departure  from  the 
island  .............  293 


APPENDICES. 

THE   RIXGS    AND    GEMS    IN   THE   TREASURE   OF   CURIUM         .  353 

OX    THE    POTTERY    OF    CYPRUS 393 

GREEK   INSCRIPTIONS .         .  413 

INSCRIPTIONS    IN    THE    CYPRIOTE   CHARACTER       ....  437 
INSCRIPTION'S    IN   THE    PIKENlCIAX   CHARACTER        .         .         .441 


443 


THE  CESXOEA  COEEECTIOX  IX  THE  METROPOLITAN  MUSE- 
UM OF  ART,  XE\V  YORK,  BY  JOHX  TAYEOR  JOHXSTOX, 
ESQ.,  PRESIDENT  OF  THE  MUSEUM  ......  451 


«& 

r€ 


^4 


'i>  •=, 


.';J-sJ 


LIST    OF    ILLUSTRATIONS. 


PAGE 

40 


TERRA-COTTA  VASE         .        .        . 
VIEW  OF  LARNACA    .        .        .     . 

SCULPTURED  SLAB  IN  BERLIN       . 
SEPULCHRAL  MONUMENT  .        .     . 
TERRA-COTTA  GROUP      .        .        . 
TERRA-COTTA  STATUETTES        .     . 
TOMBS  AT  LARNACA        .        .        - 
LID  OF  SARCOPHAGUS        .        •     • 
ALABASTER  VASES  .        .        .        - 
SEPULCHRAL  CIPPI     .        .        .     . 

SARCOPHAGUS  ..... 

ARCHAIC  VASE    ..... 

TERRA-COTTA  MASK        .        .        . 
VASE  FROM  DALI        .         .        .     . 

TOM  us  AT  DALI      .         .        .        . 

INSIDE  OF  TOMB         .        .        .     . 

VASE  WITH   PHOENICIAN    INSCRIP- 
TION ...... 

GOLD  ORNAMENTS  (DALI) 
VASES  FROM  DALI  . 
GLASS  VASES       ... 
DOUBLE  TOMBS       .        .        . 
ROMAN  LAMPS 
BRONZE  BOWL,  ENGRAVED      . 
TERRA-COTTA  FROM  SOLI  . 

BRON/.ES    FROM    I)ALI        „  . 

COPPER  SPEAR  HEADS  AND  TOOLS 

FROM    Al.AMBRA     .  .  .     pi.     V. 

TERRA-COTTA  FIGURES   .         .         ,,   vi. 
VASES  FROM  AI.AMMRA  ,.  vii. 


PAC.lt 

VASE  FROM  ALAMBRA  ...  95 
TOMBS  OF  DALI  .  .  .  .  96 
STONE  HEAD  ....  98 
VASES  FROM  DALI  .  .  pi.  viii. 
VASES  FROM  DALI  .  .  .  101 
EGYPTIAN  GREEN-GLA/.ED  VASE  .  102 
TERRA-COTTA  VASES  FROM  DALI,  pi.  ix. 
STATUE  OE  APHRODITE  .  .  .  106 
SCULPTURED  STEI..K  .  .  .  110 
SARCOPHAGUS  FROM  GOLGOI  .  .  pi.  x. 

DOG    FOUND   WITH    SARCOPHAGUS        114 

ENGRAVED  PATERA  .  .  pi.  .\i. 
SCULPTURED  STEL.E  .  .  .  117 
SCENE  AT  GOLGOI  .  .  .122 
COLOSSAL  HEAD  .  .  .  .  i2T, 
PHOENICIAN  WINE  PITCHER  .  124 
Two  STATUES 129 

....  131 

STATUE  OF  PRIEST   .        .        .     .  132 
.,              HERCULES  .         .        pi.  xii. 

SCULPTURED  PEDESTAL    .        .     .  136 

PLAN  OF  TEMPLE          .        .        .  139 

TERRA-COTTA  FIGURE       .        .     .  140 

STONE  HEADS        .        .        .  141 

STATUE 143 

BAS-RELIEF  OF  SERPENT       .        .  144 

Two  STATUES 145 

SCULPTURED  VASE         .        .         .  145 

FJAS-RELIEF — BANQUET      .         .     .  140 

STATUE 149 


XV111 


LIST    OF    ILLUSTRATIONS. 


Two  TKRRA-COTTAS  .  .  . 
BAS-RELIEFS  WITH  CYPRIOTE  IN- 
SCRIPTIONS .  .  .  . 
STATUE  OF  PRIEST  .  .  .  . 
Two  STATUES  . 
DIANA — Two  UKADS  .  .  . 
Two  STATUES  .  .  .  . 
KNKEI.IM;  WARRIOR  .  .  . 
TRiri.K  GEKYON  . 

VENUS 

LAMP 

VUTIVK  SCULPTURES         .        .     . 

SCULPTURED  PLINTHS  . 

GREEK  STATUK         .        .        .     . 

STATUE p 

TERRA-COTTA  STATUETTES       .     . 
BOY  WITH  GOOSE 
MODERN  PRIEST        .        .        .     . 
Two  VASES  .         .         .         . 

MONOLITH 

TERRA-COTTA  COFFIN   . 

Two  HEADS 

HEAD  OF  CYBEI.E 
TERRA-COTTA  FIGURES     .        .     . 
RUINS  OF  TEMPLE  OF  PAITIOS     . 
FEET  IN  SCR  in  ED        .        .        .     . 
TEKRA-COTTA  HEAD 
FRAGMENT  OF  VASE         .        .     . 
PLAN  OF  TEMPLE  AT  PAPIIOS 
RUINS  OF  TEMPLE    .         .         .     . 
KnoDiAN  AMPHORA 

TOM  PS 

CYPEI.E 

STAIULITE  AND  Two  HE\DS 

SAMIAN  VASE 

IVORY  BAS-RELIEF    .        .        .     . 

STATUE  . 

SIMEON  'iin;  HERMIT       .         .     . 

TLKKA-IOTTAS        . 

TERR  \-COTTA  VASES         .         .     . 

SERPENTINE   VA-,E 


I'AC.K 

150 


152 
'53 
154 
155 
I56 

157 
157 
I5S 

J59 
1  60 
xiii. 
164 
176 

1  So 
181 
189 
190 
190 
191 
203 
205 
207 
207 

2IO 
212 
214 

2  If) 
224 
229 
230 
230 

-33 

240 
241 


247 


255 
256 


HEAD 

HERCULES  AND  LION    . 

L.XCAVATING  TOM  US 

TOMBS  AT  AMATHUS     . 

SARCOPHAGUS     FROM    AMATHUS, 

pi.  xiv.-xv. 

TERRA-COTTA  BOATS 

PLAN  OF  TOM  is 

DOOR  OF  TOMB 

X  A  NTH  us  FRIEZE 

LID  OF  SARCOPHAGUS 

ARCHAIC  VASE 

INTERIOR  OF  TOMB  . 

SARCOPHAGUS 

ALABASTER  VAM;S    . 

TEKRA-COTTA    VASE    AND     STA- 
TUETTE     

PORCELAIN  FIGURES         .        .     . 

PATERA  FROM  AMATHUS 

Boss 

THUS 

INTERIOR  OF  TOMB 

STATUE  OF  VEILED  FEMALE   . 

LID  OF  SARCOPHAGI'S  . 

VIEW  OF  CURIUM     . 

LARKING        .... 

SKELETON          .... 

FIGURE  CARRYING  WATER    . 

MOSAIC 

PLAN  OF  TREASURE-CHAMBERS 

GOLD  BRACELET 

Ac, ATE    SCEPTRE      . 

GOLD  FINGER-RINGS 

GOLD  EARRINGS    . 

GOLD  BRACELETS 

GOLD  DIADEMS 

M  ISCELLANEOUS  OBJECTS 

GOLD  PATERA 

GOLD  XECKLACE 

1  )o.,      DO ,  -xxiii. 

Do.,      DO.  •         •         •    „  xxiv. 


II 


LIST    OF    ILLUSTRATIONS. 


XIX 


GOLD  NECKLACE  AND  EARRINGS 

pi.  xxv. 

GOLD  OBJECTS  FROM  CURIUM  .  324 
CRYSTAL  VASE  ....  325 
GOLD  TOP  OF  VASE  .  .  .  326 
GOLD  AND  SILVER  RINGS  AND 

PENDANTS         .         .         .  pi.  xxvi. 
GOLD  ORNAMENTS  FROM  CURIUM 

pi.  xxvii.-xxviii. 

PATERA  FROM  CURIUM  .  .  .  329 
TERRA-COTTA  CHARIOT  .  .331 
TERRA-COTTA  VASE  FROM  CURIUM 

pi.  xxix. 

Two  VASES 333 

BRONZE  TRIPOD  .        .        .  335 
BRONZE  CANDELABRA      .        .     .     336 
PATERA  WITH  DEER  AND  PAPY- 
RUS         337 

BRONZE  OBJECTS  .  .  .  pi.  xxx. 
TERRA-COTTA  HEADS  .  .  .  344 
STONE  FIGURES  .  ...  344 
BRONZE  STATUETTE  .  .  .  345 


PAGE 

34<3 


347 
347 


MARBLE  STATUETTE 

THREE  SMALL  FIGURES 

TERRA-COTTA  VASE 

STONE  HEADS      ....     350 

NEMESIS 392 

ENGRAVED  GEMS  .  pi.  xxxi.-xli. 
ARCHAIC  VASE  .  ...  394 
ARCHAIC  VASES  .  .  .  pi.  xlii. 
LATER  VASES  ....  pi.  xliii. 
ARCHAIC  VASE  ....  401 
ARCHAIC  \JASES  .  .  .  .  402 
VASES  .  404,405,406,408,410,411 
BRONZE  CALDRON  .  .  .  .  412 
DESIGNS  ON  PAINTED  VASES 

pi.  xliv.-xlvii. 

BRONZE  BOWL      ....     440 
INSCRIPTIONS  IN  CYPRIOTE  CHA- 
RACTER     .         .         .         pi.  i.-viii. 
INSCRIBED  VASE  .        .        .     442 

INSCRIPTIONS      IN      PHCENICIAN 

CHARACTER       .         .        pi.  ix.-xii. 
GREEK  TERKA-COTTA  VASE          .     456 


CYPRUS; 


ITS     ANCIENT     CITIES,     TOMBS,     AND 
TEMPLES. 


INTRODUCTION. 

BESIDES  the  natural  advantages  arising  from  its  size, 
fertility,  and  wealth,  Cyprus  derived  from  its  position, 
within  a  day's  sail  of  the  coast  of  Syria,  great  import- 
ance in  the  remote  ages  when  civilisation  had  only 
begun  to  dawn  in  Greece,  but  had  already  advanced 
to  a  high  degree  in  Assyria  and  Egypt.  In  later  times 
this  position  between  the  East  and  the  West  gives  its 
history  a  chequered  character  of  war  and  conquest. 
But  we  must  first  go  back  to  a  period  when  Greece  and 
the  Western  nations  were  of  no  political  importance, 
and  were  only  of  value  to  the  East  for  the  sake  of  trade. 
The  great  traders  of  this  period  were  the  Phoenicians, 
and  it  is  beyond  doubt  that  in  the  course  of  this 
early  commerce  the  Greeks  obtained  several  important 
elements  of  their  later  civilisation  ;  their  alphabet  and 
systems  of  weights  and  measures  appear  to  have  been 
derived  from  this  source,  and  in  recent  years  it  has 
been  argued  with  great  show  of  reason  that  the  Greeks 
had  also  learned  from  the  Phoenicians  what  has 
been  called  the  alphabet  of  art,  that  is  a  knowledge 
of  the  technical  processes  of  such  industrial  arts 


2  CYPRUS. 

as   weaving,    embroidery,    pottery,    metal-working,    and 
wood-carving."" 

To  a  people  confined  as  the  Phoenicians  originally 
were  to  a  narrow  strip  of  coast,  skilled  and  largely 
occupied  with  metal-working,  as  they  are  known  to 
have  been  in  the  time  of  Homer,  Cyprus  with  its 
unlimited  wealth  of  copper  must  have  presented  an 
attraction  which  its  close  proximity  would  enable  them 
to  easily  gratify.  At  what  time  they  may  have  first 
settled  in  the  island  it  is  impossible  to  ascertain  from 
the  accumulation  of  legends  which  has  gathered  round 
and  obscured  the  original  facts.  This  much  has  been 
established,  that  Cyprus  was  the  Chittim  +  of  the  Old 
Testament,  though  no  doubt  this  name  was  also 
at  times  extended  to  the  \Yestern  nations  generally. 
Josephus  (i.  7)  expressly  identifies  it  with  Cyprus,  and 
other  writers  followed  him,  while  the  existence  of  a 
town  of  the  name  of  Citium  in  the  island,  is  itself  a 
strong  corroboration  of  the  statement.  What  authority 
Eusebius  may  have  had  for  saying  that  the  town  of 
Paphos  had  been  founded  by  Israelites  expelled  in 
the  time  of  the  first  Judge  Athaniel  we  do  not  know, 
but  the  assertion  is  in  direct  conflict  with  the  other 
traditions,  and  may  perhaps  be  best  dismissed.  The 
early  Phoenician  settlers  appear  to  have  retained 
their  connection  with  the  mother  country,  and  in  the 
time  of  Hiram,  King  of  Tyre,  a  contemporary  of  David 
and  Solomon  (circa  B.C.  1000),  we  find  them  revolting 

*  See  Brunn,  '•  Die  Kunst  bei  Homer."  and  A.  S.  Murray  in  the 
Contemporary  /iVr/i'iv.  January,  1X74. 

t  Chittim  was  a  son  of  Javan,  grandson  of  Jnphet,  and  great  grand- 
son of  Xoah,  and  it  has  been  conjectured  that  it  was  this  Canaanite 
race  of  the  Chittim  who  emigrated  to  Cyprus  and  gave  the  island  their 
name.  The  biblical  CapJitor  has  also  been  identified  as  another  name 
of  Cyprus.  In  early  Kgyptian  documents  it  occurs  as  /v//.  />//</.  and 
kef  a.  See  R.  S.  1'oole.  Trans.  Roy.  Soc.  Lit.  xi..  pt.  i.  New  Series. 


INTRODUCTION.  3 

against  the  tribute  levied  by  Tyre.  The  revolt  was 
reduced  by  Hiram,  and  it  would  appear  from  the 
association  of  Chittim  with  the  destruction  of  Tyre  in 
the  prophecy  of  Isaiah,  that  Cyprus  was  still  in  his 
time  (the  latter  part  of  the  eighth  century  B.C.)  in 
intimate  relations  with  Tyre.  There  is  reason  to 
believe  that  the  Phoenician  settlers  had  been  joined  by 
emigrants  from  the  kindred  race  of  Cilicians  and  others 
from  Phrygia,  but  it  is  not  thought  that  Egypt  had  ever 
sent  any  colonists  thither,  though  there  is  the  state- 
ment of  Herodotus  that  the  population  consisted  partly 
of  /Ethiopians.  We  have  thus  on  the  one  hand  a 
Semitic  population  from  whom  this  island  took  the 
name  of  Chittim.  the  town  of  Citium  having  been 
apparently  the  first  settlement.  It  is  not  likely  that 
they  had  any  strong  sense  of  political  independence, 
but  probable  rather  that  they  lived  quietly  and  indus- 
triously for  the  sake  of  trade  and  commerce.  On  the 
other  hand  we  have  a  Greek  population  through  whom 
this  island  was  known  as  Kypros*  a  name  which  it 
has  been  proposed  to  derive  from  the  Hebrew  Kophcr 
(Henna  —  Laicsouia  alba],  a  plant  which  grows  in  abun- 
dance there,  and  in  ancient  times  was  made  to  produce 
a  variety  of  oils  and  salves.  On  this  theory  the  deriva- 
tion from  the  name  of  a  plant  would  correspond  with 
the  derivation  of  "  Rhodes  "  from  the  rose.f 

There  will  be  occasion  afterwards  to  speak  of  the 
severr.l  colonies  sent  to  Cyprus  from  the  mainland  oi 
Greece,  but  meantime  we  find,  as  usual  with  the  Greeks, 
a  tendency  of  the  Cyprian  legends  to  connect  the 
history  of  the  island  with  the  fortunes  of  the  Greeks  in 


*   Stephanos  •   Kinrpos  .  .  .  '/  dni>  TOV  (pvofifvov  tivSovs  Kvirpov,  Kngel,,  ]).  14. 

t  The  other  more  or  less  poetic  names  of  Cyprus  were  :  Aeria,  Aerosa. 
Akamantis,  Amathusia,  Aphrodisia,  Aspelia,  Collinia,  Kerastes,  Krvptos, 
Me'inis,  Ophiusa,  Makaria,  Paphos,  Sphekeia.  and  Tharsis.  For  the 
various  explanations  of  these  names,  see  Kngel,  "  Kypros,"  i.,  pp.  i  1-24. 


4  CYPRUS. 

the  Trojan  war.  The  legendary  hero  of  Cyprus  was 
Cinyras,  to  whom  was  traced  the  invention  of  the 
hammer,  anvil,  tongs,  and  other  tools  used  in  metal- 
working,  and  it  was  he  who  ruled  the  island  when  the 
Trojan  expedition  started.  Like  the  other  Greek 
princes  he  was  requested  to  take  part  in  the  war,  and 
we  have  in  Homer  (Iliad,  xi.  19)  a  description  of  the 
armour  which  he  presented  to  Agamemnon  : 

"  Atricles  summoned  all  to  arms  ;   to  arms  himself  disposed  : 
First  on  his  legs  he  put  bright  greaves  with  silver  buttons  closed  ; 
Then  with  rich  cuirass  armed  his  breast  which  Cinyras  bestowed 
To  gratify  his  roval  guest,  for  even  to  Cyprus  flowed 
The  unbounded  fame  of  those  designs  the  Greeks  proposed  for  Troy, 
And  therefore  gave  to  him  those  arms  and  wished  his  purpose  joy. 
Ten  rows  of  a/ure  mixed  with  black  ;  twelve  golden  like  the  sun, 
Twice  ten  in  tin  in  beaten  paths  did  through  the  armour  run  ; 
Three  serpents  to  the  gorget  crept  that  like  three  rainbows  shined, 
Such  as  by  Jove  are  fixed  in  clouds  when  wonders  are  divined." 

( Chapman's  Translation. ) 

It  was  said,  however,  that  Agamemnon's  armour 
turned  out  to  be  worthless,  but  this  was  told  rather  to 
reflect  on  the  character  of  Palamedes,  who  had  been 
sent  to  solicit  the  aid  of  Cinyras,  and  had  kept  for 
himself  the  really  valuable  presents  entrusted  to  him 
for  Agamemnon  by  the  Cyprian  king,  substituting  the 
worthless  armour,  and  saying  that  Cinyras  would  send 
one  hundred  ships,  none  of  which  ever  appeared  ;  other 
stories  set  Cinyras  himself  in  an  unfavourable  light. 
The  Greeks  on  their  way  to  Troy  had  stopped  at 
Cyprus,  and  been  very  hospitably  received  by  him;  he 
undertook  to  supply  them  with  provisions  during  the 
war,  but  did  not  fulfil  his  promise,  and  for  this  incurred 
the  deep  anger  of  Agamemnon. 

According  to  another  story,  Cinyras  had  promised 
Menelaus  to  send  iiftv  ships  to  Troy,  but  when  the 
time  came  sent  only  one.  making  up  the  number 
with  small  ships  made  of  clay,  with  crews  of  clay 


INTRODUCTION.  5 

figures.""  Owing  to  this  treachery  Agamemnon,  on  his 
return  from  Troy,  landed  at  Cyprus,  expelled  Cinyras, 
and  settled  part  of  his  Greek  followers  at  Amathus. 
It  is  not  unreasonable  to  suppose  that  stories  of  this 
kind,  which  present  the  Cypriotes  as  connected  with  the 
Greeks  but  yet  faithless  towards  them,  indicate  the  true 
position  of  affairs  previous  to  the  time  when  the  Greeks 
became  the  more  powerful  part  of  the  population. 

The  shape  of  this  island  was  not  inappropriately 
compared  by  the  ancients  to  that  of  a  deer's  skin  or  a 
fleece  spread  out.  Eastward  it  extends  in  a  long  pro- 
montory ending  in  Cape  Dinaretum  (now  St.  Andreas) 
before  which  are  several  small  islands  known  as  the 
"  Kleides  "  or  "Keys."  On  the  north  coast  projects 
Cape  Crommyon  (Kormakiti) ;  on  the  west  Cape  Acamas 
(St.  Epiphanio) ;  and  on  the  south  Cape  Curias  (Cape 
Gatto).  Between  these  main  extremities  are  numerous 
points  or  promontories  connected  by  an  abundance  of 
bays  favourable  to  shipping. 

The  principal  mountain  ranges  are  in  the  west  and 
south-west,  the  highest  point  being  that  of  Mount 
Olympus  (Trodos  or  Troodos),  6590  feet,  nearly  mid- 
way between  the  towns  of  Curium  in  the  south,  and 
Soli  in  the  north.  From  Mount  Olympus  a  view  of  the 
whole  island  can  be  obtained.  Whether  it  was  on  this 
mountain,  or  on  a  promontory  of  the  same  name,  which 
is  said  to  have  been  on  the  north-east  side  of  the  island, 
that  the  Temple  of  Venus  Acraea  stood  is  not  certain. 
To  that  temple  no  women  were  admitted.  Next  in 
height  to  Mount  Olympus  is  Mount  Adelphi  (Maschera), 
5380  feet,  and  still  in  the  same  range,  but  farther  east- 
ward, is  a  hill  rising  to  4730  feet,  the  ancient  name  of 
which  is  not  determined.  In  a  western  prolongation 
of  this  chain  we  have  Mount  Sta.  Croce,  2300  feet,  on 

*  See  clay  boats  engraved,  p.  259. 


6  CYPRUS. 

which  in  ancient  times  was  a  Temple  to  Jupiter.  This 
temple  was  in  ruins  when  the  Empress  Helen,  mother 
of  Constantine,  visited  Cyprus  ;  and  a  tradition,  from 
which  the  hill  derives  its  present  name,  asserts  that 
Saint  Helen  caused  a  chapel  to  be  erected  on  the  spot, 
and  deposited  in  it  a  piece  of  the  cross  which  she  had 
brought  from  Jerusalem.  An  English  traveller,  John 
Locke,  says  that  he  saw  the  relic  in  Cyprus  in  1553. 
There  is  a  ruined  Greek  convent  now  on  the  top  of  the 
hill,  and  on  the  eastern  slope  is  another  convent  dedicated 
to  Sta.  Barbara.  The  northern  coast  is  mountainous 
along  its  whole  extent,  from  Cape  Crommyon  to  Cape 
Dinaretum,  but  the  highest  points  do  not  exceed  3340 
feet.  Mount  Buffavento  is  3240  feet,  Mount  Pentedak- 
tylon  2480  feet,  and  Mount  Elias  2810  feet.  It  is  not 
known  from  which  mountain  it  was  that  the  volcanic 
eruption  took  place  in  the  time  of  Titus,  doing  very  great 
damage  to  the  neighbourhood.  The  island  generally 
seems  to  have  been  subject  to  earthquakes ;  Paphos 
being  the  particular  victim,  and  next  to  it  Amathus. 
From  the  mountains  rose  numerous  streams,  but  onlv 

./ 

two  or  three  rivers  of  any  consequence.  The  Pedios, 
or  Pedaios,  which  enters  the  sea  between  Salamis  anct 
Famag,,sta,  was,  and  still  is,  the  most  important  of  these. 
Its  course  is  eastward,  through  Nicosia  and  part  of  the 
large  fertile  plain  of  Mesaoria,  \vhich  lies  behind  the 
mountain  ranges  on  the  north  and  south  sides  of  the 
island  ;  it  is  called  now  the  Pedia.  In  1330  it  was  swollen 
by  heavy  rains  and  inundated  Nicosia,  to  the  destruction 
of  much  life  and  property.  For  some  weeks  the  plain  of 
Mesaoria  was  like  a  lake.  The  Clarius  near  Soli,  and  the 
Bocarus  at  Paphos  are  now  dry  most  of  the  vear,  while 
the  Tetius  is  only  a  winter  torrent.  The  Lapethus  runs 
all  the  year,  and  the  Lycus  is  a  respectable  stream. 

Originally,   it   is   said,  the  whole   island  was  covered 
with  wood,  which  first  beiran  to  be  cleared  and  used  for 


INTRODUCTION.  7 

the  purpose  of  mining,  and  afterwards  on  a  large  scale 
for  ship  building.  For  the  latter  the  pines,  which  in 
historical  times  grew  abundantly,  were  employed,  and 
in  some  cases  also  the  cedar,  which  is  said  to  have 
surpassed  in  Cyprus  even  its  dimensions  on  the  Lebanon 
hills.  In  the  neighbourhood  of  Paphos  and  Amathus 
were  grown  large  quantities  of  grain,  while  the  island 
generally  is  spoken  of  by  ancient  writers  as  possessing  in 
great  abundance  the  largest  variety  of  natural  products. 
The  plant  Cyprus  (Henna — Lawsonia  alba),  from  which 
the  island  is  said  to  have  derived  its  name,  has  already 
been  mentioned,  and  in  the  preparation  of  dyes  and 
salves  from  this  and  other  plants  arose  a  considerable 
industry  in  ancient  times.  The  cultivation  of  hemp 
and  flax  was  another  profitable  occupation.  But  the 
chief  source  of  wealth  was  in  the  copper  mines,  which 
yielded  not  only  a  finer  quality  of  copper,  but  also  a 
greater  supply  of  it  than  any  other  mines  known  to  the 
ancients.  It  was  from  its  prevalence  and  general  use  that 
its  proper  name  of  Xa/Wco?  Kinrpios  —  Aes  Cyprium,  came 
to  be  shortened  into  Cyprum,  and  anglicised  into  copper. 
The  principal  mines  were  at  Tamassus,  Amathus,  Soli, 
Curium,  and  near  the  promontory  of  Crommyon.  The 
supply  of  iron  was  considerable,  while  silver  and  gold 
were  also  found,  but  apparently  not  in  large  quantities. 
There  is  no  doubt  that  under  the  original  Greek 
settlers,  and  for  centuries  after  them,  while  the  unlimited 
natural  resources  of  the  island  were  being  developed, 
Cyprus  had  maintained  a  high  character  among  the 
Greek  islands.  But  in  time  the  easily  acquired  products 
of  nature,  the  wealth  arising  from  trade,  the  enervating 
climate,""  and  not  least,  perhaps,  the  intercourse  with 
the  East  rendered  the  people  of  Cyprus  proverbial  as  the 

*  Of  the  climate,  Martial  (ix.  92)  says,  Infmiein  nimio  calore 
Cyprum.  Louis  IX.  spent  a  winter  in  Cyprus  while  on  his  crusade 
1248-9,  and  lost  twenty-six  of  his  nublest  knights. 


8  CYPRUS. 

happiest  beings  on  earth  as  far  as  luxury  and  pleasure 
could  make  them  so,  and  the  natural  consequence  of 
this  was  that  there  was  no  excess  or  refinement  oi 
indulgence  which  they  did  not  practise.  In  this  the 
worship  of  Aphrodite  played  an  important  part.  To  a 
great  extent  it  decided  the  character  of  public  and 
private  morality  throughout  the  island,  and  that  the 
result  was  highly  disgraceful  may  be  seen  from  numerous 
passages  in  the  ancient  writers."""  Everyone  knows  the 
description  which  Herodotus  gives  (i.  igg)  of  the  custom 
of  Babylonian  women  at  the  Temple  of  Mylitta,  the 
Assyrian  counterpart  of  Aphrodite,  and  he  adds  that  the 
same  thing  prevailed  in  Cvprus.  Later  writers  entirely 
confirm  what  he  says,  and  the  pictures  which  they  draw 
of  the  grand  festivals  to  the  goddess  at  Paphos  leave 
little  for  the  imagination  of  man  to  invent,  one  would 
think,  in  the  way  of  gross  indulgence.  It  may  be  some 
defence  to  say  that  the  prescripts  of  religion  required 
much  of  this,  but  there  seems  to  have  been  little  or 
nothing  to  counteract  it.  There  are,  for  instance,  only 
slight  traces  of  there  having  existed  such  means  for  the 
athletic  training  of  the  youth  as  are  found  elsewhere 
among  the  Greeks.  The  mass  of  the  people  were 
apparently  also  stupid,  the  nickname  of  /3oug  Kv-pios 
being  an  expression  similar  to  (Bouoria  £<?,  and  in  Greece 
generally  they  were  spoken  of  with  contempt.  Much  of 
the  blame  was  due  to  the  kings,  who  affected  the  luxuri- 
ousness  and  ceremony  of  Oriental  princes.  An  example 
of  how  the  King  of  Xeo-Paphos  lived  is  preserved  in 
Athenaeus  (vi.  257),  in  a  fragment  of  a  corned}-  by  Anti- 
phanes.  During  dinner  this  monarch  was  kept  cool  by 
doves  hovering  around  him.  To  allure  them  he  was 
salved  with  Tynan  oil,  made  from  a  fruit  which  they 
liked,  and  recognised  the  odour  of.  But  as  they  ap- 

*  See   Terence.   Aclclphi.    ii.    2  :     Athenreus,   xiii.    586-594,   iii.    100  : 
Plautus,  Pit-nulus,  1251,  fol. 


INTRODUCTION.  g 

preached  to  settle  on  his  head,  attendants  warded  them 
carefully  off,  and  the  constant  flutter  of  their  wings 
produced  the  necessary  effect  of  cooling. 

As  regards  the  monarchical  institutions  of  Cyprus,  it 
is  known  that  both  Aristotle  and  Theophrastus  wrote  on 
that  subject,  but  their  special  writings  have  been  lost, 
and  only  a  very  few  facts  remain.  Besides  the  kings 
who  ruled  the  several  towns,  much  as  the  Persian 
satraps  ruled  the  provinces  of  Asia  Minor,  there  was  an 
aristocracy  which  is  only  known  for  its  services  to  the 
kings.  From  the  aristocracy  was  chosen  the  Kolakes, 
a  sort  of  secret  police,  whose  business  it  was  to  make 
enquiries  about  all  persons  who  might  be  dangerous  to 
the  state.  They  were  divided  into  two  classes,  called 
Gergini  and  Promalanges.  The  duty  of  the  former 
was  to  mix  with  the  people  in  their  places  of  public 
resort,  and  even  in  their  private  houses,  and  to  report 
daily  what  they  found  out  against  anyone  to  the 
Anaktes  or  Supreme  Court,  consisting  of  the  immediate 
relatives  of  the  king.  When  further  investigation 
appeared  to  be  necessary,  the  Promalanges  were  then 
required  to  undertake  it.  By  means  of  disguise  and 
other  precautions  they  were  unknown  to  the  people. 
On  the  other  hand  there  were  the  public  councils  of  a 
Boulc  and  Gerusia,  as  in  Ephesus,  and  apparently  the 
example  of  Athens  was  to  some  extent  followed  in  the 
arrangement  of  public  affairs.  Solon  passed  the  latter 
part  of  his  life  in  Cyprus,  and  died  there,  but  it  does 
not  appear  that  he  had  exercised  much  influence  in 
improving  the  laws  and  public  institutions.*  The 


*  It  may  have  been  from  his  influence  that  the  law  came  into 
existence  which  prescribed  the  punishment  of  death  to  any  one  who 
killed  an  ox  used  for  ploughing,  since  at  Athens  the  slaughter  of  yoke 
oxen  was  also  severely  punished  ;  again,  the  law  which  required  a. 
person  who  committed  suicide  to  be  left  unburied,  resembles  a  law 
existing  in  Athens. 


10  CYPRUS. 

kings  traced  their  lineal  descent  to  the  original  founders 
of  the  several  towns  where  they  ruled,  and  in  some 
respects  they  may  have  maintained  the  traditions  of 
the  princes  of  the  heroic  age. 

Of  extraordinary  importance  was  also  the  hierarchy 
of  Cyprus,  in  particular  the  priestly  family  of  the 
Cinyraclae  at  old  Paphos,  whose  ancestors  had  intro- 
duced the  worship  of  Aphrodite  from  Phoenicia,  as 
tradition  went.  Paphos,  like  Delphi  in  Greece,  was  the 
centre  of  the  earth,  and  the  Cinyradae  were  at  the  head 
of  it,  both  in  political  and  religious  matters.  The 
oldest  of  them  for  the  time  being  was  the  chief,  with 
whom  the  others  of  the  family  were  associated  as  a 
council  of  priests.  His  power  in  regard  to  religious 
affairs  extended  over  the  island.  At  Amathus  also  the 
priestly  family  were  of  the  race  of  the  Cinyradae,  but 
their  power  was  not  so  considerable.  An  entirely  new 
constitution  was  given  to  the  island  when  Ptolemy  the 
First  conquered  it  and  expelled  the  race  of  kings. 

Copper-mining  and  the  production  of  swords,  armour, 
and  other  articles  in  bronze,  formed  the  staple  trade  of 
Cyprus  from  the  heroic  ages  down  to  the  times  of  the 
Romans.  That  the  quality  of  the  armour  was  highly 
prized  in  Homer's  time  may  be  gathered  from  his 
description  of  the  present  made  by  Cinyras  to  Aga- 
memnon, already  quoted,  and  it  retained  its  reputation. 
Alexander  the  Great  had  a  Cyprus  sword  given  him  by 
the  King  of  Citium,  and  praised  for  its  lightness  and 
good  quality,  while  Demetrius  Poliorcetes,  when  besieg- 
ing Rhodes,  received  two  suits  of  armour  from  Cyprus, 
which  according  to  tradition  the  maker  tested  by 
exposing  them  at  twenty  paces  to  darts  shot  from  an 
engine  for  this  purpose.  The  metal  stood  this  test  so 
successfully  that  Demetrius  took  one  of  the  suits  for  his 
own  wear.  The  copper  of  Cyprus  was  in  demand  in 
most  places  of  the  ancient  world.  Next  to  the  working 


INTRODUCTION.  II 

of  it  stood  ship-building  (Ezekiel,  xxvii.  7).  The  ships 
are  said  to  have  been  very  large,  and  it  is  related  of 
Demetrius  Poliorcetes  that  he  had  one  built  in  Cyprus 
of  cedar-wood,  130  feet  long.  As  regards  the  fine 
arts  it  does  not  appear,  to  judge  from  literary  records 
as  they  now  exist,  that  Cyprus  had  ever  held  an 
important  place.  The  name  of  only  one  sculptor 
has  been  handed  down — Styppax,  a  contemporary  of 
Pericles,  and  the  author  of  a  celebrated  sculpture 
called  the  Splanchnoptes,  representing  a  slave  roast- 
ing the  entrails  of  an  animal,  and  blowing  up  the 
fire  with  his  mouth  (Pliny,  Nat.  Hist.,  xxxiv.  81, 
xxii.  44;  Overbeck,  Geschichte,  i.  p.  331,  2nd  ed.). 
From  an  inscription  in  Rhodes  (Hirschfeld,  Tituli 
Statuariorum,  No.  67  ;  Overbeck,  Antike  Schrift- 
quellen,  Xo.  2020)  and  from  another  inscription  in 
Therae  (Hirschfeld,  Xo.  67  A  ;  Overbeck,  Xo.  2019), 
we  know  Simos  as  the  sculptor  of  two  statues.  He 
was  a  native  of  the  town  of  Salamis.  The  name  of 
another  sculptor,  Onasiphon,  also  a  native  of  Salamis, 
occurs  in  an  inscription  from  Rhodes  (Hirschfeld, 
Xo.  68),  while  that  of  Epicharmos  of  Soli  is  found  on 
two  pedestals,  the  statues  of  which  have  disappeared, 
in  Rhodes  (Hirschfeld,  Xo.  71  A),  and  in  Lindus 
(Hirschfeld,  Xo.  71). 

On  a  marble  tablet  at  Xeo-Paphos  (Hirschfeld, 
Xo.  178)  is  an  inscription  describing  a  piece  of  sculp- 
ture by  one  Zenodotos,  who  claims  to  have  worked  in 
the  Phidian  manner,  or  perhaps  had  only  copied  the 
motive  from  works  bv  Phidias.""  But  it  seems  that 


*  Of  the  great  number  of  specimens  of  ancient  art  found  in  recent 
years,  some  have  been  published,  as  follows:  ist.  Photographs  from 
the  Cesnola  Collection,  with  introduction  by  Professor  Sidney  Colvin, 
London:  2nd.  Catalogue  of  Cesnola  Collection,  by  Johannes  Doell, 
St.  Petersburg:  3rd.  Objects  discovered  by  R.  II.  Lang,  British  Consul 


12  CYPRUS. 

embroidery  had  been  carried  to  something  like  the 
degree  of  a  fine  art  in  Cyprus,  since  we  find  that  at 
Delphi  there  was  a  specimen  of  this  class  of  work  to 
which  was  attached  an  epigram  showing  that  it  had 
been  executed  by  Helicon,  a  son  of  Acesas,  a  native  of 
Salamis,  whom  Pallas  had  inspired  in  this  art. 

It  seems  that  Acesas  also  was  distinguished  for  his 
skill  in  this  kind  of  work  (Overbeck,  Ant.  Schrift.,  Xo. 
385-387).  There  is  little  doubt  but  that  this  skill  of 
the  Cypriotes  had  been  arrived  at  under  the  influence 
of  the  Assyrians,  who  appear  to  have  maintained  their 
reputation  in  this  department  of  work  down  to  the  time 
of  Antiochus,  who  is  mentioned  by  Pausanias ""  as 
having  presented  the  temple  of  Olympia  with  a  curtain 
of  Assyrian  work.  As  regards  the  legendary  art  of  the 
island,  the  armour  of  Cinyras,  his  vessels  of  clay  with 
clay  crews,  and  the  image  made  by  Pygmalion,  there 
was  apparently  at  least  this  foundation  for  these  stories, 
that  Cyprus  had  been  from  very  early  times  actively 
engaged  in  metal  working,  in  producing  figures  in  clay 
or  terra-cotta,  and  in  sculpture. 

With  about  thirty  seaports,  having  convenient  har- 
bours, and  with  unlimited  supplies  of  wood  for  ship 
building,  Cyprus  was  in  a  position  to  appropriate  a  great 
part  of  the  commerce  between  the  East  and  the  \Yest, 
in  addition  to  the  exportation  of  its  own  over-abundant 
produce,  such  as  silicate  of  copper,  vitriol,  wood,  wine, 
grain,  oil,  wool,  flax,  canvas,  woven  stuffs,  salves,  fruits. 

at  Cyprus,  with  discussion  of  their  artistic  style,  by  R.  S.  Poole.  Transac- 
tions of  Royal  Society  of  Literature,  xi.,  pt.  i.  New  Series. 

*  Pausanias  (v.  12,  4)  calls  it  a  ^npmrtracr^n.  (jxiiiv  ot  Assyrian  work, 
and  dyed  with  the  purple  dye  of  the  Phoenicians.  This  curtain,  he 
adds,  was  let  down  from  the  roof  to  the  pavement  by  ropes,  not  as  in 
the  Temple  at  Ephesus,  raised  from  the  floor  upwards.  In  another 
place  (viii.  5.  2)  Pausanias  mentions  a  robe  (peplos)  presented  to  the 
statue  of  Athena  Alea.  at  Tei^ea,  by  Laodike.  a  descendant  of  Agapenor. 
the  original  founder  of  Paphos.  where  she  still  lived. 


INTRODUCTION.  13 

precious   stones,    &c.      Of  the   seaports   Citium   always 
held  pre-eminence. 

In  literature,  the  reputation  of  the  island  stood  higher 
than  in  art.  It  boasted  of  the  earliest  of  the  Greek 
prophetic  singers,  Euclos,  some  of  whose  verses  were 
known  as  late  as  the  time  of  Pausanias.  It  was  the 
native  place  of  the  author  of  one  of  the  celebrated  epic 
poems  of  antiquity,  the  Cyprian  Iliad,  as  it  was  called, 
or  simply  and  generally  the  Kypria.  That  Homer  was 
born  in  Cyprus,  that  he  was  the  author  of  the  "  Kypria," 
or  that  he  gave  his  daughter  in  marriage  to  the  Cyprian 
poet  Stasinos,  are  doubtless  idle  inventions.  The  two 
real  claimants  to  the  authorship  of  the  poem  in  question 
are  Stasinos  and  Hegesias,  but  the  claims  of  the  former 
seem  to  be  the  stronger  of  the  two>  and  probably  it  was 
from  his  being  the  acknowledged  author  that  he  was 
brought  into  relationship  with  Homer.  As  to  the  poetic 
merits  of  the  Kypria,  it  is  to  be  observed  that  Herodotus 
(ii.  117)  does  not  allege  inferiority  as  his  reason  for 
thinking  that  it  was  not  the  work  of  Homer,  but  relies 
on  a  discrepancy  of  incident.  Aristotle  censures  it  in 
comparison  with  Homer  for  its  too  great  variety  of 
incident.  There  must  have  been  an  important  school 
of  Homeric  poets  in  the  island  about  the  latter  half  of 
the  eighth  century  B.C.,  to  which  period  this  poem  is 
assigned.  The  Kypria  consisted  of  eleven  books,  of 
which  we  possess  now  only  what  is  called  the  argument 
as  preserved  by  Proclus  in  Photius,  but  from  this  it  is 
possible  to  gather  the  main  incidents  of  the  poem.  The 
subject  of  the  Iliad  is  the  war  of  Troy,  and  the  subject 
of  the  Kypria  is  the  events  which  caused  and  preceded 
the  war  of  Troy.  It  is  therefore  a  sort  of  introduction  to 
the  Iliad.  At  the  same  time  it  must  not  be  supposed  that 
these  earlier  legendary  incidents  had  been  invented  by  the 
poet.  What  he  did  was  to  collect  a  great  number  of  local 
legends  which  are  not  in  the  Iliad,  and  to  preserve  them. 


14  CYPRUS. 

To  this  we  now  owe  much  of  our  knowledge  of  the 
legends  of  the  Trojan  cycle,  and  it  is  certain  that  the 
great  variety  of  scenes  and  events  in  this  poem  formed  a 
mine  of  subjects  for  the  tragic  poets  and  artists  of  Greece. 

Besides  Stasinos,  the  probable  author  of  the  Kypria 
and  his  rival  claimant  Hegesias,  we  find  Cleon  of 
Curium  mentioned  as  the  author  of  a  poem  on  the 
Argonauts,  to  which  it  is  said  Apollonius  Rhodius  had 
been  largely  indebted  in  writing  his  poem  of  the  Argo- 
nauts, which  now  exists.  Judging  from  the  reputation 
of  the  island  for  its  poetry  in  the  time  of  Pindar,  one 
would  conclude  that  there  must  have  been  many  other 
poets  in  Cyprus  whose  names  and  works  have  been 
lost.  There  is  the  lyric  poet  Hermeias  of  Curium,  of 
\vhose  verse  Athenaeus  has  preserved  a  specimen. 
Several  fragments  of  the  comedies  of  Sopatios  are  also 
to  be  found  in  Athenasus.  Among  the  prose  writers,  of 
whom  there  is  a  considerable  number  known  by  name, 
Clearchos  of  Soli,  a  pupil  of  Aristotle,  is  the  principal 
figure.  His  work,  entitled  Gergithios,  was  an  exposure 
of  the  system  of  sycophants  at  the  Cypriote  courts. 
He  was  the  author  also  of  a  book  of  biographies. 
There  was,  however,  no  more  illustrious  native  of 
Cyprus  than  Zeno  the  philosopher  (born  B.C.  362),  the 
founder  of  the  Stoic  school  ;  Citium  was  his  birthplace, 
and  it  was  as  proud  of  him  as  he  was  attached  to  it. 

The  language  employed  in  literary  compositions,  and 
indeed  the  prevailing  language  of  the  island  in  historical 
times,  was  Greek.  The  Phoenician  inhabitants,  probablv 
those  of  Citium  and  Idalium  in  particular,  had  retained 
their  native  tongue,  and  though  neither  their  position 
in  relation  to  the  Greeks,  nor  the  capacity  of  their 
language,  was  calculated  to  exercise  much  influence  on 
the  current  Greek,  yet  it  is  noticeable  that  in  the  con- 
siderably large  series  of  words  handed  down  as  peculiar 
to  Cyprus  a  number  of  them  are  obviously  of  Semitic 


INTRODUCTION.  15 

origin  (Engel,  i.  pp.  557~593)-  The  mixture  of 
colonists  from  different  parts  of  Greece  bringing  dif- 
ferent dialects  may  have  produced  the  others.  That 
the  ordinary  Greek  alphabet  was  employed  for  literary 
purposes  is  to  be  inferred  from  the  familiarity  of  Greek 
authors  with  Cypriote  literature,  and  from  their  silence 
as  to  any  peculiarity  on  this  point.  It  was,  therefore,  a 
matter  of  surprise  and  deep  interest  to  scholars  when 
inscriptions  came  to  be  found  written  in  a  hitherto 
unknown  character.  The  first  who  rendered  important 
service  as  regards  these  inscriptions,  was  the  Due  de 
Luynes,  by  his  publication  of  "  Numismatique  et 
Inscriptions  Cypriotes,"  Paris,  1852,  containing  all  the 
inscriptions  then  known,  and  among  them  a  now  cele- 
brated bronze  tablet,  with  an  inscription  of  thirty-one 
lines,  found  at  Idalium.  In  1855,  Professor  Roth 
published  a  translation  of  this  tablet,  making  it  out  to 
be  a  proclamation  of  the  Egyptian  king  Amasis  to  the 
people  of  Cyprus,  and  assuming  the  language  to  be 
Semitic.  But  this  and  all  attempts  at  decipherment 
failed  until  a  bilingual  inscription,  in  Phcenician  and 
Cypriote,  discovered  by  my  English  colleague,  R.  H. 
Lang,  was  made  known.  Mr.  Lang  had  himself  made 
some  progress  with  the  correct  reading  of  this  docu- 
ment, when  the  late  Mr.  George  Smith,  of  the  British 
Museum,  quite  independently  discovered  the  same  clue, 
and  succeeded  in  determining  the  value  of  forty  of  the 
characters  or  signs  of  the  Cypriote  alphabet,  or  sylla- 
barium,  as  it  is  more  properly  called.  At  this  stage  Dr. 
Birch,  the  Keeper  of  Oriental  Antiquities  in  the  British 
Museum,  perceiving  the  language  written  in  this  strange 
character  to  be  essentially  Greek,  applied  the  newly 
found  key  to  the  bronze  tablet  of  the  Due  de  Luynes, 
and  published  his  reading  of  it  in  the  Transactions  of 
the  Society  of  Biblical  Archaeology  (vol.  i.,  pt.  2,  1873). 
The  whole  subject  was  next  taken  up  by  Dr.  Brandis  of 


i6 


CYPRUS. 


Berlin,  and  investigated  with  his  characteristic  patience 
and  thoroughness  up  to  the  time  of  his  too  early  death. 
His  result  was  published  in  the  Monatsbericht  of  the 
Berlin  Academy,  1873  ;  and  to  that  publication  we 
would  refer  those  who  desire  a  secure  foundation  for 
the  study  of  the  Cypriote  language.""  The  following 
table,  which  represents  the  alphabet  as  far  as  it  was 
made  out  by  him,  is  taken  from  the  article  just 
mentioned. 

I.  Gutturals. 


9.  h    ta 

10.  T  i(C) 

11.  T  to 


1.  2 

/:« 

£    Vr 

b.  JV.   y< 

2.  £ 

u 

7.  rr  ^ 

3.  A 

ko 

8.  f\  go 

4.  r 

1  -A- 

5.$ 

-<# 

II.    Dentals 

d 

\r  da 
12.  ^  m  (?) 

T  do 


th 

—  tha 

13.  ±  de<   the,  te 
*\  --  t/io 

14.  €       or    s 


15.  ili  «« 

20.  ^  ?«           25.  Jl  n/ 

— 

sn 

1C.  A,  /^  m 

21.  4:  li                     -  ri 

26. 

<D 

si 

22.  8  h 

17.  fr  no 

23.  .0.  /(o)               X  ro 

— 

SO 

18.  ^  an  (on) 

19.  ^A,  0!  en 

24.  +  -i                     5.  -r 

27. 

V 

s 

19tf.  X  -„? 

28. 

r 

-s 

29. 

^ 

KO 

*  I  would  add  also  the  valuable  contribution  to  this  subject  by  I'rof 
Isaac  II.  Hall,  of  Xe\v  York,  "The  Cypriote  Inscriptions  of  the  I.)i  Cesnola 
Co!le<  lion,"  from  the  Journal  of  the  American  Oriental  Society,  vol.  x., 
1875.  in  which  fac-similes  of  the  inscriptions  are  given. 


INTRODUCTION.  17 

III.     Labials 
p  b  m 

30.  T  pa  33.  *  la  33.  -£  ma 
4=  pa 

31.  V  ^  -  M  34.  /*!  mt 

32.  T  po  -00                                 -l£  wj« 

35.  A  »i? 

IV.    Vowels 


36.  #  a,    \  Mostly  at    39    *  ,.  42    x 

beginning  ot 
wora 

37.  *  a  Middle  40.  )'(  i  End  43.  >lt  £,  », 

38.  1C  a    w  41.  A  j 

o  u  ou  (?) 

44.  £  o,  47.  V  v  49.  #  Ou 

45.  //  o  48.  '/y  Mostly  at  end 

46.  ^  o  of  word  and 

Alternating  mthN1?  47. 

Mr.  R.  H.  Lang  believes  (Transactions  Roy.  Soc. 
Lit.,  xi.  pt.  i,  New  Series,  p.  23)  that  this  language  and 
writing  had  been  handed  down  from  the  original  in- 
habitants of  the  island,  previous  to  the  advent  of  the 
Phoenicians.  As  regards  the  race  to  which  these 
aborigines  belonged,  he  says,  "  in  Genesis  we  read 
(ch.  x.  ver.  4),  '  and  the  sons  of  Javan  ;  Elishah,  and 
Tarshish,  Kittim,  and  Dodanim  :  '  (ver.  5)  '  By  these 
were  the  isles  of  the  Gentiles  divided  in  their  lands.' 
In  other  words  we  are  told  that  the  inhabitants  of 
Elishah,  Tarshish,  Kittim,  Dodanim  or  Rodanim,  were 
of  the  Javanian  (or  as  we  have  it  later,  Ionian)  family. 
It  will  be  admitted  that  the  Kittim  alluded  to  by  the 
author  of  Genesis  was  Cyprus,  and  if  so,  then  we  have 
the  testimony  of  the  most  ancient  and  theological  record 
extant  that  the  original  inhabitants  of  the  island  were 


18  CYPRUS. 

descendants  of  Javan  and  part  of  the  great  Greek 
family,  with  which,  even  in  our  days,  the  Cypriotes  are 
closely  allied.  One  circumstance  which  has  been 
generally  overlooked  adds  considerable  weight  to  the 
testimony  of  the  writer  of  Genesis,  if  we  suppose  him  to 
have  been  Moses,  who  was  brought  up  at  the  court  of 
Pharaoh.  In  the  time  of  Moses  the  island  was  actually 
a  possession  of  Egypt,  having  been  conquered  by  the 
Egyptian  fleet  under  Thothmes  III.  This  testimony, 
then,  with  regard  to  the  inhabitants  of  Cyprus,  was 
probably  based  on  authentic  information  possessed  by 
the  court  of  Pharaoh.  Whence  this  population  came 
to  the  island  we  cannot  conjecture." 

"  When  treating  lately  of  the  Cypriote  alphabet  in  a 
paper  read  to  the  Biblical  Society  of  Archaeology,  I 
had  occasion  to  show  its  similarity  to  the  alphabet 
of  Lycia,  and  this  circumstance  leads  me  to  suggest 
that  an  off-shoot  of  the  great  Aryan  emigration 
which  peopled  Lycia,  may  have  crossed  the  Cilician 
sea,  only  about  fifty  miles  broad,  and  penetrated  into 
Cyprus." 

Besides  the  extreme  probability  of  settlers  from 
Cilicia  coming  to  Cyprus  as  pointed  out  by  Mr.  Lang, 
there  is  the  fact  stated  by  Tacitus  ^Hist.  2,  3)  that  at 
the  time  when  the  Cinyradae  came  from  Phoenicia 
another  priestly  family,  the  Tamiradae,  arrived  from 
Cilicia  and  exercised  their  prophetic  powers  in  the 
island.  This  was  pointed  out  by  Engel  in  1841,  but 
he,  being  convinced  that  the  early  Cilicians  were  of  the 
same  Semitic  stock  as  the  Phoenicians,  concluded 
i.  p.  178  that  this  settlement  of  Cilicians  had  not 
altered  the  ethnological  character  of  the  island.  The 
similarity  between  the  Cvpriote  and  Lycian  alphabets 
would  be  a  more  important  fact  than  it  is  were  the 
Lvcian  language  deciphered  satisfactorily ;  there  are 
certain  similarities  also  in  the  sculptures  of  Cyprus  and 


INTRODUCTION. 


ig 


Lycia  which  will  be  pointed  out,  but  at  present  they  seem 
rather  traceable  to  an  oriental  than  to  a  Greek  origin. 

While  the  two  languages  of  Cyprus — Greek  and 
Phosnician — remained  distinct,  it  would  seem  that  the 
religion  of  the  two  separate  races  had  become  success- 
fully amalgamated.  The  goddess  of  Paphos,  whose 
temple  there  had  been  founded,  according  to  tradition, 
in  imitation  of  a  temple  of  the  Tyrian  goddess  Astarte 
at  Ascalon,  and  had  a  perpetual  priesthood,  tracing 
their  lineage  to  the  Tyrian  founder  Cinyras,  was 
accepted  by  the  Greeks  throughout  the  island  as 
Aphrodite.  She  was  in  the  first  place  the  Goddess  01 
Love,  and  considering  that  however  much  language  or 
nationality  may  vary,  this  passion  at  least  is  very 
constant  in  mankind,  it  cannot  be  surprising  that  the 
two  races  of  Cyprus  worshipped  one  goddess  in 
common.  Her  symbol  was  a  cone,  such  as  stood  in 
the  adytum  of  the  temple  at  Paphos,  and  whatever  its 
signification  may  ultimately  have  been,  the  likelihood 
is  that  it  originated  in  reference  to  the  functions  of  the 
Pelasgic  Aphrodite  as  a  goddess  of  fertility.  The  two 
originally  distinct  elements  in  the  religion  of  the 
Paphian  goddess  are  indicated  by  her  two  titles  of 
Pandemos  and  Urania,  with  her  separate  genealogy 
for  each.  As  Pandemos  she  was  a  daughter  of  Zeus 
and  Dione,  and  represented  originally  a  pure  Greek 
conception  of  a  goddess  of  Nature,  and  it  is  in  this 
genealogy  that  she  is  known  to  Homer.  As  Urania 
she  was  the  offspring  of  Uranos,  born  in  the  foam  of 
the  Sea  (Aphrodite),  and  coming  finally  to  land  in 
Cyprus.  As  a  goddess  of  the  Heavens  (Uranos)  she 
reminds  us  that  the  principal  deities  of  the  Asiatic 
race  to  which  the  Phoenicians  belonged,  were  the  Sun 
and  Moon — Baal  and  Mylitta  in  Babylon.  And 
again,  as  a  goddess  born  of  the  sea  she  reminds  us  that 
the  goddess  Derceto  was  represented  at  Ascalon  in  the 


20  CYPRUS. 

form  of  a  fish.  It  was  apparently  under  the  influence 
of  the  Asiatic  side  of  her  religion  that  the  prostitution 
of  women  in  her  service  became  as  great  at  Cyprus  as 
it  was  at  Babylon  in  the  service  of  Mylitta. 

The  love  of  Aphrodite  for  beautiful  youths  is  known 
from    the    stories    of   Adonis,    Phaethon,   and    Cinyras, 
while  on  the  other  hand  the  love  of  mortals  for  her  or 
her   image  is   shown   in   the   story   of  Pygmalion,    who 
made  for  himself  an  ivory  figure  of  the  goddess,  and 
poured  out  his  yearnings  towards  it.      On    one  of  her 
festival  days  he  approached  her  altar  and  implored  that 
the   figure   might  be  endowed  with  life.      The  goddess 
heard   his  prayer,  the  image  warmed   into  life,  and  bore 
to   Pygmalion    the    beautiful    boy    "•  Paphos."      Stones 
less    elevated   in    character  than   this   are   told   of  love 
for  the  statue  of  Aphrodite  at  Cnidos.     But  her  chief 
favourite  in  Cyprus  was  Cinyras,  whose  praise  was  sung 
and  related  far  and  wide.      In  beauty  of  an  effeminate 
sort  he  was  compared  with  Sardanapalus.      His  wealth, 
like  that  of  Midas,  was  proverbial,  but  with  the  differ- 
ence that  he  knew  how  to   use  it.      It  was   he  who  had 
introduced  the  worship   of  Aphrodite  into   Paphos,  and 
settled    a     hereditary    right    to    her    priesthood    in    his 
family.      Early  institutions  and  inventions,   from  which 
the   island  had   benefited,  were  traced  to   him,   and  we 
have   already   seen   that   in   the    Iliad   he   appears   as   a 
Greek    prince,    and    a    wealthy   contemporary   of   Aga- 
memnon.     The  genealogy  of  Cinyras  is  in  inextricable 
confusion.       In   one   place    he   is   a   son   of  Apollo    and 
Pharmake  ;     in    another    a    son    of    Paphos,    the    off- 
spring of  Pygmalion   and   the  ivorv  image  ;    in   a  third 
his  father  was  Theias,  who  at  one  time  appears  as  an 
early   king  of  the    island,   and    at   another   as    King    of 
Assyria,   having   as  children,    besides    Cinyras,    Myrrha 
and    Adonis,   who    usually   are    called    the    children    of 
Cinyras.      In    the   other   legends   his    descent    is  traced 


INTRODUCTION.  21 

to  Cecrops.  Again,  his  wife  is  given  sometimes  as 
Metharme,  a  daughter  of  Pygmalion,  and  at  other 
times  Cenchreis. 

With  reference  to  the  colonisation  of  the  island,  it 
will  be  seen  that  the  Phoenicians  had  settled  on  the 
south  coast  at  the  nearest  and  most  convenient  points 
for  trade  with  the  mother  country,  and  had  founded 
the  three  towns  of  Paphos,  Amathus,  and  Citium,  of 
which  Paphos,  with  its  greater  celebrity  in  historical 
times,  claimed  to  be  the  oldest ;  but  probably  this 
claim  would  be  better  allowed  to  Amathus,  which 
traced  its  foundation  to  Amath,  a  grandson  of  Canaan, 
and  retained  such  Phoenician  peculiarities  as  the 
worship  of  Melkart,  the  Tyrian  Hercules,  and  human 
sacrifice  to  Kronos,  of  which  there  is  no  evidence  in 
Paphos.  It  was  from  Amathus,  and  not  Paphos,  that 
Agamemnon  drove  the  Cinyradas,  and  their  seat  must 
have  been  the  chief  and  probably  the  first  settlement 
in  the  island.  Citium  was  always  merely  a  commercial 
city,  as  it  is  to  this  day,  under  the  name  of  Larnaca. 
Whether  Lapethus  and  Carpassia  in  the  north  \vere 
Phoenician  towns  is  doubtful,  though,  from  the  remains 
discovered  at  those  places,  the  former  would  appear 
Greek,  while  the  latter  is  unmistakably  Phoenician,  in 
my  opinion. 

The  Greek  colonization,  according  to  legend,  began 
with  the  return  of  the  heroes  from  Trov.  i.  Salamis 

j 

was  founded  by  Teucer,  and  named  after  his  native 
island,  where,  on  his  return,  his  father  Telamon  would 
not  receive  him,  and  whence  he  fled  with  his  com- 
panions to  Cyprus,  taking  with  him  also  his  Trojan 
captives.  According  to  Virgil,  he  landed  first  at 
Sidon,  and  obtained  permission  and  assistance  to  settle 
in  Cyprus  from  Belus,  a  King  of  Sidon.  Possibly  the 
Salaminians  had  gone  to  Cyprus  along  with  the  Athe- 
nian colony  under  Acamas,  though  it  is  given  as  a 


22  CYPRUS. 

separate  event.  2.  The  towns  of  Soli  and  Cythrea 
traced  their  foundation  to  the  Athenians.  The  towns 
of  Lapethus  and  Cerynia  (3  and  4)  were  said  to  have 
been  founded  by  a  Lacedemonian  colony  under  Prax- 
ander,  and  an  Achaean  colony  under  Kepheus.  5.  Curium 
was  founded  by  Arrives,  but  under  whose  leadership  is 
not  said.  6.  A  colony  of  Dryopians  is  mentioned  as 
having  planted  a  town  named  Asine,  the  site  of  which, 
however,  is  not  known.  7.  Agapenor,  returning  from 
Troy  with  his  Arcadian  followers,  was  wrecked  on 
Cyprus,  and  founded  Xeo-Paphos.  8.  Golgos  or  Golgoi 
was  founded  by  a  colony  of  Sicyonians,  under  a  leader, 
Golgos,  whom  the  myth  calls  a  son  of  Aphrodite  and 
Adonis. 

It  will  be  seen  that,  with  the  exception  of  the  Argive 
colony  of  Curium,  which  lies  between  Paphos  and 
Amathus,  the  Greek  settlers  chose  the  north  and  west 
coasts  of  the  island ;  and  of  the  west  kingdoms  of 
Cyprus,  only  two  \vere  distinctly  Phoenician.  At  what 
time  and  under  what  circumstances  these  two  towns 
had  adopted  the  monarchical  form  of  government  of 
their  Greek  neighbours,  is  not  known  ;  but  it  could 
hardly  have  been  until  after  their  release  from  their 
vassalage  to  Tyre.  The  ten  kingdoms  were  Salamis, 
Soli,  Chytri,  Curium,  Lapethus,  Cerynia,  Xeo-Paphos, 
Marium,  with  Citium  and  Amathus  as  Phoenician. 

In  the  Iliad  we  have  mention  of  Cinyras  as  appa- 
rently then  the  only  king  of  the  island  ;  but  altogether 
Cyprus  does  not  seem  to  have  been  well  known  to  the 
author  of  the  Iliad,  and  was  probably  not  a  place  of 
remarkable  importance  in  his  day.  In  the  Odyssey, 
however,  more  is  known  of  it.  There  is  the  visit  of 
Menelaos  (iv.  83-4),  its  supply  of  copper,  for  which 
Athene  goes  to  Tamassus  (i.  181),  while  Odysseus  him- 
self (xvii.  442)  gives  his  experience  of  the  friendliness  of 
Dmetor,  a  King  of  Cyprus. 


INTRODUCTION.  23 

On  an  Egyptian  tomb  it  is  stated  that  Thothmes  III. 
conquered  Cyprus  ;  it  appears  elsewhere  that  Belus, 
King  of  Tyre,  took  the  island  at  a  later  period  and 
destroyed  most  of  its  cities  ;  in  B.C.  707,  Sargon,  the 
Assyrian  monarch,  conquered  Cyprus,  and  made  its 
kings  his  tributaries  ;  B.C.  594,  Apries,  King  of  Egypt, 
(the  Pharaoh  Hophra  of  Scripture),  defeated  several 
Cypriote  monarchs  near  Citium,  and  returned  home 
laden  with  spoils.  Amasis,  who  put  Apries  to  death, 
overran  the  entire  island,  and  imposed,  as  Herodotus 
says,  a  tribute  on  it.  The  same  historian  tells  us  that 
during  the  reign  of  Psammeticus  the  Cypriote  rulers, 
tired  of  Egyptian  control,  surrendered  themselves  to 
Cambyses  the  Persian,  and  joined  him  in  the  war 
against  the  son  of  Amasis.  When  Darius  became 
King  of  Persia,  and  founded  the  satrapies,  Cyprus,  with 
Phoenicia  and  Palestine,  formed  the  fifth  province. 
Some  time  after  this,  the  people  of  the  island,  except  the 
King  of  Amathus,  revolted  against  the  Persians,  and 
joined  the  lonians.  Onesilus,  brother  of  Gorgus,  King 
of  the  Salaminians,  and  leader  of  this  revolt,  besieged 
Amathus,  but  was  forced  to  desist  by  the  advance  of 
the  Persian  general  Artabazus,  and,  united  with  the 
lonians,  their  ships  encountered  the  Persian  fleet, 
mostly  Phoenician  vessels,  off  the  Kleides  (Cape  St. 
Andreas),  and  after  more  than  one  combat,  defeated  it. 
Onesilus,  at  the  beginning  of  the  struggle,  was  equally 
victorious  on  land;  but  was  ultimately  defeated  through 
the  treachery  of  the  Salaminians  and  of  Stephanor  (or 
Stasanor,  as  he  is  called  by  others),  King  of  Curium, 
who  deserted  to  the  Persians.  Onesilus  and  Aristo- 
cyprus.  King  of  Soli,  were  slain,  the  head  of  the  former 
was  cut  off  by  the  Amathusians  in  revenge  and  placed 
over  one  of  the  gates  of  their  city.  Some  time  after- 
wards a  swarm  of  bees  took  possession  of  the  empty 
skull ;  the  people  of  Amathus,  alarmed,  consulted  the 


24  CYPRUS. 

oracle  at  Paphos,  which  instructed  them  to  appease  the 
manes  of  Onesilus  by  interring  his  skull  and  making 
annual  sacrifices  in  his  honour  ;  these  ceremonies  were 
still  observed  in  the  time  of  Herodotus  (v.  104-5). 
The  lonians  hearing  of  the  defeat  of  Onesilus  and 
the  submission  of  the  Salaminians  to  Gorgus,  returned 
to  defend  their  own  country. 

B.C.  477,  the  Athenians  and  Lacedemonians  con- 
quered part  of  Cyprus  from  the  Persians  ;  thirty  years 
later  Cimon,  with  200  ships,  made  an  effort  to  capture 
the  remainder  of  the  island,  but  as  he  died  of  disease 
while  besieging  Citium  the  fleet  returned  to  Athens, 
and  all  the  Athenian  conquests  were  abandoned. 
Evagoras  landed  with  a  small  force  and  endeavoured  to 
conquer  the  island  ;  but  the  kings  of  Arnathus,  Soli, 
and  Citium  summoned  the  Persians  to  resist  him.  He 
then  allied  himself  with  King  Acoris  of  Egypt,  and  the 
Athenians,  and  was  aided  by  an  Athenian  fleet  under 
Chabrias,  but  some  time  after  this  Artaxerxes  made 
peace  with  the  lonians  and  the  Greeks  of  the  isles, 
and  Cyprus  seemed  to  have  reverted  to  the  Persians. 
Evagoras,  however,  determined  not  to  be  left  in  the 
lurch  by  the  desertion  of  his  allies,  reinforced  himself 
among  the  Cypriotes,  and  procured  mercenaries  to  the 
number  of  70,000.  He  was  assisted  by  the  Tynans 
with  twenty  vessels,  and  by  the  Egyptians  with  fifty 
more,  so  that  he  had  with  his  own  fleet  a  navy  of  200 
ships.  Artaxerxes  sent  300,000  men  and  300  ships, 
under  the  command  of  Orontes,  his  son-in-law,  and 
Tinbazus,  the  latter  having  the  supreme  command. 
Evagoras  contrived  to  attack  near  Citium  a  part  of  the 
enemy's  fleet  which  was  laden  with  stores  ;  he  captured 
many  ships  and  destroyed  many  others ;  but  while 
returning  in  triumph  to  Salamis  he  was  met  unprepared, 
behind  Cape  Peclalium,  by  the  Persian  admiral  Gaos, 
with  the  remainder  of  the  ships;  Evagoras  and  his  fleet 


INTRODUCTION.  25 

were  utterly  defeated  and  dispersed.  The  Persian 
troops  under  Tiribazus  attacked  Citium,  from  which 
place  Evagoras,  leaving  his  son  in  command,  departed 
secretly  for  Egypt  in  search  of  aid.  His  journey 
proving  fruitless,  he  returned  and  sued  for  peace  from 
Tiribazus;  this  was  offered  on  three  conditions:  ist, 
that  Evagoras  should  abandon  all  Cyprus,  except  his 
own  dominion  of  Salamis  ;  2nd,  that  he  should  pay  an 
annual  tribute  ;  and  3rd,  that  he  should  acknowledge 
the  Persian  monarch  as  his  suzerain.  Evagoras  ac- 
cepted the  former  two  of  these  conditions,  but  proudly 
rejected  the  third,  so  that  hostilities  were  begun  again  ; 
but  soon  afterwards  Tiribazus  was  replaced  by  Orontes, 
who  agreed  to  the  terms  of  Evagoras.  And  thus  ended 
a  contest  often  years'  duration,  which  cost  the  Persians 
50,000  talents,  and  left  Evagoras  in  possession  of  his 
kingdom  as  before  the  war  Evagoras  was  murdered  by 
an  eunuch  named  Thrasidaeus,  and  succeeded  by  his  son 
Xicocles,  who  gave  twenty  talents  to  Isocrates  in  return 
for  an  eulogy  which  he  had  written  in  his  father's 
honour.  In  an  eulogy  of  Nicocles,  the  same  orator 
treated  at  length  of  the  reciprocal  duties  of  subjects 
and  kings.  In  his  general  oration  on  Evagoras,  Iso- 
crates leads  us  to  understand  that  bull-fights,  games, 
races,  and  other  ceremonies  occurred  during  the 
obsequies.  In  350  B.C.,  nine  Cypriote  kings  revolted 
against  the  Persian  Artaxerxes  Ochus,  who  ordered 
Idricus  of  Caria  to  send  forty  ships  and  8,000  men 
under  the  command  of  Phocion  and  Evagoras,  son  of 
Nicocles,  who  had  been  disinherited  by  Protagoras. 
Phocion  besieged  Salamis  by  land  and  sea,  his  soldiers 
being  attracted  by  the  immense  wealth  of  the  city, 
which  was  then  in  the  height  of  its  prosperity,  but 
the  city  resisted  to  the  last,  and  until  Protagoras 
succeeded  in  convincing  Artaxerxes  that  Evagoras  was 
betraying  him  ;  so  that  the  latter  was  removed,  and 


26  CYPRUS. 

the  submission  of  the  former  on  favourable  terms  was 
accepted. 

When  Alexander,  B.C.  335,  besieged  Tyre,  the  Kings 
of  Cyprus  voluntarily  aided  him  with  120  ships.  In 
return  for  assistance  on  this  occasion  Alexander  con- 
ferred the  sovereignty  of  Citium  on  Pnytagoras.  After 
the  death  of  Alexander  the  Kings  of  Cyprus  formed  two 
parties  :  the  Kings  of  Citium,  Marium,  Lapethus,  and 
Cerynea,  joined  Antigonus;  while  Xicocreon,  of  Salamis, 
and  all  the  others  favoured  Ptolemy  Lagos.  Ptolemy 
sent  his  brother  Menelaus,  with  12,000  men  and  100 
ships,  to  aid  his  friends  in  the  island  ;  Seleucus,  who 
commanded  the  fleet,  captured  Cerynea  and  Lapethus, 
forced  the  Kings  of  Amathus  and  Marium  to  give 
hostages  to  him  ;  he  then  went  to  besiege  Pygmalion, 
King  of  Citium,  in  his  capital.  In  the  year  312  B.C., 
Ptolemy  came  with  a  large  army  to  reduce  to  obedience 
the  remaining  rulers  of  Cyprus,  and  put  Pygmalion  to 
death  because  he  had  treacherously  corresponded  with 
Antigonus,  probably  after  he  had  given  hostages  to 
Ptolemy,  and,  learning  that  Stasioscus  and  Praxippus 
were  preparing  to  revolt  again,  sent  them  both  prisoners 
to  Egypt.  He  destroyed  the  city  of  Marium,  and  trans- 
ferred its  people  to  Paphos.  Before  leaving  the  island 
to  fight  Antigonus,  Ptolemy  made  his  friend,  the  King 
of  Salamis  (Xicocreon),  ruler  over  all  the  cities  of  the 
dispossessed  kings.  \Yhile  in  Cilicia  the  Egyptian 
monarch  learnt  that  Xicocles,  King  of  Paphos,  was 
treating  secretly  with  Antigonus,  and  accordingly  he 
despatched  Argaeus  and  Callicrates  to  Cyprus  with 
orders  to  slay  Xicocles  ;  on  their  arrival  Menelaus  gave 
them  troops,  who  surrounded  the  condemned  monarch's 
palace,  entered  it,  and  delivered  the  orders  of  Ptolemy 
to  him.  Xicocles  endeavoured  in  vain  to  exculpate 
himself,  but  seeing  that  even  his  friends  had  deserted 
him  he  fell  on  his  sword,  and  his  wife,  Axiothea,  slew 


INTRODUCTION, 


27 


herself  on  his  corpse,  after  having  killed  her  young 
daughters  with  her  own  hands.  The  slain  king's 
brothers  set  fire  to  the  palace,  and  with  it  consumed 
the  royal  household.  Thus  the  entire  family  of  the 
kings  of  Paphos  was  destroyed. 

Demetrius  Poliorcetes,  son  of  Antigonus,  was,  B.C.  306, 
sent  by  his  father  to  expel  Menelaus  from  Cyprus,  and 
landed  there  with  15,000  foot  and  400  horse,  near  Car- 
passia  ;  with  the  aid  of  100  galleys  and  other  ships  he 
attacked  Salamis,  having  surprised  Carpassia  and  taken 
Urania  by  assault. 

Menelaus  opposed  the  invader  with  12,000  infantry 
and  800  horsemen,  and  after  a  short  but  sanguinary 
battle  was  compelled  to  retreat  in  disorder  to  Salamis, 
his  capital.  Demetrius  took  4000  prisoners,  and  slew 
more  than  2000  of  the  native  army  in  this  combat, 
and  afterwards  strenuously  besieged  Menelaus  in  the 
city,  using  his  land  and  naval  forces  for  this  purpose, 
blockading  the  harbour  ;  the  place  was,  however,  well 
provisioned  and  strongly  fortified,  and  resisted  success- 
fully. Ptolemy,  hearing  of  the  distress  of  his  lieutenant, 
hastened  to  Cyprus  with  150  galleys  and  200  smaller 
vessels,  landing  first  at  Paphos  and  next  at  Citium. 
Demetrius,  one  of  the  ablest  generals  of  antiquity,  had 
meanwhile  occupied  all  the  important  strategic  points 
on  the  south-east  coast  of  the  island,  from  Cape  St. 
Andreas  to  Citium,  and  on  learning  the  arrival  of  the 
enemy,  left  ten  galleys  to  continue  the  blockade  of 
Salamis,  and  with  the  rest  of  his  fleet  met  that  of  the 
Egyptian  king  between  Capes  Pyla  and  Pedalium 
(Cape  Greco),  and  so  thoroughly  defeated  the  latter 
that  Ptolemy  returned  home  at  once.  Menelaus,  thus 
left  to  his  fate,  surrendered  at  the  discretion  of  the 
victor.  Among  the  captives  taken  at  Salamis  was 
Leontiscus,  son  of  Ptolemy,  whom  Demetrius  set  free. 
Antigonus,  hearing  of  his  son's  great  victory,  assumed 


28  CYPRUS. 

the  title  of  king,  and  bestowed  the  same  distinction  on 
Demetrius. 

Ten  years  after  these  events  Ptolemy  Soter  retook 
the  island  from  Demetrius  Poliorcetes  ;  Salamis,  where 
the  family  of  the  latter  resided  during  his  absence  from 
Cyprus,  being  the  only  city  which  made  any  show  of 
resistance  to  this  new  change.  Ptolemy,  however, 
without  much  effort,  took  the  city,  set  the  royal  family 
free,  and  loaded  Demetrius  with  gifts,  thus  returning 
the  generosity  by  which  he  had  benefited  on  the 
former  occasion.  After  this  capture,  with  hardly  an 
intermission,  Cyprus  remained  under  the  sceptre  of 
the  Ptolemies.  Engel  (i.,  p.  423)  states  that  the  island 
became  independent  of  Egypt  in  the  reign  of  Ptolemy 
Lathyros  (B.C.  103),  and  that  at  this  period  the  Cypriotes 
and  the  Maccabees  of  Judaea  were  at  war. 

Cyprus  was  from  this  time  until  long  after  a  depen- 
dency of  Egypt,  ruled  by  one  of  the  Ptolemaic  family, 
with  the  title  of  king,  or  by  a  viceroy  chosen  from 
among  the  most  eminent  Egyptians.  The  last  of  these 
potentates  was  Cleopatra's  uncle,  who  devoted  himself 
so  earnestly  to  the  acquisition  of  riches,  that  when 
Publius  Claudius  Pulcher,  a  Roman  of  high  family, 
was  taken  prisoner  by  the  Cilician  pirates  in  the  waters 
of  Cyprus,  and  sent  to  the  king  of  the  island  for  his 
ransom,  Ptolemy  furnished  but  two  talents  for  the 
purpose,  which  the  pirates  refused  to  accept,  preferring 
to  set  their  captive  free  without  a  ransom,  and  on  his 
parole.  The  Roman  determined  to  revenge  himself, 
and  being  chosen  Tribune  obtained  a  decree  from  the 
Roman  Senate  to  dispossess  the  king  and  constitute 
the  island  a  province  of  Rome.  Marcus  Cato  was 
commanded  to  put  this  decree  in  force,  and  despite  his 
conscientious  objections  to  this  act  of  spoliation,  was 
compelled  to  obey.  On  this  he  sent  Canidius,  his 
secretary,  to  Ptolemy  in  Cyprus  to  communicate  his 


INTRODUCTION.  29 

orders,  and  to  offer  him  the  high  priesthood  of  trie 
Paphian  Venus,  with  all  its  honours  and  riches,  instead 
of  the  kingdom.  On  the  arrival  of  the  deputy,  Ptolemy, 
not  daring  to  resist,  loaded  several  vessels  with  his 
much-loved  treasures,  and  sailed  from  Salamis,  intend- 
ing perhaps  to  go  elsewhere,  or  to  sink  them  with  him- 
self into  the  sea,  so  as  to  deprive  the  greedy  Romans  of 
their  prey;  but  his  courage  failing  at  the  last  moment, 
he  returned,  shut  himself  up  in  the  palace,  and  with 
all  his  gold  about  him,  took  poison.  Thus  ended  the 
Ptolemaic  dynasty  in  Cyprus. 

Cato  took  possession  of  the  island,  and  was  well 
received  by  the  inhabitants,  who  probably  feared  the 
Romans  as  much  as  their  late  monarch  had  done.  He 
found  immense  treasures  in  the  palace  at  Salamis, 
sold  the  whole  for  the  enormous  sum  of  7,000  talents, 
and  sent  the  money  to  Rome,  reserving  for  himself,  it 
is  said,  only  a  statuette  of  Zeno,  the  philosopher  of 
Citium. 

In  the  year  52  B.C.,  Cicero  superseded  Appius  as 
pro-consul  of  Cyprus  and  Cilicia,  with  his  official  resi- 
dence at  the  latter  place  ;  by  a  letter  from  him  to 
Sextius  Rums,  the  first  Quaestor  of  the  island,  it 
appears  that  he  recommended  in  the  strongest  manner 
the  Cypriotes  to  the  care  of  this  officer,  particularly 
referring  to  the  people  of  Paphos. 

Strabo  tells  us  that  Antony  gave  the  island  to 
Cleopatra,  but  at  the  death  of  the  Triumvir,  Augustus 
revoked  the  gift,  and  annexed  Cyprus  to  the  empire  ; 
he  afterwards  presented  it  to  the  Roman  people,  who 
despatched  a  pro-consul  to  govern  it.  It  was  in  the 
reign  of  Tiberius  that  St.  Paul  visited  the  island,  then 
under  the  pro-consul  Sergius  Paulus,  and  performed 
in  that  officer's  presence  the  miracle  on  Bar-jesus,  the 
sorcerer  (Acts  xiii.  14).  When  St.  Paul  visited  Paphos, 
he  was  so  badlv  treated  that  he  declared  the  citizens 


30  CYPRUS. 

to  be  the  worst  men  of  the  world.  This  description 
is  said,  and  with  some  truth,  to  be  a  just  one  to  this 
day. 

The  Jews,  although  crushed  by  Vespasian  and  Titus 
in  Judea,  continued  their  resistance  to  the  Romans  in 
other  provinces.  Those  of  Cyprus  formed  a  numerous 
army,  which  was  led  by  Arteminius,  and  during  the 
reign  of  Trajan,  A.D.  115,  committed  such  direful 
excesses  that  very  nearly  a  quarter  of  a  million 
Cypriotes  were,  it  is  said,  slain.  Two  years  later  these 
malcontents  were  utterly  defeated  by  the  Romans,  and 
by  a  decree  of  the  Senate  were  expelled  from  the  island. 
So  rigidly  was  this  law  enforced,  that  during  several 
succeeding  centuries  any  Jew  who  was  wrecked  on  the 
coast  of  Cyprus  was  instantly  put  to  death.  After  this 
expulsion  of  the  Jews,  Christianity  increased  rapidly  in 
the  island,  and,  under  Constantine,  this  province  was 
one  of  the  richest  in  his  empire. 

The  attempt  of  the  camel  driver  Calocerus  to  make 
himself  King  of  Cyprus,  and  thus  revive  the  ancient 
independent  position  of  the  island,  A.D.  334,  was  frus- 
trated by  Dalmatius,  who  captured  the  ambitious 
aspirant  and  sent  him  a  prisoner  to  Constantine,  who 
ordered  the  rebel  to  be  flayed  alive,  and  burnt,  a  sentence 
which  was  executed  at  Tarsus.  Numerous  attempts  of 
the  Arabs  to  acquire  Cyprus  were  but  temporarily 
successful.  The  Byzantine  Emperors  never  failed  to 
recover  possession  of  the  island  from  the  invaders 
Phocas,  who  reigned  from  602  A.D.  till  610,  made 
Cyprus  a  province  of  his  empire,  and  placed  it  under 
the  command  of  a  duke,  or  military  leader.  During 
the  kalifate  of  Othman,  his  lieutenant  Moavyah  invaded 
the  island,  and,  A.D.  648  g,  returned  with  seventy  ships 
laden  with  booty.  The  Arabs  retained  the  island  for  a 
short  time  only.  The  Emperor  Justinian  the  Second 
made,  we  are  told,  a  serious  attempt  to  transfer  the 


INTRODUCTION.  31 

population  en  masse,  so  as  to  leave  Cyprus  a  desert  ; 
this  was  in  the  year  A.D.  691.  In  A.D.  726,  Leo  the 
Third  recovered  the  island  for  the  empire  ;  it  was  again 
in  the  hands  of  the  Arabs  during  the  reign  of  the  Kalif 
Haroun-el-Reshid,  A.D.  803,  who  were  again  expelled  in 
964  by  the  Christians.  The  Duke  of  Cyprus,  being  to 
some  extent  independent  of  Byzantium,  took  advantage 
of  the  oft-recurring  weakness  or  necessities  of  the 
empire  to  endeavour  to  throw  off  the  yoke,  but  these 
revolts  were  never  fortunate. 

Cyprus  was  a  frequent  halting-place  of  the  Crusaders 
on  their  way  from  the  West  to  the  East,  and  more  than 
one  leader  of  these  expeditions  found  a  grave  in  this 
island.  Among  them  was  Guelph,  the  fourth  Duke  of 
Bavaria,  who  in  1101  died  in  Cyprus;  four  years  later 
the  same  fate  befell  Eric,  the  first  King  of  Denmark, 
and  in  1148,  Amedeus,  Count  of  Maurianne  and  Savoy, 
joined  this  company  of  the  dead.  In  ngo,  Isaac 
Comnenos,  fated  to  be  the  last  Duke  of  Cyprus,  was  so 
notoriously  cruel,  that  the  Byzantine  Emperor,  Isaac 
Angelus,  on  more  than  one  occasion  strongly  remon- 
strated with  his  harsh  vassal,  .  but  with  little  or  no 
success. 

A  new  figure  now  appeared  in  Cyprus  in  the  person 
of  Richard  the  First,  King  of  England,  who,  while  on 
his  way  to  the  Holy  Land  in  1191,  ascertained  that 
some  of  his  soldiers,  shipwrecked  on  the  island,  had 
been  robbed  by  the  subjects  of  Comnenos,  and  that  his 
sister,  and  Berengaria  his  betrothed  bride,  had  been 
insulted  by  the  Duke.  Richard  landed  with  troops 
near  Amathus,  took  that  city  without  much  difficulty, 
and  entirely  destroyed  it.  A  few  days  later,  the  English 
and  the  Cypriotes  met  in  battle  in  the  plain  of 
Mesaoria,  near  the  ancient  Tremithus  ;  the  latter  were 
soon  defeated,  and  the  Duke  was  taken  prisoner. 
Richard  loaded  his  prisoner  with  silver  chains,  deprived 


32  CYPRUS. 

him  of  his  dignity,  and  carrying  him  away  in  captivity, 
sold  the  island  to  the  Knights  Templars.  These  soldiers 
of  the  Cross  used  their  appanage  with  so  little  wisdom 
and  restraint,  that,  induced  by  the  complaints  of  the 
natives,  King  Richard  resumed  his  rights  to  the  island, 
and  sold  it  again  to  Guy  of  Lusignan,  a  French 
Crusader,  who  thereupon,  in  1192,  founded  the  new 
kingdom  of  Cyprus,  having  not  long  before  this  event 
lost  his  kingdom  of  Jerusalem  at  the  hands  of  Salaclin, 
who  had  in  1187  defeated  him  in  the  battle  of 
Tiberias. 

The  Lusignan  dynasty  held  peaceful  possession  of 
the  island  until-  1372,  when  King  Peter  the  Second 
entertained  several  Genoese  and  Venetians  of  eminence 
at  Nicosia  on  his  coronation  day.  These  guests 
quarrelled  about  precedence,  and  appealed  to  the  king 
to  decide  the  point  at  issue.  The  Genoese  were,  it  is 
said,  so  highly  offended  by  a  verdict  which  was  adverse 
to  their  pretensions,  that  they  proposed  to  slay  King 
Peter  during  the  feast  to  which  he  had  invited  them 
and  their  rivals.  Informed  of  the  murderous  intention 
of  his  guests,  the  king  caused  the  malcontents  to  be 
thrown  from  the  windows  of  his  palace,  or  otherwise 
slain,  and  ordered  that  every  subject  of  Genoa  should 
be  put  to  death.  This  monstrous  command  was,  un- 
fortunately for  Peter,  only  too  faithfully  obeyed.  The 
Republic  of  Genoa,  highly  exasperated  by  this  treatment 
of  her  citizens,  immediately  proceeded  to  punish  Lu- 
signan by  despatching  a  considerable  fleet  to  Cyprus, 
under  the  command  of  the  admiral  Pietro  Pregoso. 
This  officer,  after  several  engagements,  captured  the 
city  of  Pamagosta,  and  carried  away  Jacopo  Lusignan, 
the  king's  uncle,  and  Lieutenant  Governor  of  the 
island.  In  13/4  Peter  married  Valentine,  daughter  of 
Bernabo  Visconti,  Duke  of  Milan,  and  died  in  the  vear 
1382. 


INTRODUCTION.  33 

When  this  event  happened,  the  nobles  of  Cyprus 
sent  an  embassy  to  Genoa  and  obtained  the  release  of 
Lusignan  and  made  him  king.  The  Genoese  continued 
to  hold  and  garrison  Famagosta,  which  they  strongly 
fortified  in  order  to  ensure  their  hold  on  the  island. 
The  son  of  Jacopo  bore  the  same  name,  and  succeeded 
his  father  in  1398.  Having  been  captured  by  Barsbay, 
Sultan  of  Egypt,  in  1426,  the  second  Jacopo  obtained 
his  freedom  on  condition  of  paying  tribute  to  Egypt, 
thus  reviving  a  practice  which  obtained  more  than  two 
thousand  years  before,  and  he  died  in  1452,  leaving 
two  children,  John  or  Jano,  and  Agnes.  The  latter 
married  a  prince  of  the  house  of  Savoy.  The  former 
succeeded  his  father  on  the  throne  of  Cyprus,  and 
inherited  effeminacy,  indolence,  and  selfishness,  the 
vices  of  his  predecessors. 

He  had,  however,  been  fortunate  in  obtaining  the 
hand  of  Helena  Paleologos,  niece  of  the  Emperor  of 
Constantinople,  who  by  effecting  some  popular  reforms, 
proved  capable  of  reigning.  She  died  much  lamented 
in  Cyprus ;  her  husband  died  in  1456,  and  Carlotta, 
their  daughter,  was  the  last  legitimate  descendant  of 
the  Lusignans.  King  John  of  Cyprus,  however,  left  a 
natural  son  named  James,  who  while  a  youth  had  been 
made  Archbishop  of  Cyprus. 

Carlotta  married,  first,  one  of  the  sons  of  the  King 
of  Portugal,  and  it  is  said  caused  him  to  be  poisoned 
b.ecause  he  had  endeavoured  to  abrogate  certain  laws 
which  Queen  Helena  had  made  in  favour  of  the  Greek 
clergy.  The  second  husband  of  Queen  Carlotta  was 
Louis  of  Savoy,  who  proved  unequal  to  a  contest  at 
arms  with  James,  the  natural  son  of  King  John  just 
mentioned,  and  a  man  of  great  ability,  who  was  highly 
popular  with  the  natives  of  the  island,  and  who, 
becoming  impatient  at  the  presence  of  a  stranger 
on  the  throne  of  his  father,  united  in  a  revolt  with 


34  CYPRUS. 

some  of  the  chief  persons  of  Nicosia,  with  whose  aid 
he  intended  to  expel  the  Savoyard  prince  from  power 
and  from  the  island.  Carlotta,  informed  of  the  object 
of  her  enemies,  endeavoured  to  arrest  her  brother  in  his 
own  archiepiscopal  palace,  but  he,  divesting  himself  of 
his  priestly  robes,  fled  in  disguise  to  the  nearest  port, 
Cerynia,  and  from  thence,  assisted  by  his  partisans, 
passed  into  Egypt,  where  he  solicited  the  protection 
of  the  Sultan.  This  ruler  assuring  himself  that  the 
young  rebel  would,  if  installed  king  of  the  island, 
pay  the  tribute  already  due  and  continue  it,  furnished 
the  Cypriote  archbishop  with  money  and  troops,  with 
which  aid  James  soon  returned  to  Cyprus,  and  after 
overcoming  the  by  no  means  strong  resistance  of 
Carlotta's  husband,  was  proclaimed  king,  with  the  title 
of  James  the  Second. 

Before  dismissing  his  mercenary  troops  the  new 
monarch  captured  Famagosta  from  the  Genoese,  and 
compelled  them  to  leave  the  island.  This  success 
greatly  increased  his  popularity  among  the  natives, 
who  naturally  disliked  to  see  foreign  troops  occupying 
one  of  their  most  important  cities.  He  then  shrewdly 
allied  himself  with  Venice  as  a  powerful  patron, 
capable  of  opposing  Genoa.  With  this  purpose,  and 
in  order  to  secure  an  heir  to  his  throne  and  thus  per- 
petuate the  blood  of  the  Lusignans  which  he  claimed  to 
inherit,  this  king  determined  to  marry.  It  is  probable 
that  his  illegitimate  birth  indisposed  him  to  seek  a  bride 
of  royal  blood.  He  had  seen  the  miniature  portrait 
of  a  niece  of  Cornaro,  a  Venetian  nobleman  at  his 
court,  and  fell  in  love  with  her.  He  must  have  had 
some  correspondence  with  her,  as  he  seemed  to  have 
understood  the  hint  given  him  by  the  Venetian  doge, 
Christopher  Moro,  in  a  letter  dated  July,  1469,  com- 
plaining of  his  trifling  with  the  affections  of  Catherine 
Cornaro.  On  the  receipt  of  this  letter  James  asked 


INTRODUCTION. 


35 


formally  the  hand  of  this  noble  maiden  from  the  Senate 
of  Venice,  a  request  which  with  a  gravity  suitable  to 
the  nature  of  the  proceedings  was  granted.  A  dowry 
of  a  hundred  thousand  gold  ducats  was  bestowed  on 
the  bride.  She  was  adopted  as  a  daughter  of  the 
State,  and  sent  to  Cyprus  with  a  splendid  retinue. 

The  political  and  matrimonial  arrangement  which 
was  thus  brought  about  was  not  fated  to  endure  very 
lon£.  In  147^  the  new  king  died,  leaving  his  voun«- 

O  I   /    *-'  *-J  O  v  O 

and  beautiful  wife  to  direct  the  realm  in  the  interest  of 
their  unborn  heir.  Two  months  subsequent  to  her 
husband's  decease  Catherine  gave  birth  to  a  son,  who 
received  the  name  of  his  father,  was  crowned  king  of 
the  island,  and  before  he  was  twelve  months  old 
followed  his  father  to  the  tomb. 

The  royal  office,  if  the  testament  of  King  James  had 
been  respected,  or  the  wishes  of  the  Cypriotes  consulted, 
would  have  devolved  upon  one  of  his  three  natural 
sons,  but  such  a  thing  would  not  have  suited  the 
Venetian  policy,  consequently  Loredano,  with  the 
powerful  fleet  then  wintering  in  the  island,  received 
orders  to  recognise  Catherine  without  delay  as  the 
Queen  of  Cyprus. 

Ferdinand,  King  of  Naples  and  Sicily,  also  seemed 
to  have  a  longing  eye  for  Cyprus,  and  sent  ambas- 
sadors to  the  young  widow,  offering  her  consolation, 
and  at  the  same  time  the  hand  of  his  son.  Catherine, 
whether  or  not  guided  in  the  matter  by  the  influence 
of  Venice,  declined  to  accept  the  Prince,  and  notwith- 
standing the  efforts  of  other  wooers,  remained  un- 
married. 

Catherine  thus  reigned  alone  for  sixteen  years. 
During  that  time  the  Senate  of  Venice  tried  in  vain 
to  induce  her  to  abdicate  in  favour  of  her  native 
country.  At  last,  in  1488,  disgusted  at  so  many 
intrigues,  and  recognising  the  impossibility  of  holding 


36  CYPRUS. 

the  crown  much  longer,  she  was  persuaded  by  the 
Venetian  Ambassador,  Giorgio  Cornaro,  who  was  her 
own  brother,  to  abdicate  in  favour  of  Venice. 

While  these  events  were  taking  place  in  Cyprus,  the 
unfortunate  but  heroic  Carlotta  died  in  Rome  (1487), 
bestowing  in  solemn  manner  the  kingdom  of  Cyprus  on 
Charles,  Duke  of  Savoy  and  his  heirs,  who  from  that 
time  assumed  the  title  of  Kings  of  Cyprus. 

The  Admiral  Francesco  Prioli  accepted  the  island 
in  the  name  of  Venice,  with  ceremonies  which  had 
been  designed  beforehand,  to  give  a  popular  colour  to 
an  accomplished  fact.  The  Cypriote  nobility  was  dis- 
satisfied, but  unable  to  oppose  this  change  of  Govern- 
ment. Disturbances  took  place  on  this  occasion  at 
Nicosia  and  some  other  places,  but  they  were  of  no 
consequence. 

At  Famagosta,  in  a  church  now  used  as  a  granary 
and  stable  by  the  Turks,  I  saw  in  1874  some  frag- 
ments of  a  marble  slab,  which  bore  an  inscription 
of  great  interest  in  connection  with  the  last  hours  of 
the  long  existing  realm  of  Cyprus.  On  the  upper  part 
of  the  slab  is  carved  in  low  relief  the  winged  lion  of  St. 
Mark  and  a  view  of  Famagosta  ;  the  other  portion 
had  been  broken  in  pieces,  and  used  for  the  repair 
of  the  stable  ;  though  much  worn  by  the  animals' 
hoofs,  the  inscription  could  be  made  out,  and  ran 
thus,— 

'•  FKANY/.SW  DK  PRIUI.IS  VKXET/E  CL.\SSI 
lMi>F.R<7///V  Dm  MARCI  \vssitluin 

CVPRI  /i'LICITKR    KRECTU.M    KS/ 
1488,    28 


The  ex-Queen  Catherine  started  for  Venice  early  in 
1489,  accompanied  by  Giorgio  Cornaro  and  the  three 
illegitimate  sons  of  her  husband,  who  by  order  of 
Venice  had  to  leave  Cyprus. 


INTRODUCTION.  37 

The  Doge  Barbarigo  with  the  whole  Senate  went  to 
receive  Catherine  on  her  arrival  at  Venice,  and  during 
her  stay  in  that  city  she  was  splendidly  entertained  ; 
the  beautiful  town  of  Asolo,  with  all  its  dependencies 
and  revenue,  was  assigned  to  her  in  exchange  for  her 
realm  ;  in  Asolo  she  lived  for  many  years,  the  centre 
of  no  little  romantic  sentiment,  and  some  legends 
which  yet  survive.  There  she  ended  her  days. 

The  Republic  of  Venice  retained  Cyprus  for  only 
eighty-two  years.  During  this  time  the  island  was 
visited  by  several  calamities.  In  1492  and  1542  many 
of  the  towns  were  destroyed  by  earthquakes.  In 
1544  locusts  made  their  appearance  in  such  large 
numbers,  that  they  destroyed  all  existing  vegetation, 
and  for  two  years  the  inhabitants  had  to  be  fed  with 

j 

provisions  imported  from  abroad.  In  1547  it  rained 
so  extraordinarily  that  the  rivers  were  changed  into 
torrents,  and  the  plain  of  Mesaoria  into  a  lake  ;  no 
crop  could  be  raised  that  year,  and  the  population 
suffered  as  much  as  from  the  locusts.  But  the  greatest 
calamity  that  threatened  Cyprus,  was  the  increasing 
po\ver  of  the  Turks,  and  the  advance  they  were  making 
in  Asia  and  Africa.  More  than  once  already  had 
Turkish  pirates  entered  some  of  her  ports  and  ravaged 
the  neighbouring  towns  with  impunity  as  a  prelude  of 
what  was  soon  to  follow. 

Venice,  informed  of  these  excursions,  decided  to  send 
Savorniani  with  a  staff  of  engineers  to  repair  the 
fortresses  of  Cyprus.  Famagosta  and  Cerynia  were 
repaired  sufficiently  to  resist  a  regular  siege,  the  others 
were  dismantled  as  beyond  repair.  The  walls  of 
the  city  of  Nicosia  were  reduced  considerably  in 
extent.  In  1570  Selim  II.  asked  Venice  to  cede  to 
him  the  island  of  Cyprus,  and  upon  her  refusal  he 
began  to  make  extensive  preparations  to  take  it  by 
force.  This  news  spread  consternation  among  all  the 


38  CYPRUS. 

Christian  populations  along  the  shores  of  the  Medi- 
terranean. Pope  Pius  V.  vainly  attempted  another 
crusade  by  calling  Europe  to  arms  ;  much  time  was 
lost  in  conferences  and  negotiations,  and  no  energetic 
measures  were  adopted.  Venice,  trembling,  fortified 
herself  at  home,  and  forgot  or  was  unable  to  send 
troops  to  garrison  the  fortresses  repaired  by  Savor- 
niani.  The  Turks  lost  no  time  in  sending  from 
Rhodes  and  Negropont  a  fleet  of  360  vessels  to  con- 
quer Cyprus. 

On  the  ist  of  July,  1570,  the  Turks  landed  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  Limassol,  without  any  opposition,  an 
army  of  100,000  men,  composed  of  70,000  infantry, 
30,000  cavalry,  and  200  cannon,  under  the  command 
of  Lala  Mustafa.  While  the  heavy  artillery  was  being 
landed,  his  irregular  cavalry  scoured  the  country  and 
ravaged  all  the  towns.  In  the  latter  part  of  July 
Mustafa  Pasha,  with  his  whole  army,  had  begun  the 
siege  of  Nicosia,  garrisoned  only  by  10,000  men  of 
different  nationalities  and  religion.  The  defence  was 
badly  conducted,  yet  the  Turks  spent  seven  weeks  in 
capturing  the  city,  entering  it  on  the  gth  of  September, 
after  several  desperate  assaults.  For  a  whole  week 
the  city  was  given  up  to  the  ferocity  of  the  captors, 
and  the  scenes  of  horror  w^hich  followed  beggar  de- 
scription. Twenty  thousand  persons  of  both  sexes 
were  pitilessly  butchered,  and  two  thousand  youths 
carried  away  into  captivity.  On  the  I5th  of  September, 
Mustafa  Pasha  started  to  besiege  Famagosta,  the  last 
stronghold  which  still  defied  the  barbarous  Osmanli. 

The  place  was  defended  by  Venetian  troops,  who, 
though  only  7,000  in  number,  resisted  for  a  long  time, 
always  in  the  hope  of  receiving  assistance  from  their 
mother  country.  The  efforts  of  Venice  to  help  Fama- 
gosta amounted  to  next  to  nothing.  On  the  2gth  of 
July,  after  a  siege  of  nearly  ten  months'  duration,  when 


INTRODUCTION.  39 

all  the  provisions  and  ammunition  were  exhausted,  and 
most  of  the  troops  maimed  or  killed,  the  heroic  com- 
mander General  Bragadino  displayed  the  white  flag, 
and  proposed  his  conditions  of  surrender. 

These  were  eagerly  accepted  by  the  treacherous 
Mustafa  ;  hostages  were  exchanged ;  Turkish  vessels, 
as  stipulated,  entered  the  port  of  Famagosta,  and  took 
on  board  all  those  who  wished  to  leave  the  island  ; 
nothing  remained  but  the  formality  of  delivering  the 
keys  of  the  city  to  the  victor. 

On  the  5th  of  August  General  Bragadino,  accom- 
panied by  his  lieutenants  Baglioni,  Martinengo,  and 
Quirini,  went  to  the  Turkish  camp,  and  was  politely 
received  by  Mustafa.  After  the  delivery  of  the  keys 
and  when  General  Bragadino  had  risen  to  take  leave, 
the  vile  Turk  asked  him  for  special  hostages  for  the 
safe  return  from  Candia  of  the  Turkish  vessels  which 
were  to  convey  him  and  his  men  thither ;  Bragadino 
refused  this,  as  not  having  been  stipulated  in  the 
accepted  conditions  of  his  surrender.  Then  Mustafa 
accused  him  of  bad  faith,  and  of  having  put  to  death 
fifty  Turkish  pilgrims  after  he  had  surrendered,  which 
was  indignantly  denied  by  Bragadino.  The  Pasha, 
becoming  enraged,  ordered  the  four  Venetians  to  be 
put  to  death,  and  in  a  few  minutes  General  Baglioni, 
Martinengo,  and  Quirini  were  executed  in  the  presence 
of  Bragadino,  for  whom  a  more  terrible  death  was 
reserved  ;  the  executioner  cut  off  his  nose  and  ears  : 
three  times  he  was  made  to  lay  his  head  on  the  block, 
as  if  to  be  beheaded,  then,  heavily  chained,  was  thrown 
into  a  dark  dungeon  and  left  for  nine  days  in  that 
miserable  condition. 

On  the  tenth  day,  by  order  of  Mustafa,  Bragadino 
was  brought  out  of  prison  and  made  to  carry  earth  tor 
the  repair  of  the  fortifications  during  several  hours, 
after  which,  more  dead  than  alive,  the  heroic  soldier 


40  CYPRUS. 

was  tied  to  a  stake,  and  in  the  presence  of  the  ferocious 
Mustafa  was  flayed  alive.  His  skin,  stuffed  with  hay, 
was  sent  with  the  heads  of  the  other  three  Venetians 
as  presents  to  the  Sultan. 

The  same  bloody  scenes  which  had  occurred  at 
Nicosia  were  repeated  at  Famagosta,  though  it  appears 
that  the  rage  of  the  Turks  at  this  place  was  more  par- 
ticularly directed  against  the  Roman  Catholics  ;  the 
people  on  board  the  Turkish  vessels,  instead  of  being 
brought  to  Candia,  as  it  had  been  stipulated,  were 
landed  at  Constantinople  and  sold  as  slaves. 

Thus  Cyprus  was  conquered,  and  is  doomed  to  remain 
a  part  of  the  Turkish  Empire  as  long  as  enlightened 
Christian  Powers  uphold,  by  their  jealousies,  such  an 
impracticable  and  monstrous  government. 


Terra  cotta  Vast  from  Citium,  inscribed  KHTHAC.     Height   8j|-  inches 


Larnaca  (Citium), 


CHAPTER    I. 

Appointed  American  Consul  at  Cyprus. — Arrival  at  Larnaca  in  1865.— 
Description  of  the  town. — Larnaca  built  on  the  ruins  of  Citium. — 
Its  remains  of  Phoenician,  Assyrian,  and  Greek  Art. — Foundations 
of  a  Phoenician  and  a  Greek  Temple  discovered.  —  Phoenician 
and  Greek  inscriptions  found  in  them. — Diggings  forbidden  by 
the  Turkish  authorities. — Arrest  of  a  Consular  employe. — His 
release,  and  the  satisfaction  obtained  from  the  Porte. 

AT  the  close  of  the  civil  war  in  the  United  States,  in 
which  I  had  taken  part,  I  was  appointed  Consul  at 
Cyprus  by  President  Lincoln  a  few  days  before  his  tragic 
death.  I  arrived  at  my  post  on  the  Christmas  Day  of 
1865,  after  a  stormy  voyage  of  fifteen  days  from  Ancona, 
where  I  had  taken  passage  on  board  an  Austrian  Lloyd 
steamer  for  Cyprus,  that  being  the  only  regular  line 
touching  at  the  island,  and  that  but  once  in  fifteen 
days. 

I  shall  never  forget  the  first  impression  I  had  of  the 
town  of  Larnaca,  mv  future  official  residence,  while  the 


42  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.   I 

vessel  was  slowly  steaming  towards  her  anchorage. 
The  day  was  cloudy,  and  the  sea  very  rough.  The 
anchor  was  cast  at  a  mile  or  so  from  the  shore,  there 
heing  no  harbour,  only  an  open  bay.  The  town  from 
that  distance  looked  the  very  picture  of  desolation  ;  no 
sign  of  life,  no  vegetation  anywhere  visible,  except  a 
few  solitary  palm  trees,  with  their  long  leaves  droop- 
ing, as  if  in  sign  of  mourning.  I  admit  that  my  first 
thought  was  to  remain  on  board,  and  not  to  land  on 
such  a  forlorn-looking  island. 

The  captain,  an  able  sailor,  who  during  our  extra- 
ordinarily long  passage  had  been  the  essence  of  kind- 
ness to  my  family,  endeavoured  to  persuade  us  that 
Cyprus  was  an  earthly  paradise,  and  assured  us  that 
we  should,  after  a  while,  like  it  very  much.  Has  his 
prediction  been  realised  ?  I  leave  the  reader  of  these 
pages  to  judge  by  the  fact,  that  I  am  writing  this, 
ten  years  afterwards,  from  the  same  town  ;  though 
not  quite  prepared  to  accept  its  distinctive  features  as 
paradisaical. 

I  remarked,  as  we  came  in  sight  of  Larnaca,  that 
the  "stars  and  stripes"  had  been  hoisted  on  board 
the  steamer,  as  a  token  of  respect  for  the  Repre- 
sentative of  the  American  Republic.  Soon  after- 
wards, as  if  by  enchantment,  above  a  row  of  buildings 
near  the  sea-shore,  were  seen  floating  the  flags  of  other 
nations.  They  had  almost  the  effect  of  changing  the 
aspect  of  the  town.  This  was  the  usual  compliment 
paid  by  the  foreign  Consuls  to  their  new  colleagues. 
A  large  lighter,  called  by  the  natives  "  Mahona," 
flying  the  American  colours,  soon  approached  our 
steamer.  The  craft  contained  about  twenty  persons; 
some  armed  with  antiquated  pistols,  others  with 
yatagans,  and  carrying  silver-headed  batons  six  feet 
in  length.  All  had  the  red  "  fez,"  a  common  head- 
dress of  both  the  Mussulman  and  Christian  natives  of 


CHAP.  I.]  LARNACA   (CITIUM).  43 

the  island.  This  heterogeneous  crowd  came  on  deck, 
entered  the  cabin,  and  would  in  all  probability  have 
invaded  my  state  rooms  also,  had  I  not  promptly 
come  out  to  meet  them.  The  spokesman,  expressing 
himself  in  tolerably  good  Italian,  said  that  he  had  the 
honour  to  present  to  me  the  "  staff  of  the  American 
Consulate." 

I  must  confess  I  was  not  very  proud  of  the  personal 
appearance  made  by  my  consular  employes.  Every 
one  as  he  approached  me,  instead  of  taking  my  prof- 
fered hand,  \vould  kiss  the  tips  of  my  fingers,  or  make 
pretence  of  so  doing. 

After  having  gone  through  this  ceremonial,  which 
seemed  de  rigueur,  I  was  informed  that  my  luggage 
had  been  transferred  to  the  lighter  ;  so  I  took  leave 
of  the  captain,  assisted  my  wife  and  infant  into  the 
u  Mahona,"  and  sailed  towards  the  shore.  The  nearer 
we  approached  Larnaca  the  less  I  liked  its  appear- 
ance ;  when  we  reached  within  four  or  five  yards  of  the 
shore,  where  a  large  crowd  of  people  was  gathering  to 
witness  the  arrival  of  the  new  Consul  (always  an  event 
in  this  town)  the  "  Mahona,"  probably  too  heavily 
laden,  stuck  in  the  sand,  and  a  surprise  of  a  new  kind 
awaited  us.  The  lighter,  in  spite  of  the  wild  and 
deafening  yells  of  the  boatmen  in  encouraging  one 
another,  could  not  be  made  to  advance  an  inch 
further.  A  boatman  jumped  into  the  water  and  made 
a  sign  to  me  to  alight  on  his  broad  shoulders. 
Other  boatmen  did  the  same,  and  began  to  land  my 
"staff  officers"  in  this  manner.  I  comprehended  at 
a  glance  that  there  was  nothing  else  for  me  to  do  but 
to  comply.  It  was  therefore  in  this  undiplomatic  style 
that  I  was  obliged  to  make  my  entry  into  the  city  of 
Larnaca. 

To  persuade  my  wife,  however,  to  accept  this  biped 
conveyance,  would  have  been  time  lost  ;  she  would 


44  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  J. 

have  returned  all  the  way  to  New  York,  rather  than 
submit  to  such  an  act  of  impropriety.  She  was  sure, 
she  said,  that  there  must  be  a  landing  somewhere  for 
ladies ;  but,  alas  !  the  island  of  Cyprus  does  not  re- 
semble her  native  Manhattan,  and  landing-places  here 
for  the  convenience  of  travellers  are  quite  unheard-of 
luxuries. 

A  bright  idea  occurred  to  one  of  my  employes  ;  a 
chair  was  procured,  and  held  by  two  boatmen,  and  the 
American  Consul's  wife  was  invited  to  sit  on  it,  and  be 
thus  landed  !  But  not  even  the  "  sella  curulis  "  of  a 
Roman  Senator  would  have  induced  her  to  accept  it. 
Fortunately,  however,  the  "  Mahona,"  having  been 
considerably  lightened  by  the  landing  of  all  my  em- 
ployes and  our  luggage,  was  made  to  move  once  more 
nearer  the  shore,  when  my  wife,  refusing  all  aid,  sprang 
lightly  to  the  beach.  Once  on  terra  firma,  we  were 
welcomed  by  several  foreign  Consuls,  who  had  kindly 
gathered  there  to  receive  us,  and  offer  us  their  hospi- 
tality ;  this  we  found  we  should  be  forced  to  accept  for 
a  time  from  one  of  them,  as  no  hotels  of  any  description 
exist  in  Larnaca. 

How  pleasant  it  was  to  hear  that  there  were  no 
hotels  wherein  to  take  shelter,  no  shops  wherein  to 
buy  household  furniture  of  any  kind,  and  tnat  the 
only  resource  left  for  us  was  to  accept  the  proffered 
hospitality  of  persons  utterly  unknown  to  us  five 
minutes  before  !  Yet  how  courteous  and  kindly 
manners  can  soften  even  the  asperities  of  life  amid 
a  semi-barbarous  people  !  And  such  was  my  ex- 
perience at  the  hands  of  my  Italian  colleague,  Cava- 
liere  Candido  Xegri  and  his  wife,  who  generously 
offered  us  the  hospitality  of  their  house.  I  remember 
well  the  pleasant  society  into  which  I  found  myseli 
introduced  among  my  colleagues  at  that  period  ; 
Ceccaldi  and  his  brother;  Lang  and  his  sister,  Xegri 


CHAP.  I.]  LARNACA   (CITIUM).  45 

with   his   accomplished  wife,    and   Simondetti   with   his 
young  bride. 

The  day  after  our  arrival  the  Governor,  or  Caima- 
kam  as  he  is  called,  and  other  local  authorities,  called 
officially  upon  me  ;  and  during  a  whole  week  I  was 
occupied  continually  in  receiving  or  returning  calls. 
Fortunately,  by  the  end  of  that  time,  I  succeeded  in 
getting  together  some  scanty  furniture,  which  Mr.  Lang 
and  the  Belgian  Consul  had  kindly  put  at  my  disposal, 
and  I  took  possession  of  a  tolerably  good  house,  in 
which  I  am  living  at  the  present  day. 

Larnaca,  which  derives  its  name  from  the  ancient 
tombs  upon  which  it  is  partly  built,  is  a  modern  town, 
sprung  into  existence  since  the  conquest  of  the  island 
by  the  Turks,  and  like  some  of  the  ancient  cities  of 
Cyprus  is  divided  into  two  separate  districts,  about 
twenty  minutes'  walk  from  each  other.  That  portion 
which  lies  along  the  seashore  is  called  the  "  Marina," 
while  Larnaca  proper  is  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile 
inland. 

Some  forty  or  fifty  years  ago  all  the  consulates  were 
in  Larnaca;  the  "Marina"  at  that  period  consisting 
only  of  a  few  scattered  houses  and  magazines.  But 
since  the  pirates  of  the  Greek  Archipelago,  who  used  to 
infest  these  shores,  have  ceased  to  exist,  thanks  espe- 
cially to  England,  the  "  Marina  "  has  become  the 
commercial  centre  of  the  whole  island.  The  shore  is 
now  covered  for  half  a  mile  in  extent  with  private 
dwelling-houses,  possesses  an  extensive  bazaar,  several 
churches  and  mosques,  and  is  increasing  every  year,  in 
the  same  ratio  as  Larnaca  proper  becomes  depopulated. 
The  foreign  Consuls,  with  one  or  two  exceptions,  reside 
at  the  "  Marina,"  in  a  row  of  buildings  a  few  feet  from 
the  sea,  almost  following  one  another  in  succession. 
The  exterior  appearance  of  the  houses  is  rather  humble, 
and  without  pretension  ;  but  they  are  spacious,  and  not 


46  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  I. 

altogether  deprived  of  a  certain  degree  of  comfort.  I 
am  led  to  believe,  from  the  Greek  church  of  Saint 
Lazarus  still  existing  in  the  neighbourhood,  which  is 
said  by  the  natives  to  have  been  built  over  the  tomb  of 
Saint  Lazarus  more  than  a  thousand  years  ago,  and 
which  bears  evident  traces  of  Byzantine  architecture, 
but  above  all  from  tombs  of  that  period  which  I  dis- 
covered in  its  immediate  vicinity,  and  the  remains  of 
mosaic  pavements  met  with  here  and  there,  that 
previous  to  the  Turkish  conquest,  not  only  storehouses, 
but  a  town  of  some  importance  existed  here,  though  no 
record  of  the  fact,  that  I  know  of,  now  remains.  The 
population  of  both  districts  does  not  amount  to  more 
than  8,000  souls;  of  these  about  3,000  are  Mussulmans, 
and  the  remainder  Christians.  There  is  likewise  a 
sprinkling  of  the  descendants  of  Europeans.  A  little 
north-west  of  the  "  Marina,"  in  the  intervening  fields 
between  the  two  districts,  are  to  be  seen  evident  remains 
of  the  ancient  city  of  Citium. 

The  distance  from  Citium  to  Amathus  is  about  forty- 
eight  miles,  or  twelve  hours'  ride  (as  reckoned  by  the 
native  mode  of  travelling).  Like  Amathus,  it  had  been 
founded  by  Phoenicians,  and  it  is  probable,  as  already 
pointed  out,  that  it  was  owing  to  the  paramount  import- 
ance of  this  town  that  its  name  of  Kittim  was  in  early 
times  applied  to  the  whole  island.  It  seems  also  to 
have  retained  its  Phoenician  character  longer  than  such 
other  towns  as  Amathus  and  Paphos,  being  always  a 
place  celebrated  for  its  trade  and  commerce,  and  not 
being  under  the  hierarchical  influence  which  prevailed 
in  those  two  towns.  In  the  earliest  records,  as  of  the 
refusal  to  pay  tribute  to  Tyre  in  the  reign  of  Hiram, 
and  afterwards  again  in  the  reign  of  Elulaeus,  Citium 
is  identified  with  Cyprus,  but  it  is  not  certain  whether 
we  ought  to  conclude  from  this  that  it  had  taken  a 
leading  part  in  these  movements,  though  such  is  far 


CHAP.  I.] 


LARNACA   (CITIUM). 


47 


from  improbable.  As  Tyre  sank  in  importance,  Citium, 
from  its  position,  was  well  suited  to  take  its  place  as  a 
centre  of  commerce  between  the  East  and  the  West.  In 
the  time  of  Sargon  (B.C.  707)  we  find  the  King  of  Citium 
included  among  the  six  other 
Kings  of  Cyprus  who  paid  hom- 
age to  that  Assyrian  monarch. 
This  appears  from  the  cuneiform 
inscription  accompanying  the  has 
relief  of  an  Assyrian  figure  on  a 
slab  of  basalt  found  in  the  western 
outskirts  of  the  "  Marina  "  of 
Larnaca  in  1846,  and  now  in  the 
Berlin  Museum.  The  engraving 
here  given  of  this  slab  I  owe  to 
the  kindness  of  Professor  Lep- 
sius,  who  sent  me  a  photograph 
of  it.  A  King  of  Citium  also 
appears  among  the  ten  Cypriote 
kings  who  paid  tribute  to  Esar- 
haddon. 

A  considerable  number  of 
Phoenician  inscriptions  disco- 
vered at  Citium,  and  published 
by  Gesenius,  are  evidence  of  its 
having  continued  to  be  the  re- 
sidence of  Phoenicians,  whilst 
its  readiness  to  take  part  with 

the  Persians  against  the  Greeks,  appears  to  show  that 
the  Phoenician  element  had  preponderated  in  its  popu- 
lation. It  was  on  an  occasion  of  this  kind  that  it  was 
besieged  by  the  Athenian,  Cimon,  the  son  of  Miltiades, 
who  lost  his  life  there.  Yet  it  is  said  by  Plutarch,  in 
his  life  of  Cimon,  that  the  people  of  Citium  paid  special 
reverence  to  his  tomb,  but  they  had  been  directed  to 
do  so  by  an  oracle  in  some  time  of  famine.  That 


Slab  with  Cuneiform  Inscription, 
In  Berlin  Museum. 


^8  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  I. 

Citium  was  regarded  as  a  Phoenician  town  even  in  the 
time  of  Cicero  (de  Finibus,  iv.  20),  may  be  inferred 
from  his  calling  Zeno,  the  founder  of  the  Stoics,  a 
Phoenician,  to  which  title  he  could  have  no  other 
claim  than  that  of  his  having  been  born  in  Citium, 
since  by  parentage  he  was  a  Greek.  Suidas  also 
calls  him  a  Phoenician.  To  the  Greek  part  of  the 
population  was  probably  due  the  legend  that  the 
town  had  taken  its  name  from  Citia,  a  daughter  of 
a  king  of  Salamis,  which  town  or  kingdom  gradually 
superseded  Citium  in  importance  under  the  rule  of 
Evagoras. 

In  B.C.  391  Citium,  with  Amathus  and  Soli,  sent 
to  Artaxerxes  for  assistance  against  Evagoras.  The 
Persian  monarch  arrived  with  a  fleet  and  an  army. 
For  a  while  the  forces  were  equally  matched,  and 
equally  destructive  of  each  other,  till  ultimately  the  fleet 
of  Evagoras  was  completely  destroyed.  At  this  time 
Citium  was  a  fortified  place  of  considerable  extent,  and 
continued  to  be  so  during  the  sovereignty  of  the 
Ptolemies  over  the  island,  as  appears  from  Greek  in- 
scriptions of  the  latter  period  found  here  (Engel,  i., 
p.  106—7),  in  which  such  military  titles  as  ^povpdpyos 
and  ap^tcraj/xaro^^Xa^  occur. 

Alexander  the  Great  bestowed  the  sovereignty  of 
Citium  on  Pnytagoras,  the  previous  king  having  been 
Pasicyprus,  who  it  would  seem,  preferring  luxury  to  the 
cares  of  government,  had  sold  his  kingship  for  fifty 
talents  to  one  Pymatus.  After  Pnytagoras  there  are 
mentioned,  as  kings  of  Citium,  Xicocreon  and  Pygma- 
lion, the  latter  of  whom,  on  the  breaking  up  of  the 
empire  of  Alexander,  took  part  with  Antigonus.  This, 
however,  proved  the  losing  side,  and  Pygmalion  was 
removed  from  his  kingdom  by  Ptolemy,  the  rival  of 
Antigonus.  From  this  time  a  military  officer  seems  to 
have  taken  the  place  of  the  old  kings  of  Citium. 


CHAP.  I.] 


LARNACA    (CITIUM). 


49 


The  close  harbour  of  Citium,  mentioned  by  Strabo, 
is  almost  entirely  filled  up,  and  upon  the  foundations  of 
a  portion  of  its  pier  now  stands  a  convent  of  French 
nuns ;  large  stones  belonging  to  the  ancient  pier  are 
found  in  the  fields  east  of  this  convent,  and  remains  of  the 
city  walls  and  of  a  castle  are  yet  to  be  met  with  at  a  few 
feet  beneath  the  surface  two  hundred  yards  north-east 
of  the  convent.  The  ancient  coastline  is  still  marked 
by  a  continuous  undulating  line  of  rock,  formed  of  agglo- 
merated pebbles  naturally  cemented  together  by  time, 
and  mistaken  bv  Pococke  and  other  European  travellers 


Phanerumene. 


for  the  foundations  of  the  walls  which  encircled  the 
ancient  city.  The  only  monument  of  Phoenician  archi- 
tecture still  extant  is  a  sepulchral  chapel  or  tomb,  com- 
posed of  four  large  stones  ;  the  one  forming  the  roof 
overlaps  the  others  and  forms  a  kind  of  portico.  The 
natives  call  this  place  fyavepw/jLevr)  (Phaneromene),  and 
the  Greek  peasants  go  there  to  light  in  the  interior  of 
it  candles  and  lamps  in  honour  of  the  Panaghia  (Holy 
Virgin) . 

On  the  site  of  a  low  hill  overlooking  the  salt  lake  to 
the  west  of  the  "  Marina,"  a  number  of  small  terra- 
cotta figures  have  been  found  from  time  to  time  during 
the  past  twenty  years,  and  a  few  specimens  of  them, 


CYPRUS. 


[CHAP.  I. 


chiefly,  however,  very  fragmentary,  may  he  seen  in  the 
Xew  York  and  British  Museums.  The  typical  figure 
represented  in  these  terra-cottas  is  a  seated  goddess 
draped  and  wearing  a  high  crown  (stephanos),  richly 
ornamented  with  rosettes  and  sphinxes,  resembling  the 
figure  of  a  sphinx  in  gold  found  at  Curium,  or,  as  in 
one  instance  in  the  British  Museum,  with  the  figure  of 
a  dancing  Maenad.  From  the  back  of  the  head  hangs 

a  veil.  In  the  example 
here  given  (which  is  eleven 
and  a  half  inches  high)  she 
is  supported  on  each  side 
by  a  female  figure,  each 
holding  a  casket. 

Supposing  the  central 
figure  to  be  Aphrodite,  then 
the  two  attendants  might  be 
either  Eunomia  and  Paidia, 
as  on  a  painted  Greek  vase 
in  the  British  Museum  where 
their  names  are  inscribed, 
or  some  other  two  com- 
panions, such  as  Peitho, 
who  are  represented  on 
works  of  art  as  attending  her ;  on  the  other  hand, 
the  high  crown  and  the  hand  raised  to  the  breast 
would  suggest  the  goddess  Demeter,  whose  worship  is 
known  to  have  existed  in  the  island,  and  to  have  been 
accompanied  by  a  very  celebrated  festival.  This  sug- 
gestion is  confirmed  by  the  discovery  on  this  spot  of 
two  inscriptions  in  honour  of  Demeter  Paralia,  to 
whom  there  appears  to  have  been  erected  a  temple 
here.  In  the  British  Museum  is  part  of  a  terra- 
cotta group  from  Dali,  apparently  representing  the 
same  subject,  but  only  one  of  the  supporting  figures 
remains ;  the  goddess  herself  is  headless.  Amoni>~ 


Terra-cntta  group  of  Goddess  with  two 
Attendants.     Hi.,  ni  inches. 


CHAP.  I.] 


LARNACA    (CITIUM). 


the  terra-cottas  found  here  were  also  a  number  of 
other  female  figures,  some  seated  and  others  standing, 
and  a  large  percentage  of  rude  grotesque  represen- 
tations, but  mostly  with  a  tambourine  in  their  hands 
or  a  lyre.  One  of  these  figures  is  remarkable  as 


Terra-cotta 

Statuette. 

Ht.  6  inches. 


Terra-cotta 

Statuette. 

Ht.  8  inches 


Terra-cotta  Statuette. 
Portrait  of  a 
Philosopher? 
Ht.  10  inches. 


being  a  portrait  probably  of  a  philosopher.  From  the 
fine  quality  of  the  clay  and  the  general  artistic  spirit 
of  these  terra-cottas,  particularly  of  the  groups  of  the 
seated  goddess,  it  seems  less  likely  that 
they  were  the  provincial  work  of  Cyprus 
than  that  they  had  been  imported  from 
Greece,  most  probably  from  Athens,  be- 
tween which  and  Cyprus  there  existed 
active  intercourse  in  the  4th  century  B.C. 
To  this  period  of  Greek  art  these  figures 
appear  to  belong.  Further,  had  they  been 
produced  by  local  artists  in  Cyprus,  we 
should  have  expected  to  find  in  them  some  Terra-cotta  statuette. 
local  peculiarity,  for  example,  of  dress, 
such  as  we  find  in  the  terra-cottas  from  Tanagra  in 
Bceotia.  But  this  is  not  the  case.  Alon<i  with  these 


52  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  I. 

terra-cottas  of  a  good  period  of  art,  and  the  many 
coarsely  executed  figures,  chiefly  representing  musical 
performers,  I  found  also  a  number  of  others  represent- 
ing an  Egyptian  goddess  with  a  cow's  head,  and  with 
the  breasts  largely  developed. 

A  distinguished  archaeologist  who  visited  Larnaca  in 
1867,  is  of  opinion  that  these  remains  were  those  of  a 
potter's  manufactory ;  but  upon  careful  examination  I 
have  become  convinced  that  this  was  a  wrong  theory, 
and  that  the  terra-cottas  belonged  to  a  temple ;  in 
fact,  on  the  crest  of  the  mound  several  years  after- 
wards, I  discovered  foundations  of  walls,  with  frag- 
ments of  frescoed  plaster  and  two  little  marble 
pedestals  with  the  inscription  AHMHTHP  IIAPAAIA, 
already  referred  to,  on  both  of  them.  Before  the  har- 
bour of  Citium  was  filled  up,  this  mound  must  have 
stood  very  near  the  sea  ;  and  the  epithet  of  Paralia  or 
protectrix  of  the  seashore  given  to  the  goddess,  was 
thus  an  appropriate  one. 

Another  reason  for  believing  that  a  temple  stood 
there,  and  not  a  potter's  factory,  is  the  quantity  of 
tombs  which  surround  the  spot,  and  which  mostly,  if 
not  all,  belong  to  the  same  period  as  the  terra-cottas  ; 
that  is,  from  400  to  300  years  before  Christ. 

It  w?as  on  this  mound  that  I  began,  in  1866, 
in  a  mere  amateur  way,  the  explorations  which  were 
afterwards  to  expand  into  very  serious  undertakings, 
and  to  extend  to  every  part  of  the  island.  During 
my  residence  in  Larnaca  I  explored  more  than  3000 
tombs,  mostly  discovered  on  the  western  side  of  the 
"  Marina,"  but,  with  very  few  exceptions,  they  proved 
to  be  of  the  Greek  period,  varying  from  400  B.C. 
to  the  second  century  of  our  era  ;  and  all  of  them 
were  mere  holes  excavated  in  the  earth  in  the  shape  of 
an  oven. 

In  a  tomb  a  few  hundred  yards  north  of  the  Phoenician 


CHAP.  I.] 


LARNACA    (CITIUM). 


53 


sepulchral  chapel  before  mentioned,  I  discovered  a  very 
large  sarcophagus  in  white  marble,  in  excellent  preser- 
vation, the  lid  having  at  the  head  a  representation  of 
a  female  head  with  long  tresses.  The  resemblance 


Tombs  containing  the  Sarcophagus  and  Alabaster  Vases. 

between  this  sarcophagus  and  the  Phoenician  sarcophagi 
in  the  Louvre,  from   Siclon,   is  very   striking.     Two  of 


Lid  of  a  Sarcophagus.      Length  9  feet. 

these  will  be  found  engraved  in  Longperier's  "  Musee 
Napoleon  III.,"  pi.  16,  17.  A  very  similar  sarco- 
phagus from  Siclon  is  in  the  British  Museum,  and 
another,  discovered  by  me  at  Amathus,  is  still  packed 
in  the  courtyard  of  the  Metropolitan  Museum  of  Art 
in  New  York.  In  another  tomb  almost  contiguous 


54 


CYPRUS. 


[CHAP.  1. 


to  that  in  which  the  marble  sarcophagus  was  found, 
two  large  alabaster  vases  with  their  covers  were  dis- 
covered. On  one 
of  these  vases  is 
incised  a  Phoeni- 
cian inscription  oi 
a  few  letters  only. 
(See  Appendix.) 

Another  sarco- 
phagus was  found 
in  a  field  adjacent 
to  the  mound  con- 
taining the  terra- 
cotta figures  ;  it 
is  evidently  of  a 
later  period.  In  the 
intervening  fields 
between  the  "  Ma- 
rina" and  Larnaca 
proper,  near  the 
aqueduct,  I  found 
an  architectural 
fragment  of  white 
marble  with  a  bas- 
relief  representing 


apparently    Silenus   seizing    hold    of   a   Maenad    (Doell, 
Die    Sammlung    Cesnola,    Xo.   ^33,    pi.  vn.     14)     and    a 


CHAP.  I.] 


LARNACA    (C1TIUM). 


55 


mutilated  statue,  perhaps  of  Ganymede  with  the  eagle, 
also  in  white  marble. 


Archaic  Vase,  found  with  alabaster  vases  at  Larnaca, 

Another  temple  had  existed  on  a  little  eminence 
south-west  of  the  salt  lake,  and  in  the  vicinity  of  a 
Turkish  mosque  or  convent  containing  the  coffin  in 
which,  it  is  said,  the  foster  sister  of  Fatima,  the  sister 
of  Mahomet,  was  buried,  and  for  this  reason  it  is  held 
in  great  veneration  by  the  Mahometans.  At  a  depth  of 
i Q  inches  I  found  several  fragments  of  white  marble 
bowls  and  paterae  with  Phoenician  inscriptions  incised 
on  their  rim. 

The  foundations  of  this  Phoenician  temple  were  found 
3^  feet  below  the  surface  ;  also  portions  of  the  pave- 
ment consisting  of  large  square  slabs  in  calcareous 
stone  of  the  same  shape  as  those  used  at  the  present 
day  in  Cyprus,  but  much  larger.  One  which  was  dis- 
covered intact  measured  3  feet  9  inches  in  length  by 
3  feet  4  inches  in  width,  and  was  nearly  4  inches  thick. 
The  foundations  were  found  in  a  broken  condition,  and 


56  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  I. 

had  been  previously  destroyed  by  stone  diggers.  In 
one  of  the  tombs  situated  between  this  temple,  which 
stood  upon  a  conical  mound,  and  the  hill  containing 
the  terra-cottas,  but  nearer  to  the  latter,  one  of  my 
diggers  with  his  companions  in  1870  discovered  a 
bronze  vase  closed  at  the  top  with  a  leaden  cover. 
When,  from  a  fracture,  some  gold  coins  came  rolling 
out,  a  scuffle  ensued  between  the  diggers,  and  they 
stupidly  damaged  it  beyond  repair.  They  found  in  it 
990  staters  of  Philip  and  his  son  Alexander. 

After  a  few  experiments  in  the  vicinity  of  Larnaca,  I 
travelled  along  the  southern  coast  of  Cyprus.  Visiting 
the  sites  of  Amathus  and  Paphos,  and  other  localities 
in  their  neighbourhood,  I  came  to  the  conclusion,  that 
had  I  sufficient  funds  at  my  disposal,  I  might  explore 
some  of  these  ruins  with  a  fair  chance  of  success. 
I  explained  the  plan  I  had  conceived  to  some  of  my 
acquaintances,  both  in  Europe  and  America,  but  none 
seemed  to  be  disposed  to  embark  in  so  doubtful  and 
expensive  an  enterprise.  I  had  almost  given  up  the 
hope  of  being  able  to  continue  my  explorations,  when 
an  incident  occurred  which  seemed  to  put  an  end  to 
them  for  ever  ;  yet  the  result  was  quite  the  contrary. 

The  Caimakam  (Governor)  of  Larnaca  one  day  arrested 
two  of  my  diggers  without  previously  informing  me,  as 
is  the  custom,  of  his  intention.  I  at  once  called  on 
him  for  an  explanation  ;  he  informed  me  in  an  arrogant 
manner  that  diggings  without  a  firman  were  strictly 
forbidden.  I  replied  that  the  necessity  for  a  firman  to 
dig  in  Cyprus  must  be  something  new,  as  I  had  not 
previously  heard  of  it.  "  That  is  not  my  affair,"  said 
he  ;  and  no  persuasions  of  mine  could  induce  him  to 
liberate  my  two  men,  whom  he  retained  arbitrarilv 
in  prison  for  several  days  without  any  judgment.  \Yhen 
it  is  considered  that  prisoners  for  petty  offences  are 
obliged  in  Cyprus  to  provide  their  own  food  or  starve, 


CHAP.  I.]  THE    CAIMAKAM    OF    LARNACA.  57 

and  that  their  families  have  only  their  daily  labour  to 
rely  on  for  support,  the  hardship  and  injustice  of  this 
sentence  is  easily  perceived.  From  that  day  I  had  a 
grudge  against  the  Caimakam  of  Larnaca,  Genab 
Effendi,  and  I  promised  to  repay  him  whenever  an 
occasion  should  present  itself.  I  had  not  long  to  wait. 
One  morning  a  notable  Turk  of  the  "  Marina  "  came 
and  begged  me  to  appoint  him  to  the  vacant  post  of 
American  Consular  Guard,  explaining  to  me  that  the 
Caimakam  had  a  personal  spite  against  him,  and  had 
sworn  to  have  him  drafted  into  the  military  service.  I 
was  delighted  to  have  so  soon  a  chance  of  squaring  my 
accounts  with  Genab  Effendi,  and  I  immediately  ap- 
pointed Mustafa  Fefsi  a  regular  privileged  American 
employe.  The  Caimakam  went  into  a  great  rage  when 
he  heard  of  this  appointment,  but,  Turk-like,  he  im- 
mediately called  on  me,  and  tried  in  his  blandest 
manner  to  induce  me  to  make  another  selection.  He 
promised  never  to  interfere  in  my  excavations  again,  if 
I  would  but  appoint  another  man  instead  of  Mustafa; 
but  I  laughed  at  him,  and  positively  refused  to  have 
any  other. 

Genab  Effendi,  however,  intrigued  so  effectively  with 
his  superior,  the  Governor-General  of  the  island,  that 
the  latter,  quite  a  la  tiirquc,  without  the  slightest 
authority,  refused  to  recognise  Mustafa  as  my  consular 
cavass,  and  wrote  to  me  that  I  must  select  another 
person.  I  replied  that  by  the  existing  Regulations 
issued  by  the  Porte,  and  sanctioned  by  the  foreign 
Legations  at  Constantinople,  I  had  the  full  right  to 
select  whomsoever  I  pleased  for  my  consular  employes, 
and  that  I  would  positively  insist  on  my  selection,  and 
protect  Mustafa  against  his  Excellency,  his  Caimakam, 
or  anybody  else. 

Four  months  elapsed,  and  I  thought  the  affair  had 
been  dropped,  as  is  often  the  case  with  the  Turks,  but  I 


58  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  i. 

was  mistaken.  One  day  about  this  time,  when  Mustafa 
had  been  sent  by  me  on  some  official  errand,  he  was 
chased  by  the  Turkish  police  into  an  American  store- 
house, taken  from  it  by  force,  and  imprisoned  as  a 
deserter  from  the  Turkish  army. 

My  colleagues,  as  well  as  the  whole  island,  were 
anxious  to  know  what  would  be  my  action  in  the 
matter,  and  whether  I  would  succeed  in  getting  back 
my  cavass,  Mustafa.  As  a  mere  necessary  formality, 
I  demanded  at  once  the  restitution  of  my  man  from  the 
Caimakam,  and,  as  might  be  expected,  without  success. 
I  then  claimed  him  under  protest  from  the  Governor- 
General  of  Cyprus,  with  a  like  result.  There  was  no 
time  to  be  lost,  and  I  took  the  first  steamer  for 
Constantinople,  to  lay  my  complaint  before  the  Hon. 
Edward  Joy  Morris,  our  American  Minister  at  the 
Porte,  explaining  to  him  the  whole  case.  He  entirely 
approved  the  course  I  had  pursued,  and  promised  to 
sustain  my  demands  for  redress  in  the  strongest  manner, 
and  he  kept  his  word. 

The  satisfaction  I  asked  was  very  unpalatable  to 
the  Turks  at  Constantinople,  and  the  Grand  Vizir,  Aali 
Pasha,  hoped  to  evade  it  by  proposing  the  appointment 
of  a  mixed  commission  to  proceed  to  Cyprus,  in  order 
to  investigate  the  truth  of  my  allegations,  which  Mr. 
Morris  and  I  readily  accepted.  The  Turkish  officials 
relied  chiefly  upon  the  usual  prevarication  of  their  sub- 
ordinates in  like  cases,  to  sustain  their  cause  ;  but  the 
able  manner  in  which  the  American  Commissioner, 
Mr.  Augustus  J.  Johnson,  then  Consul-General  at 
Beirut,  handled  the  whole  case,  caused  a  decision 
entirely  in  my  favour.  The  timely  arrival  in  the  Bay 
of  Larnaca  of  two  American  vessels  of  war,  the 
"  Ticonderoga  "  and  the  "  Canandaigua,"  coinciding 
exactly  with  the  ultimatum  sent  by  Mr.  Morris  to  the 
Porte,  that  if  within  a  week  after  the  decision,  full 


CHAP.  I.]     RESULT    OF   THE    CAIMAKAM'S    INTRIGUE.  59 

satisfaction,  as  promised,  was  not  given,  the  American 
flag  would  be  lowered,  forced  the  Ottoman  Government 
to  accede  to  all  our  demands,  and  officially  to  acknow- 
ledge that  the  local  authorities  at  Cyprus  had  acted  in 
an  arbitrary  manner,  and  involuntarily  ( ! )  insulted  the 
American  Consul.  The  following  was  the  satisfaction 
received  : 

ist.  The  dismissal  of  Genab  Effendi  from  the  posi- 
tion of  Governor  of  Larnaca,  and  he  to  be  for 
ever  disqualified  for  holding  any  office  under 
the  Ottoman  Government. 

2nd.  The  restitution  of  Mustafa  Fefsi  and  his  official 
recognition  as  American  Consular  Guard. 

3rd.  A  salute  of  21  guns  to  the  American  flag  by  the 
fortress  of  Larnaca. 

4th.  The  payment  of  10,000  piastres  damages  to  the 
American  dragoman  for  the  unlawful  entrance 
by  the  Turkish  police  into  his  premises,  with- 
out the  permission  of  the  American  Consul. 

5th.  The  Governor-General  of  Cyprus  to  express  his 
regret  officially  by  letter  to  the  American 
Consul  for  the  mistake  that  he  had  made. 

It  was  further  stipulated  and  agreed  between  the 
Grand  Vizir  and  the  American  Minister  that  the 
Governor-General  should  also,  after  the  incident  was 
closed,  be  removed  from  Cyprus,  and  sent  elsewhere ; 
in  fact,  a  month  later,  a  new  Pasha  arrived  from  Con- 
stantinople to  take  his  place.  After  such  a  rude  but 
salutary  lesson  the  Turkish  authorities  of  this  island 
became  extremely  courteous  in  their  behaviour  towards 
the  American  Consul,  thus  often  reminding  me  of  their 
national  proverb,  "the  hand  thou  canst  not  cut  off  thou 
must  kiss." 


6o 


CYPRUS. 


[CHAP.  I. 


I  therefore  can  cheerfully  declare  that  during  the  ten 
years  I  remained  in  Cyprus  after  that  event,  no  act  of 
the  Turks  ever  gave  me  serious  cause  of  complaint ; 
and  the  plan  I  had  conceived  for  extensive  explorations 
was  carried  into  execution  some  months  afterwards, 
independently  of  all  exterior  aid,  by  embarking  all  my 
private  means  in  the  enterprise. 


Terra-cotta  Mask.     Ht.  u  inches. 


CHAPTER    II. 

Country  life. — Cypriote  customs. — Description  of  Dali. — Former  exca- 
vations of  French  archaeologists. — Identification  of  site  of  Dali 
with  that  of  Idalium. — Accidental  discovery  of  a  tomb. — Survey 
of  the  fields. — An  extensive  necropolis  beneath  them. — Purchase 
and  lease  of  ground. — Arrival  of  the  Firman. — Commencement 
of  diggings. — Description  of  tombs  and  their  contents. — T\vo 
tiers  of  tombs. — Charge  of  desecration  of  a  Turkish  cemetery. — 
Arrival  of  the  Pasha,  and  removal  of  the  Cadi  of  Dali. 

THE  great  heat  which  prevails  during  the  summer 
months  in  Larnaca,  notwithstanding  the  land  and  sea 
breezes  which  at  times  mitigate  it  to  some  extent, 
renders  the  city  during  this  period  almost  uninhabitable 
by  Europeans  ;  and  they,  as  well  as  the  natives  whose 
means  permit,  escape  to  some  shady  spot  in  the  interior 
till  the  end  of  September. 

Shortly  after  my  affair  with  the  local  Government, 
the  death  of  a  dear  relative  called  me  to  Italy,  and  on 
returning  in  the  autumn,  I  found  that  my  wife  and 
children  had  suffered  intensely  from  the  heat.  I  there- 
fore determined  to  seek  some  suitable  residence  in  the 
country,  which  might  serve  as  a  refuge  during  these 
trying  months.  On  the  occasion  of  a  visit  to  Nicosia, 
the  capital  of  the  island,  I  had  passed  a  night  in  the 
village  of  Dali,  which  is  about  half-way  between  Nicosia 
and  Larnaca,  and  remarked  on  its  outskirts  a  grove  of 
lemon  and  orange  trees,  amid  which  nestled  a  small 
white  cottage,  connected  with  several  outbuildings.  I 


62  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.   II. 

brought  my  wife  to  visit  this  spot,  and  we  decided  that 
it  might  be  converted  into  a  pleasant  retreat,  and  soon 
induced  the  proprietor  to  cede  it  to  us  for  a  small 
remuneration,  during  the  hot  season.  This  he  did  the 
more  readily  as  the  peasants  live  almost  entirely  out-of- 
doors  from  June  till  September,  it  rarely  ever  happening 
that  a  drop  of  dew,  and  almost  never  a  drop  of  rain, 
falls  during  these  months.  They  place  their  beds 
under  the  trees,  making  the  branches  of  the  latter  do 
duty  as  clothes-press,  larder,  and  pantry.  They  will 
frequently  throw  a  handkerchief  upon  the  ground,  and 
lay  their  infants  to  sleep  upon  it,  satisfied  that  neither 
moisture  nor  creeping  thing  will  harm  the  child,  for 
Dali  is  wonderfully  free  from  noxious  reptiles.  Another 
reason,  which  had  great  weight  in  my  selection  of  Dali 
as  a  temporary  residence,  was  the  fact  that  an  old 
Greek  peasant,  called  Hadji  Jorghi,  had  brought  me 
from  time  to  time  fragments  of  sculptures  from  this 
village,  which  greatly  interested  me. 

This  simple  abode  became  our  summer-resort  for 
several  years.  It  was  surrounded  by  about  six  acres  of 
ground,  laid  out  in  alleys  of  lemon  and  orange  trees, 
and  the  favourite  caisha,""  from  the  blossoms  of  which 
exhaled  a  delightful  perfume.  Two  noble  walnut-trees 
overshadowed  the  immemorial  alakati^  and  extended 
their  shade  to  our  out-of-door  salon,  where  we  sat  the 
day  long,  reading,  writing,  and  chatting,  with  the  grate- 
ful breeze  at  all  hours  coming  through  the  long  verdant 
alleys  hung  with  luscious  fruit.  A  small  rivulet  of  the 
purest  water  found  its  way  from  cold  sources  to  the  feet 
of  these  walnut-trees,  the  broad  leafy  branches  of  which 
formed  the  ceiling  of  our  drawing-room,  and  being 
blocked  by  a  pile  of  rude  stones,  over  which  it  tumbled, 


*   A  delicious  species  of  nectarine. 
t  The  oriental  or  common  well. 


CHAP.  II.]  DALI    (IDALIUM).  63 

in  cascade  fashion,  into  a  basin  scooped  out  to  receive 
it,  served  as  wine-cooler  and  refrigerator.  We  soon 
adopted  the  housekeeping  system  of  the  peasants,  and 
hung  our  plate-baskets  and  table  linen  among  the 
trees ;  and  spreading  out  the  thick  mats  of  the  country, 
with  a  wooden  settle  dining  table  and  some  rouirh 

o  o 

chairs,  we  soon  arranged  a  dining  hall,  where  our 
Turkish  attendants  served  us  with  as  much  attention 
as  if  at  a  state  dinner,  though  not  with  quite  the  same 
ceremony. 

A  tent  pitched  near  by  became  a  boudoir  for  my 
wife  and  infant  daughters,  whom  she  regularly  in- 
structed in  English  ;  and,  a  little  further  on,  a  few 
Turkish  rugs  and  divans  formed  the  reception-room 
of  state  for  the  notables  of  Dali,  consisting  of  an 
old  Cadi,  three  wealthy  Turks  of  Potamia,  inhabit- 
ing wrhat  was  once  a  royal  palace  and  the  summer 
residence  of  the  Lusignan  Queens,  and  an  illiterate 
Greek  priest. 

Dali  is  built  on  the  western  bank  of  a  branch  of  the 
ancient  river  Pedeus,  now  a  mere  winter  torrent,  in  the 
centre  of  a  by  no  means  extensive  but  very  picturesque 
plain.  A  triple  range  of  hills  almost  encircles  it,  and 
shelters  it  from  the  excessive  heat  of  summer.  It  would 
seem,  from  the  great  number  of  tombs  I  discovered, 
that  the  ancient  Ida  Hum  had  been  of  greater  extent 
than  would  be  supposed  from  the  existing  literary 
records  in  which  it  is  mentioned  almost  exclusively, 
on  account  of  its  Temple  of  Venus  and  delightful 
grove.  Virgil  (.Eneid,  I.  691)  makes  Venus  convey 
Ascanius  to  the  Idalian  fields,  with  their  sweet  scents 
and  pleasant  shade.  Adonis  was  slain  while  hunting 
on  the  Idalian  hills.  The  town  itself  is  said  by  Pliny 
to  have  been  small,  but  that  may  apply  only  to  its 
condition  in  his  time.  Its  foundation  was  ascribed 
to  a  King  Chalcanor,  with  which  event  was  coupled  a 


64  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  II. 

fanciful  derivation  of  the  name  Idalion  from  el$oi>  a\iov 
(ri\iov),  the  story  being  that  Chalcanor  had  been  di- 
rected by  an  oracle  to  found  a  town  on  the  spot  where 
he  should  first  see  the  sun  rise. 

It  was  Count  de  Vogue,  I  believe,  who  identified 
Dali  as  the  site  of  the  Phoenician  city  Idalium,  during 
his  explorations  in  Cyprus  in  1862.  These  excavations 
were  afterwards  continued  by  the  French  Consul  at 
Cyprus,  and  Mr.  Peretie,  a  well-known  numismatist  01 
Beirut,  in  company  with  a  native  called  Cesare  Mattei, 
of  Larnaca,  on  a  small  scale  and  with  but  indifferent 
success.  Count  de  Vogue,  in  a  letter  addressed  to  M. 
Ernest  Renan,  which  afterwards  appeared  in  the  French 
"Revue  Archeologique  "  of  October,  1862,  declared  that 
nothing  more  could  be  found  at  Dali.  Happily,  neither 
Mr.  Lang  nor  I  accepted  seriously  these  hasty  conclu- 
sions, otherwise  much  valuable  archaeological  informa- 
tion concerning  the  island,  brought  to  light  by  Mr. 
Lang  from  a  temple,  and  by  me  from  some  15,000  tombs, 
might  have  remained  still  buried. 

The  day  following  our  installation  at  Dali,  I  visited 
the  spot  where  the  peasant,  Hadji  Jorghi,  had  found  the 
sculptured  remains  of  which  I  have  spoken,  and  I  per- 
ceived that  he  had  merely  extracted  them  from  a  mound 
of  debris,  accumulated  by  former  excavations,  and  that 
nothing  more  was  to  be  found  there.  I  then  rode  on, 
and  inspected  an  ancient  tomb,  opened  a  year  before  by 
some  of  the  villagers  in  search  of  building  stones. 
They  had  extracted  from  it  some  little  terra-cotta  vases, 
which  they  had  given  their  children  to  play  with,  leav- 
ing within  the  tomb  two  others  of  considerable  size,  lest 
their  removal  should  come  to  the  knowledge  of  the 
Cadi,  and  they  be  imprisoned  as  a  punishment.  As  I 
wished  to  see  these  vases,  I  had  the  earth  removed  a 
second  time,  which  was  easily  done,  the  tomb  being  on 
the  slope  of  a  low  hill,  and  only  three  feet  four  inches 


CHAP.  II.]     FIRMAN  TO  EXCAVATE  AT  DALI  iIDALIUM).        65 

deep.  I  entered  it,  and  found  two  large  vases,  of  an 
archaic  form,  such  as  I  had  not  seen  before.  I  was 
assured  that  this  tomb  when 
discovered  was  filled  to  the  top 
with  earth.  The  former  position 
of  these  vases  I  was  unable  to 
ascertain,  as  they  had  been  pre- 
viously overturned  and  displaced. 
After  two  weeks  spent  in  care- 
fully surveying  in  every  direction 
the  fields  surrounding  Dali,  I 
became  thoroughly  convinced 
that  an  extensive  necropolis  lay 

On    the    SOUth    and    WeSt    Of    it,    prO-  Terra-cotta  Vase.     From  Dali. 

Ht.  3  feet  2  inches. 

bably  the  ancient  burying-ground 

of  Idalium,  the  tombs, of  which  had  never  before  been 
disturbed.  I  therefore  leased  about  thirty  acres  of  this 
land,  and  in  these  arrangements  was  greatly  assisted  by 
Mr.  Cosma,  a  notable  of  the  place,  and  for  many  years 
dragoman  of  the  Dutch  Consulate  in  Cyprus.  I  then 
addressed  myself  to  our  Minister,  the  Hon.  Edward 
Joy  Morris,  at  Constantinople,  explaining  to  him  my 
belief  in  an  important  discovery,  and  the  desire  I  had 
of  thoroughly  investigating  it.  He  kindly  used  the 
great  influence  he  possessed  with  the  Porte,  and  ob- 
tained for  me  the  necessary  firman  authorising  me  to 
pursue  my  archaeological  researches  in  the  island,  and 
this  he  had  renewed  at  the  expiration  of  each  year  as 
long  as  he  remained  at  Constantinople. 

It  has  been  my  good  fortune,  during  the  eleven  years 
of  my  consular  residence  in  Cyprus,  to  meet,  in  our 
representatives  at  the  Porte,  gentlemen  of  high  culture 
and  classical  education,  who  understood  and  appre- 
ciated my  work,  and  most  cheerfully  lent  me  all  their 
moral  and  official  support,  without  which  my  explo- 
rations could  never  have  been  so  extensive  nor  so 


fifi  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.    II. 

successful.  To  my  excellent  friend,  the  Hon.  George 
H.  Boker,  I  have  in  a  special  manner  to  render 
my  thanks  for  the  many  favours  I  received  from  him 
while  he  was  American  Minister  at  Constantinople. 
More  than  once,  as  he  jocularly  wrote  me,  he  was 
obliged  to  "  pinch  the  tail  of  the  American  eagle,"  in 
order  to  force  the  Turks  to  do  what  I  required.  Once, 
in  sending  me  a  renewal  of  my  firman,  and  being  aware 
of  the  extent  of  my  excavations,  he  wrote  me  as  follows: 
— "  I  see,  dear  General,  that  you  intend  sinking  the 
island  one  of  these  days,  with  all  the  holes  you  are 
boring  everywhere  ;  pray,  before  doing  so,  save,  at 
least,  the  archives  of  the  American  Consulate." 

I  commenced  my  explorations  in  the  field  which  con- 
tained the  tomb  before  referred  to.  This  field  sloped 
gently  towards  the  village  from  a  mastoid  or  breast- 
shaped  hill,  upon  which,  years  ago,  was  found  a  bronze 
tablet  engraved  on  both  sides  with  Cypriote  characters. 
This  monument,  of  very  great  importance  to  philology, 
was  purchased  by  the  Duke  de  Luynes,  and  bequeathed 
by  him  to  the  Bibliotheque  Nationale  of  Paris. 

The  field  I  mention  is  situated  some  two  hundred 
yards  west  of  Dali.  The  depth  of  the  tombs  averaged 


from  5  to  8  feet  only  ;  and  they  were  all  of  one  shape, 
that  is,  a  hemispherical  cavity  cut  horizontally  in  the 
earth,  and  measuring  about  S  feet  in  diameter.  Mois- 
tened clay  mixed  with  triturated  straw  was  used  to 
consolidate  the  walls  and  roof  of  the  cavitv,  so  as  to 
keep  the  earth  from  falling  in.  A  platform  made  of 


CHAP.  II.] 


TOMBS   AT    DALI    (IDALIUM). 


67 


sun-dried  bricks,  i|-  foot  high,  was  then  built  around 
its  inner  base.  The  width  in  no  case  exceeded  the 
height.  Upon  the  platform  the  dead  were  laid,  with 
the  head  always  towards  the  entrance.  These  oven- 
shaped  tombs  were  made  to  contain  in  most  cases 
three  bodies,  yet  in  many  of  them  the  remains  of  two 


Inside  of  a.  Tomb,  showing  the  position  of  the  Bodies  and  Sepulchral  Vases. 

only  were  remarked,  one  on  the  right  and  the  other 
on  the  left  of  the  doorway.  When  the  latter  was  the 
case,  the  funeral  vases  and  other  mortuary  objects 
composing  the  furniture  of  the  tomb,  were  invariably 
found  placed  upon  the  unoccupied  portion  of  the  plat- 
form which  faced  the  door  ;  but  when  the  three  spaces 
were  occupied,  the  objects  were  deposited  on  the  ground 
towards  the  head  of  each  body.  In  some  few  instances 
a  reversed  earthenware  plate  was  found  placed  under 
the  head,  serving  as  a  pillow  to  the  dead.  As  may 
readily  be  conceived,  tombs,, such  as  these,  made  of 
nothing  but  earth,  were  not  very  substantial,  and  in 
many  instances  were  found  caved  in,  with  all  the  con- 


68 


CYPRUS. 


[CHAP.   II. 


tents  oroken.  Yet  a  very  large  number  remained 
intact,  though  all  the  tombs  were  filled  to  within  a  few 
inches  of  their  roof  with  fine  earth  which  had  perco- 
lated through  their  porous  walls.  To  this  earth  is  due 
the  wonderful  preservation  of  the  vases,  because  having 
filtered  gradually  through,  it  filled  and  surrounded, 
little  by  little,  the  mortuary  objects  within ;  so  that, 
after  many  years,  the  contents  of  these  tombs  became, 
as  it  were,  tightly  packed  up  and  preserved  in  almost 
as  perfect  a  condition  as,  when  they  were  first  interred. 

At  the  end  of  the  summer  I  had  opened  several 
hundred  tombs  ;  they  were  all  of  the  same  character, 
and,  in  my  opinion,  Phoenician.  I  observed  often,  that 
the  farther  we  advanced  towards  the  hill,  the  deeper 
lay  the  tombs  ;  consequently  the  slope  could  not  have 
existed  when  this  field  was  used  as  a  burying  ground. 
Up  to  this  time,  I  had  found  nothing  which  seemed  to 

me     to    be    purely     Greek. 

f^L--       :7^S=S=::::::^:^  The  vases,  of  every  variety 

of  form,  were  of  a  pale 
cream  colour,  ornamented 
generally  with  concentric 
circles  and  other  geome- 
tric designs,  painted  in  a 
brownish  colour,  probably 
made  with  "terra  d' umber," 
which  is  found  in  great 
abundance  in  Cyprus;  this 
colour  resisted  even  the 

effect  of  muriatic  acid  diluted  in  water,  thus  showing 
that  the  colour  had  been  applied  before  the  vessel  was 
baked. 

One  morning,  while  the  work  was  progressing,  in- 
stead of  finding  the  tombs  at  the  depth  of  nine  and 
ten  feet,  as  before,  we  met  them  at  about  $\  feet 
onlv  ;  and,  to  my  surprise,  though  their  shape  and 


PLATE     I. 


GOLD    ORNAMENTS    FROM    DAI. I. 


PLATE 


VASES    FROM    UAL1. 


PLATE     III. 


,. 


GLASS     VASKS     FROM     DAIJ. 


CHAP.  II.] 


TOMBS   AT   DALI    (IDALIUM). 


size  did  not  vary  from  the  others,  their  contents  were 
entirely  different.  There  were  no  more  earthenware 

J 

vases,  but  glass  objects  with  a  beautiful  iridescence, 
the  result  of  their  decay.  Some  were  in  the  form  of 
amphorae,  lecythi,  plates,  bowls,  rings,  bracelets,  amulets, 
beads,  etc. 

There  were  also  a  few  gold  ornaments,  such  as 
earrings  in  the  form  of  a  segment  of  fruit  (?)  or  of  a 
crescent  shape,  and  leaves  of  gold  which  had  served  as 
mortuary  diadems.  In  a  few  instances,  fragments  of 


these  diadems  were  found  still  adhering  to  the  broken 
skulls. 

There  was  always  one,  and  sometimes  several  terra- 
cotta lamps.  Some  of  them  without  doubt  were  im- 
ported from  Italy  ;  as  not  only  was  the  clay  of  which 
they  were  made  similar  to  that  of  lamps  found  in 
Rome,  but  some  of  them  had  the  potter's  name,  FAVSTI, 
stamped  on  the  back;  the  greatest  number,  however, 
were  made  in  the  island,  and  probably  in  Dali  ;  on 
some  of  these  occurred  Greek  names,  evidently  scratched 
in  after  the  lamps  had  been  baked. 

For  more  than  three  weeks  I  continued  to  find  only 
this  sort  of  tomb,  with  a  repetition  of  the  same  mortuary 
objects,  clearly  indicating  the  Grseco-Roman  period. 


76 


CYPRUS. 


[CHAP.   II. 


This  change  was  at  first  incomprehensible.  It  was 
true  that  Idalium  possessed,  at  a  later  period,  a  mixed 
population,  and  the  evidence  of  the  burying-grounds  cf 
two  different  races  was  very  apparent,  yet  their  close 
proximity  was  unusual,  and  for  some  time  unaccountable 
to  me  ;  but  studying  the  vases,  the  terra-cotta  idols, 
etc.,  in  the  former  tombs,  and  comparing  them  with  the 
objects  of  the  latter,  I  became  convinced  that  the  two 
necropoles  had  not  and  could  not  have  been  in  use  at 
the  same  period.  The  terra-cotta  vases  and  the  little 
images  of  Venus,  some  of  which  are  like  those  seen 


Terra-cotta  Lamps.     Roman  Period. 


upon  Babylonian  cylinders,  representing  Mylitta,  were 
undoubtedly  many  centuries  earlier  than  the  glassware 
found  in  the  other  tombs.  It  occurred  to  me  that  as 
the  slope  was  evidently  posterior  to  the  Phoenician 
tombs,  I  might  perhaps  find  the  continuation  of  them 
beneath  the  others,  and  I  was  not  mistaken.  We 
retraced  our  steps  to  the  spot  where  the  first  Graeco- 
Roman  tombs  had  appeared,  and  at  2^  feet  beneath 
them  we  found  the  uninterrupted  line  of  the  Pruunician 
tombs. 

Another  difficulty  now  presented  itself;  the  doors  of 
the  tombs  below  very  seldom  coincided  with  those 
above,  and  often  faced  in  the  opposite  direction.  Much 
time  and  labour  was  therefore  lost  in  demolishing  the 
tomb  above,  in  order  to  get  at  the  one  beneath.  The 


CHAP.   II.]     CONTENTS  OF  TOMBS  AT  DALI   (IDALIUM).          77 

Phoenician  tombs  were  found  less  filled  up  with  earth, 
and  in  some  instances  the  position  in  which  the  bodies 
had  lain  upon  the  platform  was  ascertained. 

In  one   of  these   tombs    I    discovered   the   remains  of 
three  skeletons,  consisting  of  the  skulls  and  thigh-bones. 


I'nwl  with  Fis/ures  of  Women. 


Two  of  the  skulls  were  in  good  preservation,  but  in 
removing  them  one  was  crushed  through  the  careless- 
ness of  the  workmen  who  held  it.  The  other  is  now 
in  the  Royal  Academy  of  Medicine  in  Turin,  with 
several  more  which  I  presented  to  that  institution. 
The  following  objects  were  found  standing  on  the 


78  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  II. 

ground  and  near  the  platforms  :  two  large  vases 
(2  feet  6  inches  high),  ornamented  with  concentric 
circles  and  an  undulating  line  round  the  neck ;  ten 
small  vases,  mostly  with  this  same  form  of  ornament, 
but  made  of  a  very  fine  red  clay  ;  four  terra-cotta  whorls 
without  any  trace  of  design. 

In  the  centre  of  this  tomb  I  remarked  for  the  first 
time  a  small  quadrangular  cavity  excavated  in  the  floor 
opposite  the  doorway.  This  cavity  was  covered  by  a 
sun-dried  brick,  on  removing  which  the  following 
objects  were  found  within  :— 

A  hatchet  and  a  spear-head  in  copper,  and  a  circular 
copper  bowl  5^  inches  in  diameter,  and  2\  inches  high. 
This  bowl  has  previously  been  engraved  and  described 
by  Mr.  Georges  Colonna  Ceccaldi  (Revue  Archeolo- 
gique,  xxiv.,  1872,  pi.  24),  who  thinks  that  the  enthroned 
goddess  before  whom  the  dance  is  proceeding  may  be 
Isis.  He  is  led  to  this  conclusion  chiefly  by  the  lotus 
flower  which  she  holds  in  her  hand.  The  dancers 
appear  to  be  all  women,  not  alternately  men  and 
women,  as  in  the  u  chorus  "  on  the  shield  of  Achilles 
(Iliad,  xviii.,  593  fol.),  which  Hephaestus  imitated  from 
the  "chorus"  made  by  Daedalus  for  Ariadne  in  Crete, 
or  in  the  archaic  representation  of  a  dance  on  the 
celebrated  Francois  vase  (Monumenti  dell'  Inst.  Arch. 
Rom.  iv.).  It  is  therefore  probable  that  the  goddess 
here  represented  was  one  the  conduct  of  whose  rites 
and  ceremonies  devolved  upon  women.  Cyprus  en- 
joyed a  high  reputation  from  very  early  times  for 
musical  skill  both  with  the  flute  and  the  lyre,  and  there 
can  be  little  doubt  that  this  skill  had  been  attained 
and  developed  chieflv  through  religious  practice  such 
as  that  illustrated  in  this  bowl.  The  vases  represented 
on  a  table  in  advance  of  the  dancers  are  ornamented 
with  the  designs  peculiar  to  the  very  archaic  pottery 
found  at  Idalium  and  elsewhere,  not  only  in  Cyprus, 


CHAP.   II.]  CHARGE    OF    DESECRATION.  79 

but  in  other  Greek  islands,  in  the  mainland  of  Greece 
and  in  Italy.  The  bronze  bowl  may  therefore  be  taken 
as  contemporary  with  this  form  of  decoration  in  pottery. 
It  is  to  be  noticed  that  while  the  figures  of  the  dancers, 
the  musicians,  and  the  goddess  are  rudely  rendered,  the 
purely  decorative  patterns  are  produced  with  the  skill 
of  a  workman  well  accustomed  to  them.  This  decora- 
tive faculty  is  also  shown  in  the  disposition  and 
grouping  of  the  figures,  and  it  may  here  be  remarked 
that  this  bowl  has  altogether  less  of  a  Phoenician  and 
more  of  an  early  Greek  character  than  the  Phoenician 
bowls  of  silver,  silver-gilt,  and  gold  found  elsewhere  in 
Cyprus,  to  which  there  will  afterwards  be  occasion  to 
refer  more  particularly. 

Thus  far  I  had  no  annoyance  from  the  Turkish 
authorities  at  Dali,  though  I  was  aware  that  the 
Hodja  and  Cadi  were  secretly  opposed  to  my  diggings. 
The  latter  wrote  to  the  Governor-General  of  the  island 
that  if  this  sort  of  work  was  not  soon  stopped,  all  the 
fields  about  the  village  would  be  made  barren,  and  the 
Ottoman  Government  would  get  no  more  revenue  from 
them.  The  Hodja  in  his  mosque  said  to  his  brethren 
that  no  Mussulman  who  should  work  for  me  would  be 
rewarded  in  the  other  world  with  the  ever  beautiful 
houris.  But  this  did  not  trouble  me  in  the  least,  and 
had  only  the  effect  of  keeping  the  Mussulmans  from  the 
diggings  for  a  short  time.  I  knew  that  the  Governor- 
General,  Said  Pasha,  had  strongly  recommended  the 
Cadi  of  Dali  not  to  interfere  with  my  excavations, 
saying,  he  did  not  care  to  be  involved  in  any  difficulty 
with  me. 

In  addition  to  the  large  number  of  men  whom  I  daily 
employed  at  regular  wages,  others  dug  without  permis- 
sion from  me,  on  their  kismet  as  they  termed  it.  One  day 
as  a  party  of  these  independent  diggers  were  returning 
from  their  work,  carrying  two  baskets  and  a  large  vase, 


8o  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  II. 

they  were  encountered  by  the  Cadi,  who,  in  company 
with  the  Hodja,  was  coming  from  the  mosque,  the 
day  being  Friday.  It  happened  that  these  diggers  were 
all  Greeks.  The  Cadi  stopped  them,  and  enquired 
what  they  had  in  those  baskets  ?  One  of  them  replied, 
"  Human  skulls  for  the  American  Consul."  "  Human 
skulls  !  Allah  !  "  ejaculated  the  Hodja.  The  Cadi  was 
horrified.  The  men  being  unable  to  prove  that  they 
were  regularly  in  my  service  were  immediately  arrested, 
and  the  skulls  were  seized  and  sent  to  the  Governor- 
General,  as  a  proof  that  I  was  encouraging  by  rewards 
of  money  the  Christian  population  of  Dali  to  desecrate 
the  sepulchres  of  the  faithful  !  I  knew  nothing  of  what 
had  happened,  and  the  next  day  was  surprised  to  hear 
that  Said  Pasha  had  arrived  in  Dali,  and  wished  to  see 
me  at  once.  I  sent  word  to  the  Pasha  that  I  was  slightly 
indisposed,  but  that  if  his  Excellency  had  any  com- 
munications to  make  to  me,  I  should  be  happy  to 
receive  him  at  my  house.  He  seemed  to  have  antici- 
pated my  answer,  as  my  messenger  found  him  ready  to 
mount  a  steed  in  waiting  at  the  door.  Twenty  minutes 
later  my  cavass  announced  the  coming  of  the  Governor- 
General,  whom  I  soon  perceived  with  his  usual  nume- 
rous retinue,  accompanied  by  the  old  Cadi  and  Hodja, 
winding  their  way  up  one  of  the  alleys  towards  my 
drawing-room  a  I  fresco. 

I  was  not  long  in  learning  the  object  of  his  visit  to 
me,  and  heartily  laughed  at  the  mistake  (real  or 
assumed)  made  by  his  co-religionists.  Said  Pasha, 
being  an  intelligent  Turk,  after  hearing  from  me  that 
these  skulls  were  taken  from  ancient  burying-grounds 
of  people  buried  long  before  the  Turkish  nation  and 
Mohammed  existed,  joined  heartily  in  my  laugh,  and 
took  leave  of  me  in  a  very  cordial  manner.  I  after- 
wards heard  that  he  severely  reprimanded  the  Cadi 
and  the  Hodja  for  having  endeavoured  to  create  a 


CHAP.   II.]  TOMBS    AT    DALI     (IDALIUM).  8l 

disturbance   which    might  have   had   the  worst   of  con- 
sequences. 

The  intriguing  old  Cadi,  on  my  recommendation, 
was  immediately  removed  from  Dah,  and  a  small  sum 
of  money  which  I  gave  to  the  Hodja  for  the  repairs  of 
his  mosque,  made  him  my  fast  friend  for  ever. 


CHAPTER    III. 

Several  Consuls  obtain  Finnans  to  excavate. — Lively  competition. — 
Mr.  Lang  discovers  statues  and  bilingual  inscription. —  Patriarchal 
custom  among  Cypriote  peasants.  —  Hadji  Jorghi. — His  imprison- 
ment and  sad  death. — Rock-cut  tombs  at  Alambra,  with  their 
peculiar  pottery. — Clay  figures  believed  by  some  to  be  children's 
toys. — Hills  of  Ambelliri.  —  Famous  bronxe  tablet  of  the  Duke  de 
Luynes. — Village  of  Potamia.  —  Discovery  of  temple  and  tombs. — 
Several  small  cemeteries  discovered  east  of  Dali. 

THESE  discoveries  very  soon  attracted  the  serious 
attention  of  some  of  my  colleagues  at  Larnaca,  who 
now  began  to  purchase  antiquities  of  the  "  independent 
diggers "  at  a  very  high  valuation,  and  thus  a  lively 
competition  was  created.  The  French  Consul,  Mr.  T. 
Colonna  Ceccaldi,  also  applied  for  and  obtained  a 
firman  to  excavate,  but  the  most  serious  competitor  I 
had  was  Mr.  Lang,  the  director  or  manager  of  a  branch 
of  the  Imperial  Ottoman  Bank  at  Larnaca,  who  was 
afterwards  appointed  British  Consul  for  Cyprus.  The 
inhabitants  of  Cyprus  owe  much  to  Mr.  Lang  tor  the 
establishment  of  this  bank  in  the  island,  of  which  he 
was  the  sole  promoter,  and  which  proved,  as  long  as  he 
remained  the  director  of  it.  a  great  success.  It  was 
through  Mr.  Lang  also  that  the  aqueduct,  built  by  an 
exiled  Pacha,  was  repaired,  and  the  water  led  in  pipes 
through  the  city,  so  that  all  who  wished  might  avail 
themselves  ol  an  abundant  supply  of  pure  water.  Mr. 
Lan</  had  the  rare  talent  of  making  friends  of  all  with 

O  O 


CHAI-.  III.]  HADJI    JORGHI.  83 

whom  he  came  in  contact,  and  when  he  subsequently 
left  the  island  his  loss  was  universally  regretted.  The 
villagers  of  Dali  and  of  the  neighbouring  towns  like- 
wise became  infected  with  the  fever  of  digging,  and  both 
Greeks  and  Turks  began  to  work  in  the  employ  of  either 
one  or  other  of  my  colleagues.  This,  however,  did 
not  last  very  long.  My  friend  Ceccaldi  was  summoned 
soon  afterwards  to  Constantinople,  to  assist  the  French 
Ambassador  in  receiving  the  Empress  Eugenie,  and  he 
never  returned  to  Cyprus.  Air.  Lang,  in  spite  of  his 
banking  occupations,  still  continued  to  interest  himself 
in  excavations,  and  was  rewarded  at  last  by  the  dis- 
covery of  a  temple,  among  the  debris  of  which,  besides 
other  important  objects,  he  discovered  the  precious 
bilingual  inscription,  in  Phoenician  and  Cypriote  cha- 
racters, to  which  modern  philologists  have  been  in- 
debted for  the  decipherment  of  the  Cypriote  dialect. 
By  the  end  of  my  third  year's  explorations  at  Dali,  I 
had  opened  some  ten  thousand  tombs,  and  had  col- 
lected from  them  an  immense  number  of  vases  and 
other  sepulchral  objects  of  much  historical  interest/" 

At  harvest-time  in  Cyprus  it  is  difficult  to  obtain 
manual  labour  for  other  than  agricultural  purposes, 
and  consequently  during  this  time  my  diggings  were 
kept  up  on  a  small  scale  only.  Among  the  peasants  ot 
Dali  there  is  a  patriarchal  custom  which  I  must  not 
omit  to  mention,  and  which  I  found  widely  spread  else- 
where in  the  island.  It  is  this  :  when  a  man  becomes 


*  I  have  seen  stated  in  a  paper  read  before  the  Society  of  Anti- 
quaries in  London,  that  west  of  Dali  there  were  several  burying-grounds 
instead  of  only  one.  Mr.  Sandwith,  who  asserts  this,  lias  never  under- 
taken any  extensive  excavations  there  or  elsewhere  in  Cyprus,  and  it  is 
quite  natural  that  he  should  have  fallen  into  such  a  mistake.  I  dug 
there  from  1867  till  the  end  of  1875  at  different  intervals,  and  ascer- 
tained that  the  fields  west  of  Dali.  though  now  and  then  there  are  a  few- 
yards  without  tombs,  represent  only  one  extensive  burying-ground. 


84  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  III. 

too  old  to  work  in  the  fields,  and  has  sons  able  to 
replace  him,  he  voluntarily  despoils  himself,  sometimes 
of  his  whole  fortune,  in  order  to  endow  them.  I  know 
personally  a  respectable  old  man  who  has  four  sons 
and  two  daughters,  to  the  latter  of  whom  he  gave  each 
a  small  house  and  garden  on  their  marriage  day,  and 
the  rest  of  his  property  he  divided  equally  among  his 
sons,  retaining  absolutely  nothing  for  himself.  He 
now  lives  upon  the  bounty  of  one  of  these  sons.  It  not 
unfrequently  happens,  however,  that  the  son  ill-treats 
his  aged  father,  who,  after  having  passed  the  greater 
part  of  his  life  in  easy  circumstances,  becomes  in  his 
latter  days  a  beggar.  A  painful  instance  of  this  was 
that  of  old  Hadji  Jorghi,  the  pioneer  digger  of  Dali, 
who  had  in  like  manner  dispossessed  himself  of  all 
his  property  in  favour  of  his  sons,  and  supported 
himself  by  digging.  To  add  to  this  he  had  also,  in  an 
evil  hour,  become  guarantee  in  a  money  transaction  for 
some  of  his  relatives  ;  according  to  Turkish  law,  if  the 
debtor  fails  to  pay,  the  guarantor  is  compelled  either  to 
pay  or  to  be  thrown  into  prison,  and  this  fate  befell  the 
impoverished  Hadji  Jorghi.  He  was  arrested  by  the 
Cadi  of  Dali,  and,  old  as  he  was,  marched  on  foot  to 
Larnaca,  some  fifteen  miles  distant,  and  there  kept 
confined  for  nearly  two  months.  He  languished  in 
prison  uncarecl  for  until  the  government  medical  officer 
declared  that  if  longer  detained  he  would  die.  The 
poor  old  man,  released  from  confinement,  returned 
slowly  to  his  native  village.  I  chanced  to  meet  him 
on  the  road,  seated  upon  a  stone,  fatigued,  hungry,  and 
broken  down  by  grief.  I  felt  greatly  moved  by  his 
distress  ;  but  money  could  not  have  relieved  him.  On 
the  clay  after  his  arrival  in  Dali  he  got  up  and  slowly 
tottered  towards  his  favourite  tombs  to  pay  them  a 
visit  ;  not  returning  to  his  home  that  evening  a  search 
was  made  for  him  the  next  dav  ;  and  he  was  found 


PLATE    IV. 


BRONZES    FROM    DALI 


CHAP.  III.]  HADJI    JORGHI.  87 

crouched  in  one  of  the  excavated  tombs,  his  knees 
drawn  up,  his  eyes  fixed,  a  pipe  in  his  mouth,  from 
which  no  smoke  issued  nor  \vould  ever  be  made  to 
issue  again  by  those  pale  cold  lips.  Poor  Hadji  Jorghi 
had  gone  to  join  that  vast  procession  whose  tombs  he 
had  helped  to  explore,  far  beyond  the  reach  of  Turkish 
injustice  or  filial  ingratitude. 

Twenty  minutes'  ride  wrest  of  Dali  lies  the  small 
village  of  Alambra,  situated  on  the  rocky  slope  of  a  hill 
which  commands  a  beautiful  view  of  the  plain  below. 
In  former  rambles  I  had  remarked  a  curiously-shaped 
mound  facing  the  village,  and  separated  from  it  only  by 
a  craggy  ravine  worn  by  a  winter  torrent.  Making 
inquiries  of  the  peasantry  concerning  this  mound,  I 
learned  that  some  twenty  years  ago  a  tomb  cut  deeply 
into  the  rock  had  accidentally  been  opened  there  ;  ol 
course,  the  usual  fable  was  appended  of  the  finding  of 
much  gold  therein.  I  hired  some  labourers,  and  started 
to  explore  the  place.  It  proved  to  be  a  mass  of  rotten 
limestone,  the  portion  most  exposed  to  the  heat  of 
the  sun  being  cracked  and  crumbling  into  dust.  I 
soon  ascertained  that  its  slopes  contained  a  number  ol 
tombs,  similar  in  size  and  form  to  those  of  Dali,  except 
that  they  were  cut  in  the  rock. 

The  top  of  the  hill  was  strewn  with  stones  and 
broken  pottery,  clearly  indicating  the  site  of  a  large 
building.  I  discovered  eighty-two  tombs  there,  which 
I  opened  at  different  times  between  the  years  1868  and 
1874.  These  tombs  interested  me  very  much,  as  I 
consider  them  among  the  most  ancient  of  Cyprus 
They  possessed  also  this  point  of  importance,  that 
besides  a  peculiar  class  of  terra-cotta  vases,  which  I 
have  never  met  with  in  my  explorations  anywhere  else, 
each  of  them  contained  a  copper  object  and  one  of  those 
little  earthenware  figurines,  which  some  distinguished 
archaeologists  think  are  children's  toys,  an  opinion  in 


PLATE   V. 


PLATE    VI. 


TKRKA-COTTA    FK.URES. 


PLATE    VII. 


VASES    FROM    ALAMBRA. 


CHAP.  III.]  TOMBS    AT    ALAMHRA.  93 

wnich  I  cannot  concur.  The  objects  in  copper  were 
spear-heads,  daggers,  knives,  hatchets,  tools,  mirrors, 
needles,  and  circular  bowls. 

The  statuettes  were  rudely  made  images  of  the 
Cyprian  Venus,  in  the  earliest  style  of  art,  horsemen, 
warriors  with  shields,  and  chariots  containing  men  and 
women.  The  tombs  which  contained  a  terra-cotta 
horseman,  invariably  contained  one  or  two  spear-heads 
from  seven  to  ten  inches  in  length ;  those  having  a 
knife,  dagger,  or  hatchet,  were  accompanied  by  the 
figure  of  a  foot  soldier  with  a  shield,  the  right  arm 
being  elevated  as  in  the  act  of  throwing  a  javelin. 
The  tombs  having  chariots  with  movable  wheels  but  no 
horses,  contained  artisans'  tools  and  bowls  ;  while  in 
those  where  a  little  image  of  Venus  appeared,  were 
found  always  a  mirror  and  long  hair-pins  and  needles. 

I  was  personally  present  at  the  opening  of  all  these 
tombs,  and  can  positively  state,  that  in  no  instance 
were  the  remains  of  children  found  in  any  of  them.  On 
the  contrary,  skulls  \vere  exhumed  from  them  rather 
larger  than  those  of  Dali,  and  believed  to  have  belonged 
to  another  race.  Such  was  the  opinion  of  scientific 
specialists  who  examined  them,  and  it  is  also  that  of 
the  director  of  the  Anthropological  Museum  at  Turin, 
where  these  skulls  now  are.  My  argument  therefore  is 
that  these  figurines  were  not  toys,  but  were  placed 
inside  the  tomb  to  indicate  the  profession  or  the  sex  of 
the  person  buried.  These  rock-cut  tombs,  though  as 
large  as  those  at  Dali,  contained  each  only  one  body. 

This  mound,  perfectly  adapted  by  its  nature  to  the 
kind  of  defensive  warfare  existing  in  ancient  times,  very 
probably  was  crowned  by  a  fort  or  castle,  garrisoned 
by  foreign  troops,  possibly  in  the  pay  of  the  King  of 
Idalium  ;  as  here,  very  likely,  \vas  the  frontier  dividing 
this  small  kingdom  from  its  neighbour.  Supposing  this 
conjecture  to  be  correct,  the  tombs  on  the  slopes  could 


Q4  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  III. 

be  none  other  than  the  tombs  of  these  soldiers  and  ot 
the  persons  accompanying  them.  The  warlike  instru- 
ments found  with  an  appropriate  figurine  would  denote 
the  tomb  either  of  a  cavalryman  or  of  a  foot  soldier. 
The  lance  suits  the  profession  of  the  horseman,  the 
knife  and  hatchet  (battle-axe)  that  of  the  foot  soldier, 
while  the  articles  of  feminine  use,  accompanied  with 
the  statuette  of  Venus,  would  indicate  the  tomb  of  a 
woman.  The  chariots  and  artisans'  tools  would  be- 
speak the  charioteers  and  other  followers  of  a  military 
camp.  In  one  of  these  tombs  I  found  the  following 
terra-cotta  objects,  placed  in  the  order  of  a  procession. 
The  first  figure  is  that  of  a  horseman  carrying  two  large 
jars,  probably  containing  wine ;  he  is  followed  by  a 
donkey  with  panniers  ;  then  follows  a  chariot  with 
a  player  on  the  double-pipe,  and  two  men  or  women 
singing;  the  chariot  that  comes  next  contains  a  man 
with  something  looking  like  a  large  sword  ;  then  fol- 
lows a  chariot  with  a  woman  reclining  on  a  pillow  ;  the 
last  chariot  has  a  man,  probably  representing  the  chief 
personage  of  the  procession. 

The  vases  found  in  these  tombs  were  of  two  kinds. 
One  was  of  a  coarse  reddish  clay,  incompletely  baked, 
and  in  the  form  of  large  bowls,  some  of  which  measured 
2\  feet  in  diameter,  and  had  holes  for  suspension,  near 
the  rim  ;  and  some  were  in  the  form  of  ladles  ol  differ- 
ent sizes,  with  cuts  on  the  handles  evidently  numerical, 
also  a  few  jugs  with  one  handle. 

The  other  vases  were  of  a  bright  red  or  black 
varnished  ware  of  globular  form,  like  an  aryballos,  but 
with  long  narrow  necks,  a  few  of  them  having  three 
legs.  With  them  was  found  a  large  number  of  terra- 
cotta whorls  of  the  same  kind  of  ware.  The  decoration 
on  these  vases  consists  of  zigzag  lines  and  other  simple 
geometric  patterns  incised  deeply  in  the  clay,  and 
afterwards  filled  in  with  a  white  substance,  probably 


CHAP.  III.]  TOMBS    AT    ALAMBRA.  95 

plaster.  Two  fragments  of  this  ware  were  found  by 
Mr.  Schliemann  in  his  Trojan  excavations  (engraved, 
"  Troy  and  its  Remains,"  p.  135),  and  there  seems  to  be 
little  doubt  of  the  great  antiquity  of  this  class  of  pottery. 
An  entire  vase  of  the  same  kind  is  engraved  in  Mr. 
Lang's  paper  (Transactions  Roy.  Soc.  Lit.  xi.,  pt.  i, 
New  Series,  p.  35).  Another  fine  specimen  exists  in 
the  British  Museum,  where  also  in  the  collection  of 


Terra-cotta  Vase.     From  Alambra.      Height,  2  feet  4  inches. 

Cyprus  pottery  are  several  small  vases  with  incised 
geometric  patterns  and  of  the  same  class,  but  some  of 
them  do  not  appear  to  be  glazed. 

About  a  dozen  of  these  vases  were  purloined  by  my 
workmen,  and  found  their  way  to  European  dealers  in 
antiquities,  and  thence  to  several  of  the  museums  on 
the  Continent.  The  rest,  several  hundred  in  number, 
are  all  in  the  Metropolitan  Museum  of  Art  in  New 
York,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  which  went  to  the 
bottom  of  the  sea  near  Beirut  in  company  with  a  rich 
collection  of  gold  and  silver  coins,  cylinders,  and  some 
sixty  cases  of  other  antiquities  which  I  had  shipped  for 


96 


CYPRUS. 


[CHAP.  III. 


New  York  on   board   an   ill-fated  Austrian  ship,  which 
took  fire  and  sunk  50  miles  off  the  coast  of  Syria. 

Although  I  had  been  more  particularly  engaged  in 
the  exploration  of  the  tombs  of  Idalium,  yet  I  also  made 
numerous  researches  for  the  site  of  its  Temple  of  Venus, 
but  utterly  failed  to  discover  any  traces  of  it,  either  upon 
or  beneath  the  surface  of  the  soil.  I  examined  the  whole 
plain  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  as  well  as  the  first  range 
of  hills  encircling  Dali,  but  especially  the  two  breast- 


shaped  hills  west  of  the  village,'"  between  which  lay 
the  road  leading  to  Alambra  and  other  villages.  I 
believe  that  these  two  hills  had  in  remote  times  formed 
one.  They  are  in  a  line,  and  so  very  near  each  other 
that  the  gap  between  them  forms  a  kind  of  gateway, 
leading  from  the  plain  of  Dali  to  the  valley  west  of  it, 
which  the  natives  call  "  Paradision."  If  this  communi- 
cation was  opened  by  the  Greek  population  of  Idalium, 
as  is  my  belief,  it  would  satisfactorily  explain  the  forma- 
tion of  the  artificial  slope  of  this  hill,  in  which  I  dis- 
covered the  Graeco- Roman  tombs  I  alluded  to  before. 


*   These  two  mounds  are  called  bv  the  inhabitants  of  Dali.  Ambelliri. 


CHAP.  III.]  TOMBS    NEAR    DALI.  97 

The  bronze  tablet  of  the  Duke  de  Luynes  was,  1 
am  told,  found  on  the  crest  of  the  hill  which  stands 
on  the  right  hand  of  the  traveller  going  from  Dali 
to  Alambra.  I  had  a  great  many  borings  made  at 
different  places,  both  on  the  top  and  the  slopes  of 
it,  but  invariably  met  the  solid  calcareous  rock  a 
few  feet  from  the  surface,  and  in  fact,  if  what  now 
appears  to  be  vegetable  earth  is  more  attentively 
examined,  it  will  be  found  to  be  nothing  else  than 
rotten  limestone  almost  pulverised,  and  this  accounts 
for  the  barren  appearance  of  the  hill.  How  the 
bronze  tablet  could  have  been  found  on  the  top  of  this 
eminence,  will  always  remain  to  me  an  inexplicable 
mystery. 

At  the  foot  of  the  other  hill,  Mr.  Lang  discovered,  as 
I  have  already  said,  the  ruins  of  a  Temple,  but  of  too 
small  dimensions  to  be  identified  in  my  opinion  as  the 
one  sung  of  by  ancient  poets.  On  the  summit  of  this 
hill  once  stood  a  quadrangular  edifice,  apparently  con- 
structed entirely  of  stone,  the  foundations  of  which 
reached  deeply  into  its  centre  ;  they  had  been  tho- 
roughly explored  and  laid  bare  by  former  excavations. 
There  are  still  visible  traces  of  a  paved  pathway  leading 
to  the  ruins  of  this  building.  From  its  commanding 
position  it  seems  to  have  been  a  castle  or  a  military  fort ; 
I  was  assured  by  the  natives  that  some  years  previous 
to  my  arrival  in  the  island,  they  extracted  from  these 
ruins  a  large  quantity  of  bronze  fragments  of  helmets, 
swords,  spear-heads,  etc.,  enough  to  make  a  cart-load. 
The  Turkish  authorities  at  Dali  took  possession  of  these 
objects,  and  forwarded  them  to  the  Governor-General 
of  the  island,  who  in  all  probability  sold  them  for  old 
metal  to  some  copper-smith  at  Nicosia.  With  the  melt- 
ing-pot they  would  soon  be  transformed  into  kettles 
and  casseroles.  I  was  unable  to  find  out  trom  the 
Turkish  commander  of  the  citadel  what  had  become  of 


CYPRUS. 


[CHAP.  III. 


them,  though  he  perfectly  remembered  their  arrival  in 
Nicosia. 

In   a   field   south   of  Dali,  and   twenty  minutes'  walk 
from   it,  I  discovered  several  stone  pedestals  and  frag- 
ments of  statues  at  a  depth  of  two  feet  from  the  surface. 
It  is  most  probable  that   a  temple  once  existed  on  that 
spot,  hut  I  was  unable  to  explore  the 
place,  as  the  Turkish  owner  of  it,  a 
certain  Mehemet  Effendi  Potamialick, 
declined  to  lease  me  the  field  for  that 
purpose,  or  to  grant  me  permission 
to  excavate.   In  its  immediate  vicinity 
there  is  a  road  leading  from  Dali  to 
a  little  cluster  of  huts  called  Pota- 
mia,"'' and  on  the  edge  of  this  road  I 
discovered  several  tombs  like  those  of 

Stone  Head  with  Wreath.  ^i  11  •       1       r  T  J     1  •  T^1j_ 

the  oldest  period  01  Idahum.  Doubt- 
less this  cemetery,  though  small,  extended  into  the  pro- 
perty of  Mehemet  Effendi,  but  for  the  reason  just  stated 
I  could  not  examine  or  ascertain  its  extent. 


*  Potamia  was  a  royal  residence  of  the  Lusignan  dynast}',  and 
inhabited  by  Catherine  Cornaro.  It  was  fortified,  and  \\hen  the 
Venetians  took  possession  of  the  island  it  was  dismantled  by  order 
of  the  Venetian  Senator,  and  Governor-General  of  the  Island,  Fran- 
cesco Prioli,  together  with  the  other  royal  castles  of  Saint  Hilarion. 
Buffavento,  Dio  d'Amore,  Cava,  and  Kantara.  The  Palace  of  Potamia 
now  belongs  to  three  notable  Turks.  In  returning  their  visit  I  was 
served  coffee  and  sweetmeat  as  is  the  custom  in  the  East,  and  to 
my  surprise  I  remarked  that  the  silver  tea-spoon  I  used  had  the  lion  of 
St.  Mark  and  a  royal  crown  engraved  upon  it.  I  asked  Mehemet 
Effendi  if  he  would  part  with  that  and  the  other  spoons  which  I  sup- 
posed he  possessed,  but  he  declined,  though  as  a  Turkish  compliment 
he  offered  me  as  a  pa-sent  the  spoon  I  had  used,  which  of  course  I 
declined.  1  had  heard  rumoured  that  in  digging  in  their  garden  these 
three  Turks  had  found  an  iron  coffer  with  gold  and  silver  objects. 
That  tea-spoon  might  have  belonged  to  the  treasure.  I  repeated  my 
visits  there  at  other  times,  but  the  tea-spoons  with  the  royal  crown  had 
disappeared. 


PLATE     VIII. 


VASF.S    IX     FORM    OF    ANIMALS      FROM     DALI. 


CHAP.  III. 


ARCHAIC     POTTERY. 


101 


On  the  eastern  side  of  the  river  Pedeus  I  discovered 
as  many  as  five  different  ancient  burying-grounds,  all 
containing  terra-cotta  vases  like  those  of  the  Phoenician 
Idalium,  to  which  town  they  appear  to  have  belonged, 
as  I  met  with  no  traces  of  foundations  of  buildings  or 
broken  pottery  or  such  other  indications  as  to  lead 
me  to  believe  that  there  had  been  ancient  habitations 
there. 

Farther  to  the  south-east  of  these  cemeteries  there  is 
a  curiously  shaped  mound  in  the  form  of  a  sugar-loaf, 
which  attracted  my  attention.  I  dug  there,  and  though 


on  its  summit  there  are  no  indications  of  buildings,  1 
discovered  on  its  slopes  several  tombs  deeply  excavated 
in  the  calcareous  rock,  and  made  to  contain  a  single 
body. 

In  one  of  them  I  found  two  bowls  of  a  green  glazed 
terra-cotta,  decorated  inside  with  Egyptian  representa- 
tions painted  in  black,  and  a  curiously  shaped  vase- 
representing  a  female  figure  with  movable  terra-cotta 
earrings  ;  the  stopper,  also  of  earthenware,  represented 
a  crown,  which,  when  placed  on  the  aperture  at  the 
top  of  the  head,  completes  the  figure.  The  figure  was 
seated  on  an  earthenware  chair.  This  curious  vase 
holds  a  quart  of  water.  The  other  tombs  contained 
vases  in  form  of  quadrupeds,  and  aquatic  birds,  some 
hiirhlv  ornamented  with  geometric  patterns,  also  round- 

o  <>  i 


IO2 


CYPRUS. 


[CHAP.  III. 


bottomed  vases  with  long  necks,  whorls  and  tripods  in 
serpentine  and  in  terra-cotta.  Some  of  these  vases  are 
identical  in  character  with  those  found  by  Dr.  Schliemann 
in  his  excavations  at  Hissarlik.  These  tombs  are  in  my 
opinion  among  the  oldest  found  at  Idalium. 


PLATE     IX. 


TKRKA-COTTA    VASES,     FROM     DAM. 


CHAPTER    IV. 

ATHIENO    (GOLGOI). 

Athieno  a  town  of  muleteers. — Identified  by  M.  de  Vogue  as  the  site 
of  Golgoi. — Sketch  of  Golgoi. — Cypriote  mode  of  travelling. — 
Unsuccessful  explorations  in  1867. — Discovery  of  a  necropolis 
east  of  Golgoi. — An  important  sarcophagus  and  other  sepulchral 
monuments  discovered  there. — Two  men  sent  to  dig  in  1870. — 
Aghios  Photios. — Discovery  of  colossal  head  and  other  sculptures. 
— Excitement  of  villagers. — Scene  «of  Confusion  at  nicrht. 


NOT  far  from  the  conical  mound  mentioned  in  the 
preceding  chapter,  and  in  a  north-easterly  direction, 
runs  a  pathway,  which  after  traversing  several  fields, 
leads  into  the  road  from  Dali  to  Athieno  (Golgoi). 
The  latter  is  a  village  of  considerable  size,  having  some 
pretensions  to  be  called  a  towrn.  Most  of  its  houses 
are  built  of  stone,  and  being  whitewashed  on  the  out- 
side, have  an  appearance  of  neatness  which  is  not 
belied  on  entering,  and  which  bespeaks  the  com- 
paratively wealthy  condition  of  the  owners. 

The  ancient  Golgoi  is  reckoned  by  Pliny  among  the 
fifteen  towns  of  importance  in  Cyprus,  but  otherwise 
there  is  little  reason  to  suppose  that  it  had  ever  been  a 
large  place.  To  judge  from  the  usual  notices  of  it  in 
ancient  writers,  it  would  seem  that  it  had  derived  what 
fame  it  had  from  its  being  a  prominent  centre  of  the 
worship  of  Aphrodite,"'  who  derived  her  title  of  Golgia 

*  Catullus,  Nuptials  of  Peleus  and  Thetis,  v.  96.  and  epig.  37  ;  Theo- 
critus, Id.  xv.  loo,  who  calls  it  Golgos,  but  the  plural  form  is  the  list:;:! 
one.  Stephanus  By/,  says  it  was  also  called  Golgion. 


io6 


CYPRUS. 


[CHAP.   IV. 


from  it.  The  town  is  said  (Stephanus,  s.  v.  FoXyo?)  to 
have  been  founded  by  a  colony  from  Sicyon  under  the 
leadership  of  one  Golgos,  from  whom  it  took  its  name. 
He  is  called  a  son  of  Aphrodite  and  Adonis.  But  while 
there  is  no  doubt  about  Golgoi  having  been  celebrated 
for  its  worship  of  Aphrodite,  it  is  not  clear  from  a 
statement  of  Pausanias  (viii.  5,  2),  whether  he  does 

not  mean  that  Agapenor,  in 
establishing  his  colony  at 
Paphos,  transferred  to  it  the 
worship  of  Aphrodite,  which 
before  had  existed  in  Golgoi. 
If  so,  it  would  be  singu- 
lar how  Golgoi  could  have 
maintained  its  reputation  as 
a  seat  of  her  worship,  after 
the  machinery  of  it  had  been 
transferred  to  Paphos,  which 
also,  having  been  originally  a 
Phoenician  settlement,  would 
have  had  its  temple  in  the  ser- 
vice of  Aphrodite  perhaps  long 
before  the  arrival  of  Agapenor 
on  his  return  from  Troy. 

The  ride  from  Dali  to 
Athieno  usually  occupies 
about  an  hour  and  a  half, 
though  with  a  good  animal  I 
have  on  several  occasions 

gone  in  less  than  an  hour.  The  inhabitants  of  Athieno 
are  mostly  muleteers  by  occupation,  and  own  tolerably 
good  saddle  mules  trained  to  an  easy  amble  which  does 
not  fatigue  the  rider,  and  the  animal  goes  faster  at  this 
pace  than  at  a  trot.  The  usual  trip  made  by  these  mule- 
teers is  from  Nicosia  to  Larnaca,  transporting  travellers 
and  packages  from  one  place  to  the  other,  Athieno 


CHAP.  IV.]  MULETEERS    OF   ATHIENO.  107 

being  midway  between  these  two  cities.  They  can  be 
hired  to  visit  any  part  of  Cyprus,  being  tolerably  well 
acquainted  with  all  the  roads  and  by-paths  of  the 
island. 

These  muleteers  are  as  a  class  excellent,  and  trust- 
worthy, even  under  the  temptation  of  conveying  large 
sums  of  money  from  one  town  to  the  other.  In  fact,  I 
never  heard  during  my  residence  in  Cyprus  of  a  pro- 
fessional muleteer  who  had  proved  unworthy  of  the 
trust  reposed  in  him.  When  a  native  is  obliged  to  go 
more  than  a  day's  journey  on  some  business  which  is 
not  urgent,  being  naturally  of  a  talkative  disposition, 
he  prefers  the  society  of  a  fellow  traveller,  and  will 
sometimes  wait  days  to  obtain  a  companion.  Sup- 
posing, however,  that  he  must  travel  alone,  and  has  a 
journey  of  some  six  or  seven  clays  to  make,  as  for 
instance  from  Larnaca  to  Carpas,  the  following  would 
be  his  arrangements.  He  would  go  to  the  khan,  a 
kind  of  inn  at  which  the  muleteers  stop  in  Larnaca, 
and  there  select  a  mule  to  his  liking,  bargain  with  the 
owner  of  it  for  a  lump  sum  for  the  entire  trip,  or  at  a 
rate  of  so  much  per  day.  The  latter  mode  is  prefer- 
able, for  should  the  mule  prove  unsuitable,  the  traveller 
would  be  at  liberty  to  change  it  on  the  road  if  he  found 
a  better.  The  former  method,  however,  is  generally 
adopted  by  the  natives  for  the  sake  of  economy.  He 
appoints  the  hour  at  which  he  desires  to  start,  and  the 
muleteer,  as  a  rule,  arrives  at  the  traveller's  house  an 
hour  or  two  later.  A  kind  of  native  saddle  is  placed  on 
the  back  of  the  mule,  called  "  stratouri,"  across  which 
are  hung  in  such  a  manner  as  not  to  incommode  the 
traveller,  two  large  canvas  bags,  which  contain  his 
private  effects  and  some  lunch  for  the  first  day's 
journey.  Several  coloured  blankets  or  quilts,  according 
to  the  season,  are  then  piled  on  the  "  stratouri  "  to  be 
used  as  a  bed  at  night. 


I08  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  IV. 

The  muleteer,  who  acts  also  as  guide,  is  mounted 
upon  a  small  but  strong  donkey  in  the  same  fashion  as 
the  traveller,  and  carries  the  extra  baggage  of  the 
latter,  besides  food  for  himself,  provender  for  both 
animals,  and  often  several  parcels  entrusted  for  delivery 
to  his  care. 

At  first  it  seemed  to  me  cruel  to  see  such  little 
animals  so  overloaded,  but  I  became  convinced  in  time 
that  the  Cyprus  donkey  is  stronger  and  resists  the  fatigue 
of  a  long  journey  better  than  a  mule.  When  everything 
is  in  readiness  for  departure,  the  traveller  is  helped 
to  ascend  to  the  top  of  his  quilts,  two  rusty  stirrups 
attached  to  the  extremities  of  a  rope  are  handed  him, 
into  which  he  introduces  his  feet.  By  sitting  upon 
the  rope  he  is  enabled  to  keep  his  equilibrium.  Once 
perched  satisfactorily  upon  his  quilts,  he  opens  a  yellow 
cotton  umbrella,  lights  his  cigarette,  receives  the  bless- 
ings of  his  household,  and  starts  upon  his  journey. 
The  Cypriotes  are  in  general  a  frugal  people,  and  when 
travelling,  can  accommodate  themselves  to  almost  even- 
exigency.  More  than  once  during  my  excursions  in  the 
island  I  have  found,  on  entering  some  small  village, 
some  wealthy  merchant  of  my  acquaintance  seated 
cross-legged  on  the  threshold  of  a  hut,  with  a  straw 
tray  resembling  the  lid  of  a  basket  placed  before  him. 
on  which  were  a  few  black  olives,  a  hard  piece  of 
brown  bread,  and  some  sour  milk,  apparently  enjoying 
his  repast.  The  customs  of  democracy  prevail  on  these 
occasions,  and  it  is  not  uncommon  to  find  the  muleteer 
seated  opposite  the  merchant,  eating  from  the  same 
dish  and  drinking  from  the  same  jug,  a  glass  being 
in  the  interior  of  the  island  considered  a  useless  luxury. 
Often  also  the  urchins  of  the  house,  and  the  dogs  and 
fowls  will  come  to  pick  up  something  from  the 
stranger's  table.  This  mode  of  travelling  is  not  very 
agreeable  to  a  Ivuropean,  and  I  did  not  adopt  it.  Being 


CHAP.  IV.]  SCULPTURES    OF    GOLGOI.  IOQ 

an  old  campaigner  I  soon  comprehended  what  was 
required  to  produce  a  certain  degree  of  comfort,  not, 
however,  without  considerable  cost. 

In  1866  I  went  to  visit  some  fields  about  half-a-mile 
north-east  of  Athieno,  which  were  strewn  with  stone 
and  plaster,  and  with  portions  of  ancient  masonry 
protruding  from  the  soil,  treacherously  inviting  ex- 
ploration, but  found  absolutely  nothing  except  the 
foundations  of  small  houses  not  going  deeper  than  two 
feet  below7  the  surface.  They  did  not  appear  to  me  to 
be  very  ancient. 

In  1867  I  directed  excavations  a  second  time  there 
for  several  \veeks,  but  with  the  exception  of  part  of  the 
city  wall,  found  nothing  to  encourage  the  continua- 
tion of  my  researches.  This  spot  is  now  called  by  the 
natives  "  Aghios  lorgos,"  but  I  could  discover  no 
traces  of  any  church  in  the  vicinity.  I  was  told  that 
this  is  the  spot  which  M.  De  Vogue  identified  as  the 
site  of  the  ancient  city  of  Golgoi.  East  of  it,  near 
a  pathway  leading  from  Athieno  to  Melussa,  is  an 
ancient  burying-ground  which  occupies  several  acres 
in  extent.  Many  of  its  tombs  appear  to  have  been 
opened  long  ago.  I  found  in  several  of  them  stone 
sarcophagi  broken  in  many  pieces.  It  was  here  that 
the  French  archaeologist  found  several  sculptured  re- 
mains and  one  or  two  Cypriote  inscriptions  which  are 
now  deposited  in  the  Museum  of  the  Louvre.  From 
some  of  these  tombs  I  extracted  various  mortuary 
stelae,  with  bas-reliefs  of  poor  style  and  execution,  and 
having  the  figure  of  a  lion  in  an  attitude  of  repose.  On 
some  of  them  there  are  two  lions  back  to  back,  and 
beneath  is  sculptured  the  "  mihir  "  or  winged  globe. 
On  two  others  there  are  sphinxes  instead  of  lions,  and 
the  "  mihir  "  is  sometimes  replaced  by  the  crescent 
with  a  disc  in  the  centre.  The  style  of  execution  of 
the  stelse  surmounted  by  sphinxes  is  much  liner  than 


no 


CYPRUS. 


[CHAP.  IV. 


that  of  those  with  the  lions  ;   even  the  stone  on  which 
they  are  carved  is  of  a  better  quality. 


f  •.» 


The  sarcophagus'"   given  in  the  accompanying  plate 
was  extracted  from  one  of  the  tombs  in  this  field,  and 

when  found  had  one  of  its 
sides  broken.  On  one  end 
of  it  is  represented  a  scene 
from  the  myth  of  Perseus 
and  Medusa.  The  moment 
chosen  by  the  artist  is 
when  Perseus  has  cut  off 
the  Gorgon's  head  and 
makes  off,  having  put  it 
into  his  wallet,  so  that  the 
sight  of  it  might  not  turn  him  to  stone,  since  that  was 
its  peculiar  property.  At  the  same  moment  when  the 
head  was  cut  off  sprang  from  her  neck  the  winged  horse 
Pegasus  and  Chrysaor. 

The    decapitation    of    Medusa    is    a    not    unfrequent 
subject  in  Greek  art,  and  the  manner  of  representing  it 


I  op  of  Sepulchral  Stele  :  Two  Sphinx c 


*  It  was  published  by  Ceccaldi  in  the  "Revue  Archeologique,"  .187^, 

pi.    2, 


PLATE     X. 


CHAP.  IV.]      SARCOPHAGUS    FOUND    AT    GOLGOI.  113 

varies  considerably.  In  a  fine  terra-cotta  relief  in  the 
British  Museum  we  see  Chrysaor  issuing  from  her  neck, 
while  Perseus  is  already  mounted  on  Pegasus  ;  and  in  a 
gold  ornament,  also  in  the  British  Museum,  will  be 
seen  two  Pegasi  issuing  from  her  neck,  while  again  in 
the  celebrated  metope  of  Selinus  in  Sicily,  Medusa  is 
holding  a  small  Pegasus  to  her  side  while  Perseus  is 
drawing  his  knife  across  her  throat,  which  is  in  fact  an 
attempt  to  give  two  stages  of  an  incident  in  one  repre- 
sentation. What  the  dog  which  appears  beside  Perseus 
on  the  sarcophagus  may  mean  is  not  certain.""  Possibly 
it  has  some  sepulchral  signification.  While  the  subject 
of  one  end  is  mythological,  those  of  the  other  end  and  of 
the  two  sides  are  taken  from  daily  life.  On  the  other 
end  is  a  chariot  drawn  by  two  horses,  which  may  be 
compared  with  the  chariots  on  the  large  sarcophagus 
from  Amathus  (engraved,  pi.  xiv.-xv.).  On  one  side  is  a 
banquet  scene,  probably  such  as  accompanied  funeral 
obsequies.  A  similar  banquet  occurs  on  the  celebrated 
terra-cotta  sarcophagus  from  Cervetri  in  the  British 
Museum,  and  is  found  also  on  archaic  painted  vases,  as 
for  instance  in  one  from  Cervetri  in  the  Louvre  (Long- 
perier,  Musee  Napoleon  III.,  pi.  71)  on  which  are  also 
chariot  races  such  as  were  held  at  funeral  ceremonies 
in  early  times.  It  will  be  noticed  also  that  a  dog  is 
tied  up  to  the  banquet  couches  on  this  vase.  The 
remaining  side  of  the  sarcophagus  seems  to  be  the 
most  important  one,  and  if  that  is  so,  it  would  have 
formed  the  front.  The  spectacle  which  it  presents  of 
warriors  in  full  armour  hunting  a  Carian  bull  and  a 
boar  seems  to  be  absurd  and  to  require  some  explana- 
tion, though  no  doubt  we  do  find  Greek  heroes,  when 
hunting  the  Calydonian  boar,  armed  as  in  war.  Take 


''•'  The  figure  of  a  clog,  engraved  on  the  following  page,  was  found  in 
the  same  tomb,  along  with  two  steh\\  engraved  p.  117. 

i 


CYPRUS. 


[CHAP.  IV. 


away  the  bull  or  the  boar,  and  there  remains  a 
group  of  two  warriors  in  the  attitude  of  attacking 
each  other,  with  which  we  are  familiar  in  the  sculp- 
tures of  the  pediment  of  the  temple  at  /Egina,  and  in 
numerous  painted  vases  where  the  design  appears  to 
have  been  originally  derived  from  the  composition  of 
pediment  sculptures  in  which  the  figures  lean  from 
each  side  towards  the  centre.  It  is  not  improbable 
that  the  sculptor  of  the  sarcophagus  also  took  his 
design  from  the  evenly  balanced  groups  of  warriors  in 
the  centre  of  a  pediment  such  as  that  of  /Egina,  and 
instead  of  the  fallen  hero  over  whom  the  combat  is 
going  on,  placed  an  animal  of  the  chase.  Again,  the 
archer  on  the  left  is  a  figure  familiar  to  the  /Egina 
pediment  and  on  vases  where  the  round  surface  corre- 
sponds in  a  manner  with  the  centralising  tendency  of  a 
pediment.  For  the  chase  he  seems  to  be  superfluous. 
Not  only  the  composition  on  this  side  of  the  sarco- 
phagus but  the  figures  individu- 
ally on  all  sides  of  it,  with  their 
slight  and  spare  proportions,  their 
rigidity  in  action,  and  the  careful 
rendering  of  their  drapery  and 
armour,  would  suit  well  the  stage 
of  sculpture  in  which  the  /Egina 
marbles  were  executed. 

At  either  end  of  the  sarcophagus 
stood  a  stele,  each  sculptured  in 
relief,  with  a  group  of  two  sphinxes 
confronted  with  an  elaborate  floral 
ornament  rising  between  them.  A 
similar  representation  of  Sphinxes 

occurs  on  several  other  steke  or  upper  parts  ol  steke 
which  I  found  in  tombs  at  Golgoi.  Two  pairs  of 
Sphinxes  guard  the  doorways  of  the  tomb  from  which 
the  Lvcian  relief  in  the  British  Museum  is  taken  fen- 


PLATE     X'. 


SILVER    BOWL    FOUND    AT    GOLGOI. 


CHAP.  IV.] 


SCULPTURED     STELAE. 


graved,  pi.  xvi.-xvii.).  Similar  Sphinxes  are  seen  at  both 
ends  of  the  large  sarcophagus  from  Amathus  (engraved 
p.  267),  and  other  instances  might  be  quoted  to  show 
that  the  figure  of  the  Sphinx,  like  that  of  the  Siren 
and  Harpy,  was  employed  with  some  sepulchral  sig- 
nification. These  sculptures  are  good  examples  of 
bas-relief  about  the  end  of  its  archaic  stage,  when 
the  relief  was  kept  flat,  the  composition  graceful  and 


Two  Stelre  found  with  the  Sarcophagus.      Height,  4  feet. 

decorative  rather  than  imitative  of  reality,  and  the 
details  very  carefully  worked  out.  The  silver  patera, 
of  which  an  engraving  is  given  (pi.  xi.),  was  found  in 
one  of  these  tombs  during  my  absence  in  America, 
and  is  in  the  possession  of  Mr.  Stini,  a  merchant  of 
Larnaca,  who  kindly  allowed  me  to  take  a  careful 
drawing  of  it. 

Ten   minutes'   walk   south  of  this  burial  ground  is  a 
small    place    called    "  Aghios    Photios,"   where    M.    de 


Il8  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.   IV. 

Vogue  is  also  said  to  have  dug  and  found  some  fine 
stone  heads  and  statues  ;  but  when  I  visited  it,  the 
barley  which  covered  the  fields  was  just  coming  into 
ear,  and  nothing  was  visible  of  these  excavations.  I, 
however,  marked  the  spot,  and  decided  to  revisit  it  after 
the  crop  had  been  gathered  ;  but  official  duties,  and 
other  excavations,  prevented  me  at  the  time  from  doing 
so,  and  for  several  years  I  quite  neglected  Aghios 
Photios ;  till,  in  the  beginning  of  1870,  two  of  my 
diggers  came  to  Larnaca  and  begged  permission  to 
dig  at  Athieno.  Remembering  my  intention  of  digging 
at  Aghios  Photios,  I  furnished  them  with  funds  to 
support  them  and  their  families  in  the  meantime,  and 
explained  to  them  where  I  wished  them  to  dig,  telling 
them  that  in  a  few  clays  I  would  ride  over  and  inspect 
their  work.  Nearly  a  week  passed  before  I  heard  from 
them,  and  I  was  beginning  to  doubt  their  success  when 
one  morning,  while  I  was  at  breakfast,  a  muleteer 
was  announced  as  having  arrived  from  Athieno  with 
a  message  from  them  informing  me  that  they  had 
discovered  an  enormous  stone  head  and  other  sculp- 
tures, and  requesting  me  to  send  a  cart  at  once  for 
them,  as  otherwise  they  feared  the  interference  of  the 
proprietor  of  the  land  upon  \vhich  they  had  been 
found. 

There  was  to  be  a  meeting  of  the  consular  corps 
that  afternoon,  over  which  as  the  Doyen  I  was  obliged 
to  preside,  and  it  was  impossible  for  me  to  leave.  I  was 
much  perplexed  as  to  what  course  to  pursue,  knowing 
that  any  delay  in  the  matter,  should  the  sculptures 
prove  as  important  as  the  messenger  represented  them. 
might  afterwards  cause  me  much  difficult}',  with  a  hall- 
starved  peasantry  ready  to  sei/e  upon  any  objects  likely 
to  afford  them  a  ready  return  of  money.  Fortunately 
at  that  moment  M.  Andrea  Vondiziano,  one  of  my 
consular  employes,  now  Russian  Consul  in  Cyprus, 


CHAP.  IV.]        DISCOVERY    OF    COLOSSAL    HEAD.  ug 

came  in,  and  upon  hearing  of  my  dilemma,  kindly 
volunteered  to  go  to  the  diggings  in  my  stead,  and  to 
report  to  me  the  findings.  Accordingly  one  of  my 
mules  was  at  once  saddled  for  him,  and  he  set  off 
without  delay,  being  previously  instructed  by  me  in 
case  of  any  trouble  with  the  Turkish  authorities  or  the 
owner  of  the  ground,  to  send  me  an  express,  and  that  I 
should  in  that  case  start  for  Aghios  Photios  as  soon  as 
possible. 

In  the  afternoon,  as  the  Consuls  were  assembling  at 
the  American  Consulate,  a  messenger  came  from  M. 
Vondiziano  confirming  the  report  of  the  muleteer,  and 
urging  me  to  send  him  two  ox-carts  for  the  transporta- 
tion of  the  sculptures,  adding  that  everything  was  quiet, 
and  that  the  stone  head  was  colossal,  being  larger  than 
any  he  had  ever  seen. 

I  gave  orders  for  the  carts  to  be  sent  forward  imme- 
diately, and  requested  M.  Vondiziano  to  have  them 
loaded  without  delay,  and  not  to  leave  until  the  next 
morning,  when  I  would  come  to  relieve  him.  M. 
Vondiziano,  who  had  frequently  served  me  on  like 
occasions,  had  one  most  admirable  quality,  which  is 
both  rare  and  precious — that  of  carrying  out  to  the  very 
letter  whatever  instructions  he  might  receive,  instead  of 
modifying  or  distorting  them  according  to  his  own 
fancy,  as  is  the  almost  invariable  custom  of  the  natives. 
Unfortunately,  when  the  two  carts  arrived  at  Aghios 
Photios,  it  became  apparent  that  the  sculptures  were 
too  heavy  to  be  raised  without  additional  help,  and  to 
obtain  this  it  was  necessary  to  send  to  the  village  of 
Athieno.  This  step,  though  unavoidable,  afterwards 
occasioned,  as  will  be  seen,  much  trouble  and  annoy- 
ance. 

The  consular  meeting  was  protracted  to  an  unusual 
hour,  much  time  having  been  wasted  in  trivial  questions 
by  certain  members,  who,  while  suggesting  nothing 


120  CYPRUS.  [CHAl>.  IV. 

themselves,  made  a  point  of  opposing  everything; 
brought  forward  by  their  colleagues.  Wherever  a  con- 
sular corps  resides  in  the  Levant,  its  controlling  power 
is  usually  neutralized  by  the  intrigues,  jealousy,  and 
strife  for  personal  influence  which  generally  distinguish 
it,  and  which  the  wily  Turk  knows  so  well  how  to  use 
to  his  own  advantage.  During  the  first  two  or  three 
years  of  my  residence  in  Cyprus,  the  principal  Consuls 
were  so  united  as  to  command  collectively  that  deference 
from  the  Turkish  local  government  which  they  never 
could  have  obtained  individually.  They  were  gentle- 
men of  high  personal  character,  acquainted  with  the 
world,  and  not  easily  to  be  cajoled  by  Turkish  diplo- 
macy. On  the  present  occasion,  however,  this  happy 
unity  no  longer  reigned,  and  some  of  my  new  col- 
leagues, hoping  to  gain  influence  with  the  government 
by  opposing  every  measure  tending  to  suppress  any 
of  their  illegal  or  arbitrary  acts,  ordinarily  rendered 
futile  the  object  of  the  meeting,  as  in  this  instance. 
Weaned  by  the  length  of  time  wasted  at  the  meet- 
ing, I  retired  early  in  search  of  quiet  and  repose, 
with  the  intention  of  starting  before  daylight  for 
Athieno. 

At  midnight,  however,  I  was  aroused  by  the  tramp  of 
horses'  hoofs  in  the  yard,  and  an  excited  conversation 
carried  on  between  some  newly  arrived  persons  and  my 
two  cavasses.  The  new  arrivals  proved  to  be  two 
mounted  couriers  from  Athieno,  who  had  come  within 
ten  minutes  of  each  other,  and  each  desired  to  see  me  at 
once,  in  order  that  he  might  be  the  first  to  inform  me  of 
what  had  occurred.  The  Cypriotes,  like  all  untutored 
races,  deal  much  in  the  marvellous,  and  their  imagina- 
tions are  easily  fired.  It  was,  therefore,  some  time  before 
I  could  get  at  the  gist  of  their  communication,  which 
was  that  those  who  went  to  get  assistance  in  loading 
the  carts  from  Athieno  had  spread  the  news  of  the  ex- 


CHAP.  IV.]  SCENE    AT    AGHIOS    PHOTIOS.  121 

traordinary  find,  and  that  the  peasantry  had  rushed  in 
large  numbers  to  Aghios  Photios  with  spades  and  pick- 
axes, all  eager  to  participate  in  the  diggings,  and  that 
the  owner  of  the  ground  and  his  relations  were  also  at 
work  upon  it,  that  wonderful  things  were  discovered, 
and  that  the  greatest  confusion  prevailed.  M.  Vondizi- 
ano,  rinding  himself  powerless  to  control  such  a  crowd, 
begged  me  to  send  one  of  my  cavasses  with  some 
"  zaptiehs "  from  Larnaca  to  keep  order  and  guard 
over  the  things  found.  While  we  were  talking,  a  third 
messenger  arrived,  bringing  back  the  mule  I  had  lent 
to  M.  Vondiziano,  and  informing  me  that  two  of  the 
police  belonging  to  Athieno  had  arrived  and  claimed  all 
the  sculptures  in  the  name  of  the  Sultan,  while  many 
peasants  had  also  secretly  conveyed  objects  to  their 
dwellings,  hoping  to  be  protected  by  declaring  them- 
selves in  the  service  of  this  or  that  Consul.  I  saw  there 
was  not  a  moment  to  be  lost,  and  mounting  at  once, 
after  a  hurried  preparation,  gave  orders  to  one  of  my 
cavasses  to  follow  in  the  early  morning  with  provisions, 
my  tents,  camp-bed,  etc. 

A  short  distance  from  Larnaca  I  met  several  men 
riding  at  a  rapid  pace,  whom  I  stopped,  believing  they 
were  other  messengers  for  me,  but  found  that  some  of 
them  had  been  sent  to  the  Caimakam  or  Governor  of 
Larnaca,  and  that  others  were  muleteers  employed 
occasionally  by  other  Consuls,  and  who  had  come  to 
give  them  also  the  news  of  the  find.  I  afterwards  heard 
that  two  of  my  colleagues  had  risen  and  were  actually 
in  the  saddle,  when  they  learned  that  the  American 
Consul  was  probably  by  that  time  already  on  the  spot, 
when  they  prudently  disrobed  again.  My  mule  sped 
on,  vent  re  a  tcrrc,  towards  Aghios  Photios,  where  I 
arrived  in  less  than  an  hour. 

The  scene  which  presented  itself  was  wild  and  weird. 
All  Athieno  wras  bivouacked  on  the  desert-like  plain  of 


122  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  IV. 

Aghios  Photios,  the  moon  was  not  yet  risen,  and  large 
fires  were  lit  at  different  points,  throwing  fantastic 
shadows  as  men  moved  about,  eagerly  gesticulating  and 
conversing.  The  light  falling  upon  their  swarthy  faces 
and  parti-coloured  dress,  gave  them  the  appearance  of 
a  band  of  brigands,  which  in  some  measure  they  were. 
They  numbered  more  than  a  hundred,  and  their  shouts, 
altercations,  and  attempts  at  song,  made  a  perfect 
Pandemonium. 


I  may  here  be  allowed  to  state  that  the  successful 
issue  of  my  affair  with  the  Governor  of  Larnaca  had 
favourably  impressed  the  local  authorities  towards  me. 
and  had  become  well  known  to  the  populace.  This 
now  stood  me  in  good  stead.  As  I  approached,  the 
news  spread  of  the  arrival  ot  the  American  Consul,  and 
the  uproar  and  confusion  instantly  ceased.  Having 
been  long  accustomed  to  the  control  of  large  bodies 
of  men  during  my  militarv  life,  I  had  not  much  difti- 
cultv  in  comprehending  the  situation.  At  a  little 
distance  the  two  Turkish  policemen  were  standing 
guard  over  the  sculptures,  and  I  at  once  rode  towards 


CHAP.  IV.] 


COLOSSAL    HEAD. 


123 


them,  dismounted,  and  ordered  one  of  them  to  take  my 

foaming   animal  in    charge    and  walk  it   about,    which 

he    did    without    question.       I     then     called    the    other 

zaptieh  and  motioned  to  him  to  disperse  the  crowd  and 

clear    a    space    around    the 

sculptures.      He    obeyed    as 

promptly  as  his  companion, 

and    these     steps    had    due 

effect  upon  the  peasants.       I 

then   saw  for  the  first  time 

the    colossal   head.       As   its 

massive  stony  features  were 

revealed  to  me  by  the  fitful 

gleams     of    the     fire-lights, 

there    arose    a    vision    of    a 

people  whose  master-hands 

had  ages  ago  withered  and 

fallen    into    dust.      But   this 

was  no  moment  for  fanciful 


dreaming.      I    now    ordered 

the  carts  to  be  brought  near, 

had  the  sculptures  carefully 

placed  upon  them,  and  giving 

my     mule     to     M.     Andrea 

Vondiziano,    requested    him 

to   escort  them   on  the  way 

to  Larnaca  until  he  should 

encounter     my     cavass,     to 

whose    charge    he    could    deliver    them    and    return    to 

Athieno.       Thus     I    may    say    that    I    rather    captured 

than   discovered  these  stone  treasures.      And  this   was 

all    accomplished    without    the    dissenting    voice    of    a 

single   person,  each   one   doing  what   he  was   requested 

to    do    with     alacrity     without     a    murmur    even    from 

the   owner  of  the    ground,   who,   however,   followed  me 

like  mv  shadow. 


al  Male  He 

Ht.    2   It.    I 


124 


CYPRUS. 


[CHAP.  IV. 


After  the  departure  of  M.  Vondiziano  I  motioned  to 
the  zaptiehs  to  lead  the  way  to  the  village.  Thus  in 
complete  darkness,  preceded  by  these  two  Turks  and 
followed  by  all  the  peasants,  I  walked  alone  to  Athieno. 
The  tread  of  the  now  wearied  and  almost  silent  pea- 
sants as  they  toiled  on  through  the  darkness,  sounded 
to  my  excited  ear  like  the  foot-falls  of  departed  spirits, 
who,  roused  by  the  rifling  of  their  monuments,  had 
come  to  watch  the  disturber.  As  we  neared  the  village, 
however,  the  moon  appeared  over  the  hills,  and  silver- 
ing the  outlines  of  the  mountains  of  Karpass  soon  put 
to  flight  all  thoughts  of  disembodied  spirits. 

On  reaching  the  village  I  went  to  the  house  of  a 
muleteer,  where  I  had  stopped  on  former  occasions, 
and  dismissing  the  two  policemen  with  a  small  present, 
bade  good-night  to  the  crowd  which  had  escorted  me 
thither.  Without  undressing  I  wrapped  myself  in  one 
of  the  thick  native  quilts,  and  stretched  upon  a  hard 
wooden  settle,  was  soon  profoundly  asleep. 


CHAPTER    V. 

Removal  of  sculptures  to  Larnaca. — Purchase  of  ground  and  recovery 
of  purloined  sculptures.- — Systematic  diggings  commenced.— 
Discovery  of  more  sculptures. — Survey  of  another  field. — -Dis- 
covery of  a  Temple. — Portions  of  its  Foundations  destroyed  by 
French  diggers. — Many  hundreds  of  statues  found  in  its  area. — 
The  Governor-General  wants  to  stop  the  diggings. — Official  cor- 
respondence with  the  Pasha. — Many  inscriptions  in  Cypriote 
characters  and  with  bas-reliefs.  —  Difficulty  in  removing  the 
findings  to  Larnaca. 

THE  sun  had  scarcely  risen,  when  M.  Vondiziano 
arrived,  bringing  satisfactory  reports,  adding,  however, 
that  he  had  the  greatest  difficulty  in  crossing  a  range 
of  hills  in  order  to  reach  Larnaca.  Information  also 
reached  me  that  the  Caimakam  of  Larnaca,  Arif  Effendi, 
accompanied  by  his  Mejiliss,  was  on  his  way  to  Athieno, 
coming,  no  doubt,  to  take  possession  of  the  antiquities 
found  on  the  previous  day.  Two  important  steps  had 
now  to  be  taken  at  once.  One  was  the  purchasing 
of  the  ground  in  which  the  diggings  had  been  com- 
menced, thus  acquiring  a  right  to  all  objects  found 
therein.  The  other  was  the  prohibition  of  all  further 
excavations  by  unauthorised  persons.  This  was  accom- 
plished in  less  than  an  hour's  time,  though  with  some 
little  difficulty.  The  owner  of  the  ground  demanded 
£1,000,  which  was  refused  ;  but  in  the  meantime,  hear- 
ing of  the  approach  of  the  Caimakam  of  Larnaca,  and 
foreseeing  what  would  happen,  he  came  of  his  own 
accord  to  offer  it  to  me  for  £20,  which,  as  may  be 


126  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  V. 

supposed,  I  made  no  difficulty  in  accepting,  and  the 
sale  was  thus  effected  without  delay.  The  Caimakam, 
after  having  rested  an  hour  on  the  road  at  a  so-called 
coffee-house,  continued  his  route  directly  to  Aghios 
Photios.  He  expected,  from  the  reports  he  had  re- 
ceived, to  find  the  whole  of  Athieno  busy  in  digging  out 
most  wonderful  things  ;  but,  to  his  astonishment  and 
that  of  his  suite,  he  found  the  place  deserted,  and  that 
the  antiquities  also  had  disappeared.  He  sent  for  the 
owner  of  the  ground  and  the  chief  men  of  Athieno,  in 
order  to  be  informed  of  what  had  happened.  On  learn- 
ing that  the  ground  had  become  the  property  of  the 
American  Consul,  but  above  all,  that  the  objects  there 
discovered  had  safely  reached  the  American  Consulate, 
even  before  he  and  his  Mejiliss  had  left  Larnaca, 
he  concluded  there  was  nothing  left  for  him  to  do 
but  to  report  events  to  the  Governor-General  ;  and, 
having  made  a  hearty  repast  and  imbibed  several 
gallons  of  wine  and  raki — as  usual,  at  the  expense  of 
the  poor  villagers — he  returned,  accompanied  by  all  his 
retinue,  to  Larnaca.  Some  of  my  men  kept  me  well 
informed  of  what  was  passing  at  Aghios  Photios,  and 
in  the  meantime  I  was  busy  in  securing  all  the  objects 
which  the  peasants  had  secreted  at  their  houses  in 
Athieno,  knowing  that  they  would  be  likely  to  be  impri- 
soned if  found  digging  without  a  permit. 

They  knew  that  I  had  the  power  of  taking  those 
things  from  them- by  force  if  I  chose  to  use  it,  and  they 
were  therefore  very  glad  when  they  found  that  instead, 
I  offered  them  a  liberal  sum  for  the  acquisition  of  each 
object,  though  at  first  they  were  rather  doubtful  of  my 
good  faith,  and  it  required  a  good  deal  of  tact  and 
manoeuvring  to  find  out  where  all  the  pieces  that  had 
been  abstracted  were,  and  who  had  them.  Having 
been  privately  informed  which  of  the  peasants  retained 
the  missing  objects,  and  having  obtained  a  pretty 


CHAP.  V.]       RECOVERY  OF  SCULPTURES.  127 

accurate  description  of  them,  I  sent  for  these  men,  and 
resorted  to  the  following  little  stratagem  to  get  the 
articles  into  my  possession.  I  had  lying  upon  a  chair 
a  volume  of  Layard's  "  Nineveh,"  and  selecting  a  page 
upon  which  was  an  engraving  as  nearly  resembling 
the  object  I  knew  the  man  had  concealed  as  I  could 
find,  I  told  him  that  this  book  was  a  book  of  divina- 
tion, and  that  by  it  I  could  discover  whether  or  not 
he  had  secreted  any  of  the  antiquities.  Then,  boldly 
turning  to  the  engraving,  I  pointed  it  out  to  him, 
and  demanded  its  immediate  restitution,  but  with 
the  promise  of  a  good  backsheesh  if  complied  with  at 
once. 

The  amazed  and  convicted  peasant  would  clap  his 
hand  on  his  head,  or  use  some  other  sign  of  astonish- 
ment, calling  out,  "  Panagia  mou  !  "  (my  Blessed 
Virgin  !)  "  he  has  a  book  telling  him  everything!  "  and 
shortly  after  the  missing  object  would  be  forthcoming. 
I  do  not  believe  Mr.  Layard  ever  imagined  that  his 
discoveries  in  Nineveh  would  be  used  in  such  a  novel 
mode  for  discovering  antiquities  in  Cyprus  !  In  this 
way  I  got  possession  of  everything  that  had  been  found, 
without  much  annoyance. 

Early  next  morning,  having  been  refreshed  by  a  long 
night's  rest,  I  went  to  visit  the  ground  I  had  purchased, 
and  was  not  a  little  surprised  to  find  that  it  was  not  the 
field  I  had  originally  pointed  out  to  my  two  diggers  as 
the  place  where  I  wished  them  to  dig,  but  a  piece  oi 
land  some  200  yards  west  of  it,  and  separated  from  it 
by  a  little  mound.  In  this  field  the  crowd  of  amateur 
diggers  from  Athieno  of  the  previous  clay  had,  in  their 
eagerness,  dug  here  and  there  in  such  a  confused  and 
irregular  manner,  as  to  render  it  impossible  to  ascertain 
with  any  degree  of  accuracy  whether  a  temple  had 
existed  there  or  not.  I  was  therefore  obliged  to  have 
all  the  excavated  earth  removed  from  the  surface,  in 


128  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  V. 

order  to  examine  the  portions  which  had  been  left 
undisturbed  by  the  peasants. 

When  this  had  been  accomplished,  I  had  borings 
made  in  the  places  where  the  men  had  excavated,  in 
the  hope  of  arriving  at  the  foundations  of  some  wall, 
but  reached  the  virgin  earth  without  meeting  any  such 
indications,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  stones  cemented 
together  in  semi-circular  form,  of  which  the  diameter 
was  5  feet  7  inches.  This  was  found  less  than  3  feet 
below  the  surface.  It  is  evident  that  so  small  an  area 
never  could  have  been  that  of  a  temple,  even  should 
the  whole  circle  have  been  completed,  of  which  I  found 
no  indication.  I  examined  very  particularly  the  few 
stones  amid  the  sculptures  that  were  dug  up  on  the 
previous  clay,  and  convinced  myself  that  none  of  them 
had  ever  been  used  in  building. 

On  my  return  from  America  in  1873,  I  revisited  this 
spot,  and  studied  carefully  the  whole  ground  a  second 
time.  I  employed  several  men  to  remove  again  all  the 
earth  which  I  had  ordered  to  be  replaced  on  the  first 
occasion,  from  the  area  within  which  the  sculptures 
had  been  found,  and  again  I  made  many  borings  until 
the  virgin  soil  was  reached,  and  satisfied  myself  that  no 
stone  foundations  of  any  structure  had  ever  existed 
there.  I  was  particularly  anxious  to  investigate  this 
matter  thoroughly,  as  I  had  seen  it  stated  in  print  that 
I  had  discovered  tico  temples  at  Aghios  Photios  instead 
of  one,  and  this  occasioned  much  natural  but  wasted 
speculation,  in  regard  to  i.'/iic/i  statues  had  been  found 
in  one  temple,  and  which  in  the  other,  and  which  of  the 
two  shrines  was  the  more  ancient,  etc.  As  my  object 
in  these  pages  is  to  give  the  reader,  as  far  as  lies  in 
my  power,  a  simple  and  truthful  narrative  of  my 
discoveries,  I  must  be  excused  if  I  prefer  stating 
them  as  they  actually  occurred,  rather  than  drawing 
upon  my  imagination  as  to  how  they  might  have 


CHAP.  V.J 


STATUES  OF  EGYPTIAN  STYLE. 


I2Q 


been ;     this    I     consider    the    pre-eminent    duty    of    an 
explorer. 

It  was  in  this  field,  as  I  have  before  mentioned,  that 
the  remarkably  well  preserved  colossal  head  was  found. 


But  no  portion  of  the  body  belonging  to  it  was  dis- 
covered, with  the  exception  of  the  base  supporting  the 
feet,  the  left  a  little  in  advance  of  the  right,  as  seen 
in  Egyptian  statues. 


130  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  V. 

Thirty-two  statues  of  various  sizes,  all  more  or  less 
mutilated,  and  twenty-six  bases,  some  with,  and  some 
without  the  feet  adhering  to  them,  together  with  a  pro- 
miscuous mass  of  fragments  of  legs,  arms,  and  bodies, 
were  also  found  in  this  field.  These  sculptures  belong 
to  a  hieratic  style  of  art,  in  which  the  Egyptian  or 
Assyrian  element  predominates,  or  as  in  some  instances, 
are  blended.  None  of  them  can  be  said  to  exhibit  to 
any  degree  the  influence  of  Greek  art.  Their  head- 
dresses consist  either  of  the  pointed  Assyrian  cap,  or 
of  the  Egyptian  psJicnt.  The  head,  as  my  friend  Mr. 
Ceccaldi  rightly  remarked,  is  the  only  portion  of  the 
body  to  which  the  sculptor  gave  his  particular  attention. 
As  the  type  of  features  represented  is  neither  Egyptian 
nor  Assyrian,  but  has  a  strong  resemblance  to  the 
present  inhabitants  of  Cyprus,  it  is  presumable  that 
these  statues  were  portraits  of  native  Cypriote  digni- 
taries. Their  dress  consists  either  of  a  long  robe 
reaching  to  the  feet,  or  of  a  short  tunic  coming  only  to 
the  knee.  The  arms  either  fall  close  to  the  sides  of 
the  body,  or  the  right  one  is  folded  on  the  breast,  with 
the  hand  closed  or  holding  a  lotus  flower. 

Among  these  thirty-two  statues  was  one  of  semi- 
colossal  dimensions,  the  body  of  which  is  in  an  admira- 
ble state  of  preservation  ;  the  head,  arms,  and  feet  were 
at  first  missing,  but  I  had  the  good  fortune  to  recover 
them  from  the  different  peasants  who  had  carried  them 
off.  They  are  now  united,  and  the  whole  has  an  im- 
posing appearance.  The  head-dress  is  pointed,  and 
finished  at  the  top  by  the  representation  of  a  calf's  or 
bull's  head.  The  front  of  the  helmet  is  divided  by  six 
straight  lines  converging  towards  the  top,  and  has  an 
ornamentation  in  low  relief  somewhat  resembling  a  lyre, 
repeated  four  times  in  each  of  the  spaces.  The  beard, 
which  was  once  painted  red,  is  elaborately  arranged  in 
verv  short  curls.  The  hair  in  front  is  also  curled,  and  on 


CHAP.  V.]     STATUES  OF  EGYPTIAN  STYLE. 

either  side  of  the  neck  fall  three  long  tresses.  The  dress 
is  a  long  robe  falling  to  the  feet,  and  worn  much  in  the 
same  manner  as  the  peplos  on  early  Greek  female  figures. 
Round  the  neck  of  the  robe,  are  two  rows  of  stars  painted 


Assyro-Ec;yptian  Statue. 
Ht.  6  ft.  2  in. 


Statue  in  Egyptian  stylo. 
Ht.  4  ft  3J  in. 


in  red,  probably  meant  to  represent  embroidery.  The 
treatment  of  the  folds  is  not  unlike  that  of  archaic  Greek 
drapery.  The  forearms  with  the  hands  are  made  sepa- 
rately, and  fitted  to  the  figure  by  means  of  plugs  inserted 
into  square  holes  about  four  inches  in  depth.  The  right 
hand  holds  a  cup  by  its  foot  between  the  middle  and  fore- 
fingers, while  in  the  left  is  a  dove  with  wings  spread. 


132 


CYPRUS. 


[CHAP.  V. 


These  attributes 
would  seem  to  indi- 
cate the  office  of  a 
high  priest  of  Venus, 
possibly  one  of  the 
Cinyradas,  as  we  know 
that  they  were  not 
only  at  the  head  of 
the  priesthood  of  the 
temple  at  Paphos,  but 
the  recognised  heads 
of  all  the  sanctuaries 
of  the  island  dedi- 
cated to  the  worship 
of  Venus  ;  yet  the 
great  development  of 
the  breasts  and  the 
quasi  feminine  fea- 
tures, have  led  more 
than  one  archaeolo- 
gist to  believe  that 
the  statue  might 
represent  the  god- 
dess herself,  who, 
according  to  Macro- 
bius,  was  at  Ama- 
thus  conceived  as 
having  a  beard  ;  and 
in  fact,  I  discovered 
at  a  later  period 
two  terra-cotta  sta- 
tuettes of  a  bearded 
female  figure  in 
tombs  belonging  to 
that  city. 

Havinir     remarked 


PLATE  XII 


COLOSSAL   STATUK   OF   HPLRCU 


CHAP.  V.]  STATUE    OF    HERCULES.  155 

ihat  much  of  the  defacement  of  the  statues  found  here 
was  clue  to  the  unskilful  handling  of  the  pick  by  the 
peasants  of  Athieno,  when  I  recommenced  the  excava- 
tions I  sent  for  a  party  of  my  experienced  diggers  from 
Dali,  whom  alone  I  permitted  to  dig,  but  in  order  not 
to  displease  the  former  diggers,  who  were  very  anxious 
to  work,  I  employed  many  of  them  in  removing  the 
excavated  earth. 

I  began  by  opening  a  trench  ten  yards  from  the 
disturbed  ground,  and  for  two  days  was  rewarded  only 
by  some  pedestals  and  fragments  of  statuary  ;  but  on 
the  third  day  a  fine  statue  of  Hercules,  of  colossal  size, 
appeared,  with  the  skin  of  a  lion's  head  as  head-dress. 
The  legs  from  the  knee  downward  were  at  first  wanting, 
but  were  soon  distinguished  from  their  large  proportions 
among  a  heap  of  fragments  a  little  way  oft',  and  shortly 
after  my  men  uncovered  its  base  with  the  feet  attached 
to  it.  The  right  arm  of  the  statue  is  broken  off,  and 
could  not  be  found,  further  than  a  portion  of  the  hand 
containing  four  arrows.  The  left  arm  is  raised,  and  in 
its  hand  had  held  a  knotted  club,  which  was  disinterred 
soon  afterwards,  A  portion  of  a  bo\v  near  the  left 
shoulder  is  also  seen  ornamented  with  the  head  of  an 
animal. 

My  workmen  now  came  in  contact  with  a  quadran- 
gular block  of  great  weight,  which  had  been  partly 
unearthed  and  damaged  in  the  previous  diggings, 
and  being  unable  to  remove  it,  requested  permission 
to  break  it  up.  Instead  of  agreeing  to  this,  I  insisted 
on  having  it  turned  over  for  inspection,  though  from 
its  being  roughly  hewn  on  the  three  visible  sides, 
it  did  not  bear  much  promise,  Imagine  therefore 
my  delight  in  finding  a  spirited  bas  relief  slightly 
tinted  with  red.  representing  one  of  the  labours  of 
I  lercules. 

This  relief  is   divided   bv   a   horizontal    line    into    two 


i36 


CYPRUS. 


[CHAP.  V. 


main  fields,  and  in  this  respect  reminds  one  of  the 
Assyrian  friezes.  Apparently  on  a  third  field  or  plain, 
and  not  on  a  pedestal,  as  M.  Ceccaldi  says  (Rev.  Arch. 


I&72,  p.  223),  is  represented  Hercules  in  colossal  pro- 
portions, advancing  from  the  left.  He  wears  the  lion's 
skin  tailing  from  the  shoulders;  the  right  arm  is  elevated 


CHAP.  V.]  PEDESTAL    WITH    BAS-RELIEF.  137 

to  the  height  of  the  head,  but  the  head  itself,  and  the 
upper  portion  of  the  body,  is  too  much  obliterated  to  be 
distinguished.  In  the  distance  is  seen  the  herdsman's 
dog,  Orthrus,  which  has  here  three  heads,  instead  of 
two  as  usually  supposed  ;  an  arrow  pierces  its  neck 
between  the  second  and  third  head.  In  the  lower 
field  is  the  herdsman  Eurytion  driving  away  the  cattle 
of  Geryon  to  prevent  Hercules  from  obtaining  them, 
and  thus  accomplishing  one  of  the  tasks  imposed 
on  him  by  Eurystheus.  This  relief  has  been  pub- 
lished by  Ceccaldi  in  the  Revue  Archeologique,  xxiv. 
(1872),  pi.  21,  and  by  Doell,  Die  Sammlung  Cesnola, 
No.  763- 

It  became  evident  that  this  huge  stone  was  the 
pedestal  of  the  newly  discovered  statue,  and  this  was 
confirmed  by  our  finding  that  it  fitted  exactly.  As  it 
would  have  been  both  very  difficult  and  useless  to 
remove  so  great  a  mass,  I  decided  on  having  the 
sculptured  portion  sawn  oft".  This  was  safely  and  easily 
performed  by  one  of  my  own  diggers. 

Although,  after  this  important  discovery,  the  dig- 
gings were  continued  ten  or  twelve  days  longer,  nothing 
was  found  worth  recording,  nor  was  the  slightest 
evidence  of  architectural  remains  to  be  seen.  Leaving 
the  men,  under  the  superintendence  of  M.  Vondiziano, 
at  work  in  this  field,  I  took  another  party  with  me,  and 
went  to  survey  the  field  on  the  other  side  of  the 
mound  which  was  the  object  of  my  previously  intended 
explorations. 

The  diggings  superintended  by  M.  de  Vogue  had 
commenced  at  the  top  of  the  mound,  and  extended 
down  its  eastern  slope  into  a  strip  of  land  not  over  two 
acres  wide,  flanked  by  a  low  ridge.  On  reaching  the 
foot  of  the  mound  he  proceeded  a  little  southward,  to 
the  distance  of  a  few  yards  only,  and  then  the  work 
was  abandoned.  The  owner  of  the  field  which  I  came 


138  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  V. 

to  survey,  was  a  shrewd  Greek  peasant,  who  being 
anxious  to  sell  it  to  me  at  as  high  a  price  as  possible, 
began  extolling  the  beautiful  things  which  he  said  a 
"•  mil  or  do  Franccsc"  had  brought  away  from  thence,  and, 
added  he,  casting  his  eyes  up  to  heaven  and  clasping 
his  hands  over  his  breast,  "without  paying  me  anything 
for  them  !  " 

With  the  exception  of  the  four  trenches  which  were 
still  visible,  and  the  mounds  of  earth  thrown  up  from 
them,  there  was  nothing  to  be  seen  which  would  indicate 
that  anything  had  ever  been  found  there. 

I  succeeded  finally  in  buying  the  ground  for  a  few 
hundred  piastres,  on  condition  that  in  case  of  my  find- 
ing things  of  value,  the  price  of  the  ground  should  be 
augmented  to  that  paid  the  owner  of  the  other  field. 
He  also  stipulated  that  when  my  diggings  were  termi- 
nated, the  ground  should  revert  to  him.  This  being 
agreed  to,  I  had  a  bill  of  sale  made  out,  and  after  having 
carefully  surveyed  the  whole  area  I  had  purchased, 
began  digging  in  a  regular  manner  from  the  foot  of  the 
mound,  by  opening  a  trench  twenty-five  feet  in  length, 
and  advancing  thus  towards  the  centre. 

To  attempt  to  induce  the  peasants  to  work  with  iron 
spades  and  wheelbarrows  was  and  always  is  quite  use- 
less ;  they  persistently  refused  them,  and  therefore  the 
work  progressed  very  slowly,  much  time  being  employed 
in  removing  the  excavated  earth  by  means  of  the  native 
basket  slung  over  the  shoulder  bv  a  rope.  After  the 
trench  became  widened,  and  had  reached  a  depth  of  677 
feet,  I  encountered  a  stone  wall  2  feet  10  inches  high, 
and  2  feet  thick.  This  wall  was  followed  until  its  ex- 
tremity at  either  end  was  reached.  On  the  north  end,  the 
wall  turned  at  a  right  angle  in  an  easterly  direction,  but 
the  southern  end  abruptly  ceased  after  a  few  feet,  though 
upon  examination  it  seemed  intact,  and  not  to  have 
been  destrovecl  bv  former  excavations.  Leaving  oft 


CHAP.  V.] 


TEMPLE    OF    GOLGOI. 


139 


work  on  this  side,  we  followed  the  line  of  the  northern 
wall,  and  met  its  eastern  angle  at  a  distance  of  30  feet. 
As  the  western  wall,  notwithstanding  its  abrupt  termina- 
tion, already  measured  over  45  feet,  it  was  evident  that 
the  northern  wall  was  the  width  of  the  building.  In 
process  of  time  the  eastern  wall  was  laid  bare,  and 
found  to  measure  60  feet  in  length,  being  double  the 
width.  These  walls  proved  to  be  merely  the  foundations 
of  the  structure.  I  am  convinced  that  a  great  number 


Plan  of  Temple  of  GolgoL 

of  the  temples  built  in  Cyprus  previous  to  Hellenic 
influence  in  the  island,  were  very  simple  in  their 
architecture,  built  exclusively  of  sun-dried  bricks,  and 
then  thickly  plastered  within  and  without,  like  the 
houses  built  there  at  the  present  day.  The  absence  of 
columns  and  the  finding  of  two  stone  capitals  in  this 
enclosure,  may  be  explained  by  the  conjecture  that  the 
custom  which  prevails  to-day  in  Cyprus,  especially  in 
the  interior,  of  forming  the  columns  of  the  porticos  and 
peristyles  of  wood,  with  capitals  and  bases  of  stone, 
obtained  at  that  period.  For  this  purpose,  the  capitals 
found  among  ancient  ruins  are  often  employed  now,  and 


140 


CYPRUS. 


[CHAP.  V. 


sometimes  with  ludicrous  effect,  as  for  instance  in  the 
portico  of  a  Greek  convent  at  Lapethus,  where  I  counted 
twenty  wooden  shafts,  only  five  feet  in  height,  supported 
and  crowned  by  beautifully  carved  Corinthian  capitals, 
out  of  all  proportion  to  the  petty  shafts.  It  is  a  pity  to 
see  those  capitals  of  fine  marble,  and  excellent  work- 
manship, used  for  the  support  of  a  roof  of  mud,  after 
having  doubtless  adorned  some  important  building  in 
ancient  times. 

As  soon  as  I  had  ascertained  the  length  of  the 
eastern  wall  or  foundation,  I  increased  the  number  of 
workmen,  and  continued  the  excavations  along  the 
whole  line  at  the  same  time.  After  removing  the  seven 
feet  of  earth  which  covered  it,  a  line  of  oblong  pedestals, 
seventy-two  in  number,  roughly  made  and  of  various 
proportions,  became  visible.  They  seemed  to  occupy 
their  original  positions,  and  were  placed  close  to  each 
other,  but  without  any  equality  of  height.  \Ve  had 
scarcely  advanced  two  feet  from  these  when  along  the 
whole  line  appeared  a  number  of  statues  in  calcareous 
stone,  which  afterwards  proved  to  be  of  all  sizes,  from 
colossal  to  the  size  of  statuettes,  most  of  which  were 
lying  with  their  faces  downward.  Although  these 
figures  were  so  few  feet  from  the  surface,  yet  they  were 
exceedingly  difficult  to  remove,  owing 
to  the  earth  in  which  they  were  im- 
bedded being  so  mixed  with  the  clay, 
probablv  of  decomposed  bricks,  as  to 
form  a  concrete  mass,  almost  im- 
penetrable to  the  pickaxe. 

To     I'L'ndtT     tllC     task'()f    the     dlggCl'S 

in  some  measure  less  difficult,  I  had 
water  brought  and  poured  on,  so  as  to  soften  the  earth 
some  inches  at  a  time,  by  which  means  it  was  more 
easily  removed.  But  this  was  a  very  slow  process,  since 
the  water  had  to  be  brought  from  a  considerable  dis- 


Terra-cott 


CHAP.  V.]     SCULPTURE    IN    TEMPLE    OF    GOLGOI. 


tance,  and  from  a  spring  which  yielded  so  small  a 
quantity  as  to  require  much  time  in  filling  the  jars. 
The  mode  of  carrying  water  in  Cyprus  to-day  is  pre- 


Height,  12  inches. 


Height,  14  inches. 


Height,  92  inches 


Height,  145  inches. 


cisely  the  same  as  that  in  vogue  three  thousand  years 
ago,  namely,  by  means  of  earthenware  jars  placed  in  a 
sort  of  wicker  yoke,  which  is  put  on  the  hack  of  a 
donkey  ridden  by  the  water-man.  This  may  be  seen 
in  the  little  terra-cotta  images  belonging  to  the  pro- 


142  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  V. 

cession  found  by  me  at  Alambra.  I  was  obliged  to 
employ  six  men  for  this  purpose  alone,  and  after  two 
weeks  of  very  hard  labour  succeeded  in  extricating  the 
first  row  of  sculptures.  I  particularly  remarked  the 
grouping  of  the  statues  ;  those  with  conical  head- 
dresses were  found  side  by  side,  while  those  showing  a 
strong  Egyptian  tendency  were  grouped  together.  One 
of  these  statues,  from  its  greater  size,  attracted  my 
attention.  Its  outline  could  be  seen,  and  it  appeared 
to  be  intact.  Soon  after  one  could  perceive  that  it  was 
a  bearded  figure  with  a  long  robe.  I  cannot  explain 
how  tantalising  it  was  to  be  able  to  see  these  positive 
evidences  of  fine  sculptures  lying  there,  while  knowing 
the  patient  industry  and  length  of  days  necessary  before 
they  could  be  got  free  from  the  soil.  When  the  profile 
of  this  statue  became  visible,  there  were  over  six  feet  of 
cemented  earth  to  be  removed  from  its  back,  and  each 
blow  of  the  pickaxe  made  me  shiver  even  in  that  hot 
climate,  as  I  thought  that  the  reverberation  of  the  blows 
alone  might  injure  what  promised  to  be  a  statue  of 
unusual  interest  and  value.  I  amused  myself  for  several 
days  in  the  interim  with  a  wet  sponge  and  a  knife  in 
removing  the  clayey  earth  around  the  head,  and  from 
time  to  time  made  some  new  and  delightful  discovery  ; 
first  that  its  hair  and  beard  were  beautifully  curled,  after 
the  Assyrian  fashion  ;  then  that  the  curls,  when  wet  by 
the  application  of  the  sponge,  showed  traces  of  red  colour; 
then  an  almond-shaped  eye  became  visible,  with  the  pupil 
coloured,  also  in  red.  But  the  most  prominent  feature 
which  was  to  give  character  to  the  whole  face,  and 
either  enhance  or  destroy  its  beauty,  would  that  be 
found  uninjured  ?  Alas  !  it  was  too  much  the  ordinary 
fate  of  ancient  statues  to  be  deprived  of  this  essential 
feature  to  hope  for  better  fortune  in  this  instance  ;  but 
I  worked  on  slowly  and  with  increasing  precaution,  re- 
placing the  knife  by  a  piece  of  soft  wood,  and  applying 


CHAP.  V.]  DIFFICULTIES  OF  EXCAVATING  SCULPTURES.    143 


the  sponge   freely.      Finally  the  nose  appeared  in   all 

its  perfection  ;   but  the   anxiety  to  find  the  rest  of  the 

head    intact    increased,    and    intensified    my  fears    and 

hopes.      Thus    I     laboured    for 

days,   gradually  developing  one 

feature  after  another,  until  the 

whole     magnificent    head    was 

laid  bare,  and  found   unmarred 

even   by  a   scratch.      It    had    a 

pointed    head-dress,  apparently 

representing    knitted    work    or 

leather,  and  ending  in  a  knot. 

Meanwhile  the  men  were  pro- 
ceeding steadily  with  their  work 
along  the  line,  and  the  promise 
of  backsheesh  made  them  ex- 
tremely careful  of  their  picks. 
Some  statues  had  already  been 
extracted,  but  in  most  cases  the 
head  was  found  severed,  as  if 
broken  in  the  fall  of  the  statue 
from  its  pedestal.  It  was  quite 
evident  on  examination  that  the 
breakage  was  not  recent. 

Four  men  were  busily  at  work 
extracting  MY  statue,  and  I 
counted  upon  seeing  it  in  three 
days  more  standing  erect  in  its 
majesty.  At  last  it  was  entirely 
uncovered,  and  found  in  admir- 
able preservation.  As  with 
many  of  the  others  the  head 
was  found  to  be  detached,  but  this  was  a  small  matter, 
since  in  course  of  time  it  could  be  firmly  replaced. 
The  whole  statue  is  nearly  seven  feet  in  height.  The 
Iress,  of  some  heavy  material,  reached  to  the  feet  and 


Statue  in  Assyrian  style,  from  Golgoi. 
Height,  6  feet  5  inches. 


144  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  V. 

entirely  concealed  the  form,  like  those  in  the  Assyrian 
bas-reliefs  found  by  Layard,  with  the  exception  of  the 
arms,  which  are  bare  and  hang  down  by  the  sides. 
The  feet  also  are  bare,  and  stand  in  a  line.  Round  the 
bottom  of  the  robe  were  faint  traces  of  red  ornamenta- 
tion, only  visible  on  being  wetted.  Of  all  the  statues  I 
discovered,  none  were  so  purely  Assyrian  in  character 
as  this. 

Nearly  all  the  statues  along  the  line  were  by  this 
time  unearthed  and  placed  upright  in  one  of  the  large 
Turkish  tents  which  the  Pasha  had  lent  me.  This  pre- 
caution against  rapid  evaporation  after  the  moisture 
they  had  absorbed  was  seen  to  be  very  necessary,  as 
any  fragments  which  had  been  incautiously  left  under 
the  burning  sun  began  to  split.  In  the  east  wall,  near 

the  south-east  corner,  was  an 
aperture  which  had  probably 
been  an  entrance  ;  near  it  was 
discovered  a  stone  vase  seven 
feet  in  diameter,  and  only  sixteen 
inches  high,  which  had  probably 
been  used  to  contain  water  for 
sprinkling  those  with  who  were 
to  enter  the  building,  thus  cor- 
responding to  the  pcrirrhantcrion 
at  the  entrance  of  Greek  temples. 
In  shape  it  resembled  an  enor- 
mous bowl  with  four  handles,  and  was  decorated  with  a 
wreath  of  ivy  leaves  carved  round  the  upper  part  near 
the  rim.  Unfortunately,  it  was  broken  in  so  many  pieces 
as  to  be  past  restoration.  On  a  fragment  was  carved 
a  snake  in  bold  relief,  with  the  head  erect,  and  under  it  a 
dolphin  ;  on  the  right  of  the  reptile  had  been  an  inscrip- 
tion of  several  lines  in  Cypriote  characters,  but,  unfor- 
tunately, so  worn  out  as  to  be  no  longer  decipherable. 
At  the  bottom  of  the  vase  was  a  round  hole  two  inches 


CHAP.  V.J 


STATUES  IX  EGYPTIAN  STYLE. 


145 


in    diameter,    for   the   passage    of   water.     It    originally 
stood  outside  the  temple,  and  close  to  the  right  of  the 


entrance.  In  the  north  wall 
was  found  precisely  the  same 
kind  of  opening  or  entrance, 
and  the  same  peculiarity  of 
position  of  not  being  in  the 
centre.  Near  this  aperture 
also  was  found  a  similar  stone 
vase  ornamented  with  ivy 
leaves  and  two  handles,  with- 
out any  inscription,  but  in  a  good  state  of  preservation; 
it  is  now  in  the  Xew  York  Museum.  In  it  were  found 
several  small  jugs,  roughly  cut  out  of  stone. 

i. 


146  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  V. 

AtV,T  eleven  days  of  continuous  labour  with  no  men 
on  this  line  of  sixty  feet  we  had  advanced  only  nine  feet 
towards  the  centre,  yet  228  sculptures  had  been  un- 
earthed ;  of  these,  though  many  were  found  broken,  the 
surfaces  were  with  but  few  exceptions  remarkably  free 
from  defacement  of  any  kind,  a  matter  of  much  surprise 
to  the  archaeologists  who  examined  them  in  I-Airope. 
About  two  hundred  of  them  averaged  only  two  feet 
in  height  ;  the  remainder  were  either  life  or  heroic  size. 

After  this  find,  though  the  men  kept  steadily  pro- 
gressing with  their  work  with  the  same  care  and 
precaution  for  a  whole  week,  nothing  more  was  dis- 
covered, except  in  the  immediate  vicinitv  of  the  lateral 
or  north  and  south  walls  ;  this  was  very  unsatisfactory. 

The  Governor-General  of  the  island  now  gave  signs 
of  life.  The  Caimakam  of  Larnaca  had  duly  reported  to 
him  rny  recent  discoveries,  embellishing  them  as  usual 
with  the  oriental  tale  of  gold  findings.  The  Pasha, 
whose  authority  at  the  time  of  which  I  write  was  almost 
unlimited,  had,  however,  a  kind  of  Council  to  which  he 
referred  all  matters  of  importance,  and  was  expected  to 
a  certain  extent  to  act  upon  its  advice.  The  ^rcat 
Council,  as  it  was  styled,  was  composed  of  the  highest 
dignitaries  of  the  island,  both  Christian  and  Mussulman, 
residing  in  the  capital  ;  prominent  among  them  being 
the  Turkish  Chief  Justice  (Mollah),  and  the  Greek 
Archbishop  of  Cyprus.  The  Pasha  communicated  the 
Caimakam's  report  to  the  Great  Council,  and  asked 
what  was  to  be  done  in  the  matter.  The  Council,  after 
due  deliberation,  advised  the  Governor-General  to  stop 
further  excavations,  and  to  apply  to  Constantinople  for 
instructions.  In  accordance  with  this  advice  I  received 
a  few  days  later  an  official  despatch  from  his  Excellency. 
informing  me  of  the  Council's  decision,  and  enclosing  in 
it,  for  my  consideration,  a  copy  of  the  Masbatta  or  docu- 
ment he  had  received  from  the  Council  on  the  subject. 


CHAP.  V.]    INTERFERENCE  OF  GOVERNOR-GENERAL.  147 

He  added  that  he  had  received  my  letter  requesting  the 
loan  of  twelve  tents  for  the  use  of  my  diggers  while  at 
Aghios  Photios,  and  that  he  had  given  orders  that  they 
should  he  sent  to  me  without  delay  ;  the  incongruity  of 
this  with  the  official  despatch  was  thoroughly  Turkish. 

At  the  time  of  these  discoveries  (1869)  there  was  not, 
as  now,  telegraphic  communication  between  Cyprus 
and  the  capital  of  the  Turkish  Empire,  and  I  knew  that 
more  than  a  month  would  be  required  before  any 
answrer  concerning  my  diggings  could  arrive,  should  the 
Porte  be  disposed,  by  extraordinary  reports  of  their 
importance,  to  suspend  or  revoke  my  firman,  and  there- 
fore I  took  the  matter  quite  coolly. 

Not  having  time  just  then  to  enter  into  a  lengthy 
correspondence  with  the  Pasha  in  order  to  show  that 
neither  he  nor  his  Council  had  any  right  (though  they 
might  have  the  power)  to  interfere  with  my  excavations, 
and  that  on  my  part  there  was  not  the  slightest  inten- 
tion of  giving  them  up,  I  ignored  altogether  the  first 
part  of  his  Excellency's  letter,  and  thanked  him  very 
profusely  for  his  kindness  in  sending  me  the  required 
tents,  which  had  arrived  safely,  and  assured  him  that 
my  poor  diggers  were  most  grateful  to  him  for  thus 
sheltering  them  from  the  cold  nights. 

I  knew  from  long  intercourse  with  Turkish  officials 
that  the  Pasha  would  take  his  time  to  write  to  me 
again  on  the  subject,  though  we  were  only  two  hours 
distant  from  each  other,  and  indeed,  ten  days  elapsed 
before  I  heard  from  his  Excellency  again.  His  next 
letter  acknowledged  the  receipt  of  mine,  but  called  my 
attention  to  the  fact  that  I  had  forgotten  to  mention  whe- 
ther I  had  received  the  Masbatta  of  his  Council,  and 
whether  I  had  ceased  excavating  at  Aghios  Photios. 

In  cases  like  this,  I  always  found  the  Turkish  system 
of  epistolary  correspondence  very  convenient  and  con- 
sequently allowed  another  long  week  to  pass  before 


148  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  V. 

answering.  Then  I  wrote,  that  I  had  in  fact  received 
the  document  referred  to  in  his  letter,  and  soon  hoped 
to  have  the  pleasure  of  informing  him  that  I  had  dis- 
continued my  excavations  at  Aghios  Photios,  but  that 
should  I  do  so  it  would  be  merely  in  order  to  be  agree- 
able to  him,  and  not  in  the  least  as  a  recognition  of 
any  right  on  the  part  of  the  great  Council  of  Nicosia  to 
interfere  in  the  affairs  of  the  American  Consul. 

Thus  my  weekly  correspondence  with  the  Governor- 
General  lasted  until  my  explorations  at  Golgoi  were 
entirely  completed,  and  then  I  complied  with  his  re- 
quest. Pending  the  official  correspondence  I  hastened 
to  procure  a  number  of  ox-carts  and  camels  from 
Nicosia  and  Larnaca,  for  the  speedy  removal  of  the 
objects  to  my  residence,  where  I  knew  they  would  be 
safe  under  the  American  flag. 

This  proved  to  be  no  very  easy  undertaking,  as  the 
ground  over  which  the  two-wheeled  carts  of  native 
manufacture  had  to  pass  was  very  uneven,  and  in  some 
cases  deeply  ploughed.  Besides,  there  was  a  steep  hill 
to  be  got  over,  which  even  with  the  sure-footed  mule 
of  Cyprus,  one  prefers  to  do  on  foot.  Indispensable 
repairs  also  had  to  be  made  in  the  route  I  had  traced, 
in  order  that  the  carts  might  safely  reach  the  Larnaca 
road  from  my  encampment. 

The  most  difficult  obstacle  to  overcome  was  that  of 
"•ettin^  the  carts  over  the  hill,  which  the  ox-drivers 

CD  ir> 

were  unanimous  in  agreeing  was  an  impossibility. 
I  accompanied  the  first  convoy  by  this  route,  and  found 
the  best  plan  was  on  reaching  the  top  of  the  hill,  to 
remove  the  wheels  of  the  waggon,  place  them  upon 
the  camels  provided  for  the  purpose,  together  with  a 
portion  of  the  sculptures,  and  the  waggons  being  thus 
lightened,  to  let  them  be  dragged  like  sledges  down  the 
declivity,  when  the  wheels  and  the  sculptures  being 
replaced,  the  waggons  could  without  further  difficulty 


CHAP.  V.] 


REMOVAL    OF    SCULPTURES. 


I4g 


reach   Larnaca.      This  succeeded  admirably,   but  it  was 
tiresome  and  expensive 


Stone  l.ns-relief  with  Banquet. 


Early  in  the  week  follow- 
ing that  of  almost  pro- 
fitless excavations,  so  far 
as  regarded  the  findings, 
a  votive-tablet  in  calcareous 
stone,  15  inches  by  10,  was 
discovered,  with  a  sketch  of 
a  convivial  scene  in  the  lower 
field,  and  a  religious  ceremony 
in  the  upper.  There  were 
also  other  tablets,  mostly 
fractured,  having  has  reliefs 
and  inscriptions  in  Cypriote 
characters  ;  eight  feet  from 
the  eastern  wall  I  found  a  row 
of  five  great  square  blocks  of 
stone,  exactly  ten  feet  apart, 
which  had  been  either  pede- 
stals or  bases  of  pillars.  On 
one  of  these  blocks  were  still 
remaining  the  feet  of  two  large 


CYPRUS. 


[CHAP.  V. 


statues  which  must  have  stood  back  to  back,  since  the 
heels  touched  each  other.  Near  the  north  and  south  walls 
many  stone  pedestals  were  disposed  in  the  same  manner 
as  those  found  along  the  eastern  wall,  and  in  close 
proximity  were  some  fine  statues  in  an  excellent  state  of 
preservation,  one  of  which,  life-size,  had  escaped  decapi- 
tation in  its  fall,  and  is  crowned  with  a  triple  wreath. 
Its  beard  is  curled  after  the  fashion  of  the  beards  in 
the  human-headed  bulls  from  Nineveh  with  which  Mr. 
Layard  has  enriched  the  British  Museum,  and  its  dress 
is  disposed  in  regular  folds.  In  one  hand  it  holds  a 
small  round  box,  and  with  the  other  a  dove  by  the 
wings.  The  feet  were  broken  oft",  but  lay  near.  On 
it;-,  face  is  a  curious  smile  mingled  with  cunning,  very 
different  from  the  expression  of  dignity  and  repose 
which  characterises  the  others. 

\Vhen  we  had  arrived  at  the  centre  of  the  temple  a 
thick  layer  of  ashes  was  found  with  some  large  pieces  of 

carbonized  wood,  a 
specimen  of  which  is 
now  deposited  in  the 
New  York  Museum. 
This  layer,  as  far  as 
I  could  ascertain, 
measured  ten  feet  in 
length  and  seven  in 
width.  From  among 
the  ashes  I  picked 
up  a  little  alabaster  vase  and  two  clay  figurines  ot  horse- 
men similar  to  those  found  in  the  tombs  at  Alambra  and 
Dali.  As  soon  as  I  became  aware  that  all  the  sculp- 
tures lay  nine  feet  below  the  surface,  and  that  nothing 
would  be  met  with  until  that  depth  had  been  reached, 
I  had  the  earth  removed  much  more  rapidly  than  at 
the  beginning.  The  work  was  thus  continued  until  we 
approached  the  western  wall,  where,  trom  the  idea  I 


PAS  RELIEFS    WITH    CYPRIOTE    INSCRIPTIONS. 


CHAP.  V.] 


EXPLORATION     OF    TEMPLE. 


had  formed  as  to  the  original  arrangement  of  the 
statues  in  the  temple,  I  expected  to  reap  another 
harvest,  and  I  was  not  disappointed. 

One  morning,  however,  the  men  who  were  digging- 
near  the  south  wall  reported  the  discontinuance  of  it  as 
well  as  of  the  line  of  pedestals,  while  on  the  opposite 
side  both  were  still  being  followed.  I  jumped  into  the 
trench  in  which  the  men  were  working,  and  after 
examining  the  spot  with  attention,  saw  that  the  wall 
had  once  existed,  but  had  been  destroyed.  On  return- 
ing to  the  surface  I  perceived 
that  we  had  met  one  of  the 
trenches  opened  by  the  former 
explorers,  by  whom  the  re- 
mainder of  this  wall  had  been 
destroyed.  It  seems  strange 
that  having  met  with  this  por- 
tion of  it,  they  did  not  follow 
it  up,  but  apparently  preferred 
digging  outside  the  enclosure 
without  obtaining  any  results. 

At  the  end  of  five  weeks 
from  the  commencement  of 
our  work  we  found  ourselves 
twenty-two  feet  from  the 
eastern  wall,  and  had  again 
the  pleasure  of  discovering 
imbedded  in  the  earth  a  mass 
ol  statues  and  heads,  some 
ol  which  were  more  than  life 
size.  Such  surprises  give  the 
men  new  spirits.  They  be- 
come weary  and  disheartened 
when  nothing  is  found  for 
several  days.  I  was  now  obliged  to  re-employ  those  (  f 
the  water-carriers  with  whom  I  had  f()]-  the  time  dis- 


152 


CYPRUS. 


pensed,  and  even  to  increase  their  number  to  ten,  as  I 
was  anxious  on  more  than  one  account  to  hasten  the 
termination  of  these  labours. 

The  Greek  Easter-week  was  fast  approaching,  and 
during  it  no  money  could  induce  my  Greek  diggers  to 
continue  working.  I  was  therefore  very  glad  when  six 
days  afterwards  we  reached  the  western  wall.  The 
sculpture  found  on  this  side  shows  a  marked  Greek 
character,  and  includes  one  of  the  finest  of  the  statues 
obtained  from  this  temple. 

It  is  of  heroic  size,  and  probably  represents  a  priest, 
holding  in  one  hand  a  box  and  in  the  other  a  patera. 
There  is  an  attempt  to  detach  the  forearm  from  the 
body  ;  a  cylindrical  piece  of  stone  has  been  left  to 
support  the  arm  and  connect  it  with  the  body.  The 
preservation  is  perfect.  The  character  and  exquisite 


workmanship   of   the    head    attracted    the    attention    of 
Mr.  Kuskin,  who  visited  it  on  several    days,  in  order  to 


CHAP.  V.] 


SCULPTURES    OF    COLGOI. 


153 


make  a  drawing  of  it  while  the  Golgoi  Collection  was 
in  London.  Among  the  many  statues  of  Greek  style 
are  two  here  engraved,  which  seem  to  belong  to  a 
late  period.  A  fine  Greek  head,  found  lying  near  this 
wall,  is  characterised  by  intellectual  features,  and  the 
intense  individuality  of  a  portrait.  It  is  supposed, 
not  without  some  reason,  to  be  that  of  the  Cypriote 
philosopher  Zeno.  The  face  is  corrugated  by  deep 
lines  of  care  and  thought,  and  presents  a  striking 


Head  of  Priest.  (?) 


Head  of  Zeno.  (?) 


contrast  to  the  smooth  and  rounded  though  massive 
features  of  the  others. 

I  should  mention  as  a  peculiarity  which  occurs  in  one 
of  the  stone  statuettes,  representing  Diana  (Artemis) 
with  long  drapery,  that  the  cornea  of  the  eyes  is  cut  in 
ivory  and  inserted  ;  the  pupils  had  probably  been  inlaid 
with  precious  stones  or  enamel,  but  thev  no  longer  exist. 

A  statuette,  about  4,',  feet  high,  representing  a  muse 
with  a  lyre,  is  remarkable  for  the  graceful  position  oi 
the  arms  holding  the  instrument.  Unfortunately  the 
head  had  been  broken  off,  and  could  not  be  discovered. 


CYPRUS. 


[CHAP.  V. 


Another  statue  of  much  interest  was  one  which  re- 
presents an  Egyptian  warrior.  The  head  is  covered  by 
a  helmet,  the  top  of  which  terminates  in  two  large  lotus 
flowers  ;  several  necklaces  adorn  the  breast,  and  on 
both  arms  are  sculptured  armlets.  On  the  front  of  the 
dress,  halfway  clown,  is  designed  an  eye  about  two  inches 


long,  beneath  which  is  a  head  with  two  snakes  issuing 
from  the  mouth,  under  which  thev  coil.  A  quiver 
seems  to  have  been  slum;"  over  the  shoulder.  Xot  less 
interesting  is  the  portion  of  a  statue  of  life  size  repre- 
senting a  warrior  in  a  kneeling  attitude,  as  it  drawing  a 
bow.  13 v  his  side  is  a  quiver  embellished  with  a  lion's 


CHAP.  V.I 


SCULPTURES    OF    GOLGOI. 


155 


head  in  relief,  and  full  of  arrows;  it  is  suspended  from  a 
belt;  beneath  the  quiver  hangs  a  dagger.  The  position 
of  this  statue  is  somewhat  similar  to  the  figure  of 
Teucer  on  the  coins  of  Salamis. 


Near  the  centre  of  the  wall  three  very  curious  groups 
were  found,  one  of  which  is  3  feet  5  inches  high, 
while  the  others  are  only  7  c/r  8  inches.  They  each 
represent  the  same  subject,  the  triple  Geryon.  The 
heads  of  the  largest  group  seem  to  have  been  struck  or] 
purposely  with  some  sharp  instrument,  and  the  necks 
and  shoulders  are  hacked  in  many  places.  Two  of  the 
backs  of  these  heads  only  could  be  found.  The  three 
round  shields  with  which  this  figure  is  armed  are 


156 


CYPRUS 


[CHAP.   V. 


ornamented  with  bas-reliefs  of  warriors,  some  of  whom 
are  Greek,  in  the  act  of  fighting.  One  of  these  three 
shields  has  been  damaged  by  sharp  cuts.  Below  the 
shields  appears  a  design  of  two  Egyptians  righting  with 
two  lions.  The  left  legs  are  represented  bare,  and 


The  Triple  ( 


advanced  as  in  the  act  of  marching  ;  the  right  are  in 
an  unfinished  state.  The  smaller  groups  also  seem  to 
have  been  the  subject  of  some  person's  antipathy,  and 
are  much  damaged  ;  one  or  two  of  the  heads,  however, 
remain. 

I  must   not   omit  to   mention   a   statuette,  probably  of 


CHAP.  V.] 


SCULPTURES    OF    GOLGOI. 


Venus,  which  has  this  peculiarity,  that  the  base  is 
supported  on  the  heads  of  two  Caryatides,  of  which, 
however,  only  the  heads  remain.  They  are  of  an 
Egyptian  character.  The 
goddess  is  arrayed  in  a 
long  robe,  the  ample  folds 
of  which  she  holds  back 
with  one  hand,  and  dis- 
plays her  sandaled  feet, 
while  in  the  other  hand 
she  seems  to  hold  a  lotus 
flower.  Three  graceful 
tresses  fall  on  either  side 
of  her  neck,  round  which 
are  a  string  of  beads  or 
pearls  with  an  amulet  as 
pendant ;  a  long  veil, 
surmounted  by  a  diadem, 
hangs  from  the  back  of 
her  head. 

Among    other    objects 
of    interest     were     large 
monolithic   lamps  in  the 
shape    of    little    temples 
about    I 8  inches    square, 
of  which   the   pediments 
and    columns  with   Ionic 
capitals    were     partly    in 
relief    and     partly    painted     in 
red.    They  bore  traces  of  having 
been   much  used.      There   were 
also  a  number  of   votive  offer- 
ings,   representing    eyes,    ears, 
noses,  faces,   lips,   thumbs,  feet, 
and  other  portions  of  the  human 
body    rudely    carved     in    stone, 


CYPRUS. 


[CHAP.  V 


showing  them  to  be  from  the  poorer  classes,  not 
unlikely  the  lepers,  of  whom  there  are  still  some  in  the 
island,  and  of  whom  I  shall  have  occasion  to  speak 
afterwards.  These  offerings  were  all  found  in  one  spot, 


as  if  placed  before  an  altar  or  some  particular  divinity 
supposed  to  possess  the  power  of  preventing  or  healing 
certain  diseases. 

Near  the  north  entrance,  between  the  first  and  second 
rows  of  large  square  blocks  or  pedestals,  was  another 

kind  of  votive  offering  con- 
sisting of  little  stone  groups 
of  women  holding  and  some- 
times suckling  babes,  and 
of  cows  and  other  ani- 
mals similarly  occupied  with 
their  young.  Another  group, 
badly  defaced,  consisted  of 
four  persons,  one  holding  a 
newly  born  babe,  while  the 
mother,  extended  upon  a 

sort  of  chair,  her  lace  still  convulsed  by  pain,  has  her 
head  supported  by  an  attendant.  Another  group,  in 
no  better  preservation,  exhibited  a  like  scene  in  the 
vaccine  race.  In  the  close  proximity  of  these  offer- 


CHAP.  V.] 


SCULPTURES    OF    GOLGOI. 


159 


ings  was  found  the  base  or  lower  part  of  a  cone  in 
blue  granite,  which  Mr.  Georges  Ceccaldi  recognises 
as  a  fragment  of  the  symbol  of  Venus.  A  stone 
arm-chair  was  also  found  within  the  area,  and  near 
it  two  foot-stools  of  stone,  the  smaller  of  which  mea- 
sures 3  feet  by  12  inches,  and  is  ornamented  only 
on  the  front  by  two  large  rosettes  and  a  lion  killing 
a  stag  in  low  relief.  The  same  subject  is  represented 


Foot-stool.     Oblong.     Lion  devouring  Bull. 


Foot-stool.     Oblnng.     Chimsera. 

on  silver  coins  of  Citium.      The  larger  one  has  on  the 
front  a  relief  of  the  Chimera. 

I  was  struck  with  the  order  which  was  evident  in  the 
original  arrangement  of  the  sculptures  in  this  temple, 
the  statues,  as  I  have  before  remarked,  being  ranged 
according  to  the  art  or  nationality  they  represented 
the  Egyptian  by  themselves,  the  Assyrian  in  like 
manner,  and  the  Greek  and  Roman  near  the  western 
wall,  the  tablets  with  bas-reliefs  and  inscriptions  by 
themselves,  and  the  different  votive  offerings  chissed 


i6o 


CYPRUS. 


[CHAP.  V. 


according  to  their  nature,   and  probably  placed   before 
their  appropriate  divinities. 

That  these  are  the  ruins  of  a  temple,  the  inscriptions 
and   votive   tablets    place    beyond    doubt,    but    in    what 


fashion  it  was  built,  it  is  very  difficult  to  say.  Had  it 
not  been  roofed,  the  surface  of  the  statues  would  now 
show  traces  of  exposure  to  the  elements.  Yet  how  the 
roof  was  supported  can  onlv  be  conjectured,  since  but 
two  capitals  of  columns  were  found. 


PLATE     XIII. 


STATUK    OF    1'RIKST,  WITH    HKAD    OF    HUM.. 
Height,  7  feet  3  inches. 


CHAP.  VI.]    HOW   THE   TEMPLE   WAS    DESTROYED.  163 

The  fact  that  no  gold  or  silver  objects  were  dis- 
covered among  the  ruins  would  lead  to  the  belief  that 
it  had  been  pillaged  and  destroyed ;  while  the  car- 
bonised wood  and  deep  layer  of  ashes  found  in  the 
centre  would,  on  the  other  hand,  give  rise  to  the 
impression  that  it  had  been  struck  by  lightning.  In 
that  case  the  cross  beams  and  rafters,  if  left  bare  (as 
is  still  the  custom  of  the  natives,  even  in  their  loftiest 
buildings),  would  be  fired  by  the  electricity,  and  these 
pieces  of  charred  wood,  to  some  of  which  there  were  still 
adhering  long  bronze  nails,  might  be  the  remains  of  the 
roof,  which  in  falling  would  have  thrown  down  the 
statues.  These  coming  in  contact  with  the  unpaved 
soil  were  but  little  injured.  The  mud  walls,  supported 
only  by  a  foundation  of  stone  2  feet  10  inches  high, 
would  of  course  soon  follow,  though  not,  perhaps,  before 
the  priests  could  remove  all  the  portable  objects  of 
value.  That  the  walls  fell  in,  is  proved  by  the  mass  of 
clay  and  triturated  straw  in  which  the  statues  were 
found  embedded.  They  had  become  so  consolidated 
by  sun  and  rain  as  to  render  their  excavation  very 
difficult.  Again,  the  destruction  of  the  temple  may 
have  been  caused  by  the  shock  of  an  earthquake, 
such  as  was  in  antiquity  and  still  is  a  not  un- 
frequent  occurrence  in  the  island.  All,  however,  is 
mere  conjecture,  but  the  fact  that  the  different  epochs 
of  art  contained  within  the  temple  cover  a  long  line  of 
years. 

On  the  Saturday  noon  preceding  the  Greek  Easter- 
week,  I  fortunately  and  most  happily  terminated  my 
excavations  at  Golgoi.  The  tents  were  struck,  the 
ground  all  levelled  again,  and  the  diggers  having  been 
dismissed,  returned  to  their  villages  in  gay  spirits  and 
with  their  purses  well  filled.  Having  lost  no  time  in 
returning  the  tents  to  the  Pasha,  with  my  renewed 
thanks,  and  the  information  that  I  had  discontinued  my 


1 64 


CYPRUS. 


[CHAP.  VI. 


diggings  at  Aghios  Photios,  I  returned  once  more 
to  my  family,  and  the  never  failing  delight  of  ex- 
amining and  studying  my  newly  discovered  treasures, 
which  every  day  brought  to  light  some  new  cause  of 
wonder. 


CHAPTER    VI. 

The  Cretan  revolution.- — Cypriotes  holding  Greek  passports  ordered 
to  leave  the  island  within  twenty  days.  — -Protection  of  the  Greek 
colony  of  Cyprus. — The  Greeks  of  Cyprus  and  the  Hellenic 
Government  thank  General  Cesnola. — The  Grand  Yi/.ier  asks  for 
his  recall  without  success. — Had  faith  and  abuse  of  power  by  the 
Turks. — Refusal  to  allow  the  exportation  of  the  Antiquities. — The 
Turks  circumvented  and  the  collection  shipped. 

PENDING  my  excavations  at  Aghios  Photios,  the 
revolution  in  Candia  had  occasioned  a  rupture  of  the 
diplomatic  relations  between  Turkey  and  Greece. 
The  native  Cypriotes  who  possessed  Greek  passports, 
(easily  obtained  by  a  visit  to  Athens,)  and  had  been 
duly  recognised  bv  the  Turkish  authorities  as  subjects 
of  the  King  of  Greece,  were  in  a  great  state  of  trepidation 
lest  they  should  be  expelled  from  the  island  without  a 
day's  warning.  The  Greek  Consul  had  himself  come 
to  Aghios  Photios  several  times  during  my  stay  there 
to  consult  with  me  and  ask  for  advice  in  the  matter. 
During  the  several  meetings  of  the  Consular  corps,  I 
endeavoured  to  effect  something  in  behalf  of  these  per- 
plexed people,  but  without  avail,  as  the  Consuls  had 
received  positive  orders  from  their  respective  Govern- 
ments not  to  interfere,  though  personally  some  of  them 
were  anxious  to  assist  them  as  much  as  lay  in  their 
power.  A  few  days  after  my  return  to  Larnaca  the 
Governor-General  received  an  order  from  the  Porte, 
which  he  immediately  communicated  to  the  Consuls,  to 


1 66  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  VI. 

the  effect  that  all  Greek  subjects  residing  in  Cyprus 
should  leave  the  island  within  twenty  days.  Mr. 
Georges  Menardos,  the  then  Greek  Consul  in  Cyprus, 
received  instructions  from  his  Government  to  request 
one  of  his  colleagues  to  look  after  the  affairs  of  the 
Hellenic  colony,  then  to  lower  the  Greek  flag  and 
return  to  Greece. 

My  official  instructions  were  in  every  way  similar  to 
those  received  by  my  colleagues,  but  the  American 
Minister,  in  a  private  letter  to  me,  warmly  approved  of 
my  using  any  personal  influence  I  might  possess  with 
the  Turkish  authorities  to  diminish  the  distress  of  the 
Greeks.  As  Mr.  Menardos  had  begged  me  to  act  in 
the  interest  of  his  countrymen  during  these  twenty 
days,  I  received  the  Greek  Consular  archives,  and 
undertook  to  wind  up  all  the  commercial  matters 
between  the  Greek  and  Turkish  subjects,  which  was 
not  a  small  undertaking.  Mr.  Menardos  had  just 
wedded  a  wealthy  Cypriote  lady  and  did  not  desire  to 
leave  Cyprus,  but  offered  to  accept  the  post  of  private 
Secretary  to  me  for  the  time  being,  and  thus,  under 
another  title,  he  was  able  to  assist  me  in  the  affairs  of 
the  Greeks.  During  the  week  in  which  the  order  of  the 
Porte  had  been  promulgated,  the  Greeks  flocked  to  the 
American  Consulate  for  information  from  every  part  of 
the  island.  In  the  court-yard  and  the  square  in  front 
of  the  Consulate  was  a  crowd  of  old  men,  and  of  women 
with  infants  at  their  breast,  asking  lor  their  passports 
and  the  pecuniary  means  with  which  to  leave  the  island. 
I  had  no  funds  for  this  purpose,  nor  was  I  sufficiently 
rich  to  help  them  with  my  private  means  beyond  the 
daily  distribution  of  some  bread.  It  was  heartrending 
to  hear  of  all  the  distress  and  ruin  which  this  order  if 
carried  out  would  cause  to  these  unfortunate  people, 
who  would  be  obliged  to  leave  home  and  lands,  and  to 
sell  their  few  household  goods  and  trinkets  in  order  to 


CHAP.  VI.]  THE    CRETAN     REVOLUTION.  167 

reach  the  shores  of  Greece,  where  utter  poverty  would 
stare  them  in  the  face.  My  own  conviction  was  that  the 
Great  Powers  would  never  allow  their  two  proteges  to 
go  to  war.  Why,  then,  should  these  poor  people  be 
forced  to  leave  all  they  possessed  and  go  begging  in  a 
strange  land  ?  For  several  clays  I  was  occupied  in 
endeavouring  to  find  some  method  by  which  the  neces- 
sity of  obeying  this  cruel  order  might  be  averted,  and 
the  Governor-General  be  persuaded  to  leave  these 
miserable  villagers  unmolested  in  their  homes.  I  re- 
solved to  start  for  Nicosia,  and  to  have  a  talk  with  him 
on  the  subject.  Said  Pasha  was  an  intelligent  Turk, 
who  spoke  French  fluently,  and  was  not  devoid  of  all 
human  feeling  towards  the  Christians.  His  great  am- 
bition was  to  be  a  popular  ruler,  and  I  knew  that  to 
succeed  with  him  I  must  touch  this  powerful  spring. 
He  knew  that  I  had  had  charge  of  the  Greek  interests 
in  Cyprus  since  the  withdrawal  of  the  Consul  of  Greece, 
and  that  the  latter  was  acting  as  my  clerk.  His 
Excellency  had  already  sent  orders  to  all  his  Caimakams 
to  act  in  concert  with  me  in  winding  up  the  monetary 
affairs  of  the  Greeks  without  delay.  The  Turkish 
judges,  as  might  have  been  expected,  were  very  prompt 
in  settling  those  transactions  in  which  their  countrymen 
had  anything  to  receive,  but  threw  many  difficulties  in 
the  way  where  the  opposite  was  the  case.  I  had  caused 
several  of  the  Greeks  to  pay  their  debts,  and  therefore 
declared  to  the  local  authorities  that  no  Greek  should 
leave  the  island  while  any  Turk  was  indebted  to  him. 
Said  Pacha  issued  stringent  orders  to  the  same  effect. 
For  two  weeks  my  four  dragomans  were  constantly 
employed  before  the  Turkish  tribunals  in  these  matters. 
The  number  of  debts  due  to  the  Turkish  subjects 
proved,  however,  to  be  considerably  the  larger.  I 
became  aware  then,  for  the  first  time,  of  the  manner  in 
which  these  poor  creatures  were  obliged  to  borrow 


1 68  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  VI. 

money  from  year  to  year  at  an  interest  of  20  to  25  per 
cent.,  in  order  to  live  and  cultivate  their  lands,  mort- 
gaging to  the  money-lender  their  crops  in  advance.  As 
the  corn  at  this  season  had  not  yet  come  into  maturity, 
they  had  no  money  or  means  by  which  to  pay  their 
Turkish  creditors,  and  if  they  were  expelled  within  the 
twenty  days  prescribed  by  the  Porte,  all  their  crops 
would  be  ruined.  The  common  interest  of  the  debtor 
and  creditor  was  that  the  Greeks  should  not  leave  the 
island  until  after  harvest  time,  and  on  this  I  built  my 
hopes,  knowing  that  could  this  be  effected  the  Governor- 
General  would  gain  much  popularity  with  a  large  and 
influential  class  of  his  Ottoman  subjects,  whose  principal 
occupation  is  to  lend  money  to  the  peasants  and  to 
receive  grain  in  its  stead,  with  which  they  carry  on  an 
extensive  trade  in  Europe  and  the  Levant.  These  facts 
I  brought  so  forcibly  before  the  Pasha  on  my  arrival  in 
Nicosia,  that  (added  to  a  petition  I  advised  the  Turkish 
money-lenders  to  send  to  him  on  the  same  subject,) 
they  had  the  desired  effect. 

I  affected  at  first  to  be  even  more  anxious  than  he 
was  that  all  the  Greeks  should  leave  Cyprus  within  the 
specified  time,  and  asked  him  what  means  of  trans- 
port he  had  provided  for  those  families  ;  there  were 
many  who  were  too  poor  to  pay  their  passage  to 
Greece  !  I  explained  to  him  how  utterly  impossible  it 
was  for  them  to  pay  their  debts  to  his  Turkish  subjects, 
and  then,  appealing  to  his  weak  point,  told  him  how 
much  good  he  had  done  in  the  island,  which  was  quite 
true,  and  how  both  Turks  and  Christians  highly 
esteemed  him.  I  showed  him  the  improbability  of  the 
Great  Powers  permitting  a  war  to  take  place  between 
Turkey  and  Greece,  and  asked  why  he  should  execute 
an  order  which  would  injure  his  popularity,  and  be 
the  cause  of  so  much  harm,  and  which  must  soon  be 
revoked  ?  "  I  see,"  said  the  Pasha,  "  vou  are  reallv  mv 


CHAP.  VI.J    THE  GREEKS  ORDERED  TO  LEAVE  CYPRUS.    l6g 

friend,  but  how  can  I  refuse  to  obey  an  order  which,  as 
you  know,  is  not  only  for  Cyprus,  but  the  entire  Empire? 
What  would  you  have  me  do  1  "  — "  Ask  for  instructions 
at  Constantinople,"  said  I.  His  Excellency  smiled 
ironically,  and  I  saw  that  he  understood.  It  was  at 
last  agreed  between  us  that  no  steps  would  be  taken  by 
him  against  the  Greeks,  even  after  the  twenty  days  had 
expired,  without  informing  me  previously. 

News  of  a  prolongation  of  the  time  for  another 
twenty  days  arrived  by  the  next  steamer.  Before  it 
expired  the  war  clouds  had  passed  away,  and  not  one 
single  Greek  subject  was  obliged  to  leave  the  island 
against  his  will.  But  in  the  .other  provinces  of  the 
Turkish  Empire,  the  Greeks  had  not  met  with  such 
lenient  treatment.  At  Beirut,  for  instance,  the  Greek- 
Consul  even  was  ta.ken  out  of  his  bed  by  force,  and 
placed  on  board  the  Austrian  steamer  which  was 
leaving  for  Greece  by  way  of  Cyprus,  Rhodes,  and 
Smyrna,  and  the  next  day,  when  the  steamer  anchored 
before  Larnaca,  he  landed  and  came  to  pay  me  a  visit. 
Mr.  Molino's  astonishment  may  well  be  imagined  when 
he  saw  his  colleague,  Mr.  Menardos,  quietly  seated  at 
a  desk  in  my  chancdlcric,  transacting  his  usual  consular 
business.  I  may  here  mention  that  the  Greek  colony 
in  Cyprus,  and  its  own  Government,  afterwards  gave  me 
many  tokens  of  their  appreciation  of  the  little  I  did  on  this 
occasion  for  them,  and  yet  I  merely  paid  a  family  debt 
of  gratitude  to  that  people  for  their  kind  and  generous 
treatment  of  my  uncle,  Count  Alerino  Palma,  who  in 
the  unsuccessful  Piedmontese  Revolution  of  1821,  being 
one  of  its  chiefs,  was  sentenced  to  death,  executed  in 
effigy,  all  his  property  confiscated,  and  who,  taking 
refuge  in  Greece,  found  there  both  a  high  position  and 
a  home  till  he  died. 

My  successful  interference  in  favour  of  the  G reek- 
colony  of  Cyprus,  and  an  imprudent  publication  in  some 


170  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  VI. 

of  the  Greek  newspapers,  that  in  the  event  of  war  with 
Turkey  I  would  accept  the  proffered  command  of  the 
Greek  cavalry  forces,  attracted  upon  my  head  the 
thunderbolts  of  the  Grand  Vizier,  Aali  Pasha,  who 
was  determined  to  have  me  either  dismissed,  or  at  least 
recalled  from  Cyprus,  and  an  official  demand  of  that 
nature  reached  \Yashington  some  time  afterwards. 
Some  spicy  correspondence  ensued  between  the  United 
States  and  the  Turkish  Government  on  the  subject,  but 
as  there  had  been  no  act  of  mine  which  could  be  shown 
to  the  satisfaction  of  Mr.  Seward  to  have  been  per- 
formed in  my  official  capacity  of  American  Consul,  the 
whole  matter  dropped. 

As  soon  as  the  Greek  question  ceased  to  absorb  my 
time,  I  began  seriously  to  consider  what  disposition  I 
should  make  of  all  my  treasures.  My  house  at 
Larnaca,  and  the  adjoining  warehouses  which  I  rented 
for  the  purpose,  were  literally  filled  with  antiquities. 
In  the  absence  of  a  photographer  I  studied  the  art 
of  photography,  and  sent  representations  of  the  most 
important  objects  of  my  collection  to  the  museums  of 
Paris  and  London.  The  Emperor  Napoleon  became 
at  once  interested,  and  had  decided  to  purchase  the 
whole  ot  my  discoveries  and  present  them  to  the 
Louvre,  when  the  Franco-German  war  put  an  end  to 
the  negotiations.  One  of  the  employes  of  the  Russian 
Museum  at  St.  Petersburg  visited  Cyprus,  expressly  to 
make  a  catalogue  of  my  discoveries,  which  he  published 
on  his  return  home  (Doell  :  Die  Sammlung  Cesnola). 
Parties  in  England  strongly  encouraged  me  to  send  the 
whole  collection  to  London.  Meanwhile  it  proved  the 
chief  attraction  to  all  travellers  touching  at  Cyprus,  who 
would  frequently  insist  upon  seeing  it  in  season  and  out 
of  season,  and  I  was  consequently  at  times  not  a  little 
annoyed. 

The  well-known  Cook's  parties  would  arrive  in  scores, 


CHAP.  VI.]  VISITS    OF   TOURISTS.  171 

and  taking  possession  of  my  garden  and  court-yard, 
persist  in  seeing  the  "  Museum  "  of  the  American 
Consul.  Should  I  happen  to  be  present,  thousands  of 
questions  would  be  asked,  some  of  which  would  not 
always  admit  of  an  answer.  Once  an  elderly  English 
lady  with  the  proverbial  ringlets,  who  belonged  to  one 
of  these  parties,  after  attentively  examining  the  Golgoi 
statues  for  some  time,  asked  me  in  the  gravest  manner 
if  I  would  be  so  kind  as  to  explain  to  her  the  mysteries 
of  the  worship  of  Venus !  When  great  numbers  were 
admitted  to  inspect  my  discoveries,  it  was  not  always 
possible  to  keep  visitors  from  handling  the  small  objects 
which  were  all  lying  on  tables  and  shelves,  and  I  am 
sorry  to  say  that  sometimes  the  objects  did  not  always 
find  their  way  back  to  their  legitimate  places.  It  is  a 
strange  truth  that  there  are  people,  apparently  respect- 
able, who  think  nothing  of  pocketing  antiquities  not 
belonging  to  them,  or  of  breaking  off  pieces  of  sculpture 
in  order  to  carry  them  away  as  trophies  to  their 
homes. 

The  Governor-General  one  day,  while  conversing 
with  me  about  my  discoveries,  remarked  that  as  in  my 
firman  it  was  not  specified  that  I  could  send  them 
away,  he  not  only  could  not  permit  me  to  transport 
them  out  of  the  island,  but  had  received  positive  orders 
to  forbid  their  embarkation.  I  inquired  of  the  Pasha 
under  what  custom-house  conditions  or  taxation  the 
Porte  would  allow  me  to  export  them  to  America. 
"  Under  none  that  I  am  aware  of,"  said  he  ;  "you  have 
asked  for  a  firman  to  dig,  which  has  been  granted,  but 
not  to  transport !  I  asked  him  what  he  had  supposed 
had  been  my  intention  in  asking  for  that  firman  ?  That 
he  declared  himself  unable  to  say.  I  had  already  had 
reason  to  anticipate  some  trouble  with  the  Ottoman 
Government  in  regard  to  the  exportation  of  so  great  an 
amount  of  antiquities,  although  in  the  firmans  issued 


172  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  VI 

by  the  Porte  at  that  time,  no  stipulations  occurred, 
nor  was  it  in  any  way  implied  that  the  Turkish  Govern- 
ment should  be  entitled  to  any  findings  of  the  explorer, 
nor  that  any  special  permission  would  be  necessary  to 
export  them.  But  the  fame  of  my  success  had  already 
reached  Constantinople,  and  the  cupidity  of  the  Turk 
was  aroused. 

No  desire  for  the  advancement  of  science,  or  love  of 
art,  was  at  the  bottom  of  the  embargo  put  upon  the 
shipment  of  my  collection.  I  had  had  proof  some  years 
before  of  the  Turk's  interest  in  such  matters,  when  I 
had  requested  Mehemet  Kaiserly  Pasha,  the  then 
Governor-General  of  the  Archipelago,  to  take  charge  of 
two  large  cases  of  antiquities,  which  I  had  destined  as 
a  present  to  the  Ottoman  Museum.  His  Excellency 
promptly  accepted  the  care  of  them,  and  promised  to 
see  them  delivered,  but  these  cases,  after  travelling  as 
far  as  the  Dardanelles,  the  official  residence  of  Kaiserly 
Pasha,  never  reached  Constantinople,  and  I  should  not 
be  surprised  if  he  had  sent  them  instead  to  some  dealer 
in  antiquities,  as  in  spite  of  all  the  inquiries  instituted 
at  my  request  by  the  American  Legation,  no  trace  of 
them  could  ever  be  found. 

On  a  subsequent  visit  to  Constantinople,,  I  went  in 
company  with  the  American  Minister  and  Dr.  Dethier, 
who  has  charge  of  that  lumber-room  styled  the  Im- 
perial Museum,  to  see  if  I  could  recognise  among  the 
heaps  of  objects  there  any  of  the  pieces  I  had  sent,  but 
failed  to  find  any  of  them.  In  Europe  or  in  the  United 
States,  the  Government  would  have  asked  the  person 
who  had  charge  of  the  cases  what  he  did  with  them  ; 
but  not  so  in  Turkey,  when  the  person  is  an  ex-Cabinet 
Minister,  and  may  be  a  future  Grand  Vizier.  Knowing 
therefore  that  the  collection  in  my  possession  had  been 
acquired  by  me  in  the  most  legitimate  manner,  at  a 
cost  of  much  labour,  study,  and  money,  and  was  as 


CHAP.  VI.l    INTERFERENCE   OF   GOVERNOR-GENERAL.        173 

thoroughly  my  property  as  any  thing  ever  could  be 
the  property  of  anyone,  and  that  the  quibble  now  put 
forward  by  the  Turks  was  only  instigated  by  their  usual 
bad  faith,  where  their  interest  or  passions  supervene, 
I  decided  to  pack  up  everything,  and  if  need  be,  to 
embark  them  by  force,  knowing  how  useless  it  would  be 
to  make  any  application  for  justice  in  the  matter  to 
Aali  Pasha,  with  his  personal  feelings  towards  me. 

I  applied  to  our  Secretary  of  the  Navy  for  a  man-of- 
war  to  convey  my  collections  to  the  United  States, 
which  he  very  kindly  promised  to  send  and  gave 
orders  to  the  commander  of  the  American  Squadron  in 
the  Mediterranean  to  that  effect,  but  the  opportunity  of 
chartering  a  vessel,  which  is  of  very  rare  occurrence  in 
Cyprus,  happening  soon  after  I  had  packed  all  my 
antiquities,  I  decided  not  to  let  it  escape,  and  there- 
fore wrote  to  the  Governor-General,  that  I  desired  to 
know  whether  he  intended  to  prevent  the  shipment  of 
my  collection  by  force.  In  reply  he  sent  me  a  copy  of 
the  Grand  Vizier's  despatch  sent  to  him  some  months 
before,  when  he  had  asked  what  action  he  should  take 
in  regard  to  my  discoveries  at  Aghios  Photios.  In  this 
despatch  he  was  instructed  to  prevent  their  exportation. 
The  Pasha  added  that  he  hoped  I  would  not  place  him 
in  so  disagreeable  a  position.  The  schooner  I  had 
chartered  was  still  discharging  her  cargo,  and  for  some 
days  would  not  be  ready  to  receive  my  360  large  cases. 
I  made  sure  in  the  meantime  that  the  action  of  the 
Pasha  would  be  confined  to  a  written  protest,  and 
resolved  to  let  him  protest  as  much  as  he  pleased. 

Two  or  three  days  after  a  Turkish  ship-of-war  arrived 
unexpectedly  in  the  bay  with  some  political  prisoners. 
This  rather  disconcerted  me,  particularly  as  it  anchored 
almost  in  front  of  my  residence.  Nevertheless,  I  deter- 
mined, conic  quc  conic,  to  try  the  experiment,  and  sent 
mv  confidential  dragoman  Besbes  to  the  Director  of 


174  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  VI. 

the  Custom  House  to  request  an  order  from  him  for  the 
exportation  of  my  cases.  He  showed  him  a  telegram 
from  the  Porte  forbidding  the  American  Consul  to  ship 
anything,  and  regretted  his  inability  to  oblige  me,  but 
his  orders  were  positive,  and,  moreover,  this  was  the 
second  telegram  that  had  been  sent  to  him  on  the 
subject,  the  latter  one  having  arrived  that  very  morn- 
ing. I  confess  this  news  lent  rather  a  dark  view  to 
things.  There  were  my  boxes  all  ready  to  be  shipped, 
and  there  was  the  vessel  waiting  to  receive  them.  On 
the  other  hand  there  were  the  two  telegrams  forbidding 
it,  and  there  was  the  Turkish  corvette  lying  very  peace- 
fully just  then  in  full  view,  but  who  knew,  if  I  persisted, 
whether  she  might  remain  so  ?  Who  knew  what  orders 
the  Turkish  commander  might  have  received  ?  There 
was  the  protest  of  the  Governor-General.  This  last,  it 
is  true,  troubled  me  the  least. 

I  sat  pondering  moodily,  Besbes  looking  at  me 
through  his  great  blue  spectacles  with  his  red -rimmed 
eyes  and  impassible  aspect  (he  is  one  of  the  ugliest 
men  I  think  I  ever  saw,  but  at  the  same  time  one  of  the 
most  faithful).  "Besbes,"  said  I,  "these  antiquities 
must  and  shall  go  on  board  the  schooner  this  day  !  " 
Suddenly  I  saw  a  sort  of  twinkle  in  his  eyes,  and  a 
curious  expression  dawned  on  his  lips  as  he  said, 
looking  very  meekly  at  me,  "  Effendi,  those  telegrams 
are  to  prevent  the  American  Consul  from  shipping 
antiquities,"  and  then  he  stopped.  I  replied  with  some 
heat,  "  You  seem  to  take  pleasure  in  repeating  the  in- 
formation to  me-  I  should  think  I  ought  to  be  aware  of 
it  by  this  time."  Besbes  did  not  lose  a  particle  of  his 
equanimity,  but  only  said  still  more  meekly,  "There  was 
nothing  in  those  orders  about  the  Russian  Consul."  I 
understood  then  what  he  meant,  though  mv  Western 
civilization  would  never  have  arrived  at  this  truly 
oriental  solution  of  the  difficulty.  "  Right,"  I  cried  ; 


CHAP.  VI.]  EVASION    OF   TURKISH    ORDERS.  175 

"go  quickly  to  the  Custom  House,  and  tell  the  Director 
that  I  wish  to  see  his  two  telegrams."  Shortly  after- 
wards that  official  arrived,  and  very  politely  requested 
Besbes  to  read  and  to  translate  them  for  me.  When  he 
had  finished  I  asked,  "  Have  you  any  orders  to  pro- 
hibit the  Russian  Consul  from  exporting  antiquities  ?  " 
He  thought  for  a  moment,  read  his  orders  over,  and 
declared  that  they  were  clearly  for  the  American  Consul 
only,  and  admitted  that  he  could  not  refuse  to  give  me 
the  permission  should  I  ask  for  it  in  the  usual  official 
manner  as  Consul  for  Russia. 

Fifteen  minutes  after  this  I  had  the  order  in  my  hand, 
and  all  the  facchini  of  Lanarca  at  work  rapidly  remov- 
ing the  cases  to  the  lighters.  Five  hours  afterwards  all 
my  cases  were  on  board,  and  the  schooner,  now  laden 
to  the  water's  edge,  left  for  Alexandria,  where  they 
were  to  be  re-shipped  for  London.  As  I  thought  of  the 
heavy  cargo,  and  the  sudden  squalls  which  frequently 
arise  in  these  latitudes  at  that  time  of  the  year,  my 
heart  had  many  misgivings — all  my  treasures  were 
there,  and  not  one  piece  insured  !  My  faithful  Besbes 
accompanied  the  craft,  with  no  protection  against  the 
waves  or  Turkish  law  but  his  own  ingenuity,  and  the 
little  Greek  flag  which  floated  at  the  mast-head. 

One  whole  month  elapsed  before  I  knew  the  fate 
either  of  my  cargo  or  of  my  more  than  devoted  dragoman. 
At  the  end  of  this  time  the  face  of  Besbes  appeared  one 
morning  at  the  door  of  my  chancellerie,  elated  by  the 
entire  success  of  his  enterprise,  and  at  that  moment  it 
seemed  to  me  one  of  the  most  agreeable  faces  possible. 
My  fears  of  a  rough  sea  and  stormy  winds  had  not  been 
groundless.  Stress  of  weather  had  obliged  the  captain 
to  put  into  Port  Said  for  a  week,  and  on  his  arrival  at 
Alexandria,  no  steamer  being  in  port  for  London,  Besbes 
determined  not  to  abandon  his  charge,  but  to  wait  until 
he  could  see  everything  safely  transhipped. 


176 


CYPRUS. 


[CHAP.  VI. 


Said  Pasha  said  he  had  heard  nothing  of  the  matter 
until  his  arrival  in  Larnaca,  shortly  after,  on  his  way  to 
Constantinople,  whither  he  had  been  recalled.  In 
speaking  of  it  he  declared  that  the  whole  thing  had 
been  most  cleverly  managed,  and  that  it  was  a  pity  I 
had  not  been  born  a  Turk. 


CHAPTER    VII. 

Exploration  of  the  S.E.  coast  of  Cyprus. — Mode  of  travelling. — A 
modern  priest. — Ormidia. — An  extensive  necropolis. — No  traces 
of  dwelling-houses  or  temples.— -The  sites  of  Throni  and  Leucolla 
identified  by  the  author.  —  Ruins  of  Cataliina. — Mysterious  mono- 
lithic cone. — Discovery  of  five  cemeteries.  —  Famagosta  probably 
the  ancient  Arsinoe. — Criminals. — Kattirdj  Janni,  the  Robin  Hood 
of  the  Levant. — Salamis,  prison  and  tomb  of  St.  Catherine. — 
Church  of  St.  Barnabas. — Two  tumuli. — From  Salamis  to  Cape 
St.  Andreas  evidence  of  Phoenician  occupation. — Cemeteries  and 
ruins. — Mediaeval  castles. 

EARLY  in  the  spring  of  1872,  I  resolved  to  explore  as 
much  as  possible  of  the  south-east  coast  of  the  island, 
and  for  this  purpose  gave  orders  to  have  everything  put 
in  readiness  by  my  cavass  Mustafa,  to  whose  unwaver- 
ing and  affectionate  attention  during  eight  years'  service 
I  may  here  pay  tribute.  During  that  time  he  learned 
to  read  and  write  modern  Greek,  to  keep  accounts,  and 
to  speak  the  Italian  language  fluently.  He  combined  in 
his  person  butler,  valet,  dragoman,  and  consular  guard, 
and  was  honest}'  itself.  The  travelling  cook  whom  I 
employed  on  these  occasions  was  informed  of  the  length 
of  time  his  services  would  be  required;  the  tents  were 
put  in  order,  the  beds  and  bedding  aired  and  prepared, 
my  portmanteau  packed,  the  camp  stools,  dining  table, 
and  a  complete  dinner  service,  together  with  an  abun- 
dant supply  of  everything  necessary  for  a  healthy  and 
even  luxurious  table,  were  placed  upon  mules  and 
donkeys.  To  this  careful  attention  to  comfort,  and 


178  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  VII. 

the  avoidance  as  much  as  possible  of  change  of  diet 
and  daily  habits,  I  attribute  the  continuance  of  my 
health  during  these  trying  excursions,  in  the  course  of 
the  many  years  I  passed  in  Cyprus. 

I  found  it  in  the  end  more  convenient  and  less 
expensive  to  purchase  than  to  hire  animals,  and  in  this 
way  I  became  the  possessor  of  several  fine  well-broken 
mules  and  two  strong  donkeys,  as  high  almost  as 
horses,  of  a  breed  peculiar  to  Cyprus.  These  donkeys 
are  glossy  and  sleek,  with  large  eyes,  and  will  trot  as 
fast  as  a  mule  ;  they  are  besides  very  intelligent.  Thus 
provided  we  started  in  the  early  morning,  and  pro- 
ceeded eastward  for  two  hours,  quite  close  to  the  sea- 
shore, to  a  place  called  "  Palaeo  Castro,"  a  name  given 
by  the  natives  to  any  tumble  down  building,  whether 
titty  or  two  thousand  years  old.  Here  I  found  the 
stone  walls  of  an  oblong  structure,  not  older  than  the 
Venetian  occupation  of  the  island.  It  had  been  a  small 
fort  mounted  with  three  guns,  the  embrasures  of  which 
are  still  standing.  Along  the  south-east  coast  are 
several  of  these  guard-houses,  built  near  the  shore  on 
elevated  ground,  some  of  which,  now  dismantled  and 
roofless,  are  of  Turkish  construction,  and  two  or  three 
hundred  years  old.  Most  of  them  appear  to  have  been 
erected  for  the  protection  of  the  neighbouring  villages 
against  the  Algerine  pirates,  who  not  longer  ago  than 
sixtv  years  were  daring  enough  to  land  and  carry  off 
wealthy  inhabitants,  and  to  detain  them  until  the 
required  ransom  should  be  paid.  In  this  neighbour- 
hood is  still  pointed  out  the  pirates'  cave.  Contiguous 
to  the  fort  I  found  vestiges  of  an  ancient  town,  traces 
of  the  stone  wall  which  encircled  it,  and  small  square 
foundations  of  dwelling  houses. 

The  cemetery  is  just  outside  the  wall,  and  near  the 
sea-shore.  The  tombs  are  only  a  few  feet  below  the 
surface,  and  of  the  shape  usual  everywhere  in  Cyprus. 


CHAP.  VII.]  RESIDENCE    AT    ORMIDIA.  179 

Those  which  I  opened  contained  Roman  lamps,  glass, 
and  black  varnished  pottery  of  a  very  common  kind.  A 
little  east  of  the  fort  is  a  shapeless  mound,  apparently 
artificial,  which  I  found  to  contain  two  large  graves  of 
the  earliest  period.  From  one  of  them  I  extracted 
fragments  of  twenty-seven  different  skulls,  and  a  number 
of  cylinders  in  haematite,  not  engraved  ;  also  a  large 
copper  caldron,  bearing  traces  of  fire,  and  many  arrow- 
heads in  copper  and  in  iron,  but  no  vases  of  any 
kind.  This  mound  seems  to  have  been  erected  over 
some  fifty  or  sixty  bodies  buried  in  two  large  oblong 
tombs,  evidently  all  at  the  same  time,  and  probably 
slain  in  battle.  The  earth  which  forms  the  mound  may 
be  that  which  was  dug  up  in  making  the  tombs. 

Continuing  my  journey  along  the  coast,  I  reached  a 
spot  where  the  road  takes  a  northerly  direction.  Pur- 
suing this,  I  soon  came  upon  a  small  village  called 
Ormidia,  inhabited  exclusively  by  Greek  peasants.  It 
was  in  a  pretty  little  white  cottage  on  the  summit  of  a 
low  hill  near  the  outskirts  of  this  village  that  I  estab- 
lished in  1873  my  summer  residence,  and  this  con- 
tinued to  be  our  summer  resort  as  long  as  we  remained 
in  the  island. 

Its  chief  attractions  were  a  never-failing  breeze  at 
night,  good  water,  and  a  large  garden  in  the  centre  of 
a  cleared  space,  in  which  spread  the  branches  of  a  tree 
capable  of  shading  a  hundred  persons  at  a  time.  Its 
proximity  to  the  tea-shore  gave  us  the  advantage  of 
land  and  sea  breezes,  and  at  the  same  time  afforded  a 
new  pleasure  in  the  gathering  of  shells.  In  the  cool  of 
the  afternoon  we  would  wander  off  to  the  beach,  accom- 
panied by  a  couple  of  men  to  look  after  our  mules, 
when  we  dismounted,  and  then  my  wife  and  little 
daughters  would  amuse  themselves  for  hours  on  the 
sand,  collecting  what  seemed  the  choicest  among  the 
mvriads  of  tiny  shells  which  lined  the  beach.  At 


i8o 


CYPRUS. 


[CHAP.  VII. 


Ormidia  I  first  remarked  that  the  Greek  priests  in  the 
interior,  who  work  in  the  fields  like  the  peasants, 
wear  a  conical  hat,  not  unlike  those  represented  in  the 
statues  discovered  at  Golgoi,  and  it  appears  to  me  not 
improbable  that  this  fashion  of  hat  has  been  handed 
down  from  the  times  of  the  Cypriote  priests  of  Venus. 
Not  only  this,  but  there  seemed  to  me  also  to  be  a 
resemblance  between  the  features  of  the  priest  who  here 


Modern  Priest. 


attracted  my  attention  and  his  sculptured  predecessors. 
His  name  I  found  was  Papa  Petro.  I  wished  to  have 
his  photograph,  and  having  previously  made  my  pho- 
tographic preparations,  I  called  him  and  explained 
my  wish.  He  begged  to  be  first  allowed  to  go  home 
and  array  himself  in  his  most  imposing  garments,  and 
was  not  a  little  mortified  when  I  told  him  that  my 
interest  centred  exclusively  in  his  head  and  cap,  which 
he  appeared  to  think,  perhaps  not  without  reason,  to  be 
the  least  important  of  his  belongings. 


CHAP.  VII.] 


ANCIENT    NECROPOLIS. 


181 


In  the  centre  of  a  triangle  formed  by  the  villages  of 
Ormidia,  Timbo,  and  Afgoro,  I  discovered  a  very 
extensive  burying-ground,  which  yielded  the  largest 
and  most  highly  decorated  vases  found  in  Cyprus. 
The  tombs  are  of  a  very  ancient  date.  In  1870-71 
and  1875  I  undertook  some  systematic  explorations  at 
this  place,  but  without  finding  the 
either  of  temples  or  ancient  habitations. 


slightest    traces 


Vases  from  Ormidia. 


Height,  i  foot  6  in. 


Height,  over  3  feet. 


An  hour's  distance  south-west  of  Ormidia  is  Cape 
Pyla,  called  after  a  village  of  that  name,  and  this 
headland  is,  I  believe,  the  promontory  mentioned  by 
Strabo  as  Throni  ;  not  that  of  Dades  as  Pococke 
thinks,  which  is  now  called  Cape  Chiti.  On  the 
extreme  point  of  this  promontory  is  a  large  round 
tower  which  Pococke  describes  as  an  ancient  ruin,  but 
which  is  a  mere  watch-tower  erected  for  the  purpose  of 
signalling  the  approach  either  of  the  enemy  or  of  some 
piratical  craft,  and  does  not  date  back  farther  than  the 
reiim  of  the  Lusiirnans.  The  circumference  at  the 


1 82  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  VII. 

base  measures  86  feet,  and  the  height  of  what  is  still 
standing,  22\  feet ;  at  this  height,  which  I  succeeded  in 
climbing  with  the  aid  of  two  of  my  men,  the  vestiges  of 
a  doorway  are  visible.  I  found  that  the  lower  portion 
of  the  tower  was  solid  masonry  to  the  height  of  18  feet, 
and  that  the  entrance  to  it  must  have  been  reached  from 
the  outside  by  means  of  a  ladder.  It  is  built  of  square 
stones  measuring  about  a  foot,  many  of  which  have 
large  characters  deeply  cut  on  them.  Some  of  these 
characters  resemble  Cypriote  letters.  My  object  in 
examining  very  carefully  the  vicinity  of  Cape  Pyla  was 
to  discover  if  possible  traces  of  the  ancient  city  of 
Throni,  and  I  satisfied  myself  that  there  had  never 
existed  any  town  or  village  within  a  radius  of  more 
than  a  mile.  In  every  direction  the  ground  presents  a 
continuous  surface  of  hard  limestone,  which  has  been 
quarried  at  several  places.  In  visiting  this  Cape  I  took 
a  guide  from  the  village  of  Ormidia,  who  conducted  me 
to  a  large  cavern  which  he  called  "  Spilio  Macaria," 
the  entrance  of  which  faces  the  sea.  This  cave 
contains  a  great  quantity  of  petrified  bones,  some  of 
which  competent  authorities  have  recognised  as  human. 
It  is  about  60  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  I  say 
about,  because  the  rock  at  this  place  overhangs  the  sea 
in  such  a  way  as  to  render  measuring  it  both  very 
difficult  and  dangerous. 

A  young  peasant  who  came  there  one  day  to  procure 
wild  honey  which  he  saw  in  a  crevice  lost  his  footing 
and  was  drowned.  I  succeeded  however  in  penetrating 
into  the  cave,  and  found  it  to  be  64  feet  in  length,  46 
feet  high,  and  21  feet  wide.  Two  of  my  men  entered 
with  me,  and  we  found  the  petrified  bones  on  the  Moor 
and  in  the  walls,  forming  a  solid  mass.  My  two  men 
worked  for  about  an  hour  with  picks,  and  were  able  to 
detach  only  a  leg-bone  and  some  teeth.  The  layer  of 
bone-  on  the  floor  of  the  cave  seems  to  be  several  feet 


CHAP.  VII.]         SEARCH    FOR    SITE    OF    THROXI.  183 

thick.  How  they  ever  came  there  will  probably  remain 
a  mystery. 

My  guide,  who  was  the  nephew  of  the  Greek  priest, 
told  me  with  religious  awe  that  they  were  the  bones  of 
"  forty  saints,"  and  that  to  within  a  few  years  ago  it 
had  been  the  custom  of  the  peasants  of  Ormidia, 
Afgoro,  and  other  neighbouring  villages  to  make  a 
pilgrimage  to  this  cave,  accompanied  by  their  priests, 
on  the  anniversary  of  the  gth  of  March,  but  that  the 
Greek  Archbishop  of  Cyprus,  who  happened  to  be  in 
Ormidia  collecting  his  church  dues  at  the  time  of  one 
of  these  pilgrimages,  had  ordered  them  to  be  discon- 
tinued. Difficult  as  it  was  to  enter  this  cave  it  was 
still  more  so  to  get  out  of  it,  and  had  not  my  guides, 
who  were  barefooted  and  accustomed  to  walk  on  the 
rocks,  lent  me  their  assistance,  I  doubt  if  I  should  have 
been  able  to  come  out  safely. 

Continuing  my  route  along  the  rocky  coast,  which 
in  places  is  deeply  indented  by  ancient  chariot  and 
waggon  wheels,  the  evidence  of  great  traffic  in  ancient 
times,  I  arrived  in  an  hour  at  a  little  place  called 
u  Potamos,"  close  to  where  a  branch  of  the  Pedeus 
empties  itself  into  the  sea.  Here  I  found  an  old  ruined 
Greek  church  dedicated  to  Aghios  Torsos,  and  the 

O  *s  O  ' 

remains  of  an  early  Christian  village  fringing  the 
stream  on  either  side.  A  little  west  of  it  is  another 
cave,  which  also  contains  a  quantity  of  petrified  bones 
and  somewhat  easier  of  access,  but  I  did  not  observe 
among  them  any  portion  of  human  skulls  or  teeth. 
There  are  tombs  in  this  neighbourhood,  but  thev  are 
all  of  the  early  Christian  period.  During  two  years  I 
searched  in  vain  in  this  locality  for  the  site  of  Throni, 
of  which  Strabo  speaks  obscurely  sometimes  as  of  a 
promontory,  and  sometimes  as  of  a  city.  But  at  last  I 
discovered  it,  as  I  believe,  between  Cape  Pyla  and  Cape 
Greco,  but  nearer  the  latter,  at  a  spot  where  extensive 


184  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  VII. 

foundations  of  houses  are  still  visible.  The  place  is 
called  Torno,  which  obviously  is  a  corruption  of  Throni. 
The  town  seems  to  have  consisted  of  two  districts  like 
Larnaca.  In  the  district  near  the  shore  I  found  several 
subterranean  rooms,  partly  cut  in  the  rock  and  partly 
built  of  red  bricks.  The  district  farther  from  the  sea 
had  been  protected  by  a  wall,  the  outlines  of  which  I 
occupied  nearly  an  hour  in  following.  In  this  part  of 
the  town  I  discovered  several  stairs  cut  in  the  rock  and 
leading  to  underground,  circular  rooms,  which  seem  to 
have  been  used  for  storing  grain,  or  possibly,  like  those 
near  the  sea,  were  cellars  of  houses  which  may  have  once 
been  there.  I  had  passed  near  this  place  several  times 
on  former  journeys  without  noticing  it.  No  tombs  were 
discovered  in  the  neighbourhood,  but  within  the  walls 
I  found  vestiges  of  a  circular  temple,  and  in  its  area 
brought  to  light  several  fragments  of  statues  in  cal- 
careous stone  and  of  Greek  workmanship. 

What  finally  led  me  to  pay  special  attention  to  this 
vicinity  in  my  search  for  Throni,  was  the  discovery  of 
some  fragments  of  statues  which  I  made  in  the  church- 
yard of  a  small  village  close  by,  called  "  Sotira.'' 
These  fragments,  I  learned  from  the  priests,  had  been 
dug  up  at  a  spot  called  "  Torno,"  by  workmen  in 
search  of  stones  to  build  the  church.  This  being  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  promontory  called  by  Strabo,  Throni 
—the  Greek  character  of  the  sculptures  found  there, 
together  with  the  similarity  of  its  present  name  and 
the  fact  that  no  other  town  is  anywhere  mentioned  as 
having  been  built  in  the  neighbourhood,  led  me  to  the 
conviction  that  these  remains  could  only  belong  to  the 
ancient  Throni.  I  observed  in  the  course  of  inv  explor- 
ations that  the  most  reliable  as  well  as  rapid  mode  of 
identifying  a  town  the  site  of  which  has  not  been  pre- 
served by  tradition,  is  to  examine  the  walls  of  the 
churches  or  mosques  in  the  villages  of  the  district 


CHAP.  VII.]  THE    LINOBAMBAKI.  185 

where  history  places  the  site,  and  to  see  whether  they 
contain  any  architectural  fragments,  as  they  are  certain 
to  do  whenever  there  has  been  an  ancient  ruin  at  hand 
for  the  workmen  to  quarry  from. 

Before  visiting  Sotira  I  had  examined  another  village 
called  "  Leo-Petro  ;  "  but  did  not  find  any  of  the 
indications  there  of  which  I  was  in  search.  Leo-Petro 
is  a  mere  agglomeration  of  huts.  The  inhabitants  are 
very  poor,  and  eke  out  a  scanty  living  by  trafficking  in 
poultry,  which  they  buy  in  the  mountain  villages  of 
Carpass  and  sell  in  the  bazaars  of  Nicosia  and  Larnaca. 
They  are  nick-named  "  Linobambaki,"  that  is,  linen 
and  cotton,  a  figurative  expression  which  means  a 
combination  of  Christian  and  Mussulman.  While  to 
outward  appearance  they  are  Turks,  and  are  so 
recognised  by  the  local  authorities,  in  reality  they  are 
Christians  whose  ancestors,  at  the  time  of  the  Turkish 
conquest,  were  forced  to  declare  themselves  Mussul- 
mans and  to  embrace  Islamism  in  order  to  save  their 
lives  and  property.  Many,  if  not  all  of  them,  had  been 
adherents  of  the  Latin  Church,  though  it  is  still  fre- 
quently a  matter  of  dispute  between  the  Greek  bishops 
and  the  Latin  priests  as  to  which  Church  they  rightfully 
belong  to,  each  church  being  desirous  of  claiming  them 
as  its  adherents.  The  marriage  and  baptismal  cere- 
monies of  the  Linobambaki  are  performed  in  secret  by 
a  priest  of  their  choice. 

On  the  birth  of  a  male  child  the  rite  of  circumcision 
is  evaded  by  means  of  a  present  of  money  to  the 
Hodja.  They  adopt  such  names  for  their  sons  as  are 
common  to  both  Christian  and  Moslem,  such  as 
Ibrahim  (Abraham),  Moussa  (Moses),  Yusuf  (Joseph), 
etc.  They  do  not  number  more  than  twelve  hundred 
in  all,  and  reside  chiefly  near  Nicosia,  Famagosta,  and 
Limassol.  Ever}'  year  they  are  prosecuted  by  the  ico/il 
authorities  when  the  conscription  takes  plac.  As 


1 86  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  VII. 

Mussulmans  they  are  obliged  to  serve  in  the  Sultan's 
army  if  drafted,  as  Christians  they  would  be  exempted 
by  the  payment  of  a  tax  called  the  "  Askerieh,"  which 
commences  from  the  day  of  their  birth,  and  in  order 
that  their  children  may  escape  military  service,  the 
Linobambaki  often  pay  this  tax  like  the  other  recognised 
Christian  subjects  of  the  Porte.  The  Turks  accept  the 
tax  regularly,  as  if  it  were  the  legal  and  proper  exemp- 
tion, until  the  young  Linobambaki  arrive  at  the  age 
when  they  are  subject  to  be  drafted,  whereupon  the 
proof  of  having  paid  taxes  as  Christians  is  entirely 
disregarded  and  they  are  claimed  as  Mussulmans.  On 
these  occasions  they  cling  strongly  to  their  Christian 
names  as  evidence  of  their  faith,  but,  as  may  be  sup- 
posed, without  avail.  Rather  than  be  mustered  into 
the  Turkish  army  many  of  them  abandon  their  homes, 
leave  the  island  and  never  return.  In  such  instances 
the  authorities  sometimes  throw  the  father  of  the  con- 
script into  prison,  and  declare  that  he  shall  not  be 
released  until  his  son  is  produced.  Sometimes  also 
they  claim  a  brother  of  the  person  drafted,  and  any 
amount  of  litigation  and  false  witnessing  ensues.  Dur- 
ing my  time  there  were  many  disputes  arising  out  of 
this  complicated  state  of  things,  and  very  often  my 
supposed  influence  with  the  local  government  was 
invoked  to  obtain  a  favourable  settlement. 

On  one  such  occasion  the  relative  of  an  imprisoned 
Linobambako  begged  my  intercession  with  A/AZ  Pasha, 
who  was  then  Governor-General  of  Cyprus.  I  tele- 
graphed to  him  at  Nicosia,  pointing  out  the  violent  and 
unjust  proceeding  of  the  authorities  at  Larnaca  in 
imprisoning  one  brother  for  another.  A  few  hours 
after,  when  returning  from  my  usual  evening  walk  with 
my  wife,  I  met  the  alreadv  liberated  man  coming  to 
thank  me  for  his  release.  That  the  Governor-General 
had  lost  no  time  in  acceding  to  mv  request  was  onlv 


CHAP.  VII.]  CONVENT    OF    STA.    NAPA.  187 

what  was  to  be  expected  from  a  man  of  so  kindly  a 
nature  as  Aziz  Pasha,  who  also  is  endowed  with  a  rare 
nobility  of  character  and  principle  which  claims  esteem, 
whether  found  in  Christian  or  Moslem.  His  natural 
love  of  justice  rendered  him  popular  both  with  Turks 
and  Greeks,  and  a  favourite  with  the  Consular  corps 
during  his  administration  of  Cyprus. 

Having  ascertained  the  site  of  Throni,  I  continued 
my  route  eastward  towards  Cape  Greco.  Half  way 
between  it  and  the  ruins  of  Throni  there  is  a  small 
village  of  about  fifty  houses,  inhabited  by  Greek 
peasants,  built  on  the  side  of  a  rocky  hill  in  close 
proximity  to  a  large  convent.  This  convent  is  called 
Sta.  Xapa,  and  gives  its  name  to  the  village.  It  be- 
longed to  the  Latin  Church  before  the  conquest  of  the 
island  by  Selim  II.,  and  was  given  to  the  Greeks  by 
Mustafa  Pasha,  but  is  now  in  a  dilapidated  condition. 
Its  architecture  proves  that  it  was  built  under  the 
Lusignan  dynasty.  The  Royal  Crusaders  must  have 
richly  endowed  it,  as  it  still  owns  thousands  of  acres  of 
fertile  land,  much  of  which  lies  untilled  for  the  \vant  of 
manual  labour.  Its  possessions  extend  as  far  as  the 
village  of  Ormidia.  In  the  gardens  of  the  convent  are 
two  large  stone  reservoirs,  fed,  chiefly  during  the 
winter  months,  by  the  water  of  a  spring,  the  source  of 
which  is  some  four  miles  north-east.  The  water  is  con- 
veyed by  an  ancient  aqueduct  somewhat  similar  to  those 
at  Amathus,  Curium,  Citium,  and  one  or  two  places  on 
the  north  side  of  the  island.  The  aqueduct  of  Sta.  Xapa, 
like  that  of  Citium,  has  undergone  many  repairs,  and  the 
greater  part  of  the  construction,  as  it  now  appears,  is 
according  to  the  Roman  system  ;  but  while  following  its 
course  I  found  several  air-shafts,  showing  that  the 
water  had  been  originally  conveyed  to  Throni  in  a 
more  direct  way,  and  by  the  ancient  Greek  system  of 
tunnelling.  I  explored  some  of  these  shafts,  which 


1 88  CYPRUS.  fCHAi'.  VII. 

were  pointed  out  to  me  as  ancient  tombs  which  had 
been  opened  before,  and  found  that  the  rock  beneath 
had  been  excavated  some  sixteen  inches  square  for 
the  passage  of  the  water.  This  part  of  the  works  is 
now  abandoned,  and  the  aqueduct  winds  its  way  round 
several  hills  to  within  a  few  hundred  yards  of  the 
convent,  where  it  is  bridged  over  by  a  structure  of 
square  stones,  many  of  which  have  large  characters  or 
marks  similar  to  the  Cypriote  letters.  Just  before 
reaching  the  village  of  Sta.  Napa,  and  quite  at  the  foot 
of  the  hill,  are  the  remains  of  an  ancient  town  of  small 
size  which  the  natives  call  "  Catalima."  I  dug  at  this 
place,  but  only  for  a  short  time,  and  brought  to  light 
the  foundations  of  an  elliptical  building  in  which  I 
found  a  large  Corinthian  capital  of  white  marble  and  a 
mass  of  broken  tiles  and  jars.  The  place  bore  unmis- 
takable signs  of  having  been  excavated  before,  probably 
by  the  builders  of  the  convent.  A  similar  capital  of  the 
same  size  and  quality  of  marble  as  the  one  discovered 
here,  is  lying  half  buried  in  one  of  the  courtyards  of 
the  convent  of  Sta.  Napa,  but  the  Greek  priest,  who  is 
now  the  sole  tenant  of  the  convent,  could  give  me  no 
information  as  to  when  or  where  it  had  been  dug  up. 
"  I  found  it  where  it  lies,"  said  he,  "  when  I  took 
charge  of  the  convent  twenty-two  years  ago,  and  I  left 
it  there  undisturbed."  Near  it  I  observed  a  fine  marble 
basin  or  fountain,  with  figures  in  high  relief,  much 
mutilated,  which  may  also  have  been  dug  up  at 
Catalima,  or  more  probably  at  Throni.  It  is  much 
earlier,  in  my  opinion,  than  the  Christian  era. 

Nothing  remains  standing  of  the  ancient  village  once 
occupying  the  site  of  Catalima  except  a  curious  mono- 
lith, so  worn  by  time  and  exposure  to  the  elements  as 
to  make  it  difficult  to  say  whether  it  was  originally 
round  or  quadrilateral.  Its  present  height  above 
ground  is  six  feet  seven  inches,  but  digging  round  it 


CHAP.  VII.]  CATALIMA.  189 

I  found  that  it  extended  some  way  below  the  surface. 
There  is  an  oblong  hole  through  the  centre,  g  inches 
high  and  5  inches  wide.  In 
this  hole  was  a  heap  of 
broken  glass,  bracelets,  some 
elass  earrings,  and  two  or 

O  O      7  -    -  -  c 

three  partially  consumed 
votive  candles.  I  asked  my 
guide,  Captain  Andrea,  a  very  intelligent  Greek  who 
lives  at  Sta.  Napa,  why  these  objects  were  placed 
there,  and  whether  any  superstition  \vas  connected 
with  it.  He  explained  that  the  young  girls  of  his 
village  came  there  and  broke  their  glass  jewellery, 
either  when  they  got  married,  or  had  been  betrayed  by 
their  lovers.  Old  women  also  came  to  that  mysterious 
monolith  to  light  tapers,  in  the  hope  of  being  cured  of 
bodily  ailments.  Is  it  to  the  relic  of  a  pagan  temple 
dedicated  to  Venus,  or  to  the  relic  of  some  Greek 
saint,  that  these  women,  whether  young  or  old,  resort 
in  their  distress  ?  I  was  unable  to  determine. 

I  found  three  similar  monoliths,  with  an  oblong  hole 
in  each,  in  different  localities  further  east,  towards  Cape 
St.  Andrea.  One,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  a  little 
headland  called  "  Elea,"  near  the  village  of  Gastria, 
lies  chipped  and  half  buried  in  the  ground  ;  the  second 
is  beyond  a  village  called  Galinoporni,  where  I  re- 
marked several  air-shafts  belonging  to  an  ancient 
aqueduct  ;  and  the  third  is  at  Cape  St.  Andrea,  where 
are  the  ruins  of  a  small  town  opposite  the  u  Kleides," 
and  many  rock-cut  tombs,  all  opened  long  ago.  I  met 
with  none  of  these  monoliths  on  the  northern  coast  of 
the  island.  They  may  represent  the  symbolic  cone  of 
Venus,  under  which  form  she  was  worshipped  in  Paphos. 

The  burying-ground  belonging  to  Cataiima,  and 
probably  also  to  Throni,  is  some  ten  minutes  east  of 
Sta.  Xapa  towards  Cape  Greco,  and  quite  close  to  the 


i  go 


CYPRUS. 


[CHAP.  VII. 


sea-shore.  The  greater  part  of  the  tombs  are  roughly 
hewn  in  the  rock,  and  shaped  like  those  at  Dali.  I 
found  in  them  many  terra-cotta  coffins,  decorated  with 
garlands  of  flowers  painted  in  red.  The  lids  are  formed 


Terra-cotta  Coffin. 


of  three  terra-cotta  slabs  placed  side  by  side,  and 
cemented  together  by  plaster  poured  upon  them  after 
the  body  had  been  deposited  inside.  In  these  tombs 
I  found  also  a  great  many  terra-cotta  lamps,  glass 
objects,  and  a  few  gold  ornaments,  including  the  speci- 
mens of  iridescent  glass  now  in  the  Xew  York  Museum, 
which  surpass  in  brilliancy  of  colour  anything  of  the 
kind  I  have  ever  seen. 

The  summit  of  Cape  Greco  has  a  flat  rocky  surface, 


but  there  are  no  indications  of  its  having  had  a  temple 
or  other  building  upon  it.  East  of  this  promontory, 
which  gradually  slopes  into  the  plain  of  Salamis,  and 


CHAP.  VII.] 


LEUCOLLA. 


igi 


where  trie  sea  forms  a  natural  haven,  I  discovered  the 
ruins  of  an  ancient  Greek  town.  After  digging  a 
few  days  at  random,  I  came  upon  the  foundations  of  a 
building,  from  which  I  brought  out  some  large  heads 
and  fragments  of  stone  sculpture,  all  bearing  a  decidedly 


C"1'issal  Stone  Head  of  Cybcle.     Found  at  Leucolla. 

Greek  character.  From  the  geographical  situation  of 
these  ruins  they  can  be  no  other  than  those  of  Leu- 
colla, a  town  which  was  in  a  flourishing  condition  at 
the  time  of  Alexander  the  Great,  and  gave  its  name  to 
the  famous  naval  battle  fought  in  its  neighbourhood 
between  Demetrius  Poliorcetes  and  Ptolemv.  Its 


IQ2  CYPRUS.  [CKAP.  VII. 

harbour,  some  130  feet  below  the  level  of  the  city,  was 
reached  by  a  road  cut  in  the  rock,  still  partially  visible. 
From  the  small  extent  of  these  ruins,  Leucolla  must 
have  been  a  town  of  no  great  importance. 

From  this  point  to  Salamis  there  are  no  ancient  ruins 
near  the  sea-shore  that  can  be  identified  with  the  city 
of  Arsinoe,  said  to  have  had  a  harbour,  and  placed  by 
Strabo  between  Leucolla  and  Salamis.  Famagosta, 
which  occupies  the  site  of  Ammochostos,  one  of  the  ten 
royal  cities  which  paid  tribute  to  Esarhaddon,  possesses 
the  only  harbour  between  Salamis  and  Leucolla,  and 
may  have  been  called  Arsinoe  under  the  Ptolemies. 

North-east  of  Leucolla  lies  the  plain  of  Salamis,  where 
the  army  of  Darius  defeated  Onesilos,  and  where  subse- 
quently another  Persian  army  of  more  than  300,000 
men  spent  nearly  ten  years  in  vanquishing  the  high- 
spirited  Evagoras.  It  was  also  in  this  plain  that  Deme- 
trius, after  crossing  the  mountain  range  of  Carpass,  gave 
battle  and  defeated  Menelaus,  the  brother  of  Ptolemy. 

This  plain  is  reached  after  a  few  minutes'  descent  from 
the  flat-topped  promontory  mentioned  before,  now  called 
Cape  Greco,  and  through  the  little  village  of  Paralimni, 
built  near  Lake  Para,  which  is  now  quite  dry,  and 
during  the  Lusignan  and  Venetian  occupation  was  used 
as  a  rice  field.  Between  Paralimni  and  the  sea-shore 
are  a  number  of  ancient  tombs,  which  obviously  be- 
longed to  Leucolla.  Their  content:;  had  the  same 
character,  and  were  of  the  same  period  as  those  found 
in  the  ruins  before  referred  to.  Most  of  these  tombs, 
however,  had  been  previously  opened,  and  I  found  in 
them  only  fragments  of  glass  and  a  few  Roman  lamps. 
Less  than  half  an  hour's  ride  east  of  Paralimni.  and 
within  a  stone's  throw  ot  Famagosta,  is  Varossia,  a 
thriving  little  town  founded  bv  the  Christian  population 
expelled  from  Famagosta  at  the  time  of  its  capture  by 
the  Ottoman  armv. 


CHAP.  VII.]  DECAY    OF    THE    OSMANLIS.  193 

It  has  a  fine  Greek  church  with  a  new  belfry,  which 
is  a  fair  representative  of  modern  local  architecture,  a 
good  bazaar,  several  manufactories  of  pottery,  and  some 
houses  built  of  stone,  as  good  as  any  in  Larnaca  or 
Nicosia,  with  orange  and  lemon  groves  and  very  exten- 
sive gardens,  studded  with  mulberry  trees  for  the  culti- 
vation of  the  silkworm.  The  appearance  of  Varossia 
presents  a  marked  contrast  to  the  gloomy  quarters  of 
Famagosta,  occupied  by  the  Turks.  Indeed,  through- 
out the  island  the  places  inhabited  solely  by  Turks  are 
as  a  general  rule  dirty,  miserable,  and  showing  every 
sign  of  decay,  and  this  result  is  what  must  be  expected 
from  a  race  who  neither  know  nor  care  to  learn  any  pro- 
fession or  handicraft  by  which  to  earn  their  livelihood, 
but  prefer  to  spend  their  time  in  idleness  at  the  cafes, 
drinking  and  smoking,  while  their  families  and  house- 
hold matters  are  left  to  take  care  of  themselves  as  best 
they  can.  In  Cyprus  the  race  of  the  Osmanlis  is  fast 
disappearing.  This  I  had  opportunities  of  remarking 
during  my  residence  there,  and  I  have  been  assured  by 
competent  persons  that  only  40  years  ago  the  capital  of 
the  island  contained  more  Turks  than  Christians  ;  at 
the  present  clay  the  latter  are  in  a  large  majority.  The 
crime  of  abortion  is  extensively  practised  among  the 
Turkish  population,  and  the  Turkish  midwives  flourish 
everywhere.  I  have  spoken  of  this  to  Turks  who  were 
intelligent  and  upright  enough  to  condemn  the  system, 
but  they  invariably  added  that  the  Turk  was  too  poor  to 
allow  himself  the  expensive  luxury  of  having  children  ! 
If  such  a  state  of  things  exists  also  in  the  other 
provinces  of  Turkey,  there  is  no  need  of  anything  but 
time  to  rid  Europe  of  this  degenerate  race. 

The  devoted  city  of  Famagosta,  built  by  the  Chris- 
tians 800  years  ago,  from  the  ruins  of  Salamis,  and 
destroyed  by  the  Turks  in  1571,  after  the  terrible  siege 
in  which  the  Venetian  soldiers  so  heroicall  defended 


I Q4  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  VII. 

their  position,  once  counted  its  beautiful  churches  by 
hundreds,  and  its  palatial  dwellings  by  thousands. 
Once  it  had  been  one  of  the  principal  commercial  cities 
of  the  Levant,  with  a  harbour  in  which  rode  large  fleets, 
but  which  now  through  neglect  has  become  filled  with 
sand,  and  is  able  to  float  only  vessels  of  small  draught. 
It  was  just  outside  the  mouth  of  this  closed  harbour 
that  the  vessels  containing  the  Venetian  families  and 
their  most  precious  personal  and  household  effects  were 
sunk  by  the  faithless  Mustafa  Pasha  after  he  had  killed 
the  Venetian  generals. 

As  you  approach  the  massive  walls  of  the  city,  which 
are  nearly  17  feet  thick  and  of  solid  stone,  all  taken 
from  the  ruins  of  Salamis,  you  see  how  impossible  it 
was  to  take  such  a  city  except  by  famine  or  treachery. 
The  walls  stand  now  as  impregnable  and  intact  as 
when  raised  by  the  Lusignans.  The  old  bronze  guns 
of  the  Republic  of  Venice  are  still  on  the  bastions  in 
their  original  place,  looking  formidably  towards  the  sea 
and  the  plain  of  Salamis,  but  spiked  and  out  of  service 
since  1571.  There  are  a  half  dozen  rusty  iron  guns  of 
Turkish  manufacture  pretty  much  in  the  same  con- 
dition. 

The  ruins  of  Famagosta  are  not  grand  and  imposing, 
yet  to  me  they  are  most  beautiful  and  touching.  It  is 
impossible  to  see  the  still  existing  walls  of  many  of  its 
fine  mediaeval  churches,  with  frescoes  plainly  visible  on 
the  interiors-  here  a  rectory  built  in  keeping,  there  evi- 
dences of  elegant  homes  --without  a  feeling  of  intense 
sadness.  Only  two  out  of  the  three  hundred  churches 
which  are  said  to  have  existed  in  Famagosta  were  left 
standing.  The  principal  one,  formerly  the  Cathedral 
and  now  used  as  a  mosque,  is  paved  with  mortuary 
marble  slabs  engraved  with  the  names  and  arms  of 
Italian  noblemen  once  buried  beneath  them,  whose 
bones  were  exhumed  and  thrown  into  the  sea  bv  order 


CHAP.  VII.]  FAMAGOSTA.  195 

of  the  fanatical  and  ferocious  Mustafa  Pasha  the  day 
after  he  captured  the  city.  The  other  church,  used  as 
a  granary  and  a  stable  by  the  Turks,  contains  also  a 
few  tombstones,  now  all  worn  out  by  the  horses'  hoofs. 
There  I  discovered  the  inscription  mentioned  in  the 
Introduction,  recording  the  day  on  which  by  the  abdica- 
tion of  Catherine  Cornaro  the  Venetians  became  the 
rulers  of  Cyprus.  Within  the  city  walls  resides  the 
Caimakam  of  the  province  of  Carpass,  with  the  Cadi  of 
Famagosta  and  the  usual  Mejilis.  There  is  also  a 
military  Governor  of  the  fortress,  and  a  company  of 
artillery.  This  Governor  resides  with  his  troops  in  a 
small  fort  overlooking  the  sea,  and  flanked  by  a  large 
round  tower  called  by  the  natives  "  Torre  del  Moro  " 
(Tower  of  the  Moor).  Tradition  asserts  that  in  this 
tower  were  the  head-quarters  of  the  Venetian  Lord- 
Lieutenant  of  Cyprus,  Cristoforo  Moro,  during  the  years 
1506-1508.  In  the  latter  year,  on  the  22nd  of  October, 
Cristoforo  Moro  was  recalled  from  Cyprus  and  returned 
to  Venice ;  and  from  documents  which  I  have  been 
allowed  to  peruse,  it  would  appear  that  this  man  was 
married  four  times,  and  that  his  private  life  was  not  very 
exemplary.  This  Cristoforo  Moro  was  the  "Othello" 
of  Shakespeare,  and  must  not  be  confounded  with  his 
namesake  the  Doge  of  Venice,  to  whom  he  was  not 
even  related,  who  in  July  1469  wrote  to  the  King  of 
Cyprus  a  stringent  letter  in  regard  to  Catherine 
Cornaro,  mentioned  in  the  Introduction. 

The  fortress  of  Famagosta  contains  some  of  the 
worst  criminals  of  the  Turkish  Empire.  Many  of  them 
are  condemned  for  life,  others  are  sentenced  on  an 
average  to  from  15  to  25  years'  imprisonment,  and  all 
are  heavily  shackled  Near  the  eastern  wall,  where  the 
prisoners  are  confined,  are  two  casemates  filled  with 
arms  taken  from  the  Venetian  garrison.  On  the 
handles  of  some  of  the  rapiers  I  observed  the  crests  of 


ig6  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  VII. 

the  owners  inlaid  with  gold  and  the  Jerusalem  Cross. 
My  friend,  Mr.  Hiram  Hitchcock,  who  accompanied 
me  on  one  of  my  visits  to  Famagosta,  had  expressed  a 
desire  to  possess  one  of  these  interesting  weapons,  and 
I  succeeded  in  obtaining  several  for  him.  On  that 
occasion  Mrs.  Hitchcock  and  my  wife  were  of  the 
party.  On  leaving  the  armoury  Mrs.  Hitchcock  pointed 
out  some  trailing  crimson  flowers  which  overhung  a 
parapet,  remarking  on  their  contrast  to  the  surround- 
ings. To  our  astonishment  a  short  broad-shouldered 
man  who  had  remained  always  near  our  part}-,  and  with 
whose  commanding  presence  and  fine  manly  face  we 
had  all  been  struck,  sprang  to  the  parapet  with  the 
agility  of  a  cat,  broke  off  some  of  the  blossoms,  and 
returning  presented  a  spray  to  each  of  the  ladies  with 
all  the  grace  of  a  courtier.  To  their  horror,  as  he  did 
so,  they  observed  for  the  first  time  that  he  was  shackled 
with  heavy  iron  links  from  the  wrist  to  the  ankle.  His 
large  sad  blue  eyes,  and  hair  prematurely  streaked  with 
gray,  seemed  to  plead  in  his  favour,  and  on  inquiring 
his  crime  we  learned  that  he  was  no  less  a  personage 
than  the  celebrated  Kattirdji  Janni,  the  Robin  Hood  of 
the  Levant.  Many  are  the  romantic  stories  told  of  this 
robber  chief,  who  it  is  claimed  never  committed  a 
murder  or  permitted  one  to  be  perpetrated  by  his  band 
30  long  as  he  was  at  the  head  of  it.  It  is  said  that 
while  in  the  service  of  a  gentleman  in  Smyrna,  he  fell 
in  love  with  his  master's  daughter,  and  having  planned 
an  elopement  was  betrayed  by  a  fellow  servant  ;  he  was 
overtaken  and  thrown  into  prison.  Escaping  from 
thence  into  the  mountains  near  the  ruins  of  Ephesus, 
he  entered  upon  the  wild  career  which  finallv  brought 
him  to  Eamagosta.  He  and  his  band  would  lie  in 
wait  for  persons  whom  they  knew  were  transporting 
large  sums  of  money  and  kindly  relieve  them  of  the 
trouble  of  carrying  it  further  ;  or  they  would  capture 


CHAP.  VII.]  A    FAMOUS    BANDIT.  197 

persons  of  wealth  and   detain  them  until  a  ransom  had 
been  paid.      Kattirdji  Janni,  having  very  crude  notions 
of  right  and  wrong,  would  often  give  this  money  in  alms 
to  the  poor,  and  it  is  related  that  he  endowed   nearly 
a  thousand  young  Greek  girls  with  marriage  dowries. 
Xo  one  ever  dreamed  of  informing  against  him,  certain 
that    should    he     do     so     some     retributive    evil    would 
infallibly  be    his   fate.     All   efforts    on   the   part   of  the 
Turkish    authorities    to    take    any   of   the    adventurous 
band  proved  futile  as  long  as   Janni  was  at  its    head. 
At  the  time  of  the   Crimean  War,  when  a  part  of  the 
English  army  was  at   Smyrna,  five  hundred  soldiers,  I 
have  been  told,  went  out,  assisted  by  the  Turks,  in  order 
if  possible  to  secure  him  and  to  destroy  his  band,  but 
were  entirely  unsuccessful.      The  hills  around  Ephesus 
and    in    the   neighbourhood    of   Smyrna  are  admirably 
suited  to  the  professional  brigand.      To  give  some  idea 
of  the  boldness  of  this  robber  and  of  the  terror  in  which 
he  was  held  by  the  inhabitants  of  Smyrna,   I   may  give 
the   following  incident  which  I  heard  of  from  a  relative 
of  the  family  in  which  it  occurred.      One  evening,  when 
this  family  were   sitting  at   supper,   they  were    amazed 
beyond  description  to  behold  twelve  men  armed  to  the 
teeth  enter  the   apartment  (houses  in  the   East  are   all 
easy  of  access),    headed   by   this   bold   outlaw.      These 
uninvited    guests,  after   quietly   seating   themselves,   re- 
marked,   ''  We   will  wait   until   you  have    finished,   and 
then  we   also   wish   some  supper."      The  family  imme- 
diately rose  in  great  trepidation  and  gave  them  whatever 
they  desired.    When  Kattirdji  Janni  had  finished  eating 
he  told  his  trembling  host  that  he  and  his  family  were 
henceforth  free  to  hunt  or  travel  where  they  liked  with- 
out  fear  of  being    molested,   as    Kattirdji   Janni  never 
forgot  a  kindness  !     At  last,  tiring  of  this  wild  life,  or 
perhaps  some   better  feeling  coming  over  him,  he  deter- 
mined to   deliver  himself  up  to  the  Turkish  authorities 


ig8  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  VII. 

on  the  promise  often  held  out  to  him,  that  he  should  be 
exiled  in  Cyprus,  but  not  otherwise  punished. 

He  was  taken  to  Constantinople,  and  I  am  inclined 
to  believe  that  the  Turks  would  have  kept  their  promise, 
as  they  too  love  bold  spirits  and  courage,  even  in  a 
bandit,  but  unfortunately,  a  young  Frenchman  in  some 
\vay  officially  connected  with  the  French  Consulate  at 
Smyrna  had  been  very  badly  treated  by  his  band,  and 
on  that  account  the  French  Ambassador  insisted  on 
Kattirdji  Janni  being  imprisoned  and  treated  in  a  most 
rigorous  manner  (this  I  heard  from  the  robber's  lips). 
He  was  then  taken  to  a  prison,  and  there,  in  a  small 
cell,  was  chained  to  the  wall  like  a  wild  beast  for  seven 
years.  He  was  afterwards  removed  to  the  fortress  of 
Famagosta,  where  he  now  resides.  Through  the 
intercession  of  some  influential  Turk,  the  Sultan,  Abdul 
Aziz,  was  induced  to  have  him  treated  with  more 
lenity,  and  in  1869  he  was  allowed  the  same  freedom 
as  other  prisoners  of  lesser  note,  though  shackled 
with  a  chain  the  links  of  which  are  five  inches  long, 
three  wide,  and  half  an  inch  thick. 

Through  the  entreaties  of  my  wife,  Aziz  Pasha  applied 
in  1875  to  Constantinople  and  obtained  authority  to 
have  these  heavy  chains  replaced  by  much  lighter  ones. 
Such  was  the  man  to  whom  our  ladies  were  indebted 
for  their  Moral  souvenirs  of  Famagosta. 

Leaving  Famagosta  and  continuing  my  journey  in 
the  plain,  I  arrived  after  three-quarters  of  an  hour's 
ride  at  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  city  of  Salamis.  From 
the  position  of  this  city  towards  the  eastern  end  of 
the  island  and  facing  the  coast  of  Phoenicia,  one  would 
expect  to  find  in  it  more  than  elsewhere  traces  of 
early  Phoenician  settlements.  But  this  is  not  so.  On 
the  contrarv,  Salamis,  of  all  the  cities  ol  Cyprus,  is  the 
most  famous  for  its  inclination  towards  the  Greeks 
and  for  its  resistance  of  the  Persians.  Its  history 


CHAP.  VII.]  SALAMIS.  igg 

seems  to  justify  the  tradition  of  its  having  been  founded 
by  a  colony  of  Greeks  under  Teucer,  the  son  of 
Telamon,  king  of  the  island  of  Salamis,  who,  the 
story  goes,  refused  to  receive  Teucer  on  his  return 
from  Troy  because  he  had  not  sought  to  prevent  the 
suicide  of  his  brother  Ajax.  Upon  this  Teucer  set 
sail  with  his  companions,  and  perhaps  also  captives 
from  the  Trojan  expedition,  and  arriving  in  Cyprus 
selected  this  site  for  a  town,  and  from  affection  to  his 
native  island  called  it  by  its  name  of  Salamis.  Accord- 
ing to  Virgil  (^Eneid,  i.  621),  Teucer  went  first  to  Sidon 
and  there  obtained  the  authority  of  the  king  Belus  to 
settle  in  Cyprus.  But  this  is  not  m  accordance  with 
the  other  legends,  and  it  is  impossible  now  to  say 
whether  it  may  not  have  been  an  invention  of  the 
poet's.  Strabo  says  that  the  colonists  landed  on  the 
north  coast,  and  if  that  is  correct,  they  would  probably 
have  crossed  over  the  mountains  to  Salamis.  At  this 
point  the  island  is  narrow.  The  legend  says  that 
Teucer  married  Eune,  a  daughter  of  Cinyras,  and  that 
from  them  sprang  the  line  of  kings  of  Salamis. 
Another  characteristic  feature  of  Salamis  was  its  devo- 
tion to  the  worship  of  the  great  Hellenic  god  Zeus, 
who  was  there  styled  Splanchnotomos,  with  reference 
to  the  ceremony  of  inspecting  the  entrails  of  victims 
offered  for  sacrifice. 

Of  the  history  of  Salamis  almost  nothing  is  known 
till  we  come  to  the  time  of  the  Persian  wars,  but  from 
that  time  clown  to  the  reign  of  the  Ptolemies  it  was  by 
far  the  most  conspicuous  and  flourishing  of  the  towns 
of  Cyprus.  I  have  already  in  the  Introduction  given  a 
short  sketch  of  how  Onesilus  seized  the  government  of 
Salamis  from  his  brother  Gorgus,  and  set  up  an 
obstinate  resistance  to  the  Persian  oppression,  under 
which  the  island  was  labouring  about  B.C.  500.  In  the 
end  he  was  defeated  bv  a  Persian  armv,  and  fell  in 


200  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  VII. 

battle,  and  it  was  about  this  time,  if  not  also  in  conse- 
quence of  this  defeat,  that  the  dynasty  of  Teucer  was 
for  a  period  removed  from  the  government  of  Sal  amis. 
As  to  the  length  of  this  period  there  is  great  obscurity. 
It  seems,  however,  to  be  certain  that  with  the  help  of 
the  Persians,  a  Tyrian  named  Abdemon  had  seized  the 
throne,  and  not  only  paid  tribute  to  Persia,  but 
endeavoured  to  extend  the  Persian  power  over  the  rest 
of  the  island.  To  Salamis  itself  he  invited  Phoenician 
immigrants,  and  introduced  Asiatic  tastes  and  habits. 
So  that  apparently  all  previous  efforts  to  give  a  firm 
Hellenic  character  to  the  town  were  rendered  futile. 
But  meantime  there  was  growing  up  a  spirited  boy,  who 
traced  his  descent  from  the  line  of  Teucer,  and  in  whom 
were  combined  the  highest  natural  gifts.  Bodily  he  had 
no  rival  in  beauty,  or  strength,  or  skill ;  mentally  he  was 
endowed  with  all  that  was  necessary  for  a  great  leader. 
Such  is  in  brief  the  description  which  the  ancients  have 
left  us  of  Evagoras.  Abdemon,  the  Tyrian  usurper,  saw 
how  the  presence  ol  this  youth  captivated  the  people  of 
Salamis,  and  took  measures  to  be  rid  of  him  effectually. 
But  the  scheme  was  discovered  and  Evagoras  escaped 
to  Cilicia,  where  he  gradually  collected  round  his  person 
a  band  of  fifty  faithful  friends,  ready  for  any  service  to 
which  he  might  call  them.  Crossing  from  Cilicia  they 
obtained,  during  the  darkness,  entrance  at  one  of  the 
gates  of  Salamis,  and  amid  general  alarm  and  con- 
fusion, fought  their  way  against  great  odds  to  the 
citadel  and  seized  it.  There  appears  to  have  been 
little  further  resistance.  Evagoras  became  king,  and 
from  the  beginning  to  the  end  of  his  reign,  spared 
nothing  to  make  Salamis  a  flourishing  and  powerful 
city,  among  other  things  fortifying  it,  and  improving  its 
harbour. 

The  ten   years  of  war  which   followed,  with   its   great 
victories    and    equally  severe   defeats,    must   have   tnec. 


CHAP.  VII.]  HISTORY    OF    SALAMIS.  2O1 

even  the  large  resources  of  such  a  town.  Evagoras 
died  or  was  killed  by  a  eunuch,  B.C.  374. 

The  next  period  of  interest  in  the  history  of  Salamis, 
was  when,  on  the  partition  of  the  Empire  of  Alexander 
the  Great,  Ptolemy  and  Antigonus  made  each  extra- 
ordinary efforts  to  obtain  Cyprus.  Ptolemy  was  repre- 
sented by  Menelaus,  who  held  Salamis.  The  leader  on 
the  opposite  side  was  the  son  of  Antigonus,  young 
Demetrius,  who  from  his  conduct  of  the  siege  of  Salamis 
on  this  occasion,  obtained  the  title  of  "  Poliorcetes,"  by 
which  he  has  since  been  known.  Menelaus  trusted  to 
the  fortifications  of  the  town,  but  Demetrius  constructed 
a  colossal  engine,  known  as  the  "  Helepolis"  or  "city- 
taker,"  75  feet  wide,  and  150  feet  high,  moving  on  four 
great  wheels,  having  nine  storeys,  and  containing  over 
two  hundred  men.  With  this  and  battering-rams,  he 
succeeded  in  making  a  breach  in  the  wall.  But  the 
defenders  made  a  stubborn  resistance,  and  during  the 
night  managed  to  set  fire  to  the  huge  engine  of  war. 
Demetrius  was  now  obliged  to  turn  for  assistance  to  his 
fleet.  A  naval  engagement  followed  in  which  he  was 
victorious,  and  in  consequence  of  this,  Menelaus  sur- 
rendered in  Salamis.  From  this  time  the  town  appears 
to  have  lost  its  prosperity  as  well  as  its  high  position, 
and  to  have  gradually  declined.  A  large  part  of  it  was 
destroyed  during  the  revolt  of  the  Jews  in  the  time  of 
Trajan.  Afterwards,  in  the  reign  of  Constantius  Chlorus, 
part  of  it  sank  into  the  sea,  from  the  effects  of  an  earth- 
quake. This  emperor  is  said  to  have  erected  in  it  many 
new  public  buildings,  and  to  have  changed  its  name  to 
Constantia.  In  the  middle  ages  it  was  eclipsed  by 
Famagosta. 

At  present  it  is  nearly  covered  by  sand  drifted  from  the 
sea-shore,  where  it  lies  to  a  depth  of  some  ten  feet.  The 
harbour  and  that  portion  of  the  wall  fronting  the  sea, 
are  still  easily  traced.  I  measured  the  length  of  the 


202  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.   VII. 

wall,  and  found  it  to  be  nearly  6850  feet.  The  area 
of  Salamis  is  thickly  overgrown  with  thistles  and  tall 
weeds,  which,  together  with  the  sand,  render  the  task 
of  inspecting  it  very  difficult.  The  ground  also  abounds 
with  snakes,  some  of  which  are  venomous,  such  as 
the  asp  and  others.  I  spent  large  sums  of  money  at 
this  place  on  three  different  occasions,  but  with  no 
result  in  any  way  satisfactory.  The  ruins  of  Salamis 
furnished  building  material  for  some  of  the  mosques 
and  many  dwelling-houses  in  Adrianople. 

North  of  Salamis  are  two  tumuli,  the  base  of  one 
of  which  I  reached  by  means  of  vertical  shafts,  and 
there  found  a  plain  white  marble  sarcophagus,  but  so 
damaged  as  to  be  worthless.  A  pickaxe  had  been  left 
behind  by  the  diggers  who  had  previously  opened  the 
tumulus,  perhaps  some  hundreds  of  years  ago.  North 
of  these  tumuli  are  shown  the  prison  and  tomb  of  Sta. 
Catherine,  which  have  all  the  appearance  of  having  been 
an  early  Phoenician  tomb,  like  that  of  Phaneromene  at 
Larnaca.  A  little  distance  further  north  is  the  church 
of  St.  Barnabas,  built,  it  is  said,  upon  the  spot  where 
the  body  of  the  saint  was  discovered,  with  the  Gospel  of 
St.  Luke  on  his  breast.  This  church  is  held  in  great 
veneration,  and  kept  in  good  repair,  although  there  is 
now  only  one  of  the  twelve  original  monolithic  columns 
standing,  their  want  being  supplied  by  columns  made  of 
small  stones  and  plaster,  the  original  capitals  being 
retained  in  use. 

Leaving  Salamis,  I  rode  eight  hours  along  the  sea- 
shore, and  reached  the  foot  of  the  mountains  of  Carpass, 
where  I  stopped  near  a  village  called  Gastrudi.  It  con- 
sists of  about  fortv  families.  A  small  stream  runs  near 
bv.  On  the  north  side  of  a  hill  east  of  Gastrudi  are 
the  circular  ruins  of  an  amphitheatre  or  temple,  and  on 
another,  near  the  sea-shore,  a  watch-tower.  From  this 
point  to  Cape  St.  Andreas  there  are  evidences  of  a  dense 


CHAP.  VII.] 


JOURNEY    TO    CARPASS. 


203 


population.  Many  of  the  hills  near  Carpass  are  crowned 
with  ruined  castles,  but  those  which  I  visited  had  all 
been  erected  in  the  middle  ages.  I  found  on  these  hills 
several  air-shafts  and  remains  of  aqueducts,  similar  to 
those  met  with  elsewhere  in  the  island.  Along  the 
shore  are  many  cemeteries,  the  tombs  of  which  are 
among  the  oldest  in  Cyprus.  Some  are  cut  in  the  rock, 
and  others  merely  excavated  in  the  earth.  From  Cape 
St.  Andreas  as  far  as  the  village  of  lalussa,  the  ancient 
remains  which  I  observed  seem  to  belong  to  a  very 
early  period  in  the  history  of  the  island,  and  have  a 
certain  oriental  character,  but  from  lalussa  along  the 
coast  to  Kormakiti  the  ruins  are  all  decidedly  Hellenic, 
consisting  of  fluted  columns  of  Ionic  and  Corinthian 
capitals  in  pure  white  marble,  which  had  been  imported, 
traces  of  piers,  docks,  artificial  harbours,  and  other 
remains  of  public  works,  evidently  Greek.  Eight  years 
ago  on  this  side  of  the  island  I  saw,  half  way  up  a  hill, 
two  colossal  lions,  which  had  probably  adorned  the 
gateway  of  a  temple,  but  the  last  time  I  passed  one 
of  the  lions  had  disappeared,  and  the  other  lay  broken 
in  pieces. 


CHAPTER     VIII. 

PAPHOS. 

Paphos  founded  by  Phoenicians. — Temple  of  Venus  mentioned  by 
Homer. — Its  site  near  the  shore. — Other  Temple  of  Venus. — 
Paphos  built  on  an  eminence  further  inland. — City  and  temple 
destroyed  by  earthquakes. — Temple  rebuilt  by  Vespasian. — Re- 
mains still  visible. — Plan  of  the  great  temple. — Mosaic  pavement. 
—  Rock-cut  tombs. — Site  of  temple  partly  occupied  by  the  small 
village  of  Kouklia. 

THE  site  of  this  very  ancient  city,  where  was  the 
great  centre  of  the  worship  of  Venus  in  antiquity,  is 
now  partly  occupied  by  the  small  village  of  Kouklia, 
consisting  of  about  sixty  houses. 

Paphos  was  said  to  have  been  founded  by  Cinyras, 
and  whether  or  not  he  was  a  mythical  character,  it  is 
certain  that  the  priesthood  and  supreme  power  in 
Paphos  was  vested  in  a  familv  of  Cinyradae,  who 
claimed  their  descent  from  an  ancestor  named  Cinyras. 
The  wealth  of  this  priestly  family  was  proverbial,  and 
that  their  official  position  continued  to  be  one  of  high 
dignity  we  see  from  the  fact  that  at  a  later  period  when 
the  Roman  Senate,  at  the  instigation  of  Clodius,  was 
induced  to  issue  a  decree  dispossessing  Ptolemy  of  the 
kingdom  of  Cyprus,  and  sent  Cato  to  execute  the  order, 
Cato  offered  him,  in  compensation  for  the  throne, 
the  position  of  high  priest.  Few  cities  in  ancient 
times  have  been  so  much  sung  and  glorified  by  the 


CHAP.  VI II.] 


PAPHOS. 


205 


poets  ;  and  does  it  not  seem  an  irony  of  time  to  see, 
to-day,  cased  in  the  walls  of  this  miserable  village,  fine 
architectural  fragments  in  marble  and  granite,  be- 
speaking the  wealth  and  high  culture  of  a  past  age, 
the  cost  of  one  of  which  must  have  been  far  greater  than 
the  value  of  all  the  modern  dwellings  at  Kouklia  ? 

Although  this  spot  was  the  scene  of  great  religious 
events,  and  was  otherwise  important  in  the  island,  yet 
neither  are  there  more  than  a  very  few  ruins  existing 


above  ground,  nor  have  the  explorations  I  have  directed 
there  at  different  times  succeeded  in  bringing  to  light 
anything  of  interest.  I  believe  that  this  absence  of  ruins 
can  be  accounted  for  in  the  following  manner.  Paphos 
was  several  times  overthrown  by  earthquakes.  The 
last  time  the  temple  was  rebuilt,  was  by  Vespasian,  on 
whose  coins  it  is  represented,  but  as  nothing  is  said  of 
the  rebuilding  of  the  city,  it  is  to  be  supposed  that  it 
was  left  in  ruins  ;  probably,  therefore,  during  the  long 
period  that  Cyprus  was  under  the  Roman  and  the 
Byzantine  rule,  a  great  deal  of  the  decorative  and  archi- 


2O6  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  VIII. 

tectural  material  of  Paphos  was  transported  to  the 
other  city,  called  Neo-Paphos,  and  used  for  its  em- 
bellishment. In  the  Acts  of  the  Apostles  it  is  spoken  of 
as  the  official  residence  of  the  Roman  Proconsul,  Paulus 
Sergius,  and  was  therefore  the  capital  of  the  island. 
By  the  time  of  the  Lusignan  Kings,  Palaeo-Paphos  had 
disappeared,  and  its  ruins  under  their  reign  were 
extensively  explored  in  search  of  statuary  and  other 
objects  of  art,  with  which  to  decorate  the  royal  castle 
built  in  its  vicinity.  There  is  scarcely  any  ancient 
tomb  to  be  found  of  a  date  previous  to  the  Roman 
period,  which  had  not  been  opened  centuries  ago.  The 
castle  before  mentioned  was  built  bv  Hu^h  Lusigrian, 

o  o 

at  a  stone's-throw  south  of  the  great  temple,  and  is  now 
also  in  ruins.  The  only  roofed  portion  of  it  is  a  little 
Gothic  chapel,  used  by  its  Turkish  owner  as  a  stable 
for  his  camels  and  donkeys.  I  had  always  thought 
it  more  than  probable  that  this  mediaeval  building 
was  erected  on  the  site  of  the  royal  palace  of  the 
ancient  Kings  of  Paphos,  who  having  been  at  the 
same  time  high  priests  of  the  temple  of  Venus,  would 
naturally,  perhaps,  have  had  their  residence  in  proximity 
to  the  temple.  I  had,  therefore,  a  strong  desire  to 
examine  the  foundations  of  the  castle  ;  but  knowing  by 
long  experience  that  Turks  of  all  classes  are  adverse  to 
archaeological  researches  in  their  grounds,  I  refrained 
from  even  visiting  the  place,  though  I  went  several 
times  to  Paphos  to  dig.  I  superintended  excavations 
there  in  1869,  for  several  months,  with  a  score  of 
diggers,  but  without  discovering  anything  of  importance. 
I  repeated  the  experiment  with  the  personal  assist- 
ance of  Dr.  Friederichs,  of  the  Berlin  Museum,  with  a 
larger  number  of  workmen,  but  with  no  better  success. 
Nevertheless  I  purchased  in  18-0  all  the  area  of  the 
temple  and  that  portion  of  the  peiibolos  or  outside  wall 
which  was  not  occupied  by  houses. 


CHAP.  VIII.] 


EXCAVATIONS    AT    PAPHOS. 


20' 


After  spending  a  large  sum  without  results,  I  became 
convinced  that  only  a  government  with  ample  funds  at 


Stone  Feet  with  a  Cypriote  Inscription,  from  the  Temple  of  Paphos. 

its  command  could  undertake  to  remove  the  many  feet  of 
rubbish  accumulated  there  by  the  successive  rebuildings 


of  the  temple.      "Without  accomplishing  this  preliminary 
work,  which  would  be  both  expensive   and  unremunera- 


208  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.   VIII. 

tive,  no  hope  can  be  entertained  of  unearthing  any 
objects  of  art  belonging  to  the  earliest  Phoenician 
sanctuary. 

I  paid  two  more  visits  to  the  ruins  of  Palseo-Paphos, 
one  in  1874  and  the  other  in  the  winter  of  1875. 
On  one  of  these  occasions  I  observed  the  owner  of 
the  castle  frequently  watching  my  diggers  and  ques- 
tioning them  as  to  whether  they  were  searching  for 
treasure.  The  invariable  answer  was  in  the  negative, 
but  this  did  not  seem  to  satisfy  old  Osman  Aga.  On 
my  last  exploration  in  1875,  this  Turk,  after  having 
dogged  me  for  a  few  clays  wherever  I  went,  became  appa- 
rently convinced  that  I  must  be  searching  for  gold,  and 
cautiously  approaching  me  one  day,  asked  if  I  did  not 
know  of  any  treasure  being  hidden  there,  pointing  to 
his  ruined  castle.  This  question  delighted  as  well  as 
surprised  me,  and  I  told  him  I  did  not  doubt  treasures 
were  buried  there,  but  the  treasures  I  meant  were  not 
such  as  he  would  have  called  by  that  name.  His 
religious  scruples,  however,  vanished  when  I  promised 
him  all  the  gold  found  in  it.  It  was  amusing  to  see 
him  standing  the  whole  day  watching  the  workmen 
very  closely,  and  expecting  at  every  moment  to  see  the 
coveted  treasure  brought  to  light.  I  had  two  borings 
made  in  the  south-east  corner  of  the  castle,  and  found 
that  at  thirteen  feet  below  the  surface  the  base  of  the 
foundations  was  not  yet  reached.  The  next  day  my 
workmen  had  only  fairly  commenced  their  work  when  I 
was  called  out  of  my  tent  to  see  some  very  large  stones 
which  they  had  laid  bare.  These  stones,  upon  which  I 
soon  perceived  that  the  mediaeval  castle  had  been  built, 
were  doubtless  the  foundations  either  of  the  royal 
palace  of  the  kings  of  Paphos,  or  of  some  other  im- 
portant building.  I  was,  therefore,  very  anxious  to 
ascertain  how  deep  thev  went.  My  Turkish  friend  was 
beginning  to  betray  symptoms  of  impatience,  and 


CHAP.  VI II.]  OSMAN    AGA.  2OQ 

seeing  his  courtyard  encumbered  with  stones  and 
excavated  earth,  said  to  one  of  the  diggers  that  if  be- 
fore sundown  the  treasure  (of  which  he  had  promised 
a  small  per-centage  to  them)  was  not  forthcoming  he 
would  not  allo\v  any  more  digging.  Having  been 
informed  of  this,  and  knowing  that  during  the  day  we 
could  not  possibly  reach  the  base  of  those  foundations, 
though  we  were  then  at  forty-one  feet  below  the  surface, 
I  prevented  Osman  Aga  from  putting  his  threat  into 
execution  in  the  following  manner. 

I  had  in  my  pocket  at  the  time  two  gold  coins  of  the 
Emperor  Heraclius,  very  common  in  Cyprus,  and  not 
worth  much  more  than  their  weight  in  gold.  I  called 
the  foreman  apart,  and,  unobserved,  passed  to  him 
these  two  coins,  telling  him  to  do  what  the  king  of 
Naples  used  to  do  at  Pompeii  when  some  royal  per- 
sonage came  to  visit  his  excavations,  namely,  to  have 
previously  discovered  objects  reburied  and  afterwards 
with  much  ceremony  to  have  them  rediscovered  in  the 
presence  of  his  guests.  My  foreman  comprehended, 
and  in  due  course  of  time  the  coins  were  handed  to  the 
Turk,  whose  small  eyes  glittered  with  pleasure,  and  of 
course  after  that  he  was  ready  to  have  his  old  castle 
pulled  down  in  order  to  find  more  gold.  I  am  not  sure 
that  he  did  not  watch  the  whole  night  at  the  mouth  of 
the  shaft  for  fear  that  some  of  the  treasure  might  be 
surreptitiously  extracted.  \Ve  worked  the  whole  of  the 
next  day,  and  towards  evening,  at  the  depth  of  fifty-two 
feet,  reached  the  virgin  soil.  My  object  having  been 
attained,  I  concluded  the  excavations  under  the  castle, 
to  the  great  disgust  of  poor  Osman,  who  died  some 
months  later  fully  convinced,  I  believe,  that  plenty 
more  of  those  gold  coins  could  have  been  found  there 
had  I  but  been  willing  to  continue  digging.  At  the 
depth  of  forty-seven  feet,  I  found  some  broken  jars 
without  any  traces  of  colour  upon  them,  and  two 


ZIO 


CYPRUS. 


[CHAP.  VIII. 


feet     deeper     some     fragments     of    painted    terra-cotta 

vases. 

The  great  Temple  of  Venus  was  situated  on  an 
eminence,  which  at  present  is  at 
a  distance  of  about  twenty-five 
minutes'  walk  from  the  sea.  Some 
parts  of  its  colossal  walls  are  still 
standing,  defying  time  and  the 
stone-cutter,  though  badly  chipped 
by  the  latter. 

One  of  the  wall  stones  measured 
fifteen  feet  ten  inches  in  length,  by 
seven  feet  eleven  inches  in  width, 
and  two  feet  five   inches  in   thick- 
The     stone    is     not     from 


;it  a  Depth  ut~49  feet. 


ness. 


Cyprus,  but  being   a   kind   of  blue 

granite  must  have  been  imported  either  from   Cilicia  or 
from  Egypt. 

The  temple,  as  rebuilt   by  Vespasian,  seems  to  have 
occupied  the  same   area  as  the  former  temple,  and  was 
surrounded  by  a  peribolos  or  outer  wall.      Of  this  a  few 
huge  blocks  only  are  now  extant.      On  the  west  side  of 
this  outer  wall  there  was  a  doorway,  still  plainly  visible. 
Its   width   was    seventeen   feet    nine    inches.      The   two 
sockets  for  the  bolts  upon  which  the  door  swung  are  of 
the  following  dimensions  :   length  six  inches,  width  four 
ancl  a  half  inches,  depth  three  and  a  half  inches.      The 
south-east  wall,    I    ascertained   by  excavating  its  whole 
length,  was  690  feet  long.      The  length  of  the  west  side 
I   could   only  trace   as  far   as   272   leet,   its  continuance 
being   hidden    beneath    the    houses    of     Kouklia.      The 
length  of  the  other  two  sides  I  was  unable  to  ascertain 
for    similar    reasons.      The    walls    of    the    temple    itself, 
made   of   the   kind    of   stone   previously  mentioned,    but 
not  in   such   huge   blocks,  I  was   able  to  trace  correctly, 
by    dint    of   patience  ;    and    though    very    little    is   seen 


CHAP.  VIII.]  THE    TEMPLE    AT    PAPHOS.  211 

above  ground,  yet,  strange  to  say,  the  four  corner-stones 
are  still  standing.  The  north-east  corner-stone  is  cased 
in  a  house  of  Kouklia,  forming  part  of  its  wall  ;  that  of 
the  north-west  stands  in  a  cross  street  of  the  village  by 
itself.  Some  European  travellers  have  mistaken  it  from 
its  present  shape  for  the  emblematic  cone  of  Venus. 
The  south-east  corner  stands  also  by  itself  in  an  open 
field,  where  the  Christian  population  of  Kouklia  burn 
lamps  and  little  wax  candles,  but  in  honour  of  whom,  or 
for  what  purpose,  I  did  not  enquire.  The  fourth  corner- 
stone likewise  forms  part  of  a  modern  dwelling-house. 

The  temple  was  oblong  and  of  the  following  dimen- 
sions :  the  eastern  and  western  walls  measure  221  feet; 
and  the  two  other  sides  167  feet.  I  cannot  vouch  for 
the  exact  measurement  on  account  of  the  difficulties 
I  had  to  encounter,  nevertheless  the  difference  can 
be  of  some  inches  only.  The  corner  stone  of  the 
north-west  side  has  a  hole  in  it  thirteen  inches  in  dia- 
meter ;  a  similar  hole  also  exists  in  the  south-west 
corner  of  the  outer-wall.  As  the  temple  at  Paphos 
possessed  an  Oracle,  these  strange  holes  which  go 
through  the  entire  stone  may  have  been  connected 
with  it.  This  at  least  was  the  opinion  of  Dr. 
Friederichs  when  he  came  to  pay  me  a  visit  at  Paphos. 
From  this  spot,  if  a  person  stand  upon  this  huge 
perforated  stone  he  can  produce  a  clear  and  fine  echo 
of  a  phrase  of  three  or  four  words,  pronounced  in  a 
moderate  tone  of  voice. 

In  the  area  of  the  temple,  at  two  feet  four  inches 
below  the  surface  I  found  a  mosaic  pavement  wrought 
into  stars,  meanders,  and  other  designs,  prettily  com- 
bined for  effect,  and  composed  of  variously  coloured 
marble  tessella?,  white,  yellow,  red,  brown,  and  rose. 
Also  in  the  court-yard  of  two  private  dwellings,  always 
within  the  boundary  of  the  temple,  pieces  of  the  same 
mosaic  pavement  were  uncovered.  Some  three  feet 


212 


CYPRUS. 


[CHAP.  VIII. 


beneath  these  mosaics,  I  found  several  large  pedestals 
of  colossal  statues,  with  Greek  inscriptions  engraved 
upon  them,  and  other  pedestals  were  seen  lying  on 
the  ground,  probably  left  there  by  former  excavators. 
Those  which  I  discovered  under  the  mosaic,  are  mostly 
of  the  same  kind  of  stone  as  the  walls  of  the  temple, 
but  of  a  finer  grain.  The  inscriptions  are  all  of  the 
Ptolemaic  period.  From  this  I  argue  that  Vespasian 
may  after  all  have  only  repaired  the  Temple  of  Paphos, 

Sc-iitciou  Pert  to  i  Inch  . 


-236. 


Plan  of  Groat  Temp;,;. 

or  if  he  rebuilt  it  entirely,  it  had  been  partly  with  the 
former  stones.  I  was  anxious  to  ascertain  the  depth  of 
these  foundations,  and  proved  them  to  be  six  and  a  half 
feet  onlv  ;  but  upon  having  other  borings  made  I 
discovered  another  foundation  beneath  as  massive  as 
those  of  the  castle  and  evidently  of  the  same  period. 
It  is  strange  that  while  boring  these  holes,  I  did  not 
meet  with  any  sculptured  remains,  and  but  very  few 
fragments  of  pottery. 


CHAP.  VIII.]  EXCAVATIONS    AT    PAPHOS.  213 

Two  Christian  churches,  now  both  in  ruins  (one  of 
which  was  built  within  the  area  of  the  temple  and  the 
other  within  the  boundary-wall),  the  Lusignan  Castle, 
and  the  whole  village  of  Kouklia,  have  been  built  with 
the  stones  of  the  ancient  city.  Each  house  has  a 
sheep-pen,  surrounded  by  a  wall  composed  of  these 
ancient  stones,  piled  one  upon  the  other,  without 
mortar.  One  of  the  churches  (the  one  within  thj 
temple  area)  has  several  inscribed  marbles  incased  in 
its  walls,  which  obviously  had  been  so  inscribed  previous 
to  their  being  used  for  building  material  at  the  time 
when  the  church  was  erected.  All  the  pedestals  I  dis- 
covered within  the  area  of  the  temple  I  had  deposited 
in  these  two  churches,  as  they  were  too  heavy  to  be 
removed  further.  I  took  however  a  paper  impression 
from  each  of  them  (see  Appendix).  The  neighbourhood 
of  Kouklia  is  full  of  ancient  tombs  opened  long  ago. 

From  the  elevated  position  which  the  city  of  Paphos 
occupied,  its  famous  temple  must  have  been  visible 
many  miles  out  at  sea.  Gently  sloping  from  Kouklia 
towards  the  shore,  there  is  a  fine  and  fertile  plain  belong- 
ing to  the  castle  ;  this  plain  must  formerly  have  been 
thickly  wooded,  and  was  doubtless  the  grove  spoken 
of  by  Homer.  At  the  moment  I  am  writing,  it  is 
covered  with  ripe  barley,  and  seems  a  sea  of  gold.  A 
few  hundred  yards  from  the  coast  are  the  remains  of 
another  temple,  the  foundations  of  which  are  also 
oblong.  This  must  have  been  the  Temple  of  Venus 
built  to  commemorate  the  spot  on  which  for  the  first 
time  the  beautiful  goddess  is  said  to  have  appeared 
to  the  Cyprians.  It  was  here  that  the  annual  pro- 
cession of  pilgrims,  coming  from  Neo- Paphos  to  visit 
the  great  shrine,  stopped  to  sacrifice  before  ascend- 
ing the  hill  to  visit  the  Sanctuary.  Of  this  temple 
there  are  two  upright  monoliths  remaining  five  leet 
apart,  of  the  same  shape  as  that  described  at  p.  189. 


214 


CYPRUS. 


[CHAP.  VIII. 


The  height  of  these  pyramidal  stones,  though  to-day 
only  eleven  feet  seven  inches  above  ground,  is  from 
their  base  seventeen  feet  ten  inches.  The  one  best 
preserved  measures  at  the  top  three  feet  two  inches  by 
one  foot  four  inches,  and  at  the  base  seven  feet  nine 
inches  by  two  feet  six  inches.  These  monoliths  are  of 
a  brownish  granite,  which  is  not  to  be  found  anywhere 
in  the  island. 


The  Ruins  of  both  Temples  from  the  Sea-shore 


The  river  Bocarus,  now  called  by  another  name, 
still  waters  the  plain,  silently  flowing  a  little  south 
of  these  ruins,  and  empties  itself  into  the  sea.  The 
stream  is  thickly  covered  by  wild  oleanders,  myrtle, 
and  juniper,  and  is  the  favourite  haunt  of  partridges 
and  francolins.  In  1874  I  explored  these  ruins  and 
uncovered  several  portions  of  the  foundations  of  two 
separate  fabrics,  one  of  which  may  have  been  the 
habitation  of  the  priests  and  priestesses  of  the  temple. 
At  a  few  yards  from  the  monoliths  I  disinterred  two 
large  Doric  capitals  and  fragments  of  triglyphs  and 


CHAP.  VIII.]    ANTIQUITIES    FOUND    AT    PAPHOS.  215 

columns  belonging  to  them  ;  one  large  rectangular  stone 
seven  feet  by  five,  probably  used  for  sacrificial  purposes, 
and  some  pieces  of  clay  ware.  Between  the  two  mono- 
liths and  a  little  west  of  them,  half  buried  in  the  soil, 
there  is  what  appeared  to  me  to  be  a  sepulchral  cippus, 
or  it  might  have  been  an  altar.  It  is  three  feet  four 
inches  high  and  two  feet  in  diameter,  with  a  square 
hole  at  the  top  ten  inches  and  a  half  deep  and  seven 
inches  wide. 

This  temple  \vas  small.  The  artificial  plateau  upon 
which  it  was  built,  and  which  reveals  the  foundations  of 
two  separate  edifices,  is  limited  to  sixty-eight  yards.  I 
could  not  find  either  in  the  vicinity  of  these,  or  any- 
where in  the  plain,  any  sepulchres  coeval  with  them. 
Some  750  yards  south-east  of  this  temple,  beyond  the 
river  Bocarus,  some  peasants  of  Kouklia  by  chance, 
about  fifteen  years  ago,  laid  bare  several  vaults,  in 
which  they  found,  according  to  my  informant,  "  won- 
derful things,"  but  I  was  unable  to  learn  what  those 
wonderful  things  were.  I  visited  the  spot  and  saw  that 
in  reality  there  had  been  tombs  there.  I  surveyed  the 
ground,  and  discovered  a  cluster  of  fifty  occupying 
about  half  an  acre.  These  graves  had  all  been  opened 
and  ransacked  long  ago.  In  one  of  them  I  found 
a  large  Greek  amphora  intact,  over  three  feet  high, 
with  both  of  its  handles  inscribed,  and  two  terra-cotta 
horsemen.  From  the  head  of  Helios,  stamped  upon 
one  handle,  and  the  rose  on  the  other,  it  is  easy 
to  recognise  this  amphora  as  having  been  made  in 
Rhodes,  and  probably  used  for  the  exportation  to 
Cyprus  of  oil,  or  other  thick  liquid,  as  it  would  have 
been  too  porous  for  wine. 

East  of  Kouklia  commences  that  range  of  lofty 
mountains,  the  highest  of  which,  now  called  Troodos, 
was  known  as  Mt.  Olympus.  Kouklia  is  one  of  the 
poorest  villages  of  Cyprus.  Its  male  inhabitants  always 


216 


CYPRUS. 


[CHAP.  VIII. 


else- 


leave  their  homes    in    the   summer  months  to  go 
where  in  search  of  work  and  food. 

The  dance,  music  and  song,  and  the  sacred  pro- 
cessions of  three  thousand  years  ago  have  been  replaced 
by  the  shrill  coo-coo-vaie  of  the  owl  and  wild  cries  of 
other  night  birds,  and  the  piteous  bark  of  famished 
dogs  left  behind  by  no  less  famished  masters,  to  roam 
the  deserted  village  in  search  of  carrion.  This  is  the 
Paphos  of  to-day  ! 


Amphora  with  two  circular  stamps  on  handles. 


CHAPTER   IX. 

No  ruins  of  Arsinoe  on  site  mentioned  by  Strabo. — Garden  and  Bath 
of  A'enus. — Neo-Paphos  founded  by  Arcadians.  -The  Turks 
oppose  diggings  by  force.---St.  Paul's  column  — Rock-cut  tombs. 
— Imprisonment  of  two  notable  Turks. — Cape  Acamas.  —  Ruins  of 
ancient  town  Soloi,  its  theatre. — Discovery  of  temple  with  statues 
and  inscriptions. --Lapethus. — Discovery  of  temple  with  statues 
and  inscriptions. — Cerynia  now  a  fortress. — No  remains  of  ancient 
city. — Scene  with  the  Turks. — Abbey  of  Lapais. — Cerynia  to 
Aphrodisium. — Ruins  of  four  ancient  towns  near  the  seashore. — 
Harbour  and  temple  of  Aphrodisium. — Mediaeval  castles  of  Buffa- 
vento  and  Kantara. — The  hermit  Simeon. — Cythrea. — Discovery 
of  two  temples. — Statues  and  inscriptions. — Nicosia. — Tombs  of 
the  oldest  period. — The  lepers. 

HAVING  brought  my  unprofitable  researches  at  Paphos 
to  a  termination,  I  resolved  to  visit  the  ruins  of  Xeo- 
Paphos  and  the  northern  coast,  as  far  as  the  site  of 
Aphrodisium,  and  there  crossing  the  mountain  range 
into  Mesaoria  to  return  by  way  of  Cythrea  to  Larnaca. 
After  an  hour  and  a  half  of  an  easy  ride  northward 
from  the  ruins  of  Paphos,  our  course  being  along  the 
edge  of  a  plain  which  stretches  down  to  the  sea  and 
across  the  slopes  of  hills  covered  with  underwood  of 
juniper,  we  reached  the  village  of  Koloni.  In  some  of 
these  hills  are  found  the  "asbestos,"  specimens  of  which 
were  shown  to  me  by  peasants  of  the  vicinity,  and  the 
"  diamond  of  Paphos  ;  "  the  latter,  however,  is  but  rock 
crystal  of  a  rather  superior  quality.  These  hills  yield 


2l8  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  IX. 

fossil  shells  in  large  quantities,  and  earths  of  different 
colours,  green,  carmine  and  yellow,  are  met  with  now 
and  then  in  the  district,  but  the  earth  called  "  terra 
d' umbra,"  which  is  so  abundant  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  Larnaca,  and  forms  one  of  its  articles  of  export,  is 
found  nowhere  here. 

\Ye  passed  on  our  right  the  villages  of  Mandria, 
Dimi,  and  Ascelia,  represented  by  small  clusters  of 
huts.  I  observed  at  three  or  four  places  on  the  route 
foundations  of  ancient  structures  just  emerging  from 
the  surface,  but  of  small  dimensions.  The  ancient 
route  from  Xeo-Paphos  to  the  great  Sanctuary  of 
Paphos  very  probably  followed  the  same  line  on  which 
we  now  were,  and  it  is  not  unlikely  that  the  ruins 
just  mentioned  may  be  the  remains  of  the  small  shrines 
which  existed  along  the  roadside. 

Ten  minutes'  ride  from  Koloni,  in  a  north-west  di- 
rection, is  leroskipo,  consisting  of  a  small  group  of 
dwelling-houses  ;  the  name  being  evidently  a  survival 
of  the  ancient  Kieroskepis,  "  Sacred  Garden,"  that  is, 
the  well-known  Garden  of  Venus,  who  in  Cyprus,  as 
well  as  in  Athens,  was  regarded  as  a  goddess  of  spring 
time  and  flowers.  Cupid  lived  with  her  in  Cyprus,  and 
it  was  from  Cyprus  that  the  first  flush  of  spring  burst 
upon  the  earth.  There  is  a  large  cave  which  seems  to 
have  been  artificially  scooped  out  of  the  rock,  through 
which  a  spring  makes  its  way,  and  after  filling  the 
cavern  as  a  reservoir  overflows  and  forms  a  little  rivulet 
sufficient  to  water  the  neighbouring  fields  ;  this  is  known 
as  the  "  Bath  of  Aphrodite."  I  must  say  he  would  be 
obdurate  indeed  to  the  charms  of  Nature  who  would  not 
be  captivated  by  the  great  beauty  of  the  spot.  The 
ground  generally  slopes  gently  towards  the  sea,  but 
here  it  seems  to  have  been  cut  into  large  plateaux 
or  terraces,  which  are  surrounded  by  a  thick  grove  of 
olive  trees  apparently  many  centuries  old.  Among  the 


CHAP.  IX.]  NEO-PAPHOS.  2IQ 

olives  is  a  sprinkling  of  carob  trees,  which  with  their 
dark  green  and  lustrous  foliage  form  a  striking  contrast 
to  the  pale  hue  of  the  olive  leaf.  In  close  proximity  to 
leroskipo  are  a  number  of  rock-cut  tombs,  all  opened 
long  ago,  but  no  vestiges  of  buildings  are  visible. 

We  spent  twenty  minutes  more  in  our  saddles,  con- 
tinuing in  the  same  northerly  direction,  and  then  we 
reached  the  site  where  once  stood  the  royal  city  of  Xeo- 
Paphos.  Judging  from  the  great  amount  of  debris 
scattered  over  many  acres  of  ground,  this  city  must 
have  contained  a  population  of  20,000  or  25,000  souls. 
It  was  originally  the  settlement  of  a  Greek  colonv  of 

o  J  •/ 

Arcadians  led  by  Agapenor,  as  we  learn  from  the 
testimony  of  Pausanias  (viii.  5,  2)  and  Strabo,  but 
whether  these  Arcadians  had  found  a  Phoenician  town 
existing  on  the  spot  cannot  be  ascertained.  The 
original  name  was  Erythras,  according  to  Stephanus 
Byzantinus,  and  it  was  probably  from  its  connection 
with  Paphos  proper,  from  its  being  the  starting  point 
of  the  processions  to  the  Temple  of  Venus  at  Paphos, 
that  the  name  of  Enthral  was  gradually  superseded  by 
Neo-Paphos.  In  the  Iliad  (ii.  609)  Agapenor  is  given 
as  the  leader  of  the  Arcadians  in  the  Trojan  expedition, 
bringing  to  it  sixteen  ships,  and  we  are  told  by  Pausanias 
(viii.  5,  3)  that  in  the  storm  which  scattered  the  Greek 
fleet  on  its  return  from  Troy,  the  ships  of  the  Arcadians 
were  driven  to  Cyprus,  where  the  leader  Agapenor 
founded  Xeo- Paphos.  Agapenor  and  his  Arcadians 
were  accredited  with  having  introduced  copper  mining 
into  the  district,  but  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  the 
mines  had  been  profitably  worked  by  the  Phcunicians 
long  before  the  period  of  the  Greek  colonization.  A 
distich  handed  down  by  Pausanias  says  that  Laodice,  a 
daughter  of  Agapenor,  dedicated  a  pcplus  to  the  goddess 
Athena  Alea  at  Tegea  in  Arcadia  by  way  of  showing 
her  affection  for  her  native  countrv.  Probablv  the 


22O  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.   IX. 

pcplos  was  embroidered,  and  was  a  specimen  of  the  high 
skill  in  this  art  which  Cyprus  had  attained  in  early 
times. 

Very  few  architectural  remains  are  to  be  found 
among  the  heaps  of  loose  stones  collected  by  the 
owners  of  the  ground,  so  as  to  admit  of  some  crops 
of  barley  being  raised  on  the  fields,  and  though  Xeo- 
Paphos  looks  as  if  destroyed  but  recently,  yet,  with 
the  exception  of  a  few  columns  and  insignificant  pieces 
of  walls,  nothing  is  now  standing  of  the  ancient  city. 
To  have  made  excavations  here  on  an  adequate  scale, 
would  have  been  much  too  costly  for  my  means ; 
but  even  had  it  been  otherwise  there  was  an  obstacle 
in  the  way  which  rendered  the  exploration  of  that 
locality  on  my  part  a  matter  of  impossibility.  The 
ground  belonged  to  several  Turks  of  the  town  of 
Ktima,  a  short  distance  east  of  these  ruins,  where  is 
the  official  residence  of  a  Caimakam,  a  Cadi,  and  a 
Greek  Bishop.  The  Turks  there  are  more  uncouth 
and  fanatical  than  anywhere  else  in  Cyprus,  and  I 
had  some  evidence  of  this  on  several  occasions.  In 
1868,  I  sent  a  party  of  my  diggers  from  Larnaca  in 
charge  of  a  foreman  to  make  some  experimental 
borings  there,  but  they  were  stoned  by  the  Turks, 
and  compelled  to  run  for  their  life.  In  the  subse- 
quent year,  after  the  assurance  of  the  Pasha,  and  a 
stringent  letter  from  him  to  the  Caimakam  of  Ktima 
to  see  that  my  men  should  not  be  molested  in  their 
diggings,  I  sent  another  party,  accompanied  by  my 
dragoman  Besbes  ;  nevertheless  a  few  days  later  they 
were  attacked  by  a  Turkish  mob,  forced  to  leave  their 
tools  behind  and  run  away.  My  dragoman  received  in- 
structions from  me  to  prosecute  the  ringleaders  before 
the  Cadi,  but  they  were  so  leniently  treated  by  this 
functionary,  that  the  punishment  was  more  calculated 
to  encourage  than  to  deter  them  from  similar  offences  ; 


CHAP.  IX.]  PUNISHMENT    OF    TWO    TURKS.  221 

under  these  circumstances,  and  finding  that  without  my 
continual  presence  the  men  would  not  be  unmolested, 
I  had  abandoned  the  idea  of  further  diggings  in  this 
district. 

The  Caimakam  of  Ktima  having  been  informed  of 
my  arrival  at  Xeo-Paphos,  sent  an  officer  with  four 
policemen  to  place  themselves  at  my  disposal.  After 
having  loitered  about  in  search  of  sculptures  and  in- 
scriptions for  a  couple  of  hours  or  so,  I  set  out  for 
Ktima.  We  had  reached  the  western  outskirts  of  the 
town  when  we  met  two  Turks  of  the  better  class. 
Noticing  our  cavalcade,  one  said  to  the  other,  "  Who 
is  that  dog  ?  '  "  Some  great  giaour,  may  Allah 
confound  him!"  answered  the  other,  and  they  con- 
tinued their  route.  As  I  was  sufficiently  acquainted 
with  the  Turkish  language  to  understand  what  they 
had  said,  I  called  the  officer  of  the  guard  and  ordered 
him  to  arrest  the  two  cffcndis.  The  officer,  though 
with  evident  reluctance,  obeyed.  It  is  impossible  for 
me  to  describe  the  abject  demonstrations  of  outward 
repentance  which  these  two  Turks  showed  when  they 
found  out  that  I  had  understood  their  conversation. 
"  Consolos  Bey,  pardon,  pardon,  Consolos  Bey,"  they 
exclaimed,  and  taking  hold  of  my  stirrups  began  kiss- 
ing my  dusty  boots,  repeating  many  times  the  word 
"pardon;"  but  it  was  of  no  avail.  I  decided  to  give  a 
good  lesson  to  them  and  to  the  other  Turks  of  Ktima 
for  the  former  ill  treatment  of  my  diggers,  so  I  had 
them  marched  off  between  the  four  policemen  through 
the  bazaar  of  Ktima,  which  naturally  created  a  sensa- 
tion, and  as  the  hour  in  which  the  Turkish  tribunals 
are  open  was  passed,  they  had  to  be  locked  up  for  the 
night  in  the  common  jail. 

The  Caimakam,  as  soon  as  he  was  informed  of  the 
occurrence,  called  at  my  lodgings  and  warmly  inter- 
ceded for  the  liberation  of  these  men  from  prison,  thev 


222  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.   IX. 

being,  as  he  said,  two  "notables"  of  Ktima.  I  told  the 
Caimakam  that  had  they  been  two  Turkish  peasants, 
I  would  have  acceded  readily  to  his  request,  as  their 
ignorance  would  have  pleaded  in  their  favour,  but  as 
they  were  "  Turks  of  distinction  "  they  had  no  such  ex- 
cuse, and  I  insisted  that  they  should  be  punished  accord- 
ing to  the  Turkish  laws  ;  and  my  dragoman  was  in- 
structed to  explain  to  the  Caimakam  that  if  he  dared  to 
release  them  without  my  consent,  I  would  have  him 
dismissed  from  his  official  position.  Mehemet  Bey  had 
been  appointed  Caimakam  of  Ktima  chiefly  on  a  letter 
of  recommendation  I  had  given  him  for  the  Pasha,  and 
he  knew  how  easily  his  removal  could  be  obtained. 
Shortly  after  his  departure,  two  veiled  Hanonms  (ladies) 
were  announced  as  the  wives  of  the  prisoners ;  they 
commenced  as  usual  by  wailing,  kissing  the  pavement, 
and  begging  for  the  release  of  their  lords  and  masters. 
One  of  them  wore  a  very  thin  veil  over  her  face  (this 
in  Turkey  is  an  evidence  of  beauty).  I  felt  some  pity 
for  the  thinlv  veiled  lady,  but  nevertheless  remained 
inflexible. 

In  the  morning,  at  the  usual  hour  when  the  Cadi 
held  his  sittings,  my  dragoman  brought  the  case  before 
his  lordship  (who  was  a  negro),  so  forcibly,  that  after 
hearing  the  witnesses  for  the  prosecution,  he  dispensed 
with  hearing  the  prisoners,  and  condemned  the  two 
effendis  to  one  month's  imprisonment. 

I  remained  at  Ktima  for  a  week,  and  in  the  course  of 
this  time  was  able  to  convince  myself  that  the  ruins 
of  Xeo-Paphos  contained  no  important  monuments  or 
fragment  of  monument  worth  the  trouble  I  had  taken. 
I  could  not  of  course  make  a  regular  excavation,  with- 
out obtaining  the  permission  of  the  owners  ot  the 
fields,  but  I  made  some  slight  diggings  at  two  places 
without  hindrance.  One  of  these  places  was  the  site 
of  a  temple,  of  which  three  large  granite  columns 


CHAP.  IX.]  EXCAVATIONS    AT    KTIMA.  223 

were  still  standing.  I  discovered  the  bases  of  nine 
other  columns  at  a  few  inches  below  the  surface,  still 
occupying  their  original  position  ;  all  around  are 
strewn  architectural  fragments  which  had  belonged  to 
that  structure.  The  other  spot  is  near  a  broken 
column  of  white  marble  still  standing,  and  about  seven 
feet  high,  to  which  it  is  asserted  St.  Paul  was  tied 
and  whipped  when  he  came  to  preach  the  Gospel  in 
this  city  ;  but  this  tradition  is,  so  far  as  I  know,  current 
only  among  the  Greek  population  of  Ktima.  In  this 
locality  there  are  also  shafts  of  columns,  some  blocks 
of  triglyphs,  and  volutes  lying  on  the  ground,  probably 
also  the  remains  of  a  temple.  A  silver  coin  of  Ves- 
pasian, with  the  Temple  of  Paphos  represented  on  it 
(but  whether  meant  for  that  of  Paphos  or  for  a  temple 
of  Neo-Paphos  is  not  known)  and  a  few  Roman  lamps, 
were  all  that  I  found  during  my  week's  exploration  at 
Xeo-Paphos. 

A  little  to  the  north-east,  and  half  way  between  these 
ruins  and  Ktima,  there  is  a  rocky  eminence  sloping 
towards  the  sea,  and  called  Palaso-C astro,  the  surface 
of  which  is  perforated  with  thousands  of  ancient  tombs, 
some  cut  vertically,  and  others  horizontally  in  the 
calcareous  rock.  Some  are  made  to  contain  only  one 
body,  while  others  are  large  enough  for  a  score  or  more. 
These  graves  are  all  evidently  pre-Roman.  I  had  the 
rubbish  removed  from  one  of  the  largest,  and  found 
it  to  be  an  oblong  building,  with  an  atrium  supported 
by  three  monolithic  columns  roughly  hewn  out  of  the 
limestone,  and  with  a  court-yard  in  front  of  it.  The 
tomb  is  divided  into  four  chambers  which  communi- 
cate inside  with  each  other,  but  have  each  a  separate 
entrance.  They  have  a  large  number  of  niches,  seven 
feet  by  two,  each  to  contain  one  body.  Near  the  wall 
facing  the  doorway  of  each  chamber  there  is  a  low  plat- 
form hewn  in  the  rock,  on  which  apparently  stood  a 


224 


CYPRUS. 


[CHAP.  IX. 


sarcophagus,  but  nothing  of  it  now  remains.  The  court- 
yard contains  also  several  single  graves,  but  all  have 
been  opened  long  ago.  This  must  have  been  the  family 
sepulchre  of  a  great  personage,  and  possibly  of  one  of 
the  kings  of  Paphos. 


On  the  eve  of  my  departure  from  Ktima,  I  had  the  two 
Turks  released  from  prison,  after  they  had  begged  mv 
pardon  in  the  presence  of  the  Caimakam,  the  Greek 
Bishop,  and  other  officials.  In  this  case  I  was  obliged 
to  make  a  virtue  of  necessity,  for  I  knew  very  well  that 
as  soon  as  I  was  out  of  the  town  they  would  have  been 
released.  After  that  salutary  lesson  the  Turks  of  Ktima 
nicknamed  me  Scitun  (the  devil),  and  have  had  ever  since 
a  wholesome  fear  of  him  in  my  person. 

When  in  1876  I  visited  Nc-o-Paphos  for  the  second 
and  last  time,  I  was  in  company  with  two  Americans. 
Professor  Isaac  H.  Hall,  who  has  been  the  first  American 
to  contribute  to  the  decipherment  of  the  Cypnote  cha- 
racters, and  General  S.  W.  Crawford,  a  gallant  officer 
of  our  regular  army.  We  had  scarcely  left  the  heights 
of  Kouklia  (Paphos),  when  we  saw  a  troop  ot  soldiers, 
headed  by  their  officers  with  drawn  swords,  advancing 
towards  us.  At  a  little  distance  they  formed  into  line, 
and  on  our  approaching  presented  arms.  Alter  which 
Yusuf  Aga,  the  captain,  advanced  and  informed  us  that 


CHAP.  IX.]  NEO-PAPHOS    REVISITED.  225 

he  had  received  orders  from  the  Caimakam  of  Ktima  to 
proceed  as  far  as  Kouklia,  and  on  meeting-  the 
"  Consolos  Bey  "  (i.e.,  the  devil,)  to  escort  him  to  Ktima. 
I  saw  that  the  lesson  had  borne  good  fruits. 

From  Ktima  to  Cape  Acamas,  the  way  along  the 
sea-shore  is  not  practicable  because  of  the  steepness  of 
the  cliffs.  That  route  failing,  we  took  our  course  over 
mountains  destitute  of  vegetation,  and  without  meeting 
with  any  ancient  vestiges.  After  passing  a  village 
called  Floraca,  the  ridges  begin  to  be  covered  with 
brushwood,  but  only  as  far  as  the  village  of  Lemba. 
At  this  place  a  peasant  conducted  me  to  the  sea-shore 
through  a  passage  in  a  craggy  ravine,  to  see  some  rock- 
cut  tombs,  which  are  near  a  headland  called  Drepano, 
but  there  are  no  remains  of  ancient  habitations  in  the 
neighbourhood,  though  the  quantity  of  tombs  there 
must  have  belonged  to  some  ancient  town  not  far  off. 
A  few  hundred  yards  east  of  these  tombs,  are  the 
crumbling  walls  of  an  early  Greek  church.  At  Criso- 
nerki  the  village  priest  insisted  that  on  a  fiat-topped  hill 
overlooking  his  village,  there  were  the  ruins  of  a  Palieo- 
Castro,  and  several  inscriptions.  Although  much 
fatigued,  I  nevertheless  ascended  the  steep  limestone 
peak,  and  found  on  it  the  remains  of  another  Greek 
church  dedicated  to  Aghios  Jorgos  ;  the  inscrip- 
tions were  modern  names  cut  with  a  knife  on  the 
limestone,  or  written  with  a  lead  pencil  !  This  kind  of 
disappointment  I  have  had  to  experience  more  than 
once.  From  Crisonerki  I  was  obliged  to  retrace  my 
steps  to  Lemba,  as  there  is  no  pathway  northward 
among  those  rugged  hills  suitable  for  mules.  After 
leaving  Rhodos  and  Critoterra,  two  small  miserable- 
looking  villages  situated  on  low  tlat  hills  with  an  upland 
plain  in  front  of  them,  studded  with  wild  olive  trees,  we 
soon  emerged  from  a  ravine  into  a  plain  watered  bv  a 
stream,  which  gives  its  name  to  a  large  village  called 

Q 


226  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  IX. 

Krysoko  built  on  its  eastern  bank.  Half  an  hour  north 
of  this  there  is  another  village  called  Poli,  but  consider- 
ably smaller,  and  situated  on  the  western  bank  of  the 
stream.  This  little  village  occupies  a  portion  of  the 
site  of  the  ancient  city  of  Arsinoe.  The  scarcity  of 
remains  is  explained  by  its  proximity  to  the  southern 
coast  of  Cilicia,  from  which,  I  am  told,  boats  come 
loaded  with  timber,  and  after  discharging  their  cargo 
it  has  been  the  practice  of  these  boatmen  to  load  their 
crafts  with  the  hewn  stones  of  the  district.  I  was  also 
told  that  some  inscriptions  and  sculptures  were  carried 
away  by  these  boatmen  into  Caramania.  Strabo  places 
in  this  neighbourhood  a  temple  and  a  grove  of  Jupiter, 
but  I  could  not  find  any  traces  of  either. 

The  hills  west  of  Poli  contain  many  rock-cut  tombs, 
and  in  the  fields  east  of  the  ruins  are  many  oven-shaped 
tombs,  excavated  in  the  earth  like  those  of  Idalium,  and 
containing  drab-coloured  pottery,  roughly  made  without 
any  painting  or  ornamentation,  a  few  Egyptian  scarabsei 
and  amulets  in  a  green  glazed  clay,  and  copper  coins 
with  two  eagles  on  one  side,  and  the  head  of  a  Ptolemy 
on  the  other.  The  rock-cut  tombs  are  all  open,  but 
appear  to  me  to  be  much  older  than  those  existing  in 
the  fields  east  of  Poli.  From  this  place,  following  the 
tortuous  windings  of  the  sea-shore,  we  journeyed  west- 
ward until  we  reached  a  secluded  thicklv  wooded  spot, 
rendered  famous  by  Ariosto,  and  called  "  Fontana 
Amorosa  ; "  at  that  place  there  seems  to  be  a  mineral 
spring,  judging  from  the  iron  rust  seen  on  the  stones 
washed  bv  the  water.  In  the  immediate  neighbourhood 
of  Cape  Acamas.  between  two  curiously  shaped  conical 
peaks,  I  discovered  the  ruins  of  an  ancient  town  which 
I  do  not  see  mentioned  in  Strabo,  Ptolemy,  or  other 
authors.  Perhaps  thev  are  only  the  remains  of  some 
ancient  village  of  no  importance. 

Near   this    Cape    we    iound   several   hundred    vultures 


CHAP.  IX.]  SOLI.  227 

feasting  upon  the  carcase  of  a  mule.  They  took  no 
notice  of  our  approach,  and  we  could  have  ridden  over 
them  if  our  animals  had  not  been  frightened  and  refused 
to  advance.  I  had  a  good  opportunity  to  remark  them. 
They  are  very  large  ;  some  entirely  gray,  but  the  greatest 
number  are  brown,  their  heads  and  necks  thickly  covered 
with  a  white  down,  and  not  bare,  as  those  I  have  seen 
elsewhere.  The  smell  of  musk  or  something  like  it  which 
they  emitted,  almost  exceeded  the  stench  of  the  carrion. 

On  returning  from  the  Cape,  I  pitched  my  tents  out- 
side the  town  of  Poli,  and  remained  for  two  days  exploring 
some  tombs  while  waiting  to  renew  our  supply  of  bread. 
On  the  third  day  we  proceeded  eastward,  always  among 
the  mountains,  till  we  reached  the  village  of  Pyrgas,  where 
we  encamped  for  the  night.  Xo  ancient  vestiges  were 
met  with  from  Poli  to  this  spot.  From  Pyrgas,  continuing 
to  travel  among  the  mountains,  we  reached  a  few  ware- 
houses and  a  Turkish  Custom-house  near  the  seashore, 
called  Karavastasi,  a  few  hundred  yards  south  of  which 
is  the  site  of  the  ancient  royal  city  of  Soli  or  Soloi. 

According  to  the  story  of  Plutarch  (Vit.  Solon.  26) 
the  Athenian  legislator  Solon,  who  as  we  know,  spent 
his  latter  years  in  Soli,  had  on  a  previous  occasion 
visited  Cyprus,  and  was  then  the  friend  and  guest  of 
Philocyprus  or  Cypranor  the  king  of  Aipeia,  a  rocky 
and  comparatively  barren  place  among  the  hills  here. 
Solon  pointed  out  the  fertile  and  beautiful  plain  below, 
and  advised  his  friend  to  transfer  his  people  to  it. 
Philocyprus  took  the  advice,  and  named  the  new  town 
from  his  friend  Solon.  This  fiction^  very  obvious  in 
itself,  is  done  away  with  by  the  occurrence  of  the  name 
of  Soli  among  the  Cypriote  monarchies  which  sent 
presents  to  Esarhaddon  a  century  before  the  time  ot 
Solon  ;  at  the  same  time  it  would  seem  that  the  Greek 
settlers  in  this  district  of  the  island  were  in  tact  chiefly 
Attic.  From  the  inscribed  Assyrian  cvlinder  on  which 


228  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  IX. 

the  names  of  the  kings  occur,  Mr.  George  Smith 
(History  of  Assyria,  p.  130)  was  unable  to  decipher  more 
than  three  letters  of  the  name  of  the  King  of  Soli.  He 
read  them  to  Kin  .  .  .  which  by  conjecture  may  have  been 
the  favourite  Cypriote  name  of  Cinyras.  In  the  "Records 
of  the  Past,"  iii.  p.  108,  this  name  is  read  Erill. 

In  historical  times  Soli  was,  next  to  Salamis,  the 
most  important  city  of  the  island,  while  its  share  in  the 
revolt  against  the  Persians,  and  its  stubborn  resistance 
of  them,  reflect  the  highest  credit  upon  it.  It  refused 
to  join  Salamis  under  Evagoras,  when  along  with  the 
Athenians  under  Conon  it  entered  on  a  league  with 
Artaxerxes  to  crush  the  Lacedemonians.  But  after- 
wards (B.C.  391),  when  in  consequence  of  the  con- 
federacy, Evagoras  sought  to  make  himself  master  of 
the  whole  island,  Soli  combined  with  Amathus  and 
Citium,  sent  to  the  Persian  Court  to  ask  Artaxerxes  for 
help  against  Evagoras,  and  this  they  succeeded  in 
obtaining.  It  is  probable  that  Soli  derived  considerable 
wealth  from  the  copper  mines  near  it. 

The  city  stood  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river  Clarios, 
now  a  winter  torrent,  and  covered  the  northern  slope  of 
a  low  hill  (detached  from  a  higher  range)  and  extended 
over  the  field  at  the  base  of  the  hill  to  within  a  feu- 
hundred  yards  of  the  shore,  where  are  still  to  be  seen 
vestiges  of  its  harbour.  Midway  up  the  slope  is  a 
semicircular  stone  structure,  which  appears  to  have 
been  a  theatre.  In  a  former  visit  I  uncovered  at  the 
lower  part  of  it  some  stone  steps  or  seats  which 
extended  round  the  semicircle.  Only  the  lower  part 
now  remains.  Eor  the  past  ten  years,  to  my  own  know- 
ledge, this  ruin  has  been  a  quarry  to  the  corn-dealers  of 
Lefca,  furnishing  all  the  stones  thev  required  for  the 
construction  of  their  warehouses  on  the  beach  at 
Karavastasi,  from  which  point  is  shipped  all  the  grain 
raised  in  the  north-western  district  of  the  island. 


EXCAVATIONS    AT    SOLI. 


22Q 


On  the  same  slope  are  the  foundations  of  a  circular 
building  with  a  cave  beneath  it,  which  seems  to  have 
been  a  little  temple.  These  foundations  consist  of 
huo-e  blocks  of  limestone  quarried  from  the  neighbour- 

o 

ing:    hills.      In    the    area    of 

o 

this  ruin  I  found,  besides 
several  fragments  of  columns 
and  capitals  in  marble  and 
granite,  an  oblong  marble 

o 

slab  with  a  Greek  inscrip- 
tion (see  Appendix),  much 
injured,  but  containing  the 
names  of  Soli  and  of  the 
Pro  -  Consul  Paulus,  most 
probably  the  Sergius  Paulus 
who  is  mentioned  in  the 
Acts  of  the  Apostles.  In 
the  same  area  I  discovered 
a  headless  figure  of  Cybele 
in  pure  white  marble.  These 
may  be  the  ruins  of  a  temple 
of  Cybele,  whose  worship 
would  be  at  home,  so  to 
speak,  here  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of  the  rich  copper-mines 

of  the  district  of  Soli.  Most  of  the  stones  have  been 
piled  up  by  the  owners  of  the  ground  in  order  to  raise  a 
field  of  barley.  The  slopes  of  the  hills  west  of  Soli  and 
the  plain  at  the  foot  of  them  are  full  of  ancient  tombs. 
In  this  plain  the  site  of  each  tomb  is  easily  recognised 
by  an  unhewn  stone,  which,  in  some  cases,  is  just  seen 
emerging  from  the  soil,  and  in  others  is  found  Irom  a 
few  inches  to  three  feet  below  the  surface.  The  tombs 
on  the  hills  have  all  been  opened  long  ago.  They  are 
very  large,  and  mostly  cut  out  of  the  limestone  of  which 
the  hills  are  formed.  Those  on  the  plain  contain,  in 


2^0  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  IX. 

most  cases,  only  the  skeleton  of  one  person,  and  are  ot 


the   usual  oven-shaped  style.      The   objects  occasionally 

found  in  them  are  terra-cotta 
jars,  of  the  very  lustrous 
red  colour  peculiar  to  the 
so-called  Samian  ware,  but 
with  rare  exceptions  they 
are  without  any  ornament. 
These  must  have  been  the 
graves  of  poor  people. 

South-east  of  these  ruins, 
in  a  gorge  of  the  mountains, 
there  is  an  upland  plain, 

on  which  is  built  the  village  of  Lefca,  the  residence  of  a 


CHAP.  IX.]  LEFCA    (AIPEIA  ?  ).  231 

Mudir,  or  local  Governor  ;  the  town  is  surrounded  by  a 
great  number  of  gardens  full  of  orange,  lemon,  pome- 
granate, and  fig-trees,  with  an  abundant  supply  of  water. 
In  this  part  of  the  country  the  soil  is  very  rich,  and 
adapted  for  almost  any  kind  of  cultivation.  Many  shrubs 
and  climbing  plants  are  seen  everywhere  growing  wild, 
among  which  the  iris  is  common.  The  slopes  of  the 
hills  are  covered  with  olive-trees,  which  produce  an  ex- 
cellent oil ;  the  ash  and  the  carob  trees  are  also  not 
unfrequently  met  with,  but  the  latter  spreads  specially 
in  largfe  bushes,  some  of  which  measure  120  feet  in  cir- 

o 

cumference  ;  the  oleander  and  myrtle  grow  likewise  in 
thick  bushes,  among  which  is  seen  the  anemone  and 
clematis,  and  a  great  variety  of  other  wild  flowers,  with 
the  names  of  which  I  am  not  acquainted. 

West  of  the  village  of  Lefca,  on  the  crest  of  a  steep 
hill,  are  the  ruins  of  a  very  ancient  town  which 
has  been  correctly,  I  think,  identified  by  travellers  as 
Aipeia,  of  which,  according  to  the  story  of  Plutarch, 
Soli  was  a  colony,  but  these  ruins  are  not  very  exten- 
sive, and  they  have  to-day  no  name  ;  the  necropolis 
belonging  to  it  is  on  the  western  slope  of  the  same  hill, 
and  continues  along  the  ridge  of  two  other  hills  con- 
nected with  it.  The  objects  I  found  in  one  of  the  tombs 
are  precisely  like  those  at  Soli,  namely,  jars  and  vases 
of  a  lustrous  red  colour. 

From  Lefca  we  soon  entered  the  plain  of  Mesaoria, 
and  reached  Morfou,  two  and  a  half  hours  distant. 
This  is  the  largest  village  in  Cyprus  at  the  present  clay, 
and  numbers  from  550  to  600  houses.  Its  inhabitants 
are  mostly  Christians.  Just  outside  the  village  is  a 
large  Greek  convent,  in  the  courtyard  of  which  I 
remarked  a  number  of  very  fine  marble  Corinthian 
capitals,  which  adorn  shafts  of  wooden  columns  in 
support  of  a  roof  of  mud.  Attached  to  this  convent 
is  a  school  for  boys,  of  whom  there  are  about  200 


232  CYPRUS,  [CHAP.   IX. 

from  six  to  twelve  years  of  age.  The  convent  has 
a  Gothic  church  and  some  walls  belonging  to  a 
mediaeval  building,  probably  a  Latin  convent  built  in 
the  time  of  the  Lusignans. 

From  Morfou  I  started  for  Lapethus,  a  distance  of 
five  hours1  ride,  still  keeping  among  the  mountains. 
Midway  from  Morfou  there  is  an  upland  plain,  and  on 
it  a  large  Greek  convent,  with  a  cluster  of  houses  called 
Aghios  Pantelemoni.  Here  resides  the  Bishop  of 
Cerynia,  a  fine  old  man,  who,  whenever  I  passed  that 
way,  was  kindness  itself  to  me.  Having  been  educated 
at  Venice  he  has  always  had  a  special  affection  for 
Italians,  and  when  he  happened  to  know  of  my  coming 
he  would  have  the  bells  rung  and  all  his  staff  of 
priests  sent  out  to  meet  and  escort  me  to  his  residence, 
where  a  warm  welcome  and  a  patriarchal  repast,  more 
abundant  than  select,  were  sure  to  be  in  waiting.  On 
account  of  his  great  age  he  seldom  leaves  his  apartments, 
but  on  these  occasions  he  would  insist  on  being  carried 
down  stairs,  and  be  at  the  door  of  his  convent  to 
receive  me,  this  being  considered  a  high  token  of 
esteem.  My  followers  liked  to  halt  at  Aghios  Pante- 
lemoni, as  they  were  sure  to  receive  provisions  enough 
to  last  them  for  a  week.  My  last  visit  to  the  Bishop 
was  in  icS~6,  accompanied  by  my  two  American  friends. 
The  presents  were  more  bountiful  on  this  occasion, 
consisting  of  seven  dozens  of  eggs,  two  lambs,  six 
chickens,  four  pots  of  honey,  twenty  loaves  of  new 
bread,  and  sixty  little  cheeses,  with  a  large  bag  oi 
tobacco  leaves.  Escorted  by  two  mounted  priests  we 
started  for  a  little  cluster  of  stone  houses  high  up  in  the 
mountains,  called  Larnaca  of  Lapethus.  The  place  is 
so  named  from  the  large  quantity  of  rock-cut  tombs  by 
which  it  is  surrounded.  The  ancient  city  of  Lapethus 
was  just  on  the  other  side  of  the  range  of  mountains  at 
the  foot  of  the  northern  slope,  and  there  is  no  doubt 


CHAP.  IX.] 


LARXACA    OF    LAPETHUS. 


233 


that  these  rock-cut  tombs  must  have  belonged  to  it. 
On  the  slope  of  a  conical  rock,  which  at  a  distance 
seems  to  be  artificial,  ten  or  fifteen  minutes'  walk  from 
this  "  Larnaca,"  there  is  a  bilingual  inscription  in 
Greek  and  Phoenician  of  the  Ptolemaic  period,  which 
has  been  considerably  damaged  by  a  tourist  who  copied 
it  some  years  ago.  In  its  vicinity  I  discovered  the  ruins 
of  a  small  oblong  temple,  and  the  ground  is  strewn 
with  many  fragments  of  terra-cotta  statuettes  and  stone 
statues,  mostly  life-size  and  of  Cypriote  workmanship. 
I  dug  here  for  five  days  in  1872,  and  laid  bare  several 


Iv   ry  Ba^relief.      Height,  5  inches. 


large  granite  pedestals,  with  Greek  inscriptions  engraved 
on  them  (see  Appendix). 

The  modern  town  of  Lapethus  and  its  ancient  ruins 
are,  as  I  said  before,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  moun- 
tains, but  to  get  there  we  were  obliged  to  wind  our  way 


234  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  IX. 

through  several  gorges  and  ravines,  at  the  cost  of  an 
hour  and  a  half  of  our  time.  Lapethus  was  one  of  the 
ancient  kingdoms  of  Cyprus,  and  appears  to  have  been 
founded  by  one  or  the  other  of  the  two  bands  of  Dorian 
colonists  under  Praxander  and  Cepheus.  The  modern 
village  of  Lapethus  is  watered  by  a  stream  of  that  name 
which  passes  along  the  centre  of  the  town,  and  has  suffi- 
cient volume  of  water  to  work  a  mill  the  whole  year 
round.  The  inhabitants  are  chiefly  Turks,  and  get  their 
living  by  the  cultivation  of  the  mulberry  and  the  silk- 
worm.  The  village  is  rather  scattered,  and  appears  larger 
than  it  is  in  reality  ;  it  is  built  a  little  south  of  the  ruins 
of  the  ancient  city.  Near  the  sea-shore  is  a  Greek 
convent  called  "  Acheropiti,"  and  two  Latin  churches 
in  ruins,  which  had  been  built  in  mediaeval  times.  In 
the  church  of  Acheropiti  I  saw  a  marble  tombstone,  on 
which  there  is  sculptured  a  knight  crusader.  There 
are  also  the  remains  of  a  fine  mosaic  pavement.  The 
convent  yard  is  encumbered  with  shafts  of  columns,  fine 
Corinthian  capitals  in  white  marble,  and  many  other 
sculptured  fragments  dug  up  from  the  ruins  of  Lapethus. 
A  large  pedestal  of  white  marble  has  a  long  Greek 
inscription  of  the  time  of  Tiberius,  whose  name  is 
several  times  mentioned  in  it  (see  Appendix).  A  little 
south  of  this  convent  stands  a  curious  structure,  evi- 
dently very  old.  The  roof  has  now  disappeared.  It 
is  built  of  enormous  blocks  of  stone,  and  has  the  ap- 
pearance of  being  a  mausoleum,  though  the  priest  of 
Acheropiti  says  it  is  known  as  the  palace  of  a  king,  and 
in  proof,  as  he  thought,  showed  me  in  the  interior  some 
holes  where  iron  bars  and  rings  had  existed,  to  which 
captives  were  chained.  It  is  not  improbable  that  at  a 
later  period  it  had  been  used  as  a  prison. 

From  Acheropiti  we  started  for  Cerynia,  which  is  a 
fortified  town,  and  the  second  stronghold  of  the  island. 
Like  Lapethus,  the  original  foundation  of  Cerynia  is 


CHAP.  IX.]  CERYNIA.  235 

traced  to  the  Dorian  colonists  under  Praxander  and 
Cepheus.  It  formed  one  of  the  royal  cities  of  the 
isl-and.  I  passed  near  this  town  several  times  during 
my  northern  excursions,  but  never  had  the  curiosity 
to  enter  it.  The  village  itself,  with  the  exception  of 
the  citadel,  is  a  small  dirty  place,  almost  exclusively 
inhabited  by  Mussulmans,  who,  with  the  garrison,  enjoy 
a  very  bad  reputation,  second  only  to  that  of  their  co- 
religionists at  Neo-Paphos.  In  1875,  some  of  these 
soldiers  entered  the  house  of  a  Greek  peasant,  and 
during  his  absence  used  violence  to  his  wife  and  two 
daughters.  They  were  still  pillaging  the  house  when 
the  owner  arrived,  and  on  his  own  threshold  was 
brutally  murdered.  Some  very  strong  remonstrances 
made  collectively  by  the  Consular  corps  induced  the 
Pasha  to  enquire  into  the  matter,  and  three  culprits 
were  arrested  and  sent  to  Nicosia  in  chains  to  wait 
their  trial.  In  1876,  when  I  visited  the  locality,  the 
wife  of  the  murdered  man  came  to  see  me,  and  I  learned 
from  her  that  the  soldiers  had  not  yet  been  judged, 
and  that  great  efforts  were  being  made  to  have  them 
set  at  liberty.  I  would  not  have  stopped  at  Cerynia 
had  I  been  alone,  but  having  with  me  General  Craw- 
ford, I  thought  it  would  afford  him  pleasure  to  inspect 
those  old  fortifications.  As  he  had  preferred  con- 
tinuing his  route  with  the  baggage  train  to  stopping  at 
Acheropiti,  I  instructed  Mustafa  to  go  with  him  to 
Cerynia,  and  to  select  a  suitable  place  on  the  outskirts 
for  our  encampment,  while,  accompanied  by  Professor 
Hall,  I  made  a  detour  of  about  an  hour,  and  visited 
the  ruins  and  the  convent  above  mentioned. 

On  our  approaching  Cerynia,  we  met  one  of  our 
muleteers  much  excited,  saying  that  a  fight  had  taken 
place  between  my  men  and  some  Turks  of  the  village, 
and  that  the  American  "  milorclo  "  had  sent  for  the 
Turkish  police.  I  hurried  on  to  the  encampment,  and 


236  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  IX. 

found  the  mules  still  packed,  the  tents  not  pitched,  and. 
General  Crawford  waiting  for  my  arrival  with  two 
policemen.  On  enquiring  what  had  happened,  I  soon 
found  that  the  grove  of  trees  which  had  been  selected 
by  the  General  for  our  encampment  belonged  to  a  Turk 
living  in  a  house  adjoining  it,  and  he  did  not  wish  my 
men  to  encamp  there.  Some  high  words  had  passed 
between  my  faithful  Mustafa  and  the  owner  of  the 
ground,  and  Mustafa,  losing  his  temper,  drew  his  sabre, 
and  with  the  flat  of  the  blade  administered  a  rather 
severe  punishment.  The  Turkish  women,  from  their 
latticed  windows,  seeing  their  master  so  treated,  came 
out  in  his  defence,  and  began,  like  true  viragos,  to  fight 
both  with  their  tongues  and  by  throwing  stones  at  my 
men,  to  the  amusement  of  General  Crawford,  who  sat 
on  a  stone  looking  on  like  an  umpire.  The  muleteers, 
as  brave  as  their  ancestors,  soon  ran  awav,  while 
Mustafa  held  the  ground  alone.  I  did  not  dismount, 
but  at  once  proceeded  to  the  residence  of  the  Governor 
of  Cerynia,  and  had  the  owner  of  the  ground  and  his 
several  wives  arrested  and  locked  up  in  the  fort.  Then  I 
obliged  the  Governor,  Cadi,  and  the  other  Turkish  offi- 
cials to  come  to  our  encampment  to  make  an  apology 
to  the  American  "  milordo  "  for  what  had  happened, 
which  they  did  very  meekly,  and  without  any  opposi- 
tion. But  as  I  knew  the  character  of  the  Turks  of 
Cerynia,  I  requested  the  Governor  to  order  a  strong 
force  of  soldiers  and  police  to  guard  our  encamp- 
ment ;  and  thus  we  spent  our  night  at  Cerynia,  in  our 
tents,  surrounded  by  the  soldiers  of  the  Crescent,  and  it 
seemed  to  us  to  be  old  times  again,  when,  encamped  on 
the  Potomac  river,  we  were  on  the  "  qui  vive  "  for  some 
night  attack  of  the  Confederates. 

Early  in  the  morning  I  had  again  a  visit  from  the 
Cadi  of  Cerynia,  preceded  by  a  quantitv  of  fruits,  honey, 
cheese,  etc.,  as  presents  ;  became  to  inquire  how  we  had 


CHAP.  IX.]  SCENE    AT    CERYMIA.  237 

spent  the  night,  and  if  he  or  the  Caimakam  could  do  any- 
thing for  us.  The  Cadi  at  that  place  is  a  young  man,  but 
as  fanatical,  I  was  told,  as  the  rest  of  his  profession  ;  how- 
ever, he  behaved  himself  very  properly  on  the  occasion. 

After  breakfast  we  started  to  visit  the  ancient  site  of 
Cerynia,  which  is  a  little  west  of  the  present  town,  and 
more  inland.  For  a  considerable  distance  along  the 
western  shore  of  Cerynia  there  are  to  be  seen  here  and 
there  large  caverns  excavated  in  the  rock  ;  some,  though 
not  all,  seem  to  have  been  tombs. 

South-east  of  the  town,  about  an  hour's  ride  from  it, 
and  midway  up  the  mountains,  stands  an  imposing 
mediaeval  ruin,  called  "  Lapais."  It  was  an  abbey, 
built  by  King  Hugh  III.,  and  belonged  to  the  Latin 
Church,  but  was  destroyed  by  the  Turks  when  they 
captured  the  fortress  of  Cerynia.  It  is  a  fact  worth 
noticing  that  all  the  churches  belonging  to  the  Latins 
were  destroyed  by  the  Turks  when  they  took  pos- 
session of  the  island.  In  this  I  have  no  doubt  they 
were  gladly  assisted,  or  at  least  encouraged,  by  the 
Greeks,  who  detested  the  Franks  even  more  than  the 
Turks.  This  abbey  occupied  one  of  the  most  pictu- 
resque and  lovely  spots  of  the  whole  island ;  still 
standing  is  a  large  hall  100  feet  long,  32  feet  wide,  and 
about  40  feet  high,  which  was  probably  the  refectory  of 
the  French  abbots  ;  beneath  it  is  another  apartment  of 
like  dimensions  divided  into  two  chambers,  the  vault  of 
which  is  supported  by  massive  columns.  In  the  court- 
yard, piled  the  one  upon  the  other,  are  two  large  marble 
sarcophagi  of  late  Roman  work,  one  of  which  has 
garlands  of  flowers,  nude  figures,  and  large  bulls'  heads 
in  bold  relief.  Both  bear  evidence  of  having  been  used 
for  a  long  time  as  troughs.  Upon  the  lintel  over  the 
door  of  the  great  hall  are  engraved  three  shields  ;  one 
represents  the  Jerusalem  cross,  another  the  royal  arms 
of  the  Lusignans,  and  the  third  a  lion  rampant.  The 


238  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  IX. 

Gothic  chapel  of  the  abbey  has  been  partly  repaired 
with  sun-dried  bricks  and  plaster,  and  is  now  used  by 
the  Greeks  living  in  the  neighbourhood  as  their  place  of 
worship  ;  portions  of  the  courtyard  serve  as  their 
cemetery. 

On  two  high  peaks  in  this  range  of  mountains  stood 
two  feudal  or  royal  castles,  one  called  St.  Hilarion, 
and  the  other  Buffavento,  which  served  as  state  prisons 
and  places  of  refuge  to  some  of  the  Latin  Kings  of 
Cyprus.  They  were  both  dismantled  by  order  of  the 
Venetian  Admiral  Prioli. 

Having  descended  from  the  abbey  into  the  plain 
we  moved  north-eastward,  always  among  fertile  and 
well-timbered  slopes,  to  a  village  called  Acatu  ;  before 
reaching  it,  however,  and  being  then  in  close  proxim- 
ity to  the  sea,  we  came  upon  the  remains  of  an  an- 
cient town  called  Mulas,  where  there  are  a  few  broken 
shafts  of  columns  and  large  stone  sarcophagi  lying  on 
the  surface  and  broken.  These  ruins  are  not  extensive, 
but  they  are  very  difficult  to  explore,  the  underwood 
which  covers  them  being  high  and  very  thick.  Besides, 
at  the  commencement  of  our  operations  we  met  a  kiifi 
or  asp,  which  disappeared  under  a  slab,  but  the  sight 
was  sufficient  to  deter  my  diggers  from  exploring  that 
spot. 

Acatu,  famous  for  its  cheeses,  is  built  on  the  slope  of 
a  conical  peak  at  about  twenty  minutes'  walk  from  the 
sea-shore  ;  the  calcareous  rock  has  been  scooped  by  the 
present  inhabitants  into  small  caves  as  dairy  rooms. 
The  fields  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  village  are 
irrigated  by  several  streamlets,  and  the  slopes  of  the 
surrounding  hills  are  well  studded  with  carob  and  olive 
trees.  The  chief  occupation  of  the  inhabitants  is  that 
of  cheese  making.  They  have  large  flocks  of  sheep  and 
goats,  which  find  plenty  of  food  among  the  mountains  ; 
the  cheeses,  though  unpalatable  to  me,  are  highly 


CHAP.  IX.]  THE    SITE    OF    APHRODISIUM.  239 

esteemed  by  the  natives,  who  consume  an  immense 
quantity  of  them  ;  the  surplus  is  exported  to  Port  Said, 
Alexandria,  and  Smyrna.  The  priest  of  the  village 
assured  me  that  the  number  of  cheeses  made  averages 
two  millions  a-year ;  it  is  true  they  are  very  small,  and 
do  not  weigh  over  half  a  pound  apiece. 

Continuing  my  journey  from  Acatu  eastward,  I  re- 
marked vestiges  of  several  ancient  towns,  all  situated 
near  the  sea-shore  ;  first  at  a  place  called  Macaria ; 
in  this  neighbourhood  there  is  an  old  Greek  church, 
built  with  materials  taken  from  the  surrounding  ruins. 
On  a  previous  visit  to  it  in  1869,  I  was  shown  by  the 
priest  of  Acatu,  who  was  acting  as  my  guide,  a  granite 
slab  with  a  Greek  inscription  encased  upside  down  in 
the  wall.  When  I  came  again  in  1876,  and  wished  to 
take  a  paper  impression  of  it,  \ve  found  it  had  been 
removed  ;  but  when,  or  by  whom,  the  priest  did  not 
know.  The  next  ruins  are  called  Gastria,  after 
which  come  the  remains  of  Pergamos,  near  the  village 
of  Flamoudi.  Twenty  minutes  farther  east  is  a  head- 
land called  Daulos,  where  a  modern  geographer  has 
placed  the  site  of  Aphrodisium,  but  the  paucity  and 
small  extent  of  these  ruins  cannot,  I  should  think,  be 
those  of  the  royal  city  mentioned  by  Strabo.  It  is  more 
probable  that  this  city  was  further  east,  some  twenty- 
five  minutes'  ride  from  Daulos,  where  there  are  visible 
traces  of  a  close  harbour  and  pier,  and  a  few  hundred 
yards  from  the  shore  a  plateau  presenting  the  remains 
of  an  extensive  town,  with  Corinthian  capitals,  and 
fluted  columns  in  marble  and  blue  granite,  lying  half 
buried  in  the  soil. 

This  is  the  only  spot  which  I  can  identify  with 
Aphrodisium,  and  it  agrees  better  with  what  Strabo 
says:  "from  Aphrodisium,  where  the  island  is  narrow, 
the  journey  to  Salamis  is  70  stadia."  There  is  a  little 
village  not  far  back  from  these  ruins,  called  St.  Xikolo. 


CYPRUS. 


[CHAP.  IX. 


From  this  point  eastward  the  cliffs  abut  steeply  upon 
the  shore,  and  on  this  account  the  coast  journey  cannot 
he  performed  on  mules.  We  ascended  the  high  peak 
on  which  once  stood  the  fortress  of  Kantara,  now 
called  by  the  natives  Castello  delle  Cento  Cam  ere. 
It  was  dismantled  by  the  Venetians  when  they  took 
possession  of  the  island.  Some  of  the  ruins  are  still 
roofed  and  in  a  good  state  of  preservation.  What  a 

labour  it  must  have  been  to  convey 
to  this  height  all  the  stones  neces- 
sary for  the  construction  of  such  a 
huge  building  ! 

On  a  lower  hill  west  of  Kantara 
stood  a  small  detached  fort,  some- 
thing like  an  outpost,  to  guard  the 
approaches.  On  this  spot  is  a  little 
chapel  dedicated  to  the  Panaghia, 
still  in  good  condition.  In  the  last 
century  some  Greek  monks  were 
living  here,  but  when  the  walls  of 
their  cells  began  to  fall  they  left 
the  place  and  the  district.  A  hermit 
called  Simeon  now  inhabits  the 
ruins,  and  has  done  so,  he  told  me, 
for  the  last  forty-five  years.  He  is 
over  eighty  years  of  age,  and  is 
absolutely  alone,  not  having  even  a 
dog,  sheep,  or  goat  as  his  companion  !  When  I  visited 
the  place  in  1869  he  told  me  his  story  in  a  few  words, 
and  it  is  a  sad  one.  He  was  born  at  a  village  near  Con- 
stantinople. Before  he  was  twenty-five  years  old  his 
father  died  and  left  him  a  thriving  business.  At  thirty  he 
married  a  young  girl  of  his  village,  and  everything  seemed 
to  go  well  with  him,  when  one  day  to  his  misfortune  the 
youthful  and  handsome  face  of  his  wife  was  remarked 
by  a  powerful  Turk  living  in  the  neighbourhood.  Dis- 


Stone  Statue.     3  feet  10  inches. 


CHAP.  IX.] 


SIMEON    THE    HERMIT. 


241 


honourable  proposals  were  made  to  him,  which  he 
indignantly  rejected.  Soon  after  he  was  arrested  by 
order  of  this  Turk  on  some  false  accusation  ;  his  wife 
disappeared  and  became  an  inmate  of  this  Turk's 
harem  ;  the  hermit's  house  was  burnt,  and  all  his 
property  destroyed.  After  being  kept  three  years  in 
a  prison  without  trial  or  judgment,  he  was  at  last 


released  on  the  condition  that  he  should  leave  Con- 
stantinople for  ever.  He  was  put  on  board  a  vessel 
bound  for  the  Archipelago,  and  landed  at  Cyprus  a 
penniless  and  wretched  man  for  life.  Having  lost  all 
his  manhood,  he  roamed  like  a  wild  beast  among  the 
mountains,  living  on  herbs,  olives,  and  wild  fruits  until 
he  found  near  Kantara  an  old  rock-cut  tomb  which 
became  his  habitation  for  a  while.  Some  time  after- 
wards he  took  possession  of  this  chapel,  wherein  he 
sleeps  and  hoards  his  provisions,  consisting  of  a  little 
wheat  and  olives  which  he  raises  in  the  vicinity  of  his 
abode. 


242  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.   IX. 

Once  a  year  a  few  Greek  devotees  of  the  Panaghia 
ascend  the  mountain  to  visit  the  chapel,  and  thus  for 
several  hours  he  is  brought  into  contact  with  some  of 
his  fellow  beings,  who  bring  him  tobacco,  matches, 
and  old  clothes  as  presents.  One  of  these  clays  the 
poor  octogenarian  will  breathe  his  last,  untended  by 
an\"  human  being,  like  a  wild  beast,  and  the  pilgrims 
will  find  the  corpse  of  poor  Simeon.  Such  has  been  life 
for  him  !  I  visited  the  chapel  and  saw  about  a  dozen 
china  dishes  which  had  been  encased  in  the  walls  when 
the  plaster  was  fresh,  and  are  consequently  several 
centuries  old  ;  no  doubt  a  collector  of  such  articles 
would  be  delighted  to  possess  them.  Before  descending 
into  the  plain  I  asked  the  hermit  what  I  could  give  him. 
Would  he  like  to  have  money,  coffee,  sugar,  or  tobacco  ? 
He  preferred  matches,  which  pleased  him  more  than  the 
other  things  I  gave  him. 

After  encamping  for  the  night  on  the  outskirts  of  the 
village  of  Tricomo,  where  I  saw  no  ruins,  I  was  in  the 
saddle  early  next  morning,  and  travelling  west  the  whole 
day,  reached  Cythrea  just  as  the  sun  was  disappearing 
behind  the  mountains.  Cythrea  is  a  thriving  little 
village  surrounded  by  gardens  full  of  fruit  trees,  and 
traversed  along  its  length  by  the  river  Pedeus.  which 
in  its  course  keeps  several  mills  busy  at  work  grinding 
wheat  for  half  the  island. 

The  ruins  of  ancient  Cythrea  are  half  an  hour's  walk 
east  of  the  village  ;  they  occupy  the  ridge  and  slope  of 
a  Mat  hill,  and  judging  from  some  foundations  of 
habitations  which  I  laid  bare,  the  city  must  have  ex- 
tended also  into  the  plain  confined  between  two  small 
streams  which  a  little  further  on  had  united  and  emptied 
themselves  into  the  Pedeus  ;  now  they  are  quite  drv. 
The  place  is  strewn  with  broken  pottery,  chietlv  of  a 
bright  red  colour,  like  that  found  at  Soli,  many  small 
fragments  of  sculpture  in  stone,  and  also  some  pieces 


CHAP.  IX.] 


CYTHREA. 


243 


of  iridescent  glass.  Here  I  discovered  the  site  of 
two  oblong  temples,  one  of  which  I  partially  explored. 
The  foundations  of  both  consist  of  very  large  blocks  of 
limestone.  In  the  peribolos  of  the  one  which  I  ex- 
plored were  found  a  round  altar  of  blue  granite,  two 


heads  in  marble,  and  several  fragments  of  stone  and 
terra-cotta  with  Cypriote  characters  engraved  upon 
them  (see  Appendix).  On  the  site  of  the  temple  itself 
I  found  some  fluted  columns  and  several  Greek  inscrip- 
tions incised  on  pedestals  of  marble  and  granite,  which 


CYPRUS.  [CHAP.   IX- 

from  their  dimensions  must  have  belonged  to  life-size 
statues  (see  Appendix) . 

All  the  fields  round  the  village  are  irrigated  and  in 
a  good  state  of  cultivation,  for  which  reason  I  could  not 
excavate  on  a  large  scale  without  first  purchasing  the 
ground.  I  have,  however,  very  little  doubt  that  if 
extensive  diggings  were  to  be  made  they  would  yield 
good  results.  The  inscribed  marbles  were  too  heavy  to 
carry  away,  and  after  having  copied  the  inscriptions, 
I  permitted  the  diggers  to  take  them  to  their  village, 
Xouni,  a  few  minutes'  ride  south  of  this  spot,  and  to 
keep  them  until  further  orders  from  me. 

From  Cythrea  I  went  to  Nicosia,  the  modern  capital 
of  the  island.  The  first  rays  of  the  sun  were  striking  the 
high  minarets  of  Sta.  Sophia  when  we  reached  the 
city-gate  leading  to  Famagosta.  The  drawbridge  was 
not  yet  lowered,  and  the  few  minutes,  which  we  had  to 
wait,  I  spent  in  strolling  about,  examining  the  moat  and 
walls  of  the  city,  where  for  many  centuries  was  the 
residence  of  the  Lusignan  kings,  and  on  the  ramparts 
of  which  some  of  the  noblest  blood  of  Italy  was  shed  in 
defending  it  from  the  attacks  of  the  present  possessors. 
Nicosia  does  not  appear  to  have  been  a  town  of  much 
importance  in  antiquity,  when  its  name  was  Leucosia. 

On  the  roadside  were  several  lepers  loudly  asking  for 
alms.  The  condition  of  these  poor  outcasts  deserves 
to  be  mentioned  here.  They  live  about  a  mile  from 
Nicosia,  and  number  about  200,  of  whom  forty  are 
Turks.  They  have  no  houses,  but  live  in  ancient  exca- 
vated tombs  and  in  a  few  sheds  built  by  themselves. 
They  are  supposed  to  receive  each  a  loaf  of  bread  a-day 
from  the  Turkish  Government,  but  were  it  not  for  the 
Archbishop  of  Cyprus,  who  sends  them  food,  I  am 
assured  they  would  have  all  died  long  ago,  as  the  local 
Government  does  not  do  anything  for  them.  At  every 
fair  or  festival  in  the  island  thev  are  to  be  seen  en- 


CHAP.  IX.]  LEPERS    AT    NICOSIA.  245 

camped  by  themselves  near  the  roadside,  entreating  the 
charity  of  the  passer-by.  The  average  age  of  these 
wretched  beings  is  from  forty  to  sixty  ;  though  I  have 
remarked  among  them  young  boys  and  pretty  girls  also. 
When  a  person  becomes  suspected  of  this  malady,  he 
is  placed  under  constant  watch,  and  is  daily  examined 
by  his  neighbours.  When  the  faintest  symptoms  of 
leprosy  appear,  all  relationship  and  friendship  are  at  an 
end,  all  future  intercourse  with  him  ceases,  and  he  is 
driven  from  his  native  place,  provided  with  a  quilt  and 
some  food,  to  find  his  way  to  the  lepers'  village,  seldom, 
if  ever,  with  a  word  of  pity,  consolation,  or  hope. 

As  far  as  I  have  been  able  to  ascertain,  leprosy  in 
Cyprus  only  exists  among  the  lowest  class,  and  I 
noticed  also  that  the  number  of  lepers  increased  in 
those  years  when,  on  account  of  the  drought,  there  was 
greater  scarcity  of  food  than  usual. 

Two  cases  were  brought  to  my  knowledge  of  persons 
having  been  driven  away  from  their  villages  on  mis- 
taken symptoms  of  leprosy.  After  several  months'  resi- 
dence among  the  lepers  they  naturally  wanted  to  return, 
but  so  much  opposition  was  raised  by  the  villagers 
among  whom  their  families  lived  that  they  were  obliged 
to  leave  the  island  in  search  of  a  new  home. 

I  have  seen  one  instance  in  which  there  were  three 
lepers  of  the  same  family.  A  boy  nineteen  years  old, 
his  mother  about  forty-five,  and  a  little  girl.  The  most 
disfigured  of  the  three  was  the  boy  (it  seems  that  this 
disease  developes  itself  more  rapidly  in  young  people)  ; 
his  nose  had  entirely  disappeared,  as  had  also  portions 
of  the  chin,  leaving  bare  the  lower  teeth  ;  both  eyes 
were  closed,  never  to  see  the  light  again,  and  only  very 
small  portions  of  his  fingers  remained  ;  yet  his  mother, 
who  had  been  among  the  lepers  some  eight  years  longer, 
was  not  half  so  ill-treated  by  the  disease,  though  she 
had  her  hands  wrapped  in  filthy  rags,  a  sign  that  they 


246  CYPRUS,  [CHAI-.   IX. 

were  too  hideous  to  be  shown  ;  the  little  girl,  fair  hut 
pale  looking,  had  only  joined  her  mother  a  few  weeks 
before  ;  she  showed  me  her  tiny  finders,  which  were  as 
yet  only  a  little  bent  and  stiff.  I  know  of  facts  that  have 
happened  among  these  lepers  which  would  make  even 
the  most  hard-hearted  shudder.  No  distinction  of 
creed  exists  among  them,  no  religious  consolation  is 
given  them,  and  no  funeral  obsequies  are  performed 
over  them. 

Pococke  states  that  Nicosia  is  built  on  the  site  of  an 
ancient  city  called  Tremitus  :  this  latter,  however,  was 
farther  south,  and  nearer  to  Golgoi,  where  a  village 
called  Tremitussa  now  stands.  At  this  place  are  the 
unmistakable  remains  of  an  ancient  town,  and  there 
exists  an  extensive  necropolis,  from  which  I  extracted 
glassware,  sepulchral  bas-reliefs  and  pottery  of  the 
Roman  period. 

At  the  close  of  the  fourth  century,  when  Cyprus  be- 
came a  province  of  the  Eastern  Empire,  and  Christianity 
began  to  spread  itself  rapidly  everywhere,  Cyprus  had 
thirteen  bishops,  among  whom  is  mentioned  one  of 
Tremitus  and  another  of  Nicosia,  showing  conclusively 
that  both  these  cities  were  in  existence  at  the  same 
time. 

Nicosia  nevertheless  seems  to  have  been  built  upon 
the  ruins  of  some  very  ancient  town,  as  in  its  immediate 
neighbourhood,  at  a  place  called  Aghios  Paraskeva, 
exist  many  tombs,  in  which  I  found  little  clay  figures  of 
the  Assyrian  Mylitta,  cylinders  in  serpentine,  scarabs, 
vases  in  the  shape  of  animals,  and  also  a  large  crater 
with  two  bigoj  and  other  figures  painted  upon  it, 
similar  to  vases  found  at  Amathus  and  Maroni,  the 
ancient  Marium.  No  objects  were  found  in  these 
tombs  of  a  period  later  than  500  B.C.,  nor  any  indica- 
tions that  at  this  place  there  might  have  been  a  Greek 
settlement.  Nicosia  is  enclosed  within  high  massive 


CHAP.  IX.] 


NICOSIA. 


247 


walls  built  under  the  Venetians,  which,  like  those  at 
Famagosta,  are  kept  by  the  Turks  in  tolerably  good 
repair.  After  sundown  no  person  is  allowed  either  to 


enter  or  to  leave  the  city  without  special  permission 
from  the  Governor-General.  When  such  a  case 
happens  the  soldiers  are  put  under  arms,  then  the 
drawbridge  is  lowered  with  as  much  pre- 
caution and  ceremony  as  if  we  were  still 
in  mediaeval  times  ! 

With  the  exception  of  the  church  of  Sta. 
Sophia,  now  converted  into  a  mosque, 
half-a-dozen  palaces  and  a  few  churches 
in  a  dilapidated  condition,  there  is  nothing 
in  Nicosia  which  would  attract  the  atten- 
tion of  an  archaeologist.  I  confess  that 
whenever  I  had  to  visit  that  city  I  always 
felt  a  disagreeable  sensation  as  of  personal  restraint, 
not  unlike  that  experienced,  I  suppose,  by  a  man  when 
he  is  shut  up  in  prison.  It  may  be  said,  with  some  truth, 
that  Xicosia  is  a  very  large  prison,  since  the  Ottoman 
Government  sends  here  from  every  part  of  Turkey  its 
worst  criminals  and  most  obnoxious  political  offenders. 


248  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  IX. 

The  population  of  Nicosia  is  reckoned  at  16,000, 
two-thirds  of  which  are  Christians.  It  possesses  a 
large  and  well-stocked  bazaar  and  several  silk  manu- 
factories, but  the  streets  are  narrow,  badly  paved,  and 
extremely  dirty.  The  seraglio,  where  the  Pasha  re- 
sides, is  a  huge  quadrangular  building  two  stories  high, 
in  sad  want  of  repair,  with  a  large  court-yard  enclosed 
by  a  wall  twenty-five  feet  high  ;  this  was  the  palace  of 
the  Venetian  Governors  of  Cyprus,  and  probably  served 
in  former  times  as  the  royal  residence  of  the  Lusignan 
kings.  The  ground  floor  is  used  as  a  prison,  and  by 
dense  packing  is  made  to  contain  as  many  as  a  thou- 
sand convicts,  guarded  by  a  strong  force  of  police. 
In  the  centre  of  this  square  is  a  forlorn-looking  tree, 
from  the  branches  of  which  many  wretches  have  been 
hanged  by  order  of  the  Governor-General  of  Cyprus. 
At  the  present  day  the  Governor  cannot  put  a  man  to 
death  without  special  orders  from  Constantinople  ; 
when  this  order  arrives  he  calls  a  policeman,  whose 
duty  it  is  to  pass  a  rope  around  the  victim's  neck,  and 
without  more  ado  to  drag  him  to  the  fatal  tree,  where 
he  is  left  hanging  for  several  hours  after  his  actual 
death, 


CHAPTER    X. 

A  MATH  VS. 

Amathus  founded  by  Phoenicians. — Worship  of  Tyrian  Hercules. — 
Human  sacrifices  to  Ivronos,  capture  and  destruction  by  Richard 
king  of  England. — Ruins,  city  walls,  rock-cut  tombs.  —  Mode  of 
digging. — Stone  built  tombs  at  depth  of  forty-five  feet. — Fatal 
accident  to  Dr.  Siegismund.  —  Discovery  of  large  sculptured  sarco- 
phagus, its  similarity  to  Lycian  Frieze  in  British  Museum. — 
Uronze  shield  with  repousse  work. — Silver  bo\vl  with  engraved 
design. — Search  for  copper  mines. —  Fasula.  —  Discovery  of  temple 
statues  and  inscriptions. — False  alarm  in  camp  at  night. — Site  of 
Tamassus.  —  Return  to  Amathus.  —  Removal  of  sarcophagus. — Visit 
of  the  Governor  of  Limassol.  —  Ruins  of  Aghios  Tychona. — 
Departure  for  Curium. 

Ox  the  south  coast,  at  the  distance  of  twelve  hours' 
ride  from  Larnaca,  and  two  from  Limassol,  stood  the 
city  of  Amathus,  which  like  Paphos  and  Citium,  is 
known  to  have  been  originally  a  Phoenician  settlement, 
and  to  have  retained  even  more  distinct  traces  of  this 
origin  than  did  the  other  two  cities,  such,  for  example, 
as  its  worship  of  the  Tyrian  Hercules,  under  the  name  of 
Malika  or  Melicertes,  as  the  Greeks  called  him.  A 
representation  of  this  Melicertes  will  be  found  on  the 
sarcophagus  found  by  me  at  Amathus,  and  engraved 
Pis.  xiv.,  xv.  A  colossal  statue  representing  the  same 
subject  was  found  during  my  absence  from  Cyprus  at 
this  place,  and  is  now  in  the  Ottoman  Museum  of  St. 
Irene,  at  Constantinople.  It  was  said  also  that  in  early 


CYPRUS. 


[CHAP.  X. 


times  the  Amathusians  had  been  in  the  habit  of  offering 
human  sacrifices  to  Kronos,  which  circumstance  is 
obviously  to  be  traced  to  an  origin  among  the  Phoeni- 
cians, who  notoriously  offered  human  sacrifices.  Again, 
the  word  Amathus  fA/za$ovg)  appears  to  be  identical 
with  Amathe,  the  name  of  a  town  in  Syria,  said  to  have 
been  founded  by  Amath,  a  son  of  Canaan,  and  it  has 
been  suggested  by  Engel  that  some  of  the  original 
settlers  at  Amathus  in  Cyprus  may 
have  come  from  Amathe  in  Syria. 
There  was  also  a  fortified  place  on 
the  Jordan  called  Amathus,  and 
while  thus  there  appears  in  the  name 
itself  to  be  good  reason  for  tracing  it 
to  a  Phoenician  origin,  we  have  also 
the  legend  which  says  that  it  was 
Amathus,  a  son  of  Hercules — no 
doubt  the  Tynan  Hercules — who 
founded  the  town.  Another  legend 
derives  it  from  Amathusa,  the  mother 
of  Cinyras,  which  again  would  con- 
cede its  Phoenician  origin.  The 
purely  Greek  derivation,  however,  is 
from  d/xa^dei,?,  "  sandy,"  or  from 
Amathus,  a  son  of  a  Cypriote  King- 
Aeries. 

The  very  great  antiquity  of  the  city  may  be  gathered 
from  the  fact  that  Tacitus  calls  it  vctiistissiuia,  and  that 
its  inhabitants  believed  their  first  ancestors  to  have  been 
Autochthones.  From  the  way  in  which  it  is  associated 
with  the  priestly  familv  of  the  Cinyradae,  who  were  ac- 
credited with  having  introduced  the  worship  of  Aphro- 
dite from  Syria  into  Cyprus,  it  would  seem  as  if  they 
had  first  settled  at  Amathus,  and  afterwards  transferred 
the  centre  of  their  power  to  Paphos.  It  was  from 
Amathus,  not  Paphos,  that  Agamemnon  drove  Cinyras 


HcrcuK 


CHAP.  X.]  SKETCH    OF    AMATHUS  251 

on  account  of  his  breach  of  faith,  and  from  this  it  may 
be  inferred  that  Amathus  was  then  the  seat  of  govern- 
ment of  Cinyras.  Agamemnon,  it  is  said,  colonised 
Amathus  with  a  body  of  his  followers  returning  from 
Troy.  In  time  Amathus  became  eclipsed  by  Paphos, 
in  which  the  priestly  Cinyradae  ruled  over  temporal  as 
well  as  spiritual  matters.  But  a  branch  of  this 
family  remained  at  Amathus,  and  though  they  did 
not  there  possess  temporal  power,  they  seem  to  have 
stood  next  to  the  king  in  point  of  importance,  while 
in  religious  matters  they  seem  not  to  have  been,  like 
the  rest  of  the  island,  subject  to  the  priesthood  of 
Paphos. 

In  historical  times  the  Phoenician  or  oriental  spirit 
of  Amathus  was  several  times  strikingly  displayed,  first 
when  Onesilos,  heading  the  strong  faction  of  those  who 
desired  to  resist  the  oppression  of  the  Persians,  was 
declared  King  of  Salamis  in  place  of  his  brother,  and 
called  upon  the  other  towns  of  the  island  to  join 
him.  Amathus  refused,  and  had  to  sustain  a  siege 
from  him  and  his  followers,  B.C.  500.  \Yhen  Darius 
was  informed  of  this  he  sent  an  army  to  overpower 
Onesilos  ;  who  meantime  obtained  large  reinforcements 
from  the  lonians  of  Asia  Minor  and  their  Athenian 
allies.  In  the  battle  which  ensued  in  the  plain  ol 
Salamis  the  Persians  were  victorious,  and  Onesilos 
himself  fell. 

Again,  when  Evagoras,  the  King  of  Salamis,  was 
maintaining  with  Athenian  assistance  his  apparently 
hopeless  resistance  to  the  Persians,  we  find  Amathus 
joined  with  Citium  and  Soli,  sending  to  Artaxerxes  for 
help  against  him  (B.C.  391).  That  a  contingent  from 
Amathus  took  part  with  the  Persians  in  the  fearful 
conflicts  which  ensued  with  Evagoras  appears  to  be 
beyond  doubt. 

This   spirit,   however,   seems   to   have   been   changed. 


252  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  X. 

B.C.  332,  in  which  year  we  find  Androcles,  the  King  of 
Amathus,  present  in  the  Cypriote  fleet  which  supported 
Alexander  in  his  siege  of  Tyre.  Under  the  Ptolemies, 
and  in  the  later  history  of  Cyprus,  Amathus  appears  to 
have  lost  the  ancient  importance  which  it  enjoyed  when 
ruled  by  its  own  kings,  and  when  its  natural  allies  the 
Persians  were  all  powerful. 

On  the  hill  on  which  it  stood,  nothing  is  now  visible 
but  a  vast  amount  of  stones,  plaster,  and  broken  pottery. 
Even  the  hill  itself  is  fast  losing  its  form,  while  the 
rock  of  which  it  is  composed  is  being  cut  away  to  be 
shipped  to  Port  Sa'icl,  bringing  to  the  merchants  of 
Limassol  a  profitable  return.  From  the  great  amount 
of  debris  which  covers  the  surrounding  fields,  for  the 
most  part  untilled,  Amathus,  it  would  seem,  though 
small  in  area,  must  have  been  a  thickly  populated  city. 
Originally  the  upper  part  of  the  hill  had  been  encircled 
by  a  wall,  remains  of  which  are  now  scarcely  perceptible  ; 
portions,  however,  of  another  wall  of  a  later  period  may 
especially  be  observed  on  the  southern  side  looking 
towards  the  sea,  and  following  the  sinuous  windings  of 
the  hill.  I  found  imbedded  in  this  wall  pieces  of  terra- 
cotta jars  and  fragments  of  granite  columns,  which  had 
been  used  as  building  materials.  On  the  southern  side, 
portions  of  it  ran  as  far  as  the  shore.  It  is  probable 
that  the  square-built  ruin  at  the  southern  end  of  the 
hill  formed  a  gateway,  since,  between  the  city  and  the 
sea-shore,  there  was,  and  still  is,  the  high  road  to 
Paphos.  On  the  crest  of  this  hill  I  dug  at  several 
places  until  I  came  to  the  solid  rock,  but  failed  to 
discover  any  sculptured  remains  of  importance.  I 
found,  however,  sufficient  evidence  to  convince  me  that 
most  of  the  building  materials  of  what  I  call  the  Phoeni- 
cian city  had  been  used  for  the  construction  of  the  later 
Greek  buildings. 

Amathus,   when    subsequently  inhabited    by  a   Greek 


CHAP.  X.]  LATER    HISTORY    OF    AMATHUS.  253 

population,  spread  itself  in  a  more  south-easterly 
direction,  and  nearer  to  the  sea-shore,  protected  by  the 
second  wall  which  I  spoke  of,  and  though  at  the  time  of 
its  destruction  by  King  Richard  of  England  it  was  still 
the  seat  of  the  last  Duke  of  Cyprus,  Isaac  Comnenos, 
it  had  already  lost  most  of  its  splendour  and  importance. 
The  following  inscription,  which  is  cut  in  the  rock  on 
the  east  side  of  the  hill,  mentions  an  arch  as  having 
been  erected  here  at  the  private  expense  of  a  Lucius 
Vitellius  Callinicus,  but  there  are  no  traces  of  it  to  be 
found  at  the  present  day. 

AOYKIOZOYITEA 

AIOZKAAAINIKOZ 

THNANABAZINTAY 

THNZYNTHA^IAI 

EKTOYIAIOYKATEZKEY 

AZEN         (*) 

It  was  on  the  top  of  this  hill  that  M.  de  Vogue 
discovered  the  large  stone  vase  which  is  now  deposited 
in  the  Museum  of  the  Louvre.  Near  the  same  spot 
there  are  fragments  of  what  seems  to  have  been  a 
similar  vase.  In  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  site 
where  these  vases  were  found,  I  dug  up  on  a  former 
excursion  three  large  shafts  of  columns,  of  a  hard 
bluish  stone,  resembling  granite.  I  left  them  half 
buried  in  the  soil,  with  the  intention  of  examining 
them  on  a  future  occasion  ;  but  when  I  returned,  the 
columns  had  disappeared,  having  been  broken  up  for 
building  purposes.  There  are  thousands  of  stones  on 
the  top  and  sides  of  this  hill,  which  would  equally  well 
suit  the  purpose  of  these  builders,  but  it  seems  that 


*  After  my  arrival  in  Knglund  I  found  that  this  inscription  is 
published  in  the  ''Corpus  Inscript.  (hTccarum,"  Xo.  2644.  r.nd  in  Kngel. 
i.  ]>.  115. 


254  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  X. 

they  are  possessed  by  some  infatuation  or  evil  mania 
for  destroying  whatever  bears  the  traces  of  man's 
handicraft.  It  is  the  more  to  be  regretted,  since  among 
the  ruins  very  few  architectural  or  sculptured  remains 
are  now  found. 

On  the  side  of  a  rocky  hill,  west  of  Amathus,  and 
separated  only  by  the  bed  of  a  winter  torrent,  I  saw  hun- 
dreds of  tombs  cut  in  the  rock  ;  they  had  been  mostly 
opened  and  ransacked  long  ago.  Though  tombs  are  to 
be  met  with  in  different  localities  at  Amathus,  it  is  in 
the  district  along  the  sea-shore  that  they  are  found  in 
greatest  abundance.  Here  they  are  oven-shaped,  like 
those  of  Idalium,  and  are  excavated  in  a  sandy  soil  at  a 
depth  varying  from  three  to  hve  feet.  Most  of  them 
were  found  to  contain  only  one  body.  The  objects 
discovered  within  were  glass,  always  broken  but  beauti- 
fully iridescent  (this  being  generally  the  case  when 
the  tombs  are  near  the  sea)  ;  terra-cotta  lamps  of  the 
first  and  second  century  of  our  era ;  large  amphorae 
similar  in  shape  to  those  found  at  Pompeii  ;  no  gold 
jewellery  of  any  value,  and  now  and  then,  a  mortuary 
stele  bearing  a  Greek  name  followed  by  the  usual 
formula  of  ^prjarr]  x°^P6>  anc^  m  snaPe  similar  to  those 
discovered  at  Larnaca.  Of  another  kind  are  the  tombs 
cut  in  the  rock,  in  the  adjacent  fields  east  and  west  of 
Amathus.  They  are  oblong,  and  cut  horizontally  in 
irregular  tiers  ;  none  are  over  seven  feet  in  length,  and 
the  majority  of  them  scarcely  six.  They  all  seem  to 
have  been  opened,  probably  centuries  ago,  and  as  I 
said  before,  are  now  fast  disappearing. 

A  third  group  of  tombs  is  situated  in  a  field  north- 
east of  Amathus,  which  is  encircled  by  low  hills  form- 
ing a  natural  amphitheatre.  They  contain  sarcophagi 
made  either  of  white  marble,  probably  imported  from 
Greece,  or  of  calcareous  stone  from  the  quarries  of 
Cyprus. 


CHAP.  X.] 


TOMBS    AT    AMATHUS. 


255 


I  examined  nearly  a  hundred  of  these  sepulchres,  and 
found  them  all  built  of  finely  cut  stones,  presenting  a 
much  more  handsome  appearance  than  any  other  class 
of  tombs  which  I  have  seen  in  the  island.  They  lie  at 
a  depth  of  40  to  55  feet  below  the  surface  of  the  soil, 
and  it  is  very  difficult  to  get  at  them,  owing  to  the 


circumstance  that  the  entrances  face  in  different  direc- 
tions ;  yet  in  spite  of  this  difficulty  there  was  not  one 
which  had  not  been  previously  opened  and  rifled.  Some 
have  only  one  chamber,  others  two,  and  others  again 
four.  In  building  these  chambers,  huge  stones,  some 
measuring  twenty  feet  in  length,  nine  feet  in  width, 


256 


CYPRUS. 


[CHAP.  X. 


and  three  in  thickness,  have  been  employed,  hut  the 
average  size  is — length,  fourteen  feet  ;  width,  seven 
and  a  half  feet ;  thickness,  two  feet.  So  admirable 
are  the  joints  of  the  masonry  that  in  some  cases  it 
is  difficult  to  rind  traces  of  them.  The  tombs  are  of 
two  different  shapes:  one  with  a  flat  roof  and  square 
walls  ;  and  the  other  having  a  roof  in  the  form  of  what 
we  call  in  the  American  army,  a  "field-officer's  wall- 
tent." 

These  tombs,  the  construction  of  which  must  have 
been  very  laborious  and  expensive,  may  have  be- 
longed to  the  royal  and  aristocratic  families  of  the 
city.  Those  of  but  one  room  have  always  one.  often 
two,  and  sometimes  three  sarcophagi  inside.  When 
one  only,  it  is  invariably  found  placed  in  the  centre  of 


the  room;  when  two,  they  are  placed  to  the  right  and  left 
of  the  entrance,  with  their  heads  towards  its  wall.  When 
there  are  three  sarcophagi,  two  are  found  placed  as 
before  stated,  to  the  right  and  left,  and  the  third  near 
the  wall  opposite  the  door.  The  position  of  the  sarco- 
phagi never  varies,  whether  the  tombs  have  one,  two, 
or  four  chambers.  In  one  composed  of  two  rooms,  I 
counted  as  many  as  ten  sarcophagi.  The  entrance 
room  had  a  flat  roof,  and  the  inner  one  a  pointed  roof. 


PLATE    XIV. 


PLATE    XV. 


ENDS    OF    .STONE    SARCOPHAGUS. 


CHAP.  X.] 


SARCOPHAGI    AT    AMATHUS. 


259 


Four  sarcophagi  were  deposited  in  the  first,  and  six  in 
the  second.  Their  relative  positions  were  the  same  as 
that  just  described.  The  five  extra  sarcophagi  were 
superposed  upon  the  other  five.  All  were  made  of  the 
calcareous  stone  of  Cyprus,  without  any  bas-reliefs. 
No  tombs  were  discovered  with  more  than  four  rooms  ; 
and  of  these  with  four  chambers  I  found  only  two. 
One  of  them  contained  the  finely  sculptured  sarcophagus 
here  engraved,  plates  xiv.,  xv. 


This  tomb  consisted  of  a  square  room  used  as  an 
antechamber,  and  three  lateral  rooms,  to  the  right  and 
left,  and  opposite  the  entrance  door.  The  sculptured 
sarcophagus  was  in  the  centre  of  the  inner  room,  facing 
the  entrance,  and  lay  there  in  a  heap  broken  to  pieces 
by  the  vandals  who  centuries  ago  had  opened  this 
tomb,  and  being  perhaps  disappointed  in  not  finding 
the  treasure  they  sought,  wreaked  their  vengeance  on 
this  rare  gem  of  art. 

There    is    a    very    striking    similarity    between    the 


260 


CYPRUS. 


[CHAP.  X. 


sculpture  of  this  sarcophagus  and  an  archaic  frieze 
found  at  Xanthus  in  Lycia  by  Sir  Charles  Fellows,  and 
now  in  the  British  Museum,  of  which  an  engraving  is 
here  given.  It  is  obvious  from  the  regularly  recurring 
square  holes  for  the  protruding  dentils,  that  the  Lycian 
frieze  has  formed  the  external  decoration  of  one  of 
those  tombs  common  in  Lycia,  and  this  is  confirmed  by 
the  two  doorways  with  Sphinxes,  which  belong  to  the 


same  building  as  the  frieze,  and  are  placed  at  either 
end  of  it.  Many  doorways  similarly  formed  were 
found  by  me  at  Amathus. 

On    the     Lycian 

frieze       is      repre- 
sented    a     proces- 
sion   advancing   to 
the    right,    at    t  he- 
head  of  which  is  a 
biga.      This  is  fol- 
lowed  by  a   horse- 
man,     dismounted 
and     standing     at 
Next   comes   a   biga  driven 
and    conveying    an    old    man 
This    biira    is    followed 


Jj,M,nvay  <>{  .1  Tomb. 

the  off  side  of  his  horse 
by  a  youthful  charioteer, 
bearded,  draped  and  seated. 


PLATE    XVI. 


CHAP.  X.]      LYCIAN    FRIEZE    IN    BRITISH    MUSEUM.  263 

by  a  mounted  horseman,  behind  whom  comes  a  pro- 
cession on  foot,  consisting  of  first  a  group  of  three 
youths  wearing  chiton  and  himation,  and  carrying  a 
long  spear  over  the  left  shoulder.  These  are  followed 
by  two  youths  similarly  draped,  and  carrying  shield  and 
spear.  There  were  apparently  three  figures  in  this 
group  also,  but  only  part  of  the  third  remains,  there 
being  here  a  break  in  the  frieze.  How  much  of  the 
original  may  be  wanting  cannot  be  ascertained.  After 
this  break  there  is  a  draped  youth,  standing  by  the  side 
of  a  couch  or  bier,  of  which  only  the  end  remains  ;  only 
one  foot  of  the  figure  which  had  been  laid  on  it  is  visible  ; 
at  the  extreme  left  stands  a  youth,  apparently  a  slave, 
wearing  a  chiton  girt  up,  and  holding  in  his  hand  a 
cloth  of  some  kind.  At  his  feet  stands  what  appears 
to  be  a  caldron,  or  it  may  be  a  stool.  The  two  slabs 
which  seem  to  have  decorated  the  ends  of  the  tomb,  and 
have  each  a  doorway  cut  through  them,  are  triangular 
at  the  top.  At  each  side  of  each  doorway  is  a  seated 
Sphinx.  On  the  triangular  top  of  one  of  them,  which 
is  more  complete  than  the  other,  are  figured  two  lions 
confronted.  These  Sphinxes  confronted  may  be  com- 
pared with  those  on  the  stelae  found  at  Golgoiv  and 
engraved  p.  115.  The  figures  in  the  frieze  are  tall  and 
thin  in  their  proportions,  and  of  a  pure  Greek  type  ; 
their  dress,  an  under  chiton  of  ribbed  stuff,  and  over  it 
a  himation  wrapped  closely  around  the  figure,  except 
on  the  right  shoulder,  is  also  purely  Greek  and  of  a 
slightly  archaic  time,  similar  to  the  draperies  on  the 
Harpy  tomb  ;  the  bodies  of  the  horses  are  long,  and  the 
legs  slim  and  very  carefully  modelled  ;  their  manes  are 
hogged,  but  on  the  top  of  the  head  is  a  knot  in  the 
shape  of  a  crescent,  precisely  similar  to  that  seen  in 
horses  in  the  Assyrian  friezes.  Except  in  this  point 
the  Lycian  frieze  is  purely  Greek,  and  of  a  very  refined 
workmanship.  On  the  Amathus  sarcophagus  it  will 


264  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  X. 

be  seen  that  the  horses  have  the  same  top-knot,  but 
much  larger,  more  in  the  shape  of  an  open  fan  ;  and 
that  the  group  of  a  figure  holding  a  parasol  over  the 
head  of  a  seated  figure  is  an  essentially  Oriental 
motive.  The  same  motive  however  occurs  in  the 
Lycian  sculptures  from  the  Nereid  monument ;  and 
the  oriental  personage  there  represented  is  supposed 
to  be  the  Persian  Satrap  of  Lycia.  Possibly  this  is 
also  a  Persian  Satrap  who  is  figured  on  the  sarco- 
phagus from  Amathus.  The  other  figures,  their  dress, 
armour,  and  horses,  are  as  purely  Greek  as  on  the 
Lycian  sculptures.  Both  processions  would  seem  to 
have  been  part  of  funeral  obsequies  ;  when  however  we 
come  to  the  sculptures  on  the  two  ends  of  the  sarco- 
phagus, we  meet  with  what  it  is  difficult,  if  not 
impossible,  to  find  an  analogy  for  either  in  Greek  or 
Assyrian  art.  On  one  end  there  is  a  nude  figure  of 
Venus,  as  represented  in  many  clay  specimens  now 
in  the  New  York  Museum,  standing  to  the  front  and 
repeated  four  times,  side  by  side.  At  the  other  end  are 
four  similarly  repeated  figures,  which  have  been  sup- 
posed to  represent  Melicertes  the  Phoenician  Hercules. 
Or,  as  Mr.  King  suggests,  they  may  be  the  Phoenician 
Pataiki  whom  Herodotus  (III.  37)  describes  as  being 
figured  in  the  form  of  Pygmies.  I  found  the  same 
figure  in  terra-cotta  attached  as  an  upright  handle  to  a 
lamp  on  which  is  a  Cypriote  inscription.  As  regards 
the  four  figures  of  Venus,  perhaps  the  nearest  approach 
to  them  as  an  artistic  composition  is  the  familiar  group- 
ing of  the  three  Graces.  It  is  true  that  the  Graces,  as 
we  know  them,  are  three  distinct  persons  ;  that  is,  they 
are  three  sisters  ;  but  the  number  of  them  varies,  as  in 
Athens,  where  they  were  only  two,  and  the  fact  of 
sisterhood  itself  points  to  a  unity  in  the  original  idea. 
Whatever  the  explanation  may  turn  out  to  be,  the  quad- 
ruple representation  of  Venus  and  Melicertes  on  the 


PLATE    XVII. 


CHAP.  X.]        SCULPTURE    OF    LYCIA    AND    CYPRUS. 


267 


sarcophagus  is  at  present  extremely  curious.  The  lid, 
which  is  also  in  many  fragments,  has  two  Sphinxes  at 
each  end  confronting  each  other,  similar  to  those  on 
the  Lycian  frieze. 

In  connection  with  the  close  resemblance  of  this 
sarcophagus  with  the  Lycian  frieze  above  described,  it 
should  be  remembered  that  there  is  no  great  distance 
between  the  shores  of  Lycia  and  those  of  Cyprus,  and 


that  the  conditions  of  art  in  the  one  country  might 
reasonably  be  expected  to  resemble  those  of  the  other 
in  some  points,  especially  as  both  Lycia  and  Cyprus 
had  a  mixed  population,  of  which  a  considerable  por- 
tion was  Greek.  In  the  still  undeciphered  language  of 
Lycia  there  are  several  letters  identical  with  those  of 
the  alphabet  of  the  recently  discovered  Cypriote,  while 
others  differ  very  little. 

The  border  of  ornament  sculptured  at  each  end  of  the 
two  sides  of  the  sarcophagus  has  a  strongly  Assyrian 
character,  which  is  also  the  case  with  regard  to  the 
border  of  lotus  flowers  along  the  top.  With  reference 


268 


CYPRUS. 


[CHAP.  X. 


to  the  Assyrian  influence  on  Lycian  art  I  may  quote 
what  is  said  by  Layard  (Nineveh,  ii.  p.  291)  :  "  The 
Persians  introduced  into  Asia  Minor  the  arts  and  reli- 
gion which  they  received  from  the  Assyrians.  Thus 
the  Harpy  tomb  and  the  monument  usually  attributed 
to  Harpagus  at  Xanthus,  and  other  still  earlier  remains, 
show  all  the  peculiarities  of  the  sculptures  of  Persepolis, 
and  at  the  same  time  that  gradual  progress  in  the  mode 
of  treatment — the  introduction  of  action  and  sentiment 
and  a  knowledge  of  anatomy,  which  marks  the  distinc- 
tion between  Asiatic  and  Greek  art.  .  .  .  There  is  one 

monument,  however,  from  Xan- 
thus, which  particularly  deserves 
notice  from  its  connection  with 
Persian  and  Assyrian  art  and 
religious  emblems.  I  allude  to 
the  fragment  of  a  tomb  in  the 
British  Museum,  on  which  is 
represented  a  figure  struggling 
with  and  piercing  a  rampant 
lion.  The  sculpture  is  so  pecu- 
liarly Assyrian  in  its  treatment 
—identical  representations  being 
found  on  the  monuments  and 
-that  there  can  be  no  doubt  as 
to  its  origin."  There  are  also  two  other  monuments, 
discovered  at  Golgoi,  which  present  a  very  striking- 
resemblance  to  Lycian  art.  They  are  two  oblong- 
steps  or  stools  ;  the  one  having  a  bas-relief  of  the 
Lycian  Chimera,  and  on  the  other  a  group  of  a 
lion  devouring  a  bull,  which  ma}-  be  compared  with 
the  group  of  a  lion  devouring  a  stag  on  one  of  the 
archaic  friezes  from  Xanthus.  These  stools  are  figured 
p.  159,  and  had  before  been  engraved  alone  with  the 
great  sarcophagus  in  the  Atti  della  Reale  Accademia  di 
Torino,  vol.  xi.  pi.  4-5. 


cylinders   of   Assyria- 


CHAP.  X.]  SARCOPHAGUS    AT    AMATHUS.  269 

In  the  chambers  adjacent  to  that  in  which  the  great 
sarcophagus  was  found  were  two  plain  sarcophagi,  one 
in  white  marble  and  the  other  in  calcareous  stone,  both 
of  which  had  been  greatly  damaged.  The  discovery  of 
this  tomb  by  previous  explorers  seems  to  have  been 
due  to  mere  chance,  as  an  opening  was  found  pierced 
through  the  roof,  by  which  the  descent  had  been  made. 
Once  inside,  the  door  would  be  apparent,  and  would 
be  used  as  an  exit.  At  what  period  this  had  occurred, 
it  is  difficult  to  determine,  though  some  rude  figures 
traced  upon  the  walls,  seemingly  with  lamp  smoke,  of  a 
brownish  colour,  and  presenting  in  one  case  a  likeness 
of  a  knight,  would  indicate  the  presence  of  soldiers  of 
the  army  of  the  Crusaders.  Whoever  they  were,  it  was 
evident  that  they  had  endeavoured  to  expel  the  foul 
air  of  the  chambers  by  lighting  fires,  the  ashes  of 
which,  along  with  pieces  of  carbonized  wood,  were 
found  on  the  pavement.  The  fact  that  these  pieces  of 
unburnt  wood  became  pulverised  under  the  slightest 
pressure  of  my  fingers,  would  also  indicate  that  this 
previous  visitation  of  the  tomb  had  taken  place  a  con- 
siderable time  ago. 

The  roofs  of  the  four  chambers  are  flat,  and  each  is 
composed  of  three  large  stones.  The  entrance  chamber 
is  nine  feet  seven  inches  in  height,  thirteen  feet  four 
inches  in  length,  and  twelve  feet  three  inches  wide. 
This  tomb  was  discovered  at  a  depth  of  thirty-nine 
feet  and  a  half  beneath  the  surface  of  the  soil.  The 
three  chambers  are  each  twelve  feet  nine  inches  long, 
seven  feet  ten  inches  high,  and  twelve  feet  nine  inches 
wide.  The  pavement  is  formed  of  oblong  stones  from 
three  to  four  inches  thick,  and  varying  from  one  foot 
and  a  half  in  length,  which  are  as  carefully  joined 
together  as  those  of  the  best  modern  pavement  in 
Cyprus. 

The    sarcophagi   were    all    placed   on   the   pavement, 


270  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  X. 

except  in  one  tomb,  in  which  I  discovered  two  sar- 
cophagi, one  of  them  being  of  fine  white  marble,  and 
having  sculptured  upon  it  a  female  head  of  colossal 
proportions,  in  early  or  archaic  Greek  style,  and  the 
other  was  of  calcareous  stone  and  plain.  Both  were 
raised  ten  inches  above  the  ground,  and  supported  on 
six  flat  stones,  three  at  each  end.  In  the  wall  near 
the  head  of  the  stone  sarcophagus,  there  was  a  niche 
live  inches  in  length,  the  same  in  width,  and  seven 
inches  deep,  the  interior  of  which  had  been  blackened 
by  the  smoke  of  an  earthenware  lamp,  which  it  still 
contained. 

The  usual  height  of  the  doorway  of  these  tombs  is 
four  feet  ten  inches,  and  the  width  three  feet  nine 
inches  ;  the  doorway  which  forms  the  entrance  of  the 
tomb  is  closed  by  a  massive  stone  from  the  outside. 
In  one  instance  I  found  the  closing  stone  unusually 
large,  measuring  four  feet  ten  inches  in  width,  by  live 
feet  ten  inches  in  height.  My  men  worked  nine  days 
at  this  tomb,  having  dug  to  the  depth  of  forty-nine  feet, 
in  three  different  places,  before  the  exact  position  of  the 
entrance  could  be  ascertained.  ^Yhen  a  corner  of  the 
huge  stone  came  in  view,  and  its  position  assured  them 
that  it  had  never  been  removed,  nothing  could  exceed 
their  delight.  The  great  size  of  the  stone  and  its 
apparently  intact  condition,  raised  their  hopes  very 
high,  and  aided  by  the  promise  of  a  liberal  reward  they 
laboured  for  some  time  with  great  enthusiasm,  believing 
that  the  wealth  of  old  Cinyras  was  contained  behind  it. 
Alas  !  for  a  diggers'  dream!  Thev  came  suddenly  upon 
a  hole  in  that  massive  stone,  which  perfectly  accounted 
for  its  having  remained  in  situ.  The  hole  was  large 
enough  for  the  passage  of  a  man's  body,  and  had  evi- 
dently been  used  previously  as  a  mode  oi  ingress  by 
those  who  had  found  the  removal  oi  the  colossal  stone 
impossible. 


CHAP.  X.]  EXCAVATION    OF    TOMBS.  271 

This  discovery  was  sufficient  to  change  all  the 
brilliant  hopes  of  my  diggers  to  sudden  gloom,  a 
characteristic  of  the  variable  Cypriote  temperament ; 
nevertheless,  eight  of  them  laboured  with  pickaxes  and 
levers  for  its  removal  ;  but  all  effort  proved  vain,  and 
they  were  obliged  to  enter  in  the  same  way  as  their 
predecessors. 

Theocharis,  one  of  my  chief  diggers,  speedily  divested 
himself  of  his  superfluous  clothing,  and,  as  was  his 
wont,  entered  first,  previously  making  the  sign  of  the 
cross.  I  asked  him  what  was  the  meaning  of  this 
devout  act,  and  he  replied  that  it  was  his  custom  to  do 
so  upon  entering  a  deep  tomb,  in  order  to  keep  away 
the  evil  eye,  and  that  no  harm  should  befall  him.  The 
short  prayer  which  he  added  is,  however,  not  more  than 
occasion  requires,  as  not  unfrequently  the  earth  has 
fallen  in  upon  the  men,  to  their  very  great  danger, 
and  the  foreman  himself  remained  once  buried  for  a 
couple  of  hours  before  he  could  be  relieved.  Dr.  Justus 
Siegismund,  a  young  German  philologist,  of  great  pro- 
mise, who  had  helped  considerably  in  deciphering 
the  Cypriote  dialect  while  visiting  these  tombs  in  1876, 
during  my  temporary  absence  from  Amathus,  was  in 
the  act  of  coming  out  of  one  of  them,  when  he  fell 
back  into  it,  and  \vas  instantaneously  killed. 

The  confusion  that  reigned  inside  the  tomb  I  am  now 
speaking  of  is  beyond  description.  I  looked  in  and  saw 
Theocharis,  who  had  lost  his  right  arm  when  a  boy,  with 
his  only  hand  covering  his  head  (a  sign  of  wonderment 
and  great  disappointment  with  him),  standing  upon  a  pile 
of  decayed  human  bones,  and  fragments  of  sarcophagi 
all  lying  pell-mell.  I  confess  that  after  so  many  days 
of  fruitless  labour,  passed  under  a  scorching  sun  in  a 
waste  where  one  is  deprived  of  every  ordinary  comfort, 
my  own  disappointment  almost  equalled  that  of  my 
diggers.  This  tomb  was  composed  of  two  rooms,  and 


272 


CYPRUS. 


[CHAP.  X. 


contained  fifteen  sarcophagi,  all  broken  to  pieces.  For- 
tunately, none  of  them  had  been  sculptured.  They 
had  been  originally  piled  up  by  threes,  but  those  who 


opened  the  tomb  before  had  thrown  clown  and  smashed 
the  upper  ones,  in  order  to  get  at  those  beneath,  and 
contented  themselves  with  cutting  large  holes  through 


•-CX. 


those  on  the  ground,  without  removing  them  from  their 
places.  In  this  tomb  they  seemed  to  have  reaped  a 
good  harvest,  for  the  large  pieces  of  bones  and  skulls 
were  separated  and  heaped  together  apart  from  the  pul- 


PLATE    XVIII. 


CHAP.  X.] 


EXCAVATION    OF    TOMBS. 


275 


verised    remains,    which    appear   to   have   been   passed 
through  a  sieve. 

After  the  employment  of  fifteen  men  for  two  days  in  the 
removal  of  the  fragments  of  sarcophagi,  human  remains, 
and  rubbish,  I  found  piled  up  in  a  corner  of  the  inner 
room  to  the  right  of  the  doorway  the  fragments  of  sixty 
terra-cotta  vases,  having  the  same 
characteristics  as  those  found  at 
Paphos,  Idalium,  Golgoi,  and  else- 
where in  the  island  ;  besides  sixteen 
alabaster  vases,  mostly  injured  by 
damp  and  time  ;  several  fragments  of 
a  few  green  glazed 


opaque    g 
terra-cotta 
amulets,      of 
Egyptian 

manufacture; 
t  w  o  t  e  r  r  a  - 
cotta  figures 
of  Astarte  ; 
some  thirty 
objects  in 
copper,  such 
as  mirrors, 
discs,  pa- 
terse,  bowls, 
and  vases, 
very  much 
oxidised,  ad- 
hering firmly  to  each  other,  and  which  seem  to  have 
been  purposely  thrown  inside  a  large  copper  caldron 
and  then  smashed,  as  the  latter  had  entirely  lost  its 
original  shape.  This  mass  weighed  over  seventy 
pounds.  Among  the  fragments  of  vases  were  found 
the  remains  of  a  wooden  box,  handsomely  inlaid  with 
bronze.  This  box,  without  doubt,  was  once  hidden  in 


Terra-cotta  Oen 


276 


CYPRUS. 


[CHAP.  X. 


an  aperture  in  the  roof  of  the  first  chamber,  which  we 
found  had  been  discovered  on  the  removal  of  a  stone 
slab  lying  on  the  floor,  and  which,  upon  replacing  it, 
fitted  the  mouth  of  the  opening.  The  measurement  of 
this  cavity  was  two  feet  three  inches  long,  and  four- 
teen inches  high  by  ten  in  width.  The  nicety  with 
which  this  stone  fitted  its  place  in  the  roof  would  seem 
to  have  defied  detection  ;  but  the  marauders  who  had 
previously  ransacked  the  tomb  seem  to  have  been 
professionals  in  their  work,  as  it  had  evidently  been 


Egyptian  Porcelain  Divinities. 

removed  with  care,  and  by  the  employment  of  small 
tools. 

In  examining  the  contents  of  the  copper  caldron,  I 
discovered  an  iron  dagger,  the  fragments  of  a  shield 
engraved  with  a  row  of  animals,  and  the  remains  of  a 
silver  bowl,  which  from  its  oxidisation  must  have 
been  mistaken  for  other  metal  by  the  marauders,  and 
thrown  into  the  caldron  as  if  of  no  value  to  them. 

Both  these  important  fragments  have  been  engraved 
in  the  French  Revue  Archeologique  (^75),  and  ably 
described  by  my  learned  friend  Mr.  Georges  Ceccaldi, 
though  I  do  not  agree  with  him  in  some  of  his  ex- 
planations and  conclusions  about  the  representations 


PLATE   XIX. 


PLATE    XX. 


BOSS    OK    SHIELD,    I'(iL'Xl)    AT    AMATHUS. 


CHAP.  X.]  ANTIQUITIES    FROM    TOMBS.  281 

on  the  silver  bowl,  between  which  and  the  representa- 
tions on  the  great  sarcophagus  it  is  easy  to  perceive 
that  there  is  a  great  resemblance.  The  mystic  or 
sacred  tree  is  almost  identical  with  that  on  the  borders 
of  the  sarcophagus  ;  the  dress  of  some  of  the  warriors, 
their  head-dress,  the  accoutrements  of  the  horses,  the 
shape  of  the  chariots,  and  the  style  of  execution,  show 
that  both  belong  to  the  same  epoch.  I  am  of  opinion 
that  these,  as  well  as  the  greatest  part  of  the  monu- 
ments I  discovered  in  Cyprus,  were  made  in  the  island, 
as  this  mixture  of  Greek,  Egyptian,  and  Assyrian,  which 
I  call  "  Cypriote  art,"  is  not  met  with  elsewhere  in  any 
monument  that  I  am  aware  of.  As  to  the  sarcophagus 
no  doubt  can  be  entertained  on  this  point,  since  it  is 
cut  out  of  a  rough  and  hard  sandstone,  which  is 
peculiar  to  Amathus,  and  to  another  locality  on  the 
eastern  coast  of  Cyprus. 

The  quantity  of  objects  in  copper  and  bronze  found 
in  these  tombs,  though  mostly  destroyed  by  oxidisation, 
is  much  greater  than  that  found  in  the  extensive 
necropolis  of  Idalium.  I  observed  that  in  the  locali- 
ties where  copper  mines  are  known  to  have  existed, 
as  at  Amathus  and  Curium,  the  ancient  tombs  contain 
a  much  larger  per-centage  of  works  in  that  metal  than 
elsewhere.  The  same  thing  may  be  said  of  the  few 
graves  I  opened  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Tamassus. 
The  fact  that  almost  all  these  bronze  objects  were  plain 
and  roughly  made,  is  for  me  an  additional  evidence 
that  they  were  made  in  Cyprus.  From  this  group  of 
tombs,  among  the  objects  left  behind  or  over-looked 
by  those  who  had  entered  them  before,  I  extracted 
curious  little  rings,  some  in  bronze,  and  others  in 
silver,  the  use  of  which  it  is  not  easy  to  determine  ; 
a  few  Egyptian  and  Babylonian  cylinders  of  soft  glazed 
clay,  also  several  rings  of  solid  gold,  but  roughly  made 
and  of  no  artistic  value  ;  a  large  quantity  of  broken  jars 


282 


CYPRUS. 


[CHAP.  X. 


of  earthenware  and  bronze  bowls  and  paterae,  all  plain, 
and  so  oxidised  as  to  fall  into  a  fine  green  powder  at 
the  first  touch  ;  also  some  copper  hatchets  and  iron 
arrow-heads,  but  no  inscriptions,  glass,  lamns,  or  coins 
were  found. 


In  one  of  these  tombs  I  observed  what  I  have  never 
seen  in  any  other,  namely,  a  skeleton  plant  almost  black 
in  colour,  which  embroidered  the  wall  and  roof  like  a 
network  of  lace  with  its  delicate  tracery.  It  would  seem 
that  Nature,  commiserating  the  spoliation  which  the 
tomb  had  suffered,  came  with  sympathetic  hand  to  lend 
her  own  more  appropriate  adornment. 

West  of  these  tombs,  but  facing  the  east,  I  dis- 
covered nine  oven-shaped  caverns,  containing  such  a 
quantity  of  bones  that  I  was  extremely  curious  to 
examine  one  thoroughly.  Accordingly  the  earth  was 
removed,  and  I  counted  no  less  than  sixty-four  human 
skulls.  There  was  also  a  promiscuous  mass  of  bones, 
among  which  I  remarked  jaws  and  teeth  of  camels, 
horses,  and  sheep,  or  goats.  I  should  here  state,  that 


CHAP.  X.]  CAVES    WITH    BONES. 

in  the  most  ancient  tombs,  whether  at  Dali,  Aghios 
Photios,  Paphos,  or  Amathus,  I  have  often  found  teeth 
of  animals,  especially  of  camels  ;  and  even  in  the  richer 
tombs  containing  the  sarcophagi,  bones  and  teeth  of 
quadrupeds  have  been  exhumed.  These  nine  caverns 
would  have  been  infinitely  too  small  to  contain  the 
amount  of  bodies  indicated,  and  I  believe  therefore 
that  they  were  ossuaries  for  bones,  removed  from  the 
rock-cut  tombs  to  make  way  for  other  bodies.  The 
very  fact  that  no  vases  or  other  objects  were  found 
inside,  corroborates  this  view. 

In  the  tombs  along  the  sea-shore,  of  which  there  are 
many  yet  to  be  opened,  no  animal  remains  have  been 
found  with  the  dead  bodies,  except  sometimes  pigeon 
or  chicken  bones,  and  egg-shells  in  clay  dishes,  which 
were  probably  the  remains  of  the  funeral  repast. 

Twenty  minutes'  walk  east  of  these  tombs  there  lies 
on  the  western  declivity  of  a  low  hill,  a  small  village 
called  Aghios  Tychona,  composed  of  about  twenty- 
five  houses.  The  inhabitants  are  chiefly  Christians  of 
the  Greek  creed,  with  a  sprinkling  of  Mussulmans. 
The  latter  bear  a  very  bad  reputation,  and  belong  to 
the  lowest  class,  murder  and  cattle  stealing  being 
their  chief  occupation.  The  village  is  principally 
built  with  stones  from  Amathus,  among  which  are 
fragments  of  some  few  capitals,  columns,  and  other 
architectural  remains.  It  contains  a  church  dedicated 
to  St.  Nicholas,  to  which  is  attached  a  decrepit  priest 
nearly  a  hundred  years  old.  In  the  spacious  court- 
yard of  the  church,  which  does  duty  also  as  a  burying- 
ground,  I  found  inserted  in  the  enclosure  wall,  a  bas- 
relief  in  calcareous  stone  three  feet  two  inches  high 
by  twenty-two  inches  in  width,  representing  a  youth 
holding  a  dove  in  his  left  hand.  It  is  said  to  have 
been  brought  many  years  ago  from  the  top  of  the  hill 
of  Amathus.  It  is  a  rude  sculpture,  apparently  very 


CVl'RL'S.  [CHAP.  X. 

old,  and  in  a  poor  state  of  preservation.  I  observed 
also  several  Greek  inscriptions  and  sepulchral  stelas 
which  had  been  found  in  tombs  near  the  sea-shore,  and 
do  not  date  farther  back  than  the  first  century  of  the 
Christian  era.  The  chief  support  of  the  inhabitants  of 
this  village  is  derived  from  stone  cutting,  and  the 
breeding  of  cattle  ;  to  this  has  come  the  ancient  king- 
dom of  Amathus,  which  was  one  of  the  wealthiest  in 
Cyprus  ! 

I  made  considerable  explorations  on  the  surrounding 
hills  and  mountains  in  search  of  the  ancient  copper- 
mines  of  Amathus,  which  were  considered  the  richest 
and  most  extensive  of  Cyprus.  I  expected  to  find  some 
scorias  or  other  indications  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the 
ancient  city,  which  would  enable  me  to  recognise  them  ; 
but  although  I  made  several  excursions  for  that  purpose, 
and  crossed  the  range  of  mountains  in  the  plain  of 
Mesaoria,  where  the  royal  city  of  Tamassus  is  said  to 
have  existed,  yet  I  failed  to  find  any  traces  of  them. 
In  the  vicinity  of  Aghios  Heraclidion  and  Petra  there 
are  manv  ancient  tombs,  some  hewn  in  the  rock,  and 
others  merely  excavated  in  the  earth,  as  at  Dali.  These 
probably  belonged  to  the  inhabitants  of  Tamassus.  An 
intelligent  peasant  of  Petra  told  me  that  he  and  his 
father  while  cutting  wood  had  found  a  large  mound  of 
copper  (probably  of  scoriae)  on  the  north  slope  of  these 
mountains,  but  when  I  asked  him  to  bring  me  to  the 
spot,  he  declared  that  he  had  forgotten  its  exact  locality. 
It  is  more  than  probable  that  the  Amathus  and  Ta- 
massus copper  mines  were  in.  this  range  of  mountains, 
as  among  the  fragments  of  loose  rock  Iving  on  the 
surface  I  picked  up  some  which  contained  a  certain 
quantity  of  copper.  A  mineralogist  would  perhaps  be 
able  to  detect  other  indications  which  would  be  un- 
noticed by  my  inexperienced  eye. 

During  my  long    encampment   at   Amathus   I   visited 


CHAP.  X.]       THE    NEIGHBOURHOOD    OF    AMATHUS.  285 


also    another    range   of   hills    west   of  these    ruins,    on 

the    summit    of  one    of  which,    very 

difficult   of   ascent,  situated  between 

the    two    small    villages    of    Aghios 

Dimitri  and  Fasuli,  I  found  the  ruins 

of  an  elliptical    structure  measuring 

twenty-seven    feet    by    sixteen.      Its 

area  was  strewn  with  pieces  of  broken 

statues,  upon  two  of  which  an  eagle 

was  carved.     I  discovered  also  on  the 

bases  of  two  life-size  statues  to  which 

the  feet  still  adhered,  Greek  characters 

roughly  but  deeply  cut  in  the  cal- 
careous stone  (see  Appendix).  I  should 

have  liked  to  explore  this  spot  tho- 
roughly, as  these  ruins  are  not  im- 
probably those  of  a  temple  dedicated 

to  Jupiter,  but  I  had  brought  neither 

a  tent  nor  provisions  with   me,    and 

so  was  obliged  to  content  myself  with 
having  the  stones  on  the  surface 
turned  over  in  search  of  inscriptions. 
While  thus  occupied  with  half  a 
dozen  men,  we  found  ourselves  sud- 
denly enveloped  in  a  dense  smoke. 
The  slopes  of  the  hill  were  in  a  blaze,  the  thick  brush- 
wood which  covered  them  being  all  on  fire,  the 
strong  wind  which  always  prevails  on  these  hills 
causing  it  to  spread  so  rapidly  that  we  were  in  danger 
of  being  roasted  alive.  We  ran  down  the  hill  in  so 
great  a  hurry  that  we  forgot  the  saddle-bags.  That 
the  fire  was  not  accidental  was  very  evident,  but  the 
motive  of  the  incendiary  was  unaccountable.  During 
my  travels  in  the  island  I  had  always  met  everywhere 
with  the  greatest  kindness  and  respect. 

The  animals  which  had  been  left  grazing  had  dashed 


286  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  X. 

off,  frightened  by  the  flames,  and  it  took  some  time  to 
catch  them.  While  the  men  were  in  pursuit  of  them 
I  sent  for  the  notables  of  both  villages,  who  represented 
the  local  authorities.  My  object  was  to  ascertain 
whether  the  conduct  of  any  of  my  men  had  excited  the 
animosity  of  some  peasant. 

On  their  arrival  they  declared  that  no  injury  had 
been  done  to  anyone  by  my  diggers,  but  that  a  certain 
Turk  of  Aghios  Tychona,  called  Kara  Ahmet,  who 
was  a  professional  cattle-stealer  and  had  been  involved 
in  the  murder  of  an  English  subject  at  Limassol  some 
years  before,  and  had  just  been  released  from  prison, 
had  been  seen  prowling  round  the  hill,  and  was  un- 
doubtedly the  author  of  the  mischief.  It  appeared  that 
he  had  applied  in  vain  to  my  chief  digger  for  employ- 
ment, and  imagining  that  the  refusal  came  from  me, 
determined  thus  to  revenge  himself. 

By  the  application  of  a  few  matches  he  had  fired  the 
hill  on  all  sides  and  then  ran  away  with  my  saddle- 
bags, which  were  thus  preserved,  and  in  which  he 
expected  to  find  money  and  other  valuables,  but  they 
contained  only  a  few  oranges  and  some  bread.  He  had 
however  been  seen  and  recognised  by  the  red-haired 
priest  of  Aghios  Dimitri  and  by  several  other  peasants. 
I  was  determined  to  have  him  caught  and  severely 
punished,  though  as  he  was  a  desperado,  some  caution 
was  necessary.  I  therefore  sent  my  cavass  Mustafa  to 
the  Caimakam  of  Limassol,  with  a  request  for  two 
policemen,  and  with  an  explanation  of  the  reason  for 
which  I  desired  them. 

Then  I  despatched  my  foreman  on  the  swiftest 
mule  I  had  with  me  to  Aghios  Tychona,  where  this 
Ahmet  lived,  to  watch  his  arrival  and  movements. 
The  latter,  as  I  expected,  knowing  all  the  short  cuts 
through  the  mountains,  arrived  about  the  same  time, 
and  as  he  thought  safely  and  unseen,  and  the  saddle- 
bags with  him. 


CHAP.  XJ  CAPTURE    OF    A    ROBBER.  287 

Mustafa,  with  the  policemen,  entered  his  house  shortly 
after,  and  he  was  pinioned  and  brought  before  me  at 
Amathus,  whither  I  had  returned,  for  examination  ;  but 
refused  to  make  any  reply  to  my  questions.  I  sent  him 
direct  to  the  Governor-General  at  Nicosia,  who  kept 
him  in  prison  for  several  months.  Two  of  the  prisoner's 
brothers  living  at  Aghios  Tychona  gave  out  hints  of 
their  intention  to  be  avenged  on  my  cavass  Mustafa, 
who  did  not  feel  very  comfortable  in  consequence  for 
some  time,  though  I  assured  him  there  was  no  danger 
of  their  making  any  such  attempt.  Nevertheless,  in 
view  of  the  bad  reputation  which  these  men  bore  in  the 
village,  a  few  precautionary  measures  were  adopted 
in  our  little  encampment,  which  was  very  near  that 
village. 

One  night  as  I  was  just  falling  asleep,  I  thought  I 
perceived  some  movement  of  my  tent,  and  as  the 
mosquito-net  was  secured  to  the  transverse  pole,  I 
soon  became  aware  that  I  was  not  dreaming.  Some- 
one was  evidently  endeavouring  to  effect  an  entrance 
from  beneath.  I  have  always  preferred,  when  travelling 
in  Cyprus,  tent  life  to  the  poor  comforts  which  the 
smaller  villages  offer,  though  pitching  my  tents  always 
sufficiently  near  them  to  make  provisions  and  provender 
easily  attainable.  On  these  occasions  I  invariably  slept 
with  a  revolver  under  my  pillow,  though,  as  I  have  said, 
never,  excepting  on  this  night,  finding  a  necessity  to  use 
it.  In  this  instance,  however,  I  stealthily  reached  my 
revolver,  and  cocking  it,  waited  for  further  developments. 
I  could  clearly  distinguish  the  noise  made  in  the  effort 
to  dislodge  one  of  the  tent  pins,  and  shortly  after  a 
shock-head  of  black  hair  intruded  itself  beneath  my 
tent,  while  I  clearly  saw  a  dark  form  crouched  upon 
the  ground  ;  I  did  not  wait  longer,  but  pulling  the 
trigger  sent  a  ball  whizzing  through  its  brains  ;  what 
with  the  howl  that  followed,  and  the  detonation  of  the 


288 


CYPRUS. 


[CHAP.  X. 


arm,  ail  my  men  flocked  round  me  in  a  few  seconds, 
confused  and  frightened  ;  but  their  alarm  was  soon 
changed  to  merriment  when  the  robber  was  found  to 
be  a  big  black  dog,  which,  attracted  by  the  savoury 
smell  of  a  roasted  partridge  left  from  supper,  had 
come  uninvited  to  appease  its  hunger. 

The  mountains  which  environ  Amathus  present  a 
desolate  aspect,  and  a  death-like  stillness  prevails  at 
all  hours  of  the  day.  The  vegetation  is  very  scant,  the 
locust  tree  alone  lending  now  and  then  with  its  thick 
and  lustrous  foliage  a  friendly  shade  to  the  traveller. 
Herds  of  sheep  and  goats  may  be  seen  in  the  distance, 
grazing  upon  dry  grass  and  the  stalk  of  last  year's  crop 
of  barley. 

Before  leaving  for  the  west  to  explore  Curium,  the 
removal  of  the  white  marble  sarcophagus  with  the  female 
head  sculptured  in  high  relief  upon  its  lid,  the  discovery 


of  which  I  have  before  alluded  to,  occupied  much  of 
mv  time  and  thought.  With  the  means  at  my  disposal 
it  was  a  difficult  undertaking.  We  had  no  pulleys  or 
other  machinery  for  raising  weights,  and  were  obliged 
to  rely  solely  upon  ropes  and  force  of  hand.  Nine 
hours  of  the  most  arduous  labour  were  consumed  in 
bringing  it  to  the  surface.  It  was  then  placed  upon  a 
low  cart  made  expressly  for  it,  and  thence  dragged 
slowly  over  rough  fields  strewn  with  stones  by  eight 
oxen  and  fifty  men,  both  men  and  beasts  working  with 
equal  energy, 


CHAP.  X.]  THE    GOVERNOR    OF    LIMASSOL.  289 

We  left  the  field  at  noon,  and  although  one  can  walk 
from  there  to  the  shore  in  twenty  minutes,  we  did  not 
cover  the  distance  till  six  o'clock  in  the  evening1,  having 

O  '  O 

had  to  repair  the  cart,  which  groaned  under  the  weight, 
more  than  a  score  of  times.  Notwithstanding  this  I 
had  the  pleasure  of  seeing  it  before  nightfall  safely 
conveyed  on  board  the  "  Mahona,"  which  wras  lying  in 
waiting  for  it,  and  was  soon  under  way  for  Larnaca. 

The  Governor  of  Limassol  had  been  informed  early 
in  the  day,  with  the  usual  oriental  exaggeration,  that 
the  American  Consul  was  removing  some  extraordinary 
object  from  the  ruins  of  Amathus  ;  consequently,  pend- 
ing "  our  march  to  the  sea,"  two  zaptiehs  or  mounted 
Turkish  policemen  arrived,  thei.r  persons  fortified  by 
the  customary  array  of  pistols  and  cutlasses,  which  the 
rust  of  ages  has  rendered  perfectly  harmless.  They 
appeared  to  have  received  orders  only  to  watch  the 
proceedings,  and  accordingly  never  dismounted,  but 
kept  at  a  respectful  distance.  Once,  however,  while 
the  cart  was  undergoing  repairs,  the  curiosity  of  one  of 
them  became  too  strong  for  control,  and  he  approached 
somewhat  nearer,  but  upon  my  making  a  sign  to  my 
Consular  Guard  to  order  him  back,  he  politely  bowed, 
and  immediately  retired. 

When  the  sarcophagus  had  nearly  reached  the  sea- 
shore and  the  policemen  saw  a  boat  flying  the  American 
colours  in  readiness  to  receive  it,  they  galloped  away 
at  full  speed  towards  Limassol,  and  two  hours  later, 
just  as  the  sarcophagus  was  about  to  be  placed  on 
board,  an  officer  of  the  police  of  Limassol  came  dash- 
ing up  with  the  information  that  the  Governor  was  on 
the  road  to  visit  the  "  wonder,"  and  requested  me  not 
to  ship  it  until  he  had  an  opportunity  of  seeing  it  ;  to 
which  request,  as  may  be  imagined,  I  paid  very  little 
heed,  and  the  sarcophagus  went  safely  on  board  with- 
out unnecessary  delay  :  the  white  sails  filled,  and  the 


2QO  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  X. 

'  Mahona  "  glided  with  a  steady  motion  from  the  shore 
just  as  the  Governor  of  Limassol  and  his  numerous 
suite  approached  the  spot. 

At  the  period  of  which  I  speak  the  Governor  of 
Limassol  was  a  fanatic  Turk  of  the  old  school,  and  an 
intense  hater  of  all  Christians.  Shrewd  as  all  semi- 
educated  Turks  naturally  are,  when  he  saw  that  he 
had  arrived  just  a  moment  too  late  to  interfere  with  my 
shipment  he  changed  tactics,  and  dismounting  at  a 
certain  distance  from  where  I  was  standing  (an  oriental 
mark  of  respect),  advanced  towards  me  with  all  seeming 
friendliness  and  affected  humility.  After  cigarettes  had 
been  handed  and  the  usual  trivial  compliments  ex- 
changed, he  began  to  apologise  for  the  lateness  of  the 
hour  in  making  his  visit,  saying  that  he  had  ordered  his 
horse  to  be  saddled  the  moment  he  had  heard  of  my 
presence  in  his  province,  and  now  came  to  offer  me  a 
guard  of  policemen  for  my  personal  safety  (mark  the 
incongruity!)  while  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Aghios 
Tychona,  as  he  heard  I  had  experienced  some  trouble 
with  some  of  its  inhabitants,  and  if  anything  else  lay  in 
his  power  to  aid  me  I  had  only  to  command  him.  Of 
course  I  did  not  believe  a  word  of  what  he  said,  yet  I 
thanked  him  for  his  polite  interest  in  my  welfare  ;  but 
replied  that  I  required  no  other  protection  than  that  of  my 
own  men,  and  that  throughout  all  my  long  wanderings 
in  the  island  I  had  never  encountered  any  danger.  He 
did  not  make  the  slightest  allusion  to  the  now  vanished 
sarcophagus,  and  after  a  few  more  insipid  compliments 
rose  and  asked  permission  to  leave,  which  was  gladly 
accorded  to  him. 

On  the  southern  slope  of  a  hill  not  far  Irom  Aghios 
Tychona,  and  where  Hammer  wrongly  placed  the  site 
of  the  Temple  of  Venus,  are  still  to  be  seen  sufficient 
remains  of  a  wall  to  suggest  that  a  building  of  some 
kind  had  once  existed  there,  and  I  decided  to  inspect  it 


CHAP.  X.]  MORNING    SERVICE.  2QI 

more  closely  should  I  have  a  leisure  moment  before 
leaving  Amathus.  Being  awakened  one  morning  earlier 
than  usual  by  the  persistent  mosquitos  I  rose,  took 
my  gun,  and  started  alone  for  the  place,  leaving  my 
diggers  near  by,  still  wrapped  in  their  blankets  slumber- 
ing on  the  hard  ground  that  unconscious  sleep  which 
the  bed  of  down  does  not  always  bring.  In  spite  of 
making  several  detours  on  the  way  in  search  of  part- 
ridges I  reached  the  spot  before  sunrise.  Enjoying  the 
solitude  in  which  I  believed  myself,  and  while  climbing 
a  jutting  rock  in  order  to  reach  the  largest  portion  of 
the  standing  wall,  I  was  startled  by  the  voice  of  a  man 
reading  aloud  in  a  nasal  and  unbroken  tone.  I  coughed, 
and  the  sound  immediately  ceased,  but  after  a  moment 
proceeded  as  before.  Upon  reaching  the  wall  I  found 
a  Greek  priest  reading  from  a  book  to  some  nine  or  ten 
stone  cutters.  I  made  a  sign  to  the  priest  (who  upon 
my  appearance  had  stopped)  to  proceed,  and  uncover- 
ins:  mv  head,  waited  a  little  wav  off  until  the  praver 

o  "'  I 

was  over.  Upon  its  termination  the  men  dispersed,  and 
I  approached  the  priest  to  make  some  inquiries,  and 
from  the  old  man's  lips  gathered  the  following  story. 
"  Formerly  a  church  stood  where  are  now  these  few 
ruins-— a  very  long  time  ago,  more  than  200  years  ago!" 
The  old  priest  eyed  me  askance  as  he  said  this,  fearing 
my  archaeological  knowledge  might  dispute  such  remote 
antiquity  ;  but  the  building  was  even  more  ancient  than 
he  imagined,  being  of  the  early  Byzantine  period. 
"  The  church  was  dedicated,"  he  continued,  "  to 
Aghios  Tychona,  who  had  been  killed  here,  and  to  this 
shrine  was  attributed  the  miraculous  power  of  curing 
epileptics.  Many  years  ago  there  existed  one  of  our 
Bishops — a  bad  man,  God  forgive  him  ! — who  ordered  the 
-hurch  "  (in  danger  of  falling,  I  suppose)  "to  be  pulled 
down  and  a  new  one  to  be  built  with  the  same  stones  at 
a  little  distance,  but  the  Saint  would  not  permit  such  a 


CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  X. 

desecration,  and  appeared  in  a  dream  to  all  the  villagers 
of  the  neighbourhood  in  the  same  night,  and  told  them 
to  oppose  so  sacrilegious  a  demolition  by  force,  which  I 
assure  you  they  would  have  done  if  the  Bishop  had  not 
desisted.  As  a  punishment  the  Bishop  was  afflicted 
with  epilepsy,  became  crazy,  and  in  a  fit  destroyed 
himself." 

What,  however,  the  "  wicked  Bishop  "  was  not  per- 
mitted to  do,  time  and  the  want  of  repairs  have 
accomplished.  A  mass  of  rubbish  and  stones,  with 
here  and  there  a  piece  of  wall  a  few  feet  in  height,  are 
all  that  remain  to  mark  the  spot  of  the  "  martyred 
Saint  ;  "  but  a  Greek  priest  comes  every  Monday  in  the 
year  at  break  of  day  to  pray  among  the  stones.  Before 
ascending  the  hill  he  rings  a  hand-bell,  and  those 
peasants  who  wish  gather  there  together  for  prayer.  I 
asked  the  priest  why  the  church  in  the  village  near  by, 
called  Aghios  Tychona,  was  dedicated  to  St.  Nicholas 
instead  of  to  St.  Tychona,  and  he  seemed  a  moment 
puzzled,  then  in  a  grave  tone  of  voice  answered  that 
the  "  Saint"  had  forbidden  it. 

The  early  morning,  with  the  earth  still  bathed  in  dew 
the  sun  just  rising,  throwing  its  glories  over  sea  and 
land,  the  solemnity  of  the  hour,  the  profound  tranquillity 
that  reigned  around,  where  nought  met  the  eye  that 
told  of  man,  fitted  so  well  with  the  scene  of  prayer,  and 
the  legend  I  had  just  been  listening  to,  that  a  melan- 
choly charm  invested  these  simple  ruins  for  the  moment, 
which  more  pretentious  ones  at  a  different  hour  would 
have  failed  to  convey  ;  and  I  sat  down  on  the  base  of 
a  broken  column  to  muse  on  the  great  lesson  so  often 
repealed,  of  the  finiteness  of  man,  while  Nature  in  her 
grandeur  rolls  on.  "the  same  yesterday,  to-day,  and 
for  ever." 


CHAPTER    XI. 

CURIUM. 

Curium  founded  by  Argives. — Identification  of  site. — Traces  of  town 
in  plain  below. — Theatre,  several  temples. — Hippodrome  and 
aqueduct. — Cisterns  or  granaries,  public  wells. — Exploration  of  one 
of  the  temples.  —  Mosaic  pavement.  —  Rock-cut  vaults  containing 
treasure. — Description  of  their  contents.  —  Gold  armlets  with  name 
of  king  of  Paphos. — Tombs  in  neighbouring  hills  and  plain. — 
Discovery  of  Temple  of  Apollo  Hylates.  — Greek  inscriptions.— 
Statues  from  the  neighbourhood. — Journey  to  Cape  Gatto.  — Dis- 
covery of  Ktiri,  its  cemetery. — Wild  cats  and  asps.  -  Ruins  of 
Greek  convent  at  Acrotiri. ---Return  to  Larnaca.  —  End  of  explora- 
tions.— Departure  from  the  island. 

TRAVELLING  due  west  from  the  ruins  of  Amathus  or 
Palaeo-Limassol,  as  the  site  is  now  called,  after  a 
ride  of  live  hours,  mostly  through  a  fertile  and  well 


2Q4  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  XI. 

irrigated  plain,  shaded  by  carob  and  olive  trees,  in 
which  are  situated  the  large  town  of  Limassol,  and  the 
small  but  picturesque  villages  of  Kolossi  and  Episkopi, 
\ve  reach  the  western  shore  of  Cyprus,  near  which  once 
existed  the  royal  city  of  Curium. 

Built,  like  an  eagle's  nest,  on  the  summit  of  a  rocky 
elevation  some  300  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and 
almost  inaccessible  on  three  sides,  the  city  must  have 
defied  in  former  days  all  foes,  whether  armed  with  bow 
and  arrows,  or  with  shield  and  spears  ;  and  her  inhabi- 
tants must  have  enjoyed  from  that  eminence  with  the 
fine  bay  stretching  away  from  the  foot  of  their  mountain, 
the  lovely  scenery  which  still  presents  itself  on  every 
side. 

At  a  short  distance  one  would  take  this  rock  for  the 
walls  of  a  huge  mediaeval  castle  in  ruins  ;  but  if  the 
traveller  coming  from  Episkopi  approach  it  nearer,  he 
will  be  surprised  at  the  patience,  labour,  and  ingenuity 
of  the  people,  who,  having  selected  that  excellent  spot 
for  their  habitation,  forced  the  gigantic  rock  to  take  the 
shape  they  wished,  and  to  become  subservient  to  their 
need,  and  that  too  with  the  poor  tools  at  their  command, 
of  which  traces  are  still  visible.  The  rock  is  of  common 
calcareous  sandstone,  and  has  been  cut,  on  the  east  and 
south  sides,  into  a  quite  perpendicular  face. 

Forty  feet  up  from  the  ground  a  large  plateau  is 
cut  on  the  slope,  about  100  feet  wide,  and  then  scooped 
25  feet  deep,  resembling  a  moat  round  a  modern 
fortress.  This  is  all  that  meets  the  eye  of  the  traveller 
when  he  has  approached  within  a  few  yards  of  the  rock; 
but  if  he  ascend  the  little  slope,  and  from  the  plateau 
look  into  the  ditch,  he  will  be  astonished  at  what  he 
beholds.  The  idea  that  this  ditch  was  excavated  for  a 
defensive  purpose  alone,  in  order  to  render  a  sudden 
assault  upon  the  city  impossible,  is  dispelled,  and  a 
feeling  of  admiration  arises,  when  one  remarks  with 


CHAP.  XL]  ASPECT    OF    CURIUM.  295 

what  care  every  inch  of  available  space,  both  at  the 
base  of  the  rock  and  in  the  wall  opposite,  has  been 
husbanded  for  the  purpose  of  building  another  city — the 
city  of  their  dead.  Thousands  and  thousands  of  rock- 
cut  tombs  once  occupied  this  space.  Those  at  the  base 
of  the  rock  resembled  perfectly  in  form  and  size  the 
tombs  at  Palaeo-Limassol.  In  the  wall  facing-  the 
ditch  they  were  in  three  regular  tiers,  but  most  of  them 
are  now  destroyed.  The  first  consisted  of  oven-shaped 
tombs,  forming  as  it  were  an  arched  structure  for  the 
support  of  the  upper  ones,  which  were  rectangular, 
much  larger,  and  finished  with  great  care.  These 
were  not,  as  in  the  first  tier,  mere  cavities  made  to 
receive  the  bodies,  but  were  in  reality  small  sepulchral 
chambers  cut  in  the  rock,  in  the  centre  of  each  of  which 
stood  a  sarcophagus,  which  was  a  part  of  the  chamber 
itself,  and  in  some  instances  rose  twenty-two  inches 
above  the  floor,  while  in  others  it  was  sunk  below  the 
surface,  the  edge  or  rim  only  appearing.  It  requires  a 
close  examination  to  convince  one  that  the  stone  coffin 
and  the  sepulchral  chamber  are  of  one  piece. 

I  was  disappointed,  however,  to  find  that  while  the 
builders  had  paid  much  attention  to  the  general  plan  of 
these  tombs,  they  had  not  made  them  of  the  same  size. 
In  truth,  I  measured  many  of  them,  but  did  not  find  two 
of  like  dimensions.  All  differed  in  this  respect  from  a 
few  inches  to  a  foot.  Their  average  size  is  the  following 
-  height,  six  feet  ten  inches;  length,  eight  feet;  width, 
four  feet  two  inches. 

Not  only  had  the  builders  honeycombed  with  tombs 
the  base  of  the  rock,  the  ditch,  and  the  inner  side  of  the 
wall,  but  they  had  cut  their  larger  sepulchres,  consisting 
of  two  or  more  chambers,  into  the  slope  of  the  sur- 
rounding hills— wherever,  in  fact,  they  found  solid  rock. 
Even  the  plain  below,  opposite  the  southern  entrance, 
extending  westward  as  far  as  the  sea-shore,  has  not  been 


2Q6  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  XI. 

spared  ;  those  are  the  only  tombs  which  had  not  been 
opened  long  ago. 

At  a  later  period  a  Christian  village,  the  church  of 
which,  dedicated  to  Aghios  Ermojeni,  is  still  extant,  had 
been  built  on  a  portion  of  this  plain,  almost  at  the  foot 
of  Curium.  In  its  immediate  vicinity  I  found  small 
square  foundations  of  houses,  and  some  early  Christian 
graves,  but  digging  twenty-seven  feet  deeper  I  dis- 
covered that  the  whole  ground  beneath  was  full  of 
tombs  belonging  to  the  early  inhabitants  of  Curium,  and 
occupying  at  least  half  a  mile  in  extent.  In  a  dale  200 
yards  east  of  this  church,  and  at  a  depth  of  twenty-three 
feet  from  the  surface,  I  met  with  a  wall  made  of  huge 
blocks  of  limestone  four  feet  seven  inches  thick, 
cemented  with  mortar,  and  going  eleven  feet  nine 
inches  deep  ;  its  length  I  could  not  ascertain,  as  it 
extended  beneath  a  cotton  field  belonging  to  a  Turk  on 
one  side,  and  on  the  otner  reached  the  rock  of  Curium, 
where  it  abruptly  ceased.  The  distance  I  was  able  to 
explore  measured  thirty-two  feet.  At  another  place, 
about  1000  yards  south  of  this  dale,  I  found  a  similar 
wall,  but  it  ran  in  an  opposite  direction,  also  extending 
beneath  fields  cultivated  and  belonging  to  Turks  of 
Episkopi,  who  objected  to  my  further  exploration  on 
that  spot. 

The  tombs  in  this  plain  are  found  at  a  depth  varying 
according  to  the  distance  of  the  underlying  rock,  some 
being  as  much  as  iortv  feet,  while  others  are  onlv  seven 
or  ten  feet  below  the  surface.  None  of  them  had  been 
previously  disturbed  ;  their  doors  were  as  hermetically 
closed  as  when  the  last  body  had  been  deposited. 
Unfortunately  the  roofs  of  most  had  fallen  in,  and  the 
interiors  were  filled  with  fragments  of  rock  and  earth  ; 
for  this  reason  ie\v  objects  were  got  out  intact.  In 
the  tombs  where  the  roofs  were  thicker  and  had  not 
fallen  in.  the  earth  had  sifted  in  to  the  height  of  several 


CHAP.  XL] 


TOMBS    AT    CURIUM. 


297 


feet,  but  it  was  not  very  difficult  to  remove.  The 
objects  found  in  them  were  precisely  in  the  position  in 
which  they  had  been  originally  placed.  In  no  case 
were  there  less  than  two  bodies.  The  stone  slab 
havinsf  been  removed  from  the  entrance  of  one  of  the 

o 

tombs,  the  first  objects  found  were  two  earthenware 
lamps,  coarsely  and  curiously  made,  lying  in  the  door- 
way. Inside  stood  four  amphorae  of  a 
peculiar  shape,  upon  one  of  which  were 
traces  of  Phoenician  letters  inscribed 
with  black  paint ;  two  of  these  were  on 
each  side  of  the  doorway,  and  all  were 
in  an  upright  position.  Further  to 
the  left,  where  some  bones  marked  the 
vSpot  on  which  the  corpse  had  lain,  was 
a  plain  gold  ring,  in  the  shape  of  a 
modern  wedding  ring,  and  two  silver 
bracelets,  finishing  at  the  extremities 
with  asp's  heads  ;  also  two  silver  ear- 
rings, much  oxidised,  and  a  bronze 
mirror  with  a  short  handle. 

On  the  right-hand  side  were  a  bronze  cup,  almost 
destroyed  by  oxidisation,  and  some  earthenware  vases 
with  the  same  kind  of  ornament  as  those  found  at 
Idalium,  namely,  concentric  circles,  zigzag  lines,  and 
chequers,  but  upon  a  red-coloured  ground. 

From  the  objects  found  in  this  tomb,  it  is  evident  that 
it  had  contained  two  bodies,  a  man  on  the  right,  and 
a  woman  (probably  his  wife)  on  the  left.  The  same 
peculiarity  I  remarked  here  as  I  had  also  in  some 
tombs  at  Idalium  and  at  Ormidia,  that  the  right 
arm  of  the  skeleton  was  placed  across  the  breast, 
the  hand  resting  in  a  dish  at  the  side  of  the  head. 
I  call  the  attention  of  archaeologists  to  this  fact  (an 
exact  drawing  of  the  skeleton  is  seen  at  page  298), 
as  it  is  inexplicable  to  me.  I  may,  however,  mention 


2g8 


CYPRUS. 


[CHAP.  XI. 


that  among  the  antiquities  discovered  by  Layard,  and 
no\v  exhibited  in  cases  in  the  British  Museum,  are 
several  circular  bronze  bowls,  each  containing  the  bones 
of  a  hand.  But  whether  he  found  them  in  tombs,  or 
under  what  circumstances,  I  have  not  been  able  to  learn. 


The  rock  of  Curium  shows  the  ravages  of  time  in 
numerous  seams,  presenting  in  some  places  the  ap- 
pearance of  a  colossal  sponge.  Enormous  pieces  of  it, 
split  from  top  to  bottom,  are  ready  to  fall  at  any  mo- 
ment. Blocks,  many  tons  in  weight,  which  had  been 
excavated  into  tombs,  have  already  fallen,  no  one  knows 
when,  filling  up  the  ditch  in  several  places,  and  shatter- 
ing in  their  fall  the  tombs  beneath.  The  inhabitants  of 
Episkopi  (a  village  which  came  into  existence  during 
the  reign  of  the  Lusignan  kings,  1200  A.D.,  and  was 
held  as  fief  by  a  brother  of  Catherine  Cornaro)  have 
for  generations  found  in  these  blocks  abundant  material 
for  the  construction  and  repair  of  their  dwellings. 

Curium  had  been  originally  the  settlement  of  an  Argive 
colony,  as  we  gather  from  Strabo  (xiv.  683)  and  Hero- 
dotus (v.  113),  but  no  special  leader  is  assigned  to  it, 
since  the  explanation  of  its  having  been  founded  by 
Cureus,  a  son  of  Cinyras,  as  given  by  Stephanus  Byzan- 
tinus,  cannot  be  accepted.  This  Argive  origin  is  further 
confirmed  by  the  importance  which  Curium  attached  to 
the  worship  of  Apollo,  and  by  the  fact  that  among  the 
neighbouring  villages  or  small  towns,  which  appeared 
to  have  been  leagued  with  Curium,  was  one  named 


CHAP.  XL]  SKETCH    OF    CURIUM.  2QQ 

Argos.  Possibly  Engel  is  right  (i.  p.  237)  when  he 
conjectures  that  Dmetor  the  lasicle,  whom  Ulysses  calls 
King  of  Cyprus  (Odyssey,  xvii.  442),  may  have  been  of 
the  Argive  family  of  lasos,  and  more  strictly  only  King 
of  Curium.  With  this  apparently  Greek  origin,  it  is 
strange  that  in  the  revolt  raised  against  the  Persians 
by  Onesilos  of  Salamis,  the  King  of  Curium,  Stasanor, 
should  have  deserted  to  the  Persians  (B.C.  498).  At  an 
earlier  period  we  find  a  King  Eteandros  included  among 
the  Cypriote  monarchs  who  paid  tribute  to  Esarhaddon, 
and  whom  he  directed  to  send  building  material  for  his 
palace  at  Nineveh.  But  on  the  whole  Curium  appears 
to  have  taken  very  little  part  in  the  public  affairs  of  the 
island.  In  the  time  of  Alexander  the  Great,  we  find  the 
King  Pasicrates  sending  ships  to  assist  him  in  the  siege 
of  Tyre.  The  city  of  Curium  had  three  entrances,  one 
on  the  south,  one  on  the  west,  and  a  third  on  the  north 
side,  near  the  present  road  to  Paphos  ;  the  first  and 
second  are  still  visible.  The  southern  entrance,  a 
square  opening  hewn  in  the  rock,  is  56  feet  wide.  A 
flight  of  steps  led  up  to  the  gate,  bridge,  or  whatever 
else  closed  this  entrance,  which  is  still  marked  by  the 
fragment  of  a  column  standing  on  its  'Original  base. 

The  western  entrance  faces  the  bay,  and  seems  to 
have  been  the  principal  one  ;  but  no  traces  of  steps  or 
road  leading  to  it  can  now  be  seen.  On  either  side  had 
been  a  small  building  (probably  watch-towers  for  a 
guard),  now  represented  by  two  shapeless  mounds  of 
debris.  I  explored  one  of  them,  and  found  it  exactly 
25  feet  square  ;  both  were  connected  with  the  wall 
which  had  encircled  the  crest  of  the  hill.  Entering  the 
city  from  the  southern  gateway,  and  walking  a  few 
minutes  in  a  north-easterly  direction,  one  meets  with 
the  rums  of  a  semicircular  structure,  measuring  720 
feet  in  circumference,  probably  those  of  a  theatre.  In 
the  immediate  vicinity  is  a  quantity  of  stones,  broken 


300 


CYPRUS. 


[CHAP.  XI, 


pottery,  and  other  rubbish,  with  small  square  foundations 
underneath,  which  indicate  the  business  quarter  of  the 
city. 

The  area  of  Curium  was  much  greater  than  that 
of  Amathus  ;  and  though  the  foundations  of  its  wall  on 
the  north  side  are  only  half-an-hour's  walk  from  the 
southern  entrance,  yet  beyond  them  there  are  visible 
remains  of  other  ancient  habitations.  Except  Xeo- 
Paphos,  there  is  no  place  in  Cyprus  which  presents 
on  the  surface  of  the  soil  so  large  a  quantity  of  debris. 
Pococke,  who  visited  Cyprus  for  a  few  weeks,  speaks 
of  having  seen  remains  of  walls  at  Curium,  but  they 
were  probably  those  of  the  Hippodrome,  which  are  on 
his  route  from  Paphos.  It  is  singular  that  the  dis- 
tinguished French  archaeologist,  Count  De  Vogue,  who 
in  1862  visited  and,  as  he  says,  thoroughly  explored 
Cyprus,*  does  not  mention  the  ruins  of 
Curium.  I  counted  seven  spots  where 
shafts  of  columns,  either  in  marble  or 
granite,  are  lying  half  buried  in  the 
ground,  probably  in  the  same  position 
as  when  they  fell  centuries  ago  !  In  one 
place  there  are  stone  steps  quite  worn 
out  by  the  busy  feet  which  came  and 
went  to  a  cistern  near  by,  probably  a 
public  well,  where  the  Rebeccas  of 
Curium  resorted  to  fill  their  water  jars 
at  evening,  and  talk  over  the  news  and 
scandal  of  the  day.  In  another  spot  a 
large  diota  lies  broken  beneath  a  rec- 
tangular stone,  as  undisturbed  as  if  the  crash  had 
occurred  but  yesterday.  Broken  lamps,  and  handles  of 


CHAP.  XI.] 


DISCOVERY    OF    MOSAIC. 


301 


a  diota  inscribed,  a  large  millstone  with  a  copper  ring 
riveted  into  it,  and  every  where  masses  of  broken 
pottery  strew  the  ground.  Now  and  then  parts  of  the 
street  pavements  are  visible,  marked  with  the  tracks  of 
chariot  wheels,  and  altogether  the  scene  is  one  which 
fires  the  imagination  to  conjure  up  the  ancient  clays  of 
the  city. 

Hundreds  of  small  mounds  mark  where  ordinary 
dwelling-houses  had  stood.  The  larger  ones  we  may 
conclude  are  the  debris  of  public  buildings  or  palaces. 
I  explored  some  of  the  larger  mounds,  near  which  lay 
columns,  and  from  the  form  of  their  foundations  and 
the  fragments  of  statues  which  they  yielded,  I  judge 
them  to  have  been  temples. 

One  of  these  places,  where  eight  shafts  of  columns  of 
a  brownish  granite  lay  imbedded  in  the  ground,  at- 
tracted me  more  particu- 
larly, and  wishing  to 
measure  some  of  them, 
I  had  two  removed,  and 
found  their  diameter  to 
be  22\  inches,  and  their 
length  1 8  feet.  Under 
these  shafts  appeared  a 
mosaic  pavement,  com- 
posed of  small  tesselke 
of  marble  and  stone,  of 
four  different  colours-- 
red, white,  brown,  and 
blue,  inlaid  in  different 
patterns,  and  forming 
large  lotus  flowers.  The 

columns  had  damaged  the  pavement  considerably  in 
falling,  yet  the  whole  design  can  be  easily  traced. 
After  their  removal  the  mosaic  was  found  to  be  entirely 
broken  up  at  several  places,  not  by  the  force  of  the 


3O2  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  XI. 

columns  falling  upon  it,  but  by  some  treasure  seeker, 
who,  probably  after  having  dug  six  or  seven  feet  deeper, 
and  having  met  with  the  eastern  foundation  of  the  build- 
ing, had  broken  it  up,  and  rinding  nothing  beneath,  had 
evidently  abandoned  the  undertaking  as  unprofitable. 
This  mosaic  was  laid  upon  a  layer  of  charcoal  about 
two  feet  thick,  and  beneath  the  charcoal  there  was  a 
bed  of  sand  about  eight  inches  thick. 

After  carefully  surveying  the  place,  I  decided  to  con- 
tinue the  excavations  beneath  that  portion  of  the  mosaic, 
inasmuch  as  it  sounded  quite  hollow.  In  fact,  after 
digging  some  twenty  feet  deeper  than  the  treasure 
hunter  had  gone,  I  discovered  a  gallery  excavated  in 
the  rock,  eleven  feet  four  inches  long,  four  feet  ten  inches 
wide,  and  scarcely  four  feet  high.  One  end  of  it  evidently 
communicated  with  the  building  above,  though  only 
two  stone  steps,  also  cut  in  the  rock,  now  exist.  At 
the  other  end  I  found  a  doorway,  carelessly  closed  by  a 
stone  slab.  As  soon  as  this  stone  was  removed,  there 
appeared  an  oven-shaped  cavity,  filled  to  within  a  few 
inches  of  the  roof  with  fine  earth,  which,  as  usual,  had 
percolated  from  above.  Alter  the  removal  of  some 
three  thousand  baskets  of  this  earth,  another  opening 
appeared  in  the  north  wall,  which  led  into  an  inner 
room  filled  in  like  manner.  I  descended  into  the  first 
chamber  for  the  purpose  of  examining  it,  and  while 
poking  into  the  remaining  earth  with  my  foot-rule,  I 
struck  something  hard,  which  turned  out  to  be  a 
bracelet,  with  several  other  gold  objects  in  a  small 
heap.  This  was  unusual,  as  when  gold  ornaments  are 
discovered  in  a  tomb,  they  are  invariably  found  mixed 
with  bones,  showing  that  they  had  been  worn  by  the 
person  buried.  I  could  not  even  suspect  my  diggers  of 
having  temporarily  hidden  them  there,  in  order  to  take 
them  away  at  their  leisure,  because  when  they  are 
removing  the  filtrated  earth  from  a  tomb,  thev  have  no 


CHAP.  XL]     TREASURE    CHAMBERS    OF    TEMPLE.  303 

light,  nor  need  any  inside,  and  if,  by  some  extraordinary 
chance,  one  of  them  had  found  those  objects,  he  could 
have  put  them  into  his  pocket  without  fear  of  detec- 
tion, as  I  never  had  any  of  my  diggers  searched,  even 
when  strong  suspicion  existed  against  any  of  them. 

After  this  discovery,  I  ordered  all  the  earth  to  be 
removed  from  both  chambers  ;  this  is  seldom  practised 
when  the  tomb  is  composed  of  one  or  two  chambers 
only,  because  when  they  are  filled  with  earth  entirely 
(and  this  is  unfortunately  very  often  the  case),  it 
adheres  so  tenaciously  to  the  roof  that  the  diggers 
prefer  to  remove,  by  tunnelling,  that  portion  of  it  from 
the  right  and  left  of  the  doorway,  where  they  know  the 
objects,  if  any,  are  always  to  be  found,  rather  than  to 
go  through  the  long  and  laborious  process  of  removing 
all  the  earth  with  baskets. 

When  the  second  chamber  was  half  emptied,  a  third 
one  was  discovered,  and  a  week  later  the  doorway  of  a 
fourth  made  its  appearance.  A  whole  month  was 
spent  in  simply  removing  the  earth  from  these  four 
rooms ;  but  a  layer  was  left  in  each  of  them,  as  usual, 
about  a  foot  and  a  half  deep.  It  is  between  this 
layer  and  the  pavement  that  the  sepulchral  contents  are 
always  to  be  found.  This  performance  my  diggers  call 
"trimming  the  tomb."  When  this  was  accomplished 
the  gang  was  ordered  off  to  some  other  work.  I 
descended  at  last,  and  accompanied  by  the  foreman, 
and  a  man  carrying  a  lantern,  began  to  examine  dili- 
gently each  room.  These  rooms  had  been  roughly 
excavated  in  the  limestone  rock,  by  means  of  a  copper 
or  iron  tool  scarcely  half  an  inch  wide,  the  traces  of 
which  are  plainly  visible  everywhere.  Three  of  the 
rooms  are  very  nearly  of  the  same  size,  the  fourth  is  a 
little  smaller. 

The  accompanying  plan  will  show  the  shape  and  the 
relative  position  of  the  four  chambers.  They  are  beneath 


CYPRUS. 


[CHAP.  XI. 


the  eastern  and  northern  foundations  of  the  mosaic  pave- 
ment. A.  Passage  facing  south,  and  leading  into  the 
rooms :  length,  eleven  feet  four  inches ;  height,  three 
feet  eleven  inches ;  width,  four  feet  ten  inches.  AA. 
Passage  leading  westward  :  height,  two  and  a-half  feet ; 
width,  two  feet ;  length  beyond  thirty  feet  is  unexplored. 
B.  Doorways  communicating  with  the  rooms  ;  they  are 


Scale  -  32.  feel  to  an  Inch 
Plan  of  Treasure  Chambers  of  Temple  at  Curium. 

all  of  the  same  size  :  height,  two  feet  seven  inches : 
width  three  feet ;  depth  of  doorway,  one  foot  four  inches, 
c,  D,  E.  Rooms :  height  fourteen  feet  six  inches ; 
width,  twenty  one  feet ;  length  twenty  three  feet.  F. 
Room  on  the  north-east  corner  of  the  mosaic  pavement : 
height,  fourteen  feet ;  width,  nineteen  feet ;  and  length 
twenty  feet.  G.  Two  steps  cut  in  the  rock,  which  led 
into  the  passage  A. 

After  having  measured  each  room  and  searched  in 
vain  for  some  inscription  upon  the  walls,  I  retraced  my 
steps  to  Room  c,  in  which  a  few  weeks  before  I  had 
discovered  the  gold  ornaments.  The  layer  of  earth 
was  searched  by  my  foreman,  carefully  and  delicately, 
with  the  point  of  his  knife  ;  afterwards  he  passed  it 
twice  through  his  fingers;  this  done,  the  man  with  the 


CHAP.  XI.]     TREASURE    CHAMBERS    OF    TEMPLE.  305 

lantern  took  away  this  earth,  again  examining  it,  in 
case  anything  had  been  passed  unobserved.  The 
fellow  bracelet  to  that  found  a  month  before,  was  soon 
discovered  not  far  off,  in  company  with  two  gold  signet- 
rings  having  scarabs  in  agate  with  Egyptian  repre- 
sentations engraved  upon  them  ;  also  four  pairs  of 
earrings  and  many  gold  beads,  some  of  which  were 
still  strung  alternately  with  rock-crystal  beads  upon  a 
gold  wire,  and  had  as  a  pendent  a  little  rock-crystal 
vase  finely  cut.  I  now  remarked  for  the  first  time  the 
total  absence  of  human  remains  and  sepulchral  vases, 
and  concluded  that  these  vaults  must  have  belonged  to 
the  building  above. 

Although  no  statuary  or  architectural  fragments 
existed  above  these  four  rooms,  with  the  exception  of 
the  granite  columns  already  mentioned,  yet  I  am  con- 
vinced that  the  structure  must  have  been  a  temple  to 
which  these  vaults  must  have  served  as  treasure- 
chambers.  \Ve  know  from  Strabo  (c.  421)  that  the 
treasures  at  Delphi  were  kept  under  the  temple,  and 
that  during  the  Holy  War  Onomarchus  set  men  to 
search  for  them,  but  alarmed  by  an  earthquake  they 
desisted  and  fled.  In  the  rubbish  removed  from  the 
surface  of  the  mosaic  were  found  several  scarabs  and 
cylinders  in  serpentine,  with  rough  carvings  upon  them; 
a  silver  ring  and  three  cylinders  were  also  discovered 
beneath  the  mosaic  pavement,  in  the  direction  of  the 
two  stone  steps  near  a  piece  of  wood,  which  may  have 
been  from  its  shape  part  of  a  ladder. 

The  pavement  in  each  room  was  inlaid  with  blue 
pebbles  on  a  bed  of  sand  and  plaster,  as  is  the 
practice  to  this  day  in  Cyprus ;  but  even  with  this 
precaution  the  vaults  must  have  been  always  damp, 
and  unfit  to  be  permanent  repositories  for  such  valuable 
objects.  I  was  satisfied  by  the  way  in  which  the  stone 
slab  had  been  carelesslv  or  hurriedly  replaced  before 


306  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  XI. 

the  entrance,  that  whatever  was  to  be  found  in  those 
vaults  would  be  objects  which  had  been  left  behind 
under  some  unexplained  circumstance.  While  reflect- 
ing thus  I  was  very  agreeably  interrupted  by  an 
exclamation  from  my  foreman,  who  rising  from  his 
reclining  position,  handed  me  two  gold  armlets,  weigh- 
ing over  two  pounds  ;  but  what  to  my  eyes  made  them 
much  more  valuable,  was  the  inscription  in  the  Cypriote 
character,  beautifully  engraved  on  the  inner  side  of 
each.  The  Cypriote  inscriptions  hitherto  found  in  the 
western  part  of  the  island  are  read  from  left  to  right. 
That  on  the  gold  armlets  consists  of  the  following 
thirteen  letters  or  characters,  divided  by  a  perpendicular 
line  into  two  groups,  of  which  the  first  is  the  name  of  a 
King  of  Paphos,  who  probably  offered  these  armlets  to 
some  divinity  in  that  temple. 
It  is  as  follows  : 


e  -  te  -  a  -  do  -  ro         to  -  pa  -  po  -  ba  -  si  -  le  -  o  -  s. 
'Erea  (v)  Spov  Tou  llcu/»ou 


The  omission  of  the  v,  and  also  the  termination  of 
the  genitive  o  for  ov,  as  in  early  Greek  inscriptions,  are 
peculiarities  of  the  Cypriote  dialect,  which  have  already 


CHAP.  XI.]          INSCRIBED    ARMLETS    OF    GOLD.  307 

been  pointed  out  by  philologists.  There  can  hardly  be  a 
doubt  that  this  Eteandros,  King  of  Paphos,  is  the  same 
whose  name  occurs  under  the  form  of  Ithuander,  in 
the  list  of  Cypriote  kings  who  brought  tribute  to  the 
Assyrian  monarch  Esarhaddon  (B.C.  672).  This  list  is 
engraved  on  an  Assyrian  cylinder  in  the  British 
Museum,  and  has  been  published  in  Mr.  George 
Smith's  "  History  of  Assyria,"  pp.  129,  130,  and  in 
the  "  Records  of  the  Past,"  iii.  p.  108.  Mr.  Smith,  after 
giving  the  names  of  the  twelve  kings  of  Palestine  who 
had  at  this  same  time  submitted  to  the  Assyrian, 
proceeds  with  the  list  of  the  Cypriote  kings  as  follows  : 
"  /Egistos,  King  of  Idalium  ;  Pithagoras,  King  of 
Kidrusi ;  Kin  .  .  .  .  ,  King  of  Soli ;  Ithuander,  King 
of  Paphos  ;  Erisu,  King  of  Salamis  ;  Damastes,  King 
of  Curium  ;  Karmes,  King  of  Tamissus  ;  Damos,  King 
of  Ammochosta ;  Unasagus,  King  of  Lidini  ;  Puzus, 
King  of  Aphrodisia — ten  kings  of  the  island  of  Cyprus.'' 
All  these  monarchs  sent  presents,  and  Esarhaddon 
directed  them  to  supply  him  with  building  materials  for 
the  palace  he  was  building  at  Nineveh. 

The  "  Records  of  the  Past  "  (loc.  cit.)  gives  a  different 
reading  of  some  of  these  names  : 

11  i  Ekistuz,  King  of  Edihal  =  /Egisthus,  King  of 
Idalium. 

"  2.  Pisuagura,  King  of  Kittie  —  Pythagoras,  King  of 
Citium. 

"3.  Itudagon,  King  of  Pappa=  u  Dagon  is  with  him,'' 
King  of  Paphos. 

"  4.   Erili,  King  of  Sillu  =  King  of  Soli. 

"  5.   Damasus,  King  of  Kuri  =  King  of  Curium. 

"  6.    Rumitzu,  King  of  Tamisus. 

"  7.  Damusi,  King  of  Amtikhadasta  —  King  of  Ammo- 
chosta (modern  Famagosta). 

'-  8,   Unassagura,  King  of  Lidini  =  Anaxagoras  ? 

"9.    Butzu,  King  of  Upri  ....  —  King  of  Aphrodisium. 


308  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  XI. 

"  The  ten  Kings  of  Cyprus  which  is  in  the  middle 
of  the  sea.  Altogether  twenty-two  kings  of  Syria 
and  the  sea-coasts,  and  the  islands,  all  of  them, 
and  I  passed  them  in  review  before  me."  The 
name  of  Cyprus  in  the  cuneiform  inscriptions  is 
Atuan,  whence  perhaps  the  Greek  name  for  the  island, 
Akamantis. 

During  the  several  days  employed  in  exploring  Room 
C,  I  remained  in  it  the  whole  time,  and  every  object 
was  discovered  in  my  presence.  Scarcely  a  moment 
passed  without  some  gold  ornament  being  brought  to 
light.  These  ornaments  include  numerous  finger-rings, 
having  in  the  place  of  a  bezel  a  scarab  or  scaraboid 
attached  by  a  swivel.  These  scarabs  and  scaraboids 
are  of  agate,  onyx,  carnelian,  jasper,  sard,  chalcedony, 
and  other  stones ;  they  are  engraved  with  designs  in 
intaglio,  and  had  been  used  as  signets.  These  signet- 
rings  are,  some  in  pure  solid  gold,  and  others  massive 
silver ;  in  a  few  instances  the  scarab  is  encircled  in 
gold,  but  the  ring  is  in  silver  and  much  oxidised.  In 
many  other  instances  the  bezel  of  the  ring  is  of 
gold,  with  a  design  engraved  on  it  in  intaglio.  A 
detailed  description,  along  with  illustrations  of  all 
the  important  rings,  will  be  found  in  the  Appendix. 
As  specimens  of  archaic  Greek  gem  engraving,  some 
of  the  intaglios  discovered  in  this  room  perhaps  surpass 
in  beaut}-  and  style  of  execution  anything  of  the  kind 
previously  known.  It  will  be  seen  as  a  general  rule 
that  when  the  mounting  is  in  solid  gold,  the  engraving 
on  the  stone  is  of  indifferent  workmanship,  and  that 
in  fact  the  artistic  value  of  the  ring  rises  in  inverse 
proportion  to  its  intrinsic  value.  There  are  also  many 
gold  rings  set  with  stones  which  have  never  been 
engraved,  including  a  large  and  very  fine  one  with 
an  amethyst  and  two  nude  statuettes  wrought  in  gold 
with  some  fine  granulated  work.  There  is  also  a 


CHAP.  XL] 


TREASURE    OF    CURIUM. 


309 


number   of  solid    gold    rings   without    any  work    upon 
them,  and  a  sceptre  or  mace  in  agate. 

There  was  found  also  another  class  of  curiously 
fashioned  rings  which  have  puzzled  and  still  puzzle 
archaeologists  as  to  their 
use.  They  are  in  the  form 
of  coiled  snakes,  so  made 
that  they  could  not  possibly 
have  been  worn  on  a  finger, 
and  are  of  every  size  ;  some 
have  at  one  end  either  the 
head  of  a  lion,  goat,  gry- 
phon, or  chimaera,  while  the 
other  extremity  finishes  in 
a  point  not  unlikely  made 
to  represent  a  snake's  tail. 
Many  of  these  rings  are 
in  solid  gold,  others  are 
in  gold  but  hollow  inside, 
some  in  silver  gilt,  and 
others  again  in  copper 
covered  with  a  thin  leaf  of 
gold.  Signor  Alessandro 
Castellani  believes  that  they 
have  been  worn  as  earrings, 
and  points  out  that  this 
shape  of  earring  occurs  on 
some  of  the  stone  statues 
found  at  Golgoi,  and  also  on 
coins  of  Tarentum.  Some 
of  these  rings  are  finely  executed  in  the  so-called 
Etruscan  style,  and  so  competent  an  authoritv  as  Mr. 
C.  T.  Newton  undoubtedly  is,  considers  them  to  be 
equal  if  not  superior  in  their  workmanship  to  the  finest 
JBtruscan  jewellery . 

A   large   number  of  earrings  were   found,  mostly  in 


310 


CYPRUS. 


[CHAP.  XI. 


pairs  and  of  many  different  patterns,  but  those  which 
end  in  the  head  of  a  lion,  bull,  goat,  or  chimsera,  are 
the  most  numerous.  Of  th~  many  gold  amulets  found, 


Gold  Kings  with  Chimeras'  ami  Griffons'  Heads. 


some  are  in  the  form  of  a  head  of  the  lion,  bull,  or  calf, 
but  there  is  one  which  deserves  to  be  specially  men- 
tioned. It  reoresents  a  Sphinx,  and  may  be  compared 


Ring  with  Egyptian  I  >esign. 


with  the  figures  of  that  creature  which  occur  as  orna- 
ments on  the  high  crowns  worn  on  some  terra-cotta 
heads  found  at  Citium. 

Besides  the  massive  gold   armlets  already  described, 


CHAP.  XL] 


TREASURE    OF    CURIUM. 


there    are    ten    or    twelve    bracelets.     Of   these,    some 
are    in    plain    solid    gold    weighing    from    200    to    300 


Bracelet  with  Lions'  Heads. 


grammes   each  ;   others    have    at   each    extremity   a   fine 
lion's  head.      Two  of  them   consist  of  gold  bands  over 


an  inch  in  width,  and  have  rosettes,  flowers,  and  other 
designs    in    high    relief,    on    which    are    still    visible    in 


312 


CYPRUS. 


[CHAP.  XI. 


places  remains  of  blue  enamel.  The  most  interesting 
bracelet,  however,  is  one  with  a  large  gold  medallion 
in  the  centre.  Within  this  medallion  is  an  onyx 
which  was  originally  set  in  a  circle  of  silver,  but  the 
silver  was  so  oxidised  that  it  fell  to  dust  when  I  tried 
to  remove  the  earth  from  the  bracelet.  From  this 
medallion  hang  four  gold  chains,  at  the  extremity  of 
which  there  is  a  gold  amulet  on  which  is  an  orna- 
ment similar  to  that  on  the  large  sarcophagus  found 
at  Amathus  ;  the  band  of  the  bracelet  is  formed  by 


' 


a  great  number  of  large  ribbed  gold  beads  soldered 
together  three  by  three.  Similar  bracelets  are  seen 
worn  by  kings  on  the  bas-reliefs  from  Nineveh  in  the 
British  Museum.  Another  large  gold  medallion  was 
found  having  beautiful  granulated  work,  and  like  the 
other  also  set  with  an  onyx  in  the  centre,  not  unlikely 
representing  the  pupil  of  a  human  eye.  This  medallion 
had  probably  also  formed  the  centre-piece  of  a  bracelet. 
It  has  three  loops  at  each  side,  but  no  gold  beads  were 
found  beside  it,  as  in  the  case  of  the  other  bracelet. 


PLATE    XXI. 


CHAP.  XL]  TREASURE    OF    CURIUM.  315 

Among  the  score  of  fine  gold  necklaces  found  in  this 
room,  I  will  mention  some  here.  One  is  composed  of 
seventy  finely  wrought  gold  beads  and  some  twenty- 
large  gold  acorns  as  pendants,  with  a  head  of  Medusa 
as  a  centre-piece.  Another  is  formed  of  beads  having 
pomegranates  and  segments  of  fruits  as  pendants, 
and  a  gold  bottle  as  centre-piece.  This  bottle  can  be 
opened,  and  probably  contained  some  delicate  scent  for 
the  use  of  the  Cypriote  lady  who  wore  it.  A  third 
necklace  consists  of  a  quantity  of  alternate  lotus  flowers 
and  buds  in  gold,  with  an  Egyptian  head  as  centre- 
piece. A  fourth  has  a  number  of  small  carnelian  and 
onyx  bugles  alternating  with  very  fine  granulated  gold 
beads  and  a  number  of  gold  amulets  as  pendants.  A 
fifth  is  composed  of  alternate  carnelian  and  gold  beads 
with  a  carnelian  cone  (symbol  of  Venus  ?)  in  the  centre. 
A  sixth  is  made  of  gold  and  rock-crystal  beads,  with  a 
beautiful  little  vase  of  crystal  as  pendant  ;  nearly  the 
whole  of  this  necklace  was  found  strung  on  a  gold  wire 
in  its  original  order.  But  the  finest  necklace  is  one 
made  of  a  thick  solid  gold  cord  having  at  both  extremi- 
ties lions'  heads  of  very  fine  granulated  work,  and  with 
a  curiously  made  gold  knot  forming  the  clasp  at  the  end. 
Among  the  diadems  some  consist  of  thick  gold  bands 
and  have  concentric  circles  or  lotus  flowers  embossed  on 
them,  while  others  are  of  thin  gold  leaves,  with  figures 
of  animals  and  flowers  stamped  upon  them.  Of  the 
vessels  found  in  this  room  the  principal  one  is  a  gold 
bowl  with  repousse  work  representing  two  rows  of 
palm  trees,  antelopes,  and  aquatic  birds.  In  the 
design  will  be  seen  the  same  mixture  of  Egyptian  and 
Assyrian  influence  which  is  the  characteristic  of  early 
Phoenician  art.  This  bowl  has  been  published  by  Mr. 
Ceccaldi  in  the  "  Revue  Archeologique."  It  appears  to 
be  of  a  much  earlier  epoch  than  the  armlets  of  the 
Paphian  king.  In  this  room  were  also  found  three 


CYPRUS. 


[CHAP.  XI 


alabasti  in  rock-crystal,  a  material  which  seems  to 
have  been  valued  as  much  if  not  more  than  gold.  The 
largest  of  the  three  has  a  funnel  and  top  in  gold  se- 
cured by  a  tiny  gold  chain  to  one  of  its  handles.  I 


Gold  Patera. 


believe  that  this  alabastos  is  quite  unique  of  its  kind. 
I  also  found  a  very  large  rock-crystal  ring  not  engraved, 
and  a  seal  of  the  same  material  witii  the  design  of  a 
man  and  a  quadruped  roughly  engraved  or  cut  on  it. 
There  were  found  in  the  same  room  a  number  of 
Babylonian  cylinders,  three  of  which  have  Assyrian 
inscriptions.  On  one  of  them  Prof.  A.  H.  Sayce  of 
Oxford  Universitv  reads  the  name  of  r.n  earlv  Chaldean 


PLATE     XXII. 


PLATE     XXUI. 


PLATE    XXIV. 


PLATE    XXV. 


GOLD    NECKLACE,  SPHINX,  AND    EARRINGS. 


7.   Kneraved  signets  \vitli  gold  swivel 


S.   Egyptian  scarab. i:us  \\iih  silver  swivel 


/.   I.adv's  silver  belt  with  s<>lc]  ornament 


CHAP.  XI.] 


TREASURE    OF    CURIUM. 


325 


king,  and  gives  the  date  of  it  between  3000  and  2000 
B.C.  These  objects  were  all  found  scattered  in  this 
room  as  if  they  had  been  dropped  amid  hurry  and 
confusion,  and  from  other  indications  also  I  am  of 
opinion  that  this  chamber  had  contained  a  quantity 
of  treasure  which  had  probably  been  successfully 


carried   away  by  the   priests,  when  their  temple  was  on 
the  point  of  destruction. 

Room  I)  contained  over  300  articles  in  silver  and 
silver-gilt,  consisting  of  vases  in  the  shape  of  the 
lecythos,  cylix,  and  ce-nochoe,  goblets,  bowls,  and  dishes, 
massive  armlets  and  bracelets,  chietiv  terminating  in 


PLATE     XXVII. 


GOLD    ORNAMENTS.— FROM    CURIUM 


PLATE    XXVIII. 


GOLD    ORNAMENTS    FROM    CURIUM. 


CHAP.  XI.] 


TREASURE    OF    CURIUM. 


329 


placed  apart  by  themselves.  Unfortunately  the  upper 
and  the  lower  one  having  come  more  in  contact  with 
the  earth  with  which  the  room  was  filled,  had  suffered 
considerably,  and  are  now  broken.  The  centre  one  is 
almost  intact,  bears  traces  of  gilding,  and  has  a 
design  in  embossed  or  repousse  work,  which  presents 


a  mixture  of  the  Egyptian  and  Assyrian  styles  of  art, 
but  with  the  addition  of  Greek  influence,  from  which  it 
may  be  inferred  to  have  been  executed  by  Phcenicians 
or  Cypriotes.  Repeated  in  different  places  will  be  seen 
the  peculiar  form  of  ornament,  having  the  appearance 
of  a  sacred  tree,  which  occurs  on  the  four  corners  of 
the  sculptured  sarcophagus  discovered  at  Amathus. 


33°  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  XI. 

There  is  now  known  a  considerable  series  of  these 
silver  or  silver-gilt  bowls,  found  always  on  the  tracks 
of  the  ancient  Phoenicians,  and  always  presenting  a 
mixture  of  Egyptian  and  Assyrian  in  the  subjects  of 
representation  and  in  the  artistic  treatment.  Where 
hieroglyphics  occur  on  them  they  are  generally  false,  as 
if  made  by  persons  who  did  not  understand  them,  and 
that  those  persons  were  Phoenicians  there  is  no  doubt. 
Among  the  bowls  of  this  class  found  in  1875  at 
Palestrina,  is  one  with  a  Phoenician  inscription  on  it. 
(Gazette  Archeologique,  1877,  plate  5.)  The  other 
antiquities  of  the  tomb  where  they  were  found  were  of 
a  character  which  recalls  the  splendour  of  the  Homeric 
age,  when  the  iliSo^e?  TroAvScuSaAot  supplied  the  Greeks 
with  such  vessels.  Achilles  (Iliad,  xxiii.  741)  offers  a 
silver  vase  as  a  prize  in  the  contests  at  the  obsequies 
of  Patroclus,  and  this  bowl  was  famous,  the  poet  adds, 
all  the  work!  over  for  its  beauty;  the  high  antiquity  and 
Homeric  splendour  of  the  bowls  found  at  Ca^re  in  the 
Regulini-Galassi  tomb  is  also  a  point  which  should  be 
considered.  These  bowls  are  now  in  the  Vatican,  and 
will  be  found  engraved,  Museo  Etrusco  Vat.  i.  pi.  63- 
66.  Another  found  at  Salerno  in  Italy  is  published, 
Mon.  dell'  Inst.  Arch.  ix.  pi.  44,  with  an  article  on  it 
in  the  Annali  (1872,  p.  243)  by  Eignana,  who  assigns 
its  date  to  the  time  of  Psammetichus,  B.C.  666,  or  of 
Assurbampal,  B.C.  680-667.  Two  found  at  Dali  in 
1851-1853  are  now  in  the  Louvre,  and  are  engraved 
and  discussed  bv  Eongperier  in  the  Musee  Napoleon 
III.  pi.  lo-n.  I  found  also  one  in  bronze  and  one  in 
gold.  Of  this  same  class  are  the  bronze  bowls  found 
by  Eayard  at  Nineveh. 

Another  silver  patera  has  a  thin  leaf  of  gold  inside, 
and  on  this  are  several  rows  of  animals  executed  in  a 
manner  which  appears  to  me  to  be  Assyrian  ;  the  silver 
is  considerably  oxidised,  but  the  work  inside  is  quite 


CHAP.  XL]  TREASURE    OF    CURIUM, 

distinct.     Another    patera,  which   was    found   bv   itself 


with    several  gold  leaves  inside,   is  also  engraved,   and 


332  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  XI. 

is  of  pure  Egyptian  workmanship  ;  at  least  the  repre- 
sentations upon  it  are  Egyptian.  Among  the  silver 
vases  is  a  goblet  with  a  row  of  aquatic  birds  round  its 
rim  ;  also  several  other  paterae  with  Mowers  and  other 
ornaments  in  relief. 

In  Room  E  were  found  two  bronze  lamps,  three 
fibulas  of  the  same  metal,  fourteen  alabaster  vases, 
groups  in  terra-cotta  representing  various  scenes  ot 
domestic  life,  horses  and  warriors,  women  carrying 
jars  on  their  heads.  Deserving  of  notice  is  a  little 
chariot  in  calcareous  stone  carrying  two  bearded 
men,  and  drawn  by  two  horses  whose  trappings  are 
identical  with  those  on  the  sarcophagus  of  Amathus. 
There  were  also  many  terra-cotta  vases  with  designs 
and  with  figures  in  relief.  One  having  a  cover 
and  four  handles  is  remarkable  for  its  shape  and  size, 
as  well  as  for  the  richness  of  the  designs  painted 
on  it. 

It  was  found  at  the  entrance  of  Room  D,  leading  to 
Room  E,  broken  to  pieces,  and  belongs  to  the  earliest 
class  of  Greek  vases.  One  would  hardly  hesitate  to  say 
that  this  vase  must  have  come  from  Athens,  if  he  were 
not  assured  of  its  having  been  found  at  Curium  in 
Cyprus  ;  and  even  then  it  would  still  be  allowable  to 
assume  that  it  had  been  imported  from  Athens  in 
ancient  times  ;  so  close  in  all  points,  except  perhaps 
its  remarkable  size  and  beauty,  is  the  resemblance 
between  it  and  the  earliest  Athenian  pottery.  The 
characteristic  of  this  class  of  pottery  is  that  the  entire 
surface  ot  the  vase  is  so  far  as  possible  covered  by 
geometric  patterns  arranged  in  parallel  rows  and  sec- 
tions divided  into  squares.  In  addition  to  these 
geometric  patterns,  we  have  on  the  same  vase  occa- 
sionally animal  figures,  most  generally  the  horse  and 
the  swan,  but  for  what  reason  the  preference  is  given 
to  these  two,  it  is  impossible  to  determine.  It 


PLATE     XXIX. 


CHAP.  XI.]        ARCHAIC    VASE    FROM    CURIUM.  333 

seems  at  first  sight  that  while  the  geometric  patterns 
are  executed  with  precision,  as  if  from  long  practice, 
the  animal  forms  on  the  other  hand  are  exceedinelv 

o  . 

rude,  as  if  they  were  the  first  attempts  at  drawing 
figures.  The  geometric  patterns,  it  will  be  seen,  are 
such  as  are  most  naturally  evolved  in  the  processes 
of  working  in  metal,  and  in  weaving.  For  instance, 
the  rows  of  spirals  which  form  a  frequent  and  very 
graceful  element  of  the  design  on  these  vases  are  nothing 
more  than  a  simple  application  of  what  is  seen  in  a 


Terra-cotta  ocnochoe.     Ht.  14  inches.  Vase  with  rude  design. 

piece  of  gold  or  bronze  wire  with  its  tendency  to  curl 
into  spirals.  The  chess-board  and  other  rectilineal- 
patterns  are  no  less  obviously  derived  from  the  process 
of  weaving. 

It  is  true  that  an  immense  number  of  vases  with 
geometric  patterns,  and  some  also  on  which  rude 
figures  of  horses  and  swans  are  introduced  beside  the 
patterns,  have  been  found  in  Cyprus,  and  are  no  doubt 
of  local  manufacture.  Rut  they  differ  conspicuously 
from  vases  of  the  Athenian  class  in  the  adaption  of  the 
patterns.  Instead  of  the  graceful  lines  of  spirals  for 
instance  which  may  be  seen  on  the  Curium  vase,  we 
find  on  the  Cypriote  pottery  almost  innumerable 
patterns  of  concentric  circles  disposed  in  rows,  inter- 


334  CYPRUS.  [CHAP,  XI. 

secting  each  other  and  grouped  in  many  ways.  But 
the  beauty  of  the  spiral  is  lost,  and  in  its  place  we 
have  an  entirely  mechanical  pattern,  which  has  not 
arisen  out  of  any  process  of  workmanship,  such  as 
weaving  or  metal  working,  and  is  therefore  not  a 
primary  pattern.  It  is  rather  a  debasement  of  the 
spiral,  and  as  such  may  be  of  a  comparatively  later 
date  in  the  development  of  the  art  of  potter}-. 

From  the  frequency  with  which  the  same  system  of 
decoration  which  occurs  on  the  Curium  vase  is  found 
on  early  Greek  pottery  on  the  one  hand,  and  on  the 
other  hand  on  objects  of  bronze  found  in  Italy  and 
north  of  the  Alps,  it  has  been  argued  that  it  had  been 
brought  into  the  peninsulas  of  Italy  and  Greece  from 
the  north  of  Europe.  From  the  fact  which  appears 
from  comparative  philology,  that  the  Aryan  races  were 
acquainted  before  their  separation  with  the  processes 
of  weaving  and  metal  working,  and  from  the  extreme 
probability  of  the  patterns  in  question  having  been 
evolved  from  these  processes,  it  is  argued  that  the  Aryans 
had  brought  this  system  of  decoration  with  them  in 
their  descent  over  the  Alps  and  Balkans,  down  into 
Italy  and  Greece,  and  accordingly  the  system  of  decora- 
tioTi  has  been  named  "Indo-European"  by  Professor 
Conze.  This  theory  has  been  recently  examined  very 
carefully  by  Helbig,  and  the  result  of  his  enquiry  is 
given  in  the  "  Annali  dell'  Institute  di  Correspondenza 
Archeologica,"  1^75,  p.  221. 

Room  F.  is  a  little  smaller  than  the  other  three,  and 
had  a  doorway  on  its  western  wall,  which  led  into  a 
long  narrow  passage  also  hewn  in  the  rock,  the  ter- 
mination of  which  it  was  impossible  for  me  to  find. 
The  foul  air  existing  within  ;  its  narrowness,  preventing 
a  person  either  from  standing  or  turning  himself; 
together  with  the  earth  which  has  filtered  through  its 
porous  roof,  render  its  thorough  examination  a  matter  ol 


CHAP.  XL] 


TREASURE     CHAMBER. 


335 


utter  impossibility.  Nevertheless  I  had  explored  it  for 
30  feet,  when  the  lights  went  out,  and  could  not  be  re- 
lighted. The  heat  was  great  and  very  oppressive  ;  crab- 
like,  we  crawled  back,  happy  to  have  escaped  suffocation. 
In  that  tunnel  at  different  distances  I  found  seven  bronze 
caldrons.  Four  were  broken,  I  fear  by  the  digger  who 
preceded  me,  though  he  asserts  that  they  were  already 
in  that  condition  ;  the  other  three  I  brought  out. 
They  all  bear  traces  of  having  been  placed  on  the  fire, 
and  are  much  oxidised. 

The  objects  discovered  in  Room  F  were  in  bronze, 
copper,  or  iron,  such  as  can- 
delabra of  different  shapes, 
from  seven  inches  to  four 
feet  high.  One  of  them  is 
ornamented  with  a  nude 
female  figure  holding  a  cone 
over  her  head,  and  for  this 
reason,  probably,  a  represen- 
tation of  Venus  ;  there  were 
found  also  lamps,  large 
bowls,  having  handles  in  the 
shape  of  lotus  flowers  ;  one 
large  bowl,  seventeen  inches 
in  diameter,  with  embossed 

work  in  an  Egyptian  style,  resembling  that  of  the  gold 
bowl  previously  described  ;  a  horse  bit,  a  female  sandal, 
spear  heads,  vases,  cups,  buttons,  mirrors,  anklets, 
bracelets,  armlets,  an  iron  dagger,  with  part  of  its 
ivory  handle,  and  a  series  of  bronze  ornaments  from  an 
iron  chair  or  throne  which  had  collapsed  into  a  heap. 
These  ornaments  consist  of  heads  of  bulls  with  ena- 
melled eyes,  large  lions'  heads,  and  many  other  objects, 
such  as  legs  of  antelopes,  and  lions'  claws  ;  also  a 
short  bronze  object  ending  in  three  heads  of  bulls,  with 
jewels  and  pastes  in  the  eyes  and  foreheads  (which 


336 


CYPRUS. 


[CHAP.  XI. 


may   have   been    a    sceptre),    quadrupeds,   birds,   tools, 
maces,  weights,  statuettes,  fibulae,  &c. 

Having  carefully  ascertained  that  there  was  nothing 


more  to  be  found  in  these  chambers,  I  endeavoured,  by 
boring  at  different  places,  to  find  the  continuation  of  the 
tunnel  AA,  but  without  success.  At  twentv-two  feet 


CHAP   XL] 


TREASURE    OF    CURIUM. 


337 


below  tne  surface  I  struck  the  solid  rock  in  which 
the  tunnel  is  excavated.  Further  northward  had  stood 
a  large  number  of  oblong  buildings,  the  foundations 
of  which  are  still  visible  here  and  there  through  the 
mass  of  overlying  stones.  In  general  they  are  very 


Large  bronze  I'.owl  engraved. 

small,  the  largest  measuring  only  33  feet  in  length   by 
27  in  width. 

The  last  ruin  on  the  north  of  Curium,  outside  its 
walls  (and,  I  may  add,  the  only  one  which  has  pre- 
served something  of  its  former  shape),  is  that  of  the 
Hippodrome.  Parts  of  its  walls  are  still  standing.  The 
greatest  length  is  1296  feet  by  84  in  width.  The  height 


33$  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  XI. 

of  the  remaining  walls  is  unequal  at  some  places,  being 
twenty-one  feet  and  at  others  scarcely  eight.  There  are 
no  traces  of  chariot  carccrcs,  and  probably  there  never 
were  any.  Compared  with  the  Hippodrome  of  Olympia, 
this  one  is  insignificant,  being  scarcely  a  fourth  of  its 
length.  No  architectural  remains  or  fragments  of 
statues  were  to  be  seen  among  the  ruins  which  cover 
the  area.  Outside  the  Hippodrome  the  ground  is  over- 
grown with  bushes  of  carob,  showing  that  in  ancient 
times  it  was  thickly  wooded. 

More  than  once,  in  visiting  the  ruins  of  Curium,  I 
ran  the  risk  of  falling  into  narrow  dark  pits,  made 
almost  invisible  by  the  bushes  grown  over  them. 
Desirous  to  know  their  depth,  I  threw  in  some  stones, 
but  no  sound  reverberated  ;  they  seemed  bottomless. 
\Yith  the  help  of  a  short  ladder,  at  one  extremity  ot 
which  two  strong  ropes  were  firmly  tied,  one  of  my 
diggers,  bolder  than  the  rest,  offered,  in  the  hope  of  a 
reward,  to  be  lowered  into  one  of  them.  The  ladder 
was  introduced  into  the  mouth  of  the  pit,  the  man 
holding  fast  to  it,  while  four  men  gradually  slackened 
the  ropes  until  he  reached  the  bottom.  After  all  it  was 
not  such  an  abyss,  being  only  about  forty  feet  deep. 
Some  bushes  which  had  grown  up  inside,  together  with 
the  quantity  of  earth  washed  in  by  the  rain,  had 
deadened  the  sound  of  the  stones.  I  confess  it  required 
a  certain  amount  of  courage  to  venture  for  the  first 
time  into  one  of  these  pits,  the  favourite  resort  ot 
asps  and  other  snakes,  in  which  the  site  of  Curium 
abounds. 

Afterwards  I  descended  in  like  manner  into  several  of 
them,  and  measured  one  which  seemed  to  be  among  the 
largest.  It  gave  the  following  dimensions  :  depth  37 
feet,  greatest  width  14  feet  ;  the  bottom  was  rounded 
something  like  that  of  an  amphora,  and  scooped  into 
the  solid  rock,  which  afterwards  was  coated  with  a 


PLATE     XXX. 


liRONZE    OBJECTS    FROM    CURIUM. 


CHAP.  XL]  EXPLORATION    OF    CHAMBER.  341 

kind  of  cement  like  pitch.  I  came  to  the  conclusion, 
after  having  in  this  way  visited  several  of  them,  that 
they  might  have  been  cisterns.  Yet  if  so,  where  did 
the  water  come  from  to  fill  them  ?  The  occasional  rain, 
which  in  Cyprus  seldom  falls  more  than  two  or  three 
times  a  year,  would  have  been  too  uncertain  a  source 
of  supply,  and  also  insufficient  to  fill  such  depths. 
They  may  have  been  used  as  granaries. 

I  could  find  no  traces  of  any  aqueduct  in  the  city,  but 
searching  outside  the  walls,  a  few  yards  west  of  the 
Hippodrome,  I  found  the  remains  of  an  ancient  aqueduct 
appearing  scarcely  two  feet  above  the  ground.  Exca- 
vating southward  in  a  direct  line  with  the  city,  I  met 
with  its  continuation  within  the  walls.  This  aqueduct 
was  built  in  a  very  economical  manner.  The  rock, 
whenever  found  at  the  desired  elevation,  was  hollowed 
seven  inches  deep,  and  eleven  inches  wide,  so  as  to 
allow  the  passage  of  a  certain  volume  of  water  ;  and 
when  the  rock  was  wanting,  a  few  blocks  of  stone  were 
sunk,  scooped  out,  and  connected  with  the  others  ;  thus 
the  aqueduct  was  continued  for  miles  with  little 
expense,  and  fully  answered  the  purpose  for  which  it 
was  built.  It  will  be  seen  also  that  we  have  here  a 
characteristic  example  of  the  way  in  which  the  Greeks 
adapted  their  system  of  water  conduits  to  the  physical 
formation  of  the  districts,  cutting  tunnels  and  canals 
rather  than  bridging  over  valleys,  as  did  the  Romans. 
It  is  in  consequence  of  this  that  so  few  remains  of 
ancient  Greek  aqueducts  are  now  known.  The  Greeks 
seem  to  have  followed  the  analogy  of  Nature,  in  which, 
in  their  own  country,  they  saw  the  water  collected  on 
the  hills,  passing  for  miles  along  subterranean  courses, 
and  issuing  fresh  and  cool  at  the  coast.  In  exploring 
it  beyond  the  Hippodrome,  the  ground  being  level,  the 
conduit  can  yet  be  seen  just  above  the  surface  for  an 
uninterrupted  distance  of  210  yards  :  then  it  disappears, 


342  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  XI. 

to    reappear  when   the   ground   is   on    a   level   with    the 
Hippodrome."' 

Following  the  traces  of  the  aqueduct  north  of 
Curium,  always  among  very  thick  hushes  from  which 
start  flocks  of  partridges  and  francolins,  I  reached  the 
ruins  of  the  temple  of  Apollo  Hylates,  this  locality 
being  called  at  the  present  day  by  the;  inhabitants  of 


*  Mr.  .Murray,  the  writer  of  the  classical  port  Ton  of  the  article 
"  Aqueduct."  in  the  cjth  Edition  of  the  "  Encyclopaedia  Pritannica," 
describes  what  is  known  of  the  ancient  Greek  systems  of  water  supply, 
of  which  the  most  celebrated  was  that  of  Samos.  constructed  while 
Polycrates  was  tyrant  of  that  island,  the  engineer  being  Eupalinos,  who 
had  previously  obtained  some  fame  for  his  water  works  at  Megara. 
carried  out  about  i;.c.  625.  At  Samos  the  difficulty  lay  in  a  hill  which 
rose  between  the  town  and  the  water  source.  Through,  this  hill  Eupa- 
linos cut  a  tunnel  8  feet  broad.  8  feet  high,  and  4200  feet  long,  and 
built  within  this  tunnel  a  channel  3  feet  broad  and  11  inches  deep. 
The  water  was  all  the  way  open  to  the  air,  and  was  received  at  the  lower 
end  by  a  conduit  of  masonry  and  thence  spread  througli  the  town.  In 
Athens,  under  the  rule  of  Pisistratus  (u.c.  560).  a  similarly  extensive, 
but  less  difficult  series  of  works  was  completed  to  bring  water  from  the 
hills  Hymettus.  Pentelicus,  and  Parnes.  Pentelicus  supplied  a  conduit 
which  can  still  be  traced  from  the  modern  village  of  Chalandri  by  the 
air  shafts  built  several  feet  above  the  ground,  and  at  a  distance  apart  of 
fifty  or  sixty  yards.  The  diameter  of  these  shafts  is  four  to  five  feet, 
and  the  number  of  them  still  preserved  is  about  fifty.  Some  of  these 
conduits  continue  to  supplv  Athens  to  this  day.  and  are  described  as 
marvels  of  enterprise  and  skill.  (See  E.  C'urtius.  "  Ueber  die  Wasser- 
bauten  der  lleilenen."  in  the  Archajol.  Zcitung.  1847.  page  TO.)  In 
Sicily  the  works  by  which  Empedocles,  it  is  sa-id.  brought  the  water  into 
the  town  of  Selinus  are  no  longer  visible,  but  it  is  probable  that,  like 
those  of  Syracuse,  they  consisted  chiefly  of  tunnels  an.d  pipes  laid  under 
ground.  The  system  of  conduits  in  Syracuse,  which  Thucydides  says 
(x.  JOG)  the  Athenians  partly  destroyed  in  the  Sicilian  expedition,  still 
supplies  the  town  with  an  abundance  of  drinkable  water.  An  example 
ot  what  appears  to  have  been  the  earliest  form  ot  aqueduct's  in  (ireece 
has  been  discovered  in  the  island  of  C'os  beside  the  fountain 
llurinna  on  Mount  (. )romedon.  It  consists  of  a  bell-shaped  chamber 
built  underground  in  the  hill  side  to  receive  the  water  of  the  spring  and 
keep  it  cool.  A  shaft,  rising  from  the  top  of  the  chamber,  supplies 
fresh  air. 


CHAP.  XI.]  ANCIENT    AQUEDUCT.  343 

the  neighbouring  villages  Apellon.  Its  ancient  name 
was  Kyle,  and  it  was  from  this  that  the  epithet  Hylates 
was  derived.  The  town  itself,  some  debris  of  which  are 
seen  a  little  east  of  the  temple,  appears  to  have  been 
insignificant. 

The  mass  of  stones  on  the  ground  shows  that  the 
temple  had  been  a  magnificent  edifice.  It  probably  faced 
the  sea,  from  which  it  was  only  a  thousand  yards  distant, 
and  was  entirely  surrounded  by  a  forest.  This  temple 
was  seventy-nine  feet  in  length,  and  thirty-two  in  width. 
Its  columns,  in  white  marble  and  bluish  granite,  are 
lying  scattered  in  every  direction.  They  are  of  different 
dimensions.  The  largest  measure  three  feet  two  inches 
in  diameter  ;  the  next  in  size  two  feet ;  and  the  smallest 
sixteen  inches.  Portions  of  the  latter  stand  on  their 
bases.  This  spot  is  \vell  worthy  of  systematic  explora- 
tion, but  that  could  not  be  accomplished  without  ample 
funds.  I  dug  along  the  eastern  foundations  for  several 
weeks,  and  laid  bare  a  part  of  the  pavement,  but  met 
with  no  sculptured  remains,  except  a  few  terra-cotta 
warriors  with  helmet  and  shield,  and  the  fragments  of  a 
very  large  earthenware  jar  inscribed  in  Greek  letters 
with  a  dedication  to  Apollo  Hylates.  The  latter  were 
found  beneath  the  stone  pavement  of  the  temple. 
Within  the  area  of  the  temple  I  found  also  several 
mutilated  Greek  inscriptions,  on  one  of  which  occurs 
the  name  of  Ptolemy  Philadelphus  and  Cleopatra, 
Near  the  temple  are  the  ruins  of  a  rectangular  building 
which  may  have  been  the  abode  of  the  priests  of 
Apollo. 

At  this  point  the  view  from  the  west  is  imposing 
in  the  extreme.  Rising  abruptly  from  the  sea  is  the 
promontory,  I  believe,  spoken  of  by  Strabo,  from 
whence,  he  says,  those  who  touched  the  altar  of 
Apollo  with  their  hands  were  precipitated  into  the  sea. 
What  meaning  may  have  been  behind  this  we  do  not 


CYPRUS. 


[CHAP.    XI 


know.  Engel  (ii.  p.  667)  thinks  it  must  have  been  as 
an  act  of  atonement  for  bloodshed  that  persons  were 
hurled  from  the  rock.  He  points  out  that  the  worship 


of  Apollo  here  was  particularly  that  of  a  "purifying" 
god,  and  remarks  also  that  Cephalos,  who  was  the  first 
to  leap  from  the  Leucadian  rock  to  purify  himself  from 


the  blood  of  Procris,  was  connected  with  the  mythology 
of  Cyprus. 

In  a  ravine  south-east  of  these  rums  I  came  upon  a 
pit  lull  of  broken  statues,  and  in  its  vicinity  a  little 
mound  containing  a  great  mass  of  hands,  feet;  and 


CHAP.  XL]          TEMPLE    OF    APOLLO    HYLATES. 


345 


legs,  belonging  to  the  same  ;  it  is  probable  that  these 
statues  had  come  from  the  temple  of  Apollo.  These 
fragments  were  all  in  calcareous  stone,  and  bore 
evidence  of  having  been  purposely  destroyed.  Among 
them  were  two  white  marble  statuettes  about  two  feet 
high  and  a  small  one  of 
bronze  7^  inches  high, 
probably  representing 
Apollo,  of  fine  Greek 
workmanship.  On  some 
bases  of  statuettes  in 
calcareous  stone  found 
in  the  mound  mention- 
ed before,  the  name  of 
Apollo  is  inscribed  in 
Cypriote  characters. 
In  another  locality, 
always  in  the  ravine 
above  mentioned  but 
farther  west,  I  dis- 
covered some  twentv- 
five  statuettes  in 
careous  stone, 
senting  a  youth  seated 
a  f  t  e  r  the  oriental 
fashion,  and  having  a 
number  of  amulets  a- 
round  his  neck.  On 
the  base  of  some  of 

them  is  also  inscribed  the  name  of  Apollo  in  Cypriote 
characters.  I  may  remark  here  that  statuettes  identi- 
cal with  these  have  been  found  everywhere  in  the 
island,  at  Golgoi,  Dali,  Amathus,  Curium,  Carpass, 
etc.,  etc. 

The  harvest  season  having  commenced,  I  was  obliged 
to  let  my  men   return   to  their  homes,  and  give   up  the 


cal- 

repre- 


Bronzc   Figure. 


346 


CYPRUS. 


[CHAP.  XI 


explorations.  I  therefore  prepared  to  return  to  Larnaca. 
Instead,  however,  of  taking  the  regular  route  to  Limas- 
sol,  I  resolved  to  keep  to  the  coast,  and  go  around  the 
promontory  of  Curias.  The  country  from  Curium  to  the 
Cape  is  an  open  and  very  fertile  plain  ;  yet  on  account 
of  the  torrents  from  the  mountains  north  of  Episkopi, 
which  in  winter  bring-  down  and  cover  the  fields  with 

roots,  stones,  and  dead  trees, 
the  riding  is  rendered  difficult 
and  slow,  and  I  spent  more 
than  two  hours  in  reaching  the 
Cape.  On  the  way,  I  passed 
an  old  Greek  church,  dedicated 
to  St.  George  who  has  now  as 
many  shrines  in  Cyprus  as 
Apollo  formerly  had  temples. 
It  had  some  large  capitals  of 
columns  taken  from  Curium, 
and  some  early  Christian  mor- 
tuary cippi.  East  of  this 
church,  some  ten  minutes'  ride, 
is  a  little  village  of  about  fifty 
houses, all  stone-built,  inhabited 
exclusively  by  Christians,  called 
Acrotiri.  Further  east  of  this 
village  arise  the  commanding 
ruins  of  a  large  Byzantine 
Greek  convent,  with  a  church 
in  a  tolerably  good  condition,  dedicated  to  Aghios 
Nicholas.  This  edifice,  made  of  square  blocks  of  lime- 
stone, is  oblong,  two  stories  high,  and  is  erected  in  the 
centre  of  a  square,  measuring  ^85  yards  each  way,  for- 
merly surrounded  by  a  thick  hedge  of  box-wood.  On 
the  lintel  of  a  doorway  cut  in  the  eastern  wall,  to  the 
right  of  the  great  entrance,  are  sculptured  five  shields, 
the  centre  one  having  the  arms  of  the  Lusignan  kings. 


CHAP.  XL] 


GREEK    CONVENT. 


347 


The  material  used  in  the  decoration,  if  not  in  the  building 
of  this  convent,  and  the  many  marble  columns  strewn 
over  the  ground,  are  all  spoils  from  Curium.  Xearing 
Cape  Curias  I  passed  some  small  ruins,  where  I  observed 
traces  of  a  few  ancient 
habitations  and  several 
tombs,  which  appeared  to 
me  of  great  antiquity. 

The  guide  I  took  from 
Acrotiri  insisted  that  this 
place  is  called  Curi,  and 
that  a  few  years  ago  a 
French  "  Milordo  "  came 
expressly  from  Limassol 
to  visit  it,  and  employed 
several  of  his  fellow  towns- 
men of  Acrotiri  to  dig  at 
this  place  ;  in  fact  the 
ground  bears  evident  traces  of  having  been  but  recently 
disturbed. 

I    alighted    from    my    mule,    and    had    some    tombs 
examined,  and  from  the  pottery 
extracted  I   am   sure   that    they 
are   coeval   with    the    tombs    at 
Curium. 

Passing  the  Cape,  my  mule 
was  startled  by  the  sudden  flight 
from  a  bush,  of  what  appeared 
to  me  to  be  a  cat;  and  the  guide 
assured  me,  that  both  at  the 
Cape,  and  near  to  Acrotiri,  there 
are  wild  cats,  which  hunt  and 
destroy  the  asps  abounding  there.  I  recollected  to 
have  read  somewhere,  perhaps  in  Dapper,  that  the 
"  Caloyers  "  of  the  convent  of  Acrotiri  raised  and 
trained  a  peculiar  breed  of  cats,  which  they  imported 


348  CYPRUS.  [CHAP.  XI. 

from  Constantinople,  to  kill  the  asps  in  their  neigh- 
bourhood, and  that  at  the  tolling  of  a  particular 
bell  in  the  convent,  these  cats  would  come  in  to  be  fed 
twice  a  day,  and  then  return  to  their  work  of  destruction. 
I  suppose  that  it  is  in  reference  to  these  cats  that  the 
ancient  promontory  of  Curias  is  now  known  as  Cape 
Gatto,  or  Delle  Gatte. 

After  an  absence  of  nearly  six  months  I  arrived  once 
more  in  Larnaca,  and  very  glad  was  I  to  enjoy  again 
the  endearments  of  home.  Unfortunately  I  found  my 
wife  very  much  depressed  and  out  of  health.  The 
lonely  life  she  had  led  for  so  many  years,  with  the 
exception  of  an  occasional  visit  to  Europe,  and  a 
few  months  in  America,  began  to  show  its  effects  on 
her  constitution,  and  I  felt  that  it  was  my  duty  to 
bring  my  explorations  to  a  close.  Even  had  this  not 
been  the  case,  the  work  of  exploring  which  I  had 
undertaken  on  my  return  from  the  United  States  in 
1873,  was  to  have  been  carried  on  at  the  instance  of 
the  Trustees  of  the  New  York  Museum,  but  owing 
to  the  financial  crisis  which  followed  in  that  city,  I 
had  to  proceed  at  my  own  expense,  and  this  had 
absorbed  almost  all  my  private  means.  However,  I  con- 
sidered myself  very  fortunate  in  having  been  able  so 
successfully  to  complete  my  explorations  with  the  re- 
sources I  possessed. 

The  accidental  death  of  Dr.  Siegismund,  a  few  months 
previous,  while  visiting  one  of  the  tombs  I  had  ex- 
cavated at  Amathus,  affected  my  wife  very  seriously, 
and  she  was  ever  after  in  dread  lest  I  should  suffer  a 
similar  fate.  It  required  no  small  courage  and  devotion 
for  one  brought  up  in  the  refinements  and  luxuries  of  a 
great  city,  to  pass  more  than  ten  years  amid  the  arid  life 
of  a  small  oriental  town,  where,  with  the  exception  of 
one  or  two  ladies  of  the  Consular  corps,  which  was 
continually  being  changed,  there  was  neither  society  nor 


CHAP.  XL]  DEPARTURE    FROM    CYPRUS. 

recreation.  The  excitement  of  my  discoveries  was  her 
sole  diversion,  and  though  the  cares  and  solicitudes  of 
a  mother  prevented  her  from  following  me  to  the  more 
distant  scenes  of  my  excavations,  yet  in  many  ways 
more  quiet  and  unpretending'  she  afforded  me  very 
valuable  assistance.  I  saw  plainly  that  she  longed  to 
revisit  her  native  land,  and  great  therefore  was  her 
delight  when  she  heard  of  my  intention  to  leave  Cyprus 
soon,  for  ever,  and  return  to  America.  In  accordance 
with  this  resolve  I  packed  up  all  my  recent  discoveries 
and  shipped  them  direct  to  the  New  York  Museum,  with 
the  exception  of  the  gold  objects  found  at  Curium,  which 
I  decided  were  too  valuable  to  be  risked  under  any  but 
our  immediate  care. 

Having  obtained  a  six  months'  leave  of  absence  from 
the  American  Government,  we  took  our  last  walk  in 
the  environs  of  Larnaca,  where  the  Marina  appears  to 
its  best  advantage.  Passing  the  Salines,  the  site  of 
my  first  excavations,  and  the  ruins  of  Phaneromene  on 
our  right,  we  were  soon  in  the  fields,  which  were  yet 
in  all  their  vernal  glory.  Pink  and  white  anemones, 
dark  blue  irises,  intensely  scarlet  poppies,  golden  mar- 
guerites, and  a  thousand  lovely  blossoms,  of  which  I  do 
not  even  know  the  names,  embroidered  the  plains  with 
the  most  brilliant  colours  imaginable.  We  crushed  the 
wild  thyme  and  mignonette  at  every  step,  and  yet  they 
seemed  to  offer  us  their  incense  at  parting.  A  torrid 
sun  would  soon  leave  all  a  dreary  waste.  Mount  Santa 
Croce  seemed  to  follow  us  through  all  our  walk,  ever 
changing  in  aspect,  now  cool  and  brown  as  clouds 
floated  over  it,  now  glowing  crimson  in  the  setting  sun. 

The  lighted  minarets  of  Larnaca  and  the  Marina 
shone  in  the  distance,  and  as  we  neared  the  latter  we 
heard  the  voice  of  the  Mna::ln  calling  the  faithful  to 
prayer.  As  we  entered  our  own  spacious  garden,  which 
had  been  reclaimed  from  the  sea-shore,  with  its  lovely 


350 


CYPRUS. 


[CHAP.  XI 


roses  such  as  bloom  only  in  Cyprus,  its  vine-covered 
walls,  and  the  pretty  conceits  with  which  my  wife's 
fancy  had  embellished  it,  a  slight  shade  of  regret  passed 
over  us,  as  we  thought  how  soon  neglect  might  turn 
the  spot,  then  the  admiration  of  visitors,  once  more  into 
an  unsightly  waste, 

An  extensive  terrace  overlooked  the  garden,  and  as 
we  walked  on  it  in  the  moonlight  on  that  our  last 
evening,  a  magical  charm  seemed  to  have  been  thrown 
on  the  garden  and  on  the  rippling  gleaming  waves  of 
the  Mediterranean,  so  that  while  gazing  on  the  scene 
we  almost  forgot  the  dark  side  of  life  in  Cyprus,  and  a 
sense  of  tenderness  stole  into  our  hearts  for  the  land  we 
were  leaving  on  the  morrow. 


APPENDICES. 


THE    RINGS    AND    GEMS    IN    THE 
TREASURE     OF     CURIUM. 

BY    C.  W.    KING.    M.A. 


TREASURE     OF    CURIUM. 

THE  Greek  islands  always  appear  as  the  cradle  of  the  art 
of  gem-engraving,  in  the  very  scanty  notices  of  the  history  of 
that  art  preserved  to  us  by  ancient  writers.  The  earliest  of 
all  engravers  mentioned  by  name  is  Mnesarchus,  more  known 
in  after  times  as  father  of  Pythagoras,  who,  expelled  by  the 
Athenians  along  with  his  countrymen  from  one  of  the  islands 
(probably  Lemnos)*  settled  with  them  at  Samos,  some  time 
before  B.C.  570,  where  (as  Apuleiust  says)  "  he  sought  for  fame 
rather  than  riches  by  engraving  gems  in  the  most  skilful 
manner."  In  the  same  island  Theodorus,  half  a  century  later, 
immortalised  his  name  by  the  far-famed  signet  of  Polycrates, 
so  prized  by  the  owner  as  to  be  deemed  an  equivalent  for  all 
the  other  gifts  of  over-kind  Fortune. £  And  by  a  remarkable 
coincidence,  the  only  record  remaining  of  the  selling-price  of 
an  intaglio  in  ancient  times  is  connected  with  Cyprus,  for 
Pliny  $  relates  that  in  the  century  following  the  date  of 
Theodorus,  the  celebrated  musician  Ismenias  was  so  taken 
with  the  description  of  an  emerald  engraved  with  an  Amymonc 
then  on  sale  in  Cyprus,  that  he  sent  to  buy  it  at  the  price 
named  (six  pieces  of  gold,  a  large  sum  for  those  frugal  days  of 
Greece^  and  complained  that  the  gem  was  insulted  when  its 
price  had  been  beaten  down  to  four ;  and  truly,  if  this 
Amymone  equalled  in  artistic  value  some  of  the  glyptic  works 
in  the  collection  now  to  be  described.  ever\"  man  ot  taste 
will  sympathise  in  tin:  whimsical  remonstrance  of  the  ancient 


354  APPENDIX. 

dilettante.  In  his  time,  on  the  mainland  of  Greece,  the 
signet-rings  of  the  highest  class  (as  appears  from  Euripides' 
allusions)*  were  made  entirely  of  gold,  and  passages  of 
Aristophanes  and  Xenophon  clearly  show  that  in  general  they 
were  of  base  metal,  of  trifling  value,  not  works  of  art  but 
articles  of  household  use.t  Atteius  Capito,  the  noted  antiquary 
of  the  Augustan  age,  makes  the  same  general  remark  for 
Italy,  that  the  earliest  signets  were  cut  in  the  metal  of  the 
ring,  whether  that  were  gold  or  iron,  $  And  in  Southern 
Italy,  where,  at  a  later  period,  gem  engraving  so  wonderfully 
flourished,  the  cemeteries  of  the  first  colonists  from  Greece 
(Cumae  for  example)  yield  nothing  in  this  way  to  explorers 
except  poorly  executed  signet-rings  of  silver.  The  same 
conclusion  may  be  confidently  deduced  from  the  appearance 
of  the  coinage  of  different  localities,  so  dissimilar  are  both 
manner  and  technical  execution  of  the  dies  cut  by  artists 
accustomed  to  work  in  the  ''hard  stones,"  and  by  those  who 
have  had  during  all  their  career  only  to  deal  with  metal.  § 

The  discovery  of  the  Treasure  of  Curium  is  a  true  revela- 
tion of  the  history  of  the  Glyptic  Art,  in  its  rise  and 
progress  from  the  earliest  times  down  to  the  beginning  of  the 
fifth  century  before  our  era  ;  and  an  attempt  has  been  made 
in  the  following  catalogue  so  to  classify  the  various  families  of 
gems  it  contains  as  to  illustrate  their  connection  with  each 
other,  and  trace  their  development  into  complete  perfection — 
a  state,  fortunately  for  us.  just  attained  when  the  whole 
accumulation  of  the  donaria  of  many  generations  was  con- 
signed in  hurried  alarm  to  its  long  hiding-place. 

ASSYRIAN    ART. 

Evidences  of  Assyrian  domination  were  naturally  to  be 
looked  for  in  an  island  whose  kings  are  recorded  as  doing 
homage  to  Assurbanipal,  upon  his  expedition  to  Egypt,  B.C. 
620.  Of  one  of  those  very  kings.  Eteandros  of  Paphos.  the 

*  Speaking  of  Agamemnon's  and  Ph;cdra's  signets. 

+  Heing  used  for  securing  the  receptacles  of  scores,  before  locks  u  ere 
invented.  They  could  be  bought  for  half  a  drachma  ;  sc'-.'  Thesmopho- 
riaxusa-.  425  ;  Anabasis,  iv.  7. 

+   '  >uoted  by  Macrobius,  Sat.  vii.  13. 

\  Compare  the  coins  struck  in  Cilicia  under  the  Persian  domination,  and 
the  contemporary  mintages  of  the  mainland  of  Greece. 


TREASURE    OF    CURIUM.  355 

votive  bracelets  are  the  most  valuable  historical  monument 
in  the  Treasure — if  they  do  not  surpass  in  interest  any  former 
discovery  of  the  kind.  Together  with  them  were  deposited 
three  cylinders,  of  high  importance  on  account  of  their  early 
date  and  excellent  workmanship  :  one  of  them  designating 
itself  the  signet  "  of  the  servant  of  Xarani-Sin,"  and  which 
it  is  no  very  great  straining  of  probabilities  to  regard  as  the 
offering  of  some  Assyrian  official  stationed  in  the  island,  as 
''  Resident"  at  the  court  of  some  tributary  prince.  If  the  more 
remote  Crete  was  subject  to  the  "  Medes"  in  the  joth  Olympiad 
(B.C.  750),  when,  according  to  Pliny,*  Dipoenus  and  Scyllis 
emigrated  thence  and  brought  the  art  of  sculpturing  stone 
into  Sicyon — Cyprus,  lying  just  off  the  coast  of  Asia,  must 
naturally  have  been  held  yet  more  firmly  in  the  grasp  of  the 
great  Assyrian  conqueror.  In  addition  to  the  three  cylinders 
found  amongst  the  donaria,  many  others  were  dug  up  in  the 
debris  of  the  Temple,  and  amongst  the  other  ruins  of  Curium. 
These  are  all  of  small  size  (about  an  inch  long)  and  of  the 
commonest  workmanship,  in  the  cheapest  material,  green 
serpentine,  the  evident  signets  of  plebeians.  The  only  excep- 
tions are  one  of  superior  finish  in  black  haematite,  and 
another  yet  smaller  in  fine  sard,  engraved  with  a  man  stand- 
ing, with  arms  crossed  on  his  breast;  before  whom  sits  a 
gryphon  looking  up  at  him,  backed  by  a  god,  under  whom 
reclines  an  antelope.  Very  remarkable  for  material  is  a  third 
in  dark  blue  glass  ;  but  whatever  design  it  may  original!}'  have 
borne,  is  now  entirely  effaced  by  the  corrosion  of  its  surface. 
It  is  possible  that  these  scattered  cylinders  were  not  in  wear 
at  the  time  of  the  destruction  of  the  city,  but  had  been 
deposited,  as  memorials,  in  the  foundations  of  public  build- 
ings at  the  time  of  their  erection.  Such  was  undoubtedly  the 
Assyrian  custom  ;  for,  not  to  speak  of  isolated  cases,  M.  Place 
(Botta's  successor  in  the  explorations  of  Xineveh)  found  in 
one  part  of  the  city  wall,  a  layer  of  ';  many  thousand  " 
cylinders,  laid  there  as  the  building  first  rose  to  the  level  of 
the  platform  :  on  the  same  principle  as  we  now  deposit  the 
current  coins  of  the  realm  upon  similar  occasions. 

*   Hist.  Nat.  xxxvi.  4. 


356  APPENDIX. 

EGYPTIAN    AND    PHOENICIAN    WORKS. 

"Whenever  Homer  has  occasion  to  mention  any  article  of 
ornament  or  elegance,  he  invariably  assigns  its  authorship 
either  to  some  god,  or  else  to  the  Sidonians,  which  probably 
meant  the  same  thing.  It  is  a  Phoenician  trader  who  offers 
for  sale  to  the  Queen  of  Syra  a  necklet  of  gold,  hung  at 
intervals  with  amber  pendants.  Sidonian  women  stain  ivory 
carvings  purple  for  the  decoration  of  household  furniture  and 
of  horse  trappings  :  the  six-gallon  crater,  offered  by  Achilles 
for  a  prize  at  the  funeral  games,  was  without  its  equal  in  the 
world,  "because  it  was  wrought  by  Sidonian  craftsmen,  and 
carried  by  Tynan  mariners  to  King  Thoas  of  Lemnos  :  "  and 
the  elaborate  corselet  of  Agamemnon,  damascened  with  gold, 
tin.  and  niello — the  gift  of  Cinyras  of  Paphos.  could  only  have 
been  produced  by  a  Phoenician  armourer.*"  The  bronze  dishes 
found  in  such  abundance  in  the  palace  cellars  at  Nineveh, 
with  their  curious  ornamentation  by  incised  lines,  are  now 
known  to  be  importations  from  Phoenicia  :  equally  so  were  the 
magnificent  silver  paterae  of  the  Temple  of  Curium,  with  their 
impartial  mixture  of  Assyrian  and  Egyptian  types.  For  the 
Phoenicians,  unequalled  as  mechanics,  had  no  national  style  of 
their  own  :  they  were  a  race  totally  devoid  of  original  genius, 
taking  for  models  the  sculptures  of  Assyria  or  of  Egypt,  ac- 
cording as  either  empire  chanced  to  include  their  narrow  strip 
of  seaboard  within  its  own  limits.  But  they  have  the  merit 
of  being  the  fathers  of  European  gem-engraving,  for  they 
imported  their  scarabati  as  articles  of  trade  in  their  stock  of 
trinkets,  wherever  they  carried  their  commerce — a  fact  of 
which  the  deposits  at  Tharros  in  Sardinia,  equally  with  the 
donaria  at  Curium,  furnish  abundant  proof.  The  Phoenicians 
had  the  best  of  reasons  for  their  predilection  for  the  scaralueus 
form  over  that  of  the  cylinder  or  cone  universally  prevalent 
with  their  first  instructors  in  the  art  of  engraving  on  the 
"  hard  stones  ;  "  for  the  insect  was  the  special  symbol  of 
Ptha.  "  the  great  artificer,"  their  own  Mulciber.  "  mighty 
king,"  sire  of  their  national  protectors,  the  Cabin',  "great 
ones."  those  waster  masons  whose  worship  they  spread  wherever 
they  planted  colonies. 

It  mav   be  asked  with   good  reason  whv  so  manv  scaraba^i 


TREASURE    OF    CURIUM.  357 

among  the  gems  here  catalogued  bearing  regular  Egyptian 
types,  should  be  assigned  to  Phoenician  rather  than  to 
Egyptian  artists ;  and  what  are  the  tests  employed  for  dis- 
tinguishing the  two  manufactures  ?  The  distinction  rests 
mainly  upon  two  observations — of  material,  and  of  execution. 
Scarabaei,  found  under  circumstances  that  leave  no  doubt  as  to 
their  native  origin,  as  on  the  fingers  and  in  the  mummy  cases 
of  deceased  Egyptians,  are  generally  cut  with  the  graver  in 
soft  stone  (steaschist),  often  coated  with  blue  enamel;  or  else 
have  been  made  by  stamps  in  clay  vitrified  ;  and  the  very  small 
proportion,  under  similar  conditions,  that  are  found  in  "hard 
stones  "  have  their  devices  roughly  scratched  into  the  field  in 
away  that  betrays  the  most  rudimentary  stage  of  the  lapidary's 
art.  There  is  again  a  distinction  of  yet  greater  strength,  as 
indicating  a  total  dissimilarity  of  ideas  in  the  invention  of  these 
signets.  In  all  Egyptian  scarabsei  the  figures  of  animals,  even 
when  exhibited  on  a  larger  scale  than  the  other  details  of  the 
type,  are  merely  parts  of  one  hieroglyphic  legend,  and  are 
crowded  up  with  a  multiplicity  of  other  symbols  required  for 
the  completion  of  the  sense.  On  the  contrary,  in  Phoenician 
work,  the  hieratic  figure — whether  of  god,  hawk,  or  sphinx, 
becomes  the  type  of  the  signet,  loses  its  conventional  stiffness, 
is  cleared  from  the  crowd  of  accessories,  is  drawn  correctly, 
and  executed  with  a  precision  that  proves  the  mechanical 
part  of  the  engraver's  art  to  have  already  been  carried  to  a 
degree  of  perfection  never  afterwards  surpassed.  Animals,  for 
the  most  part  imaginary,  gryphons  and  sphinxes,  but  often  ac- 
curately copied  from  nature,  form  the  great  staple  of  Phoenician 
art,  as  the  following  list  (which  gives  a  far  more  complete  view 
of  the  whole  subject  than  has  hitherto  been  in  anyone's  power 
to  present)  will  abundantly  exhibit.  The  human  figure,  in  a 
mere  mortal  sense,  they  never  attempted.  It  is  evident  that 
all  their  gems  served  the  double  purpose  of  signets  and  of 
talismans,  all  embodying  religious  ideas;  and  that  even  the 
real  animals  so  often  represented  only  received  this  honour  as 
being  the  attributes  and  by  ready  transition  the  emblems  of 
deities  whose  good  graces  the  wearer  hoped  in  this  material 
\vay  to  secure  for  himself. 

These  Phoenician  works  were  evidently  the  models  followed 
by  the  primitive  Greeks,  of  whom  the  first  essays  in  glyptics 
are  the  rudely  polished  and  perforated  pebbles  found  in 
the  /Egean  Islands  (to  which  attention  has  only  recently 


358  APPENDIX. 

been  directed),  bearing  figures  of  animals,  generally  in  forced 
attitudes,  of  the  same  kinds  as  those  chosen  by  the  Phoenician 
artists.  The  Greeks,  however,  like  the  Tyrrhenes  of  Italy 
(starting  equally  from  Phoenician  rudiments),  following  their 
natural  genius,  soon  passed  on  to  the  human  figure  and 
the  subjects  of  common  life  ;  and  some  of  the  gems  in  this 
collection,  the  Three  Cypriote  Warriors  for  example,  or  the 
Two  Combatants,  afford  most  interesting  specimens  of  their 
apprenticeship  in  the  art.  They  discarded  the  scar  aba  us,  or 
complete  figure  of  the  Beetle  of  Ptha.  which  had  no  religious 
recommendation  in  their  belief,  and  adopted  the  simplified 
scarabcoid,  a  thick  elliptical  disk  of  sard  or  calcedony,  still 
retaining  its  perforation,  necessary  for  cither  mounting  in  a 
swivel  ring,  or  wearing  on  a  string  tied  round  the  wrist  like 
the  primitive  Assyrian  cylinder — a  fashion  retained  to  the 
present  day  by  some  of  the  hill  tribes  of  Northern  India.  In 
the  whole  Treasure  but  one  gem  occurs  set  in  a  ring,  in  our 
sense  of  the  word,  and  even  that  one  appears  devised  as  an 
expedient  to  remedy  a  partial  destruction  of  the  stone.  It  is 
indeed  very  probable  that  some  of  the  intagli  of  mystic  de- 
vices, here  classed  with  the  Phoenician,  are  really  the  works 
of  Cypriote  engravers,  for  the  religion  of  the  island  was,  to 
the  last,  strongly  tinctured  with  the  notions  of  her  earliest 
colonisers. 

GREEK    WORKS. 

The  indisputably  Greek  works  comprised  amongst  the 
votive  offerings,  form  only  a  small  proportion  of  the  whole: 
but  those  few  are  of  extraordinary  merit,  and  fortunately 
include  incomparable  specimens  of  the  two  branches  of 
glyphics :  engraving  in  metal,  and  in  "hard  stones.''  Of 
these,  the  earliest  in  date  are  clearly  those  cut  in  the  actual 
metal  ot  the  ring,  as  the  Hercules  \\ith  the  Nemean  lion, 
and  the  very  singular  type  of  the  Two  Sirens  with  wreaths 
and  lyres:  but  two  of  the  intagli  in  the  other  class  equal  or 
perhaps  surpass  in  every  point  of  artistic  value  any  gem  work 
previously  known  in  the  archaic  style — these  are  the  Rape 
of  Proserpine,  and  the  Boreas  and  Orithyia.  Remarkable 
also  for  fine  execution  are  the  archaic  Nemesis  with  the 
Serpent:  the  Victory  with  gre-at  wings  in  the  "  Perfect"  style, 
and  the  Sleeping  Mound,  and  some  others;  which  from  the 


TREASURE    OF    CURIUM.  359 

complete  knowledge  of  drawing  they  display,  cannot  be 
referred  to  a  period  much  anterior  to  the  concealment  of  the 
Treasure,  One  remark  must  be  made  here  on  the  nature  of 
their  subjects,  for  they  afford  a  proof  of  a  still  early  period  of 
Greek  taste :  they  include  no  scenes  from  the  Epic  Cycle, 
which  in  the  course  of  the  fifth  century  before  our  era  became 
the  regular  repertory  of  artists  in  every  branch,  and  scenes 
from  which  have  the  predominance  amongst  the  finely  executed 
intagli  belonging  to  the  later  years  of  the  archaic  period. 
Their  subjects,  again,  tell  that  these  were  the  signets  of  ladies 
— and  coupling  this  circumstance  with  the  epoch  of  their 
style,  we  may  be  pardoned  for  giving  the  reins  for  a  moment 
to  fancy,  and  seeing  in  these  priceless  jewels  the  last  offerings 
of  despairing  matrons  to  their  tutelary  goddess,  when  on  the 
fatal  day  of  Amathus  the  cowardice  of  their  own  Prince, 
Stasenor,  had  turned  the  scale  of  victory  in  favour  of  the 
Persians,  and  all  hope  of  earthly  aid  had  vanished  with  the 
death  of  the  gallant  Onesilos. 


RINGS,    ORNAMENTAL    AND    SIGNET. 

The  Greeks,  as  the  name  records,  were  the  inventors  of  the 
finger-ring,  8a/cn;/\ios,  as  distinguished  from  the  cr^payls,  the 
actual  signet,  engraved  in  any  material,  hard  or  soft  stone,  and 
of  any  shape — cylinder,  cone,  or  scarabanis — worn  on  the  neck, 
wrist,  or  finger,  by  cord,  wire,  or  swivel-ring. 

The  Finger-rings,  and  the  settings  of  the  signet-stones,  are 
now  to  be  passed  in  review,  and  will  be  found  to  offer  much 
that  is  both  novel  and  interesting  to  the  dactyliologist. 

The  finger-rings  are  of  several  patterns,  the  most  ancient 
being  those  merely  decorative  in  the  Egyptian  taste,  repre- 
senting a  coiled  asp.  An  elegant  idea  of  a  plaited  cord  of 
many  strands  is  seen  in  one  example.  Many  are  of  the  make 
so  commonly  found  in  the  cemeteries  of  Southern  Italy,  but  of 
less  massy  proportions,  consistently  with  the  inferior  opulence 
of  their  insular  wearers — a  plain,  three-sided  shank  swelling 
out  into  a  broad  elliptical  beasil,  in  no  single  instance  engraved 
with  any  device  (which,  too,  is  the  case  with  the  Campanian), 
but  polished  to  the  highest  degree.  Inghirami  figures  *  the 
sepulchral  effigy  of  an  Etruscan  lady,  wearing  rings  of  this 

*  Monumcnti  Etruschi,  '  Corrcdo.' 

B  B 


360  APPENDIX. 

identical  make  on  the  thumb  and  ring-finger  of  the  same  hand 
— a  sure  evidence  that  this  particular  fashion  of  ring  belongs 
to  the  feminine  toilette.  Then  come  a  few  solid  gold  rings, 
engraved  for  the  use  of  signets  ;  in  two  of  the  most  elegant, 
the  devices  show  a  Phoenician  origin,  cultured  into  beauty 
by  Hellenic  taste  ;  in  others,  for  example  the  Hercules  and 
Lion,  the  Greek  style  appears  fully  established.  It  is  curious 
to  observe  in  the  engraved  metal  and  gems  alike,  how  much 
sooner  perfection  was  attained  in  the  animals  than  in  the 
human  figure,  \vhich,  in  these  incised  designs,  still  retains  the 
stiffness  of  the  Assyrian  sculptures. 

The  settings  of  the  true  (r^paylba  seem  wonderfully  uniform 
and  simple  to  any  one  acquainted  with  the  variety  of  elaborate 
patterns — the  filigree  collets,  shanks  terminating  in  animals' 
heads,  or  formed  as  serpents — in  which  the  contemporary 
Etruscans  were  accustomed  to  mount  their  scarabgei.  Heavy 
and  light  alike,  all  follow  the  artless  Egyptian  plan  of  a  stout 
gold  or  silver  wire,  bent  into  an  elliptical  form,  tapering 
towards  the  ends,  which  become  the  pivots  on  which  the  collet 
enchasing  the  scarabsetis  or  scarabeoid  can  be  made  to  revolve. 
The  only  improvement  upon  the  model  was  the  omission  of 
the  clumsy  expedient  for  securing  the  gem  in  its  place,  by 
stringing  it  on  a  wire,  the  ends  of  which  were  then  wound 
round  either  extremity  of  the  shank.  In  another  respect,  also, 
they  differ  from  the  Egyptian  ;  their  larger  diameter  shows 
they  were  not  intended  for  wearing  on  the  finger  ;  and  the 
most  weighty,  in  both  metals,  actually  have  broad  loops 
affixed  to  the  exterior  circumference  to  receive  the  cord  by 
which  they  were  suspended  from  the  neck.*  Not  one  example, 
strange  to  say,  occurs  amongst  so  many  Phoenician  gems,  of 
the  regular  Phoenician  method  of  bending  the  shank  back  upon 
itself  to  form  a  similar  loop;  and  which  prevails  so  generally 
amongst  the  signets  from  Tharros.  It  is  evident  that  Egypt 
had  set  the  fashion  in  this  matter  to  the  nobles  of  Curium,  and 
the  earliest  Egyptian  signets  in  the  Treasure  are  closely  copied 
in  this  particular,  for  the  mountings  of  the  purest  Greek  intagli. 
These  early  Egyptian  works  must  have  come  to  the  island  by 
way  of  trade,  for  Amasis,  who,  Herodotus  expressly  says,  was 


*  They  explain  an  item  in  the  list  of  the  donaria  of  the  Parthenon  :  "Two 
glass  signets,  of  different  colours,  set  in  gold,  and  having  gold  chains  attached 
to  them."  (Chandler's  Travels,  Part  11.,  No.  IV.,  2.) 


TREASURE    OF    CURIUM.  361 

the  first  to  reduce  Cyprus  to  subjection,  reigned  only  a  few 
years  before  its  final  surrender  to  Cambyses. 

The  silver  swivel  rings,  which  for  the  most  part  contain  the 
gems  of  true  Greek  work,  are  remarkable  for  their  great  size 
and  weight  ;  the  shank  in  some  is  of  the  bigness  of  the  little 
finger,  tapering  down  to  a  fine  point  at  the  pivots.  Some 
gems  have  the  collet  of  gold,  and  the  shank  of  silver  ;  in 
others  an  outward  form  of  richness  has  been  simulated  by 
plating  a  copper  or  silver  core  with  gold.  All  the  gems. 
whether  engraved  or  not,  are  similarly  mounted  (with  very 
few  exceptions,  to  be  noticed  as  they  occur),  the  only  one 
found  loose  being  a  minute  scarabseus  of  plasma,  without 
device,  probably  a  bead.  The  settings  (to  avoid  needless 
repetition)  are  mentioned  in  the  following  list,  only  in  cases 
where  they  offer  anything  of  interest. 

Amongst  the  gold  ornaments  the  most  numerous  are  cer- 
tain annular  objects,  the  use  of  which  it  is  difficult  even  to 
conjecture.  These  are  hollow  tubes  of  gold,  in  some  few 
instances  with  a  copper  core,  for  the  most  part  of  about 
the  thickness  of  a  crow  quill,  bent  circularly  so  as  to  make 
two  complete  turns  upon  itself.  Some  few  have  ornamental 
tips  finishing  off  the  ends  ;  but  the  generality  leave  the 
sections  of  the  pipe  uncovered.  Their  discoverer  imagined 
them  to  be  "  ring-money,"  on  account  of  their  being  deposited 
in  such  large  quantities,  coupled  with  the  fact  that  no  coins 
of  any  kind  were  found  in  the  Treasure,  where  something 
serving  the  same  use  would  naturally  be  looked  for.  But 
this  explanation  is  controverted  by  the  circumstance  that  the 
ring-money,  as  represented  in  Egyptian  paintings,  equally 
with  that  still  current  amongst  the  Joliba  negroes,  is  in- 
variably in  the  form  of  single  penannular  rings.  Besides. 
ring-money  is  from  its  nature  required  to  be  solid.  The 
hollowness  of  the  articles  in  question  bespeaks  ornament, 
where  the  largest  amount  of  show  was  to  be  extracted  from 
the  smallest  possible  expenditure  of  the  precious  metal.  A 
little  light,  however,  seems  thrown  on  the  difficulty  by  two 
words  of  Homer,  who  in  describing  the  brooch  fastening 
Ulysses'  mantle,  says  it  was  "made  with  'double  pipes.' 
biOLiJ.oi.-n,  and  in  front  there  was  a  figure  in  relief."  •' 


*  Odyss.  xix.  227.     ftrnfiuXoi',  properly  any  image  in  \voocl  or  metal.     Some 
of  the  rings  in  question  have  leaf-like  chasings  affixed  to  them.     They  were 


362  APPENDIX. 

N'ow  this  expression  is  very  applicable  to  a  gold  tube  making 
a  double  turn  as  in  this  case,  and  such  would  be  available 
for  securing  a  robe  like  the  chlamys  by  its  two  ends  passed 
through  the  opening  ;  after  the  present  fashion  for  fastening 
a  scarf.  Or,  there  is  an  alternative — the  early  Athenians 
(and  the  same  remark  necessarily  holds  good  for  the  lonians 
also)  are  described  by  Thucydides  as  fastening  up  the  hair 
over  the  forehead  in  a  bunch,  by  means  of  golden  figures  of 
the  Cigala ;  for  which  purpose  a  ring  at  the  back  of  the 
insect  was  the  most  obvious  expedient.  Some  Greek  heads 
of  nymphs  which  represent  the  hair  fastened  in  a  small  tuft 
at  the  back,  appear  as  if  a  ring  were  used  for  the  purpose. 
In  the  famous  Turin  Isis  (with  the  Ethiopia  inscription)  the 
hair,  twisted  into  two  long  tresses,  is  passed  through  a  fasten- 
ing shaped  as  a  mask,  upon  the  breast,  and  twice  again 
through  rings  placed  at  intervals.  If  the  Cypriote  ladies  ever 
followed  the  fashion  set  by  the  Universal  Mother,  the  orna- 
mental ends  of  these  spirals,  and  the  foliated  appendages  which 
some  of  them  carry,  would  have  produced  considerable  effect. 
To  bring  the  notices  of  gold  work  under  a  single  head,  the 
subjects  cut  in  the  gold  rings  will  be  now  described,  although 
in  point  of  date  they  are  more  recent  than  the  majority  of  the 
gems. 

GOLD  RINGS. 

1.  Two  Sirens  (or  Harpies,  the  same  type  serving  for  both), 
birds  with  women's   heads,  each  holding  a   lyre   and  a  wreath, 
placed  foot  to  foot  on  opposite  sides  of  a  large  "  Greek  honey- 
suckle,"*    occupying    the    middle    of    the    field.      Exquisitely 
engraved  on  the  gold  face  of  a  ring,  an  oblong  three-quarters 
by   half  an  inch,  with  two  strangely  shaped   incisions  on  each 
side,  giving  it  the  outline  of  a  Carian  shield,  which,  together 
with  its  emblasoning,  the  ring  was  probably  intended  to  repre- 
sent, although  the  significant   device   leaves  little  doubt  as  to 
the   pacific  character   of  the   profession   of  the  fair   one   who 
offered  it  at  the  shrine. 

2.  Two  lions,  regardant  and  coiichant  (heraldically  speaking). 


TREASURE    OF    CURIUM.  363 

facing  opposite  ways,  with  very  long  tails,  elevated  in 
symmetrical  curves.  Below,  on  a  second  level,  two  sphinxes, 
face  to  face.  A  graceful  design,  engraved  with  the  utmost 
delicacy  on  the  face  of  a  ring,  rive-eighths  of  an  inch  square. 
The  form  of  the  ring  itself  displays  equally  consummate  taste  ; 
the  head  is  slightly  indented  on  two  sides,  between  the  two 
types,  so  as  somewhat  to  approach  a  quatrefoil  in  outline, 
each  member  of  which  is  gracefully  scooped  out  at  the  back, 
imitating,  probably,  the  calyx  of  a  flower,  into  which  the  shank 
enters  after  the  manner  of  the  stalk.  Taking  into  account 
the  typical  signification  of  the  sphinx  and  the  lion  in  early 
symbolism,  a  device  of  such  dignity  as  this  could  only  have 
been  borne  by  a  lady  of  royal  blood. 

3.  Hercules  encountering  the  Nemean  lion,  though  not  with 
a  club,    as   in   later    art,    but   with   a   regular   lasso    which    he 
tightens  round  its  body,  while  he  grasps  the  mane  with   his 
other  hand.     The  model  has  evidently  been  the  type  of  the 
god  and  lion,  so    frequent    in    Assyrian  works,  but  advanced 
a  step  by  the  Greek  sense  of  Nature.     The  lion  is  admirably 
drawn,  but  the  human  figure  continues  stiff  and  archaic,  that 
branch    of   design   having  been  the   last  to   reach  perfection. 
Deeply  cut  in  the  oval  face  of  a  solid  gold  ring,  of  the  usual 
Greek  pattern. 

4.  Man  and  woman,  facing  each  other,  both  holding  up  the 
right  hand  as  if  in  adjuration.    The  man  is  nude,  the  woman  clad 
in  a  long  tunic,  with  her  hair  falling  in  a  full  queue  down  her 
back.     The  gesture  shows  this   to  be   a  betrothal  ring,   from 
its  resemblance  to  the  type,  of  ascertained  meaning,  so  fre- 
quent on  gems  of  Roman  times.     \Yithin  a  plain  "  Etruscan 
border,"  on  the  vcsica-pisccs  shaped  face  of  a  solid  gold  ring,  of 
small  size. 

SPECIES    OF    GEMS    FOUND    IN    THE    VOTIVE    OFFERINGS. 

The  jeweller's  stock  of  gems  was  evidently  very  restricted  up 
to  the  date  of  the  latest  contributions  to  the  Sacristy.  Many 
of  the  finest  swivel  rings  of  gold  are  set  with  sards  and 
banded  agates  (sardonyx  cut  transversely),  not  engraved,  but 
highly  polished  on  both  sides,  meant  for  mere  ornament,  as 
precious  stones  of  highest  price.  Of  the  latter  material  are 
many  cylindrical  pieces,  about  an  inch  long,  slightly  barrel- 
shaped,  not  bored,  but  with  the  ends  tipped  with  gold,  intended 


364  APPENDIX. 

for  the  centres  of  necklaces,  of  the  same  fashion  as  that  found 
in  the  "  House  of  Holconius  "  at  Pompeii.  The  estimation  in 
which  the  species  was  held,  is  strikingly  manifested  by  two 
massy  gold  bracelets,  representing,  by  embossed  work,  three 
rows  of  beads,  which  have  for  their  centre  a  round  and  an  oval 
sardonyx  respectively,  of  large  size,  but  of  very  inferior  quality. 
The  circumstance  reminds  us  that  what  was  shown  in  Pliny's 
days  for  the  veritable  ring  of  Polycrates,*  was  set  with  an 
unengraved  sardonyx,  "gemma  intacta  illibata."  Not  even 
the  common  garnet,  so  frequent  in  the  Cypriote  mortuary 
jewels  of  later  ages,  is  to  be  discovered  amongst  these  samples 
of  the  primitive  wealth  of  the  island  ;  which  in  this  respect 
bears  a  wonderful  resemblance  to  that  of  the  early  inhabitants 
of  Assyria.  Lapis  lazuli  must  have  held  the  highest  place  in 
the  scale  of  value  :  it  only  occurs  in  very  small  pieces,  as  an 
adjunct  to  the  most  elaborate  earrings.  Of  plasma  (the 
ancient  jaspis)  two  specimens  of  fine  clear  quality  are  met  with 
in  scarabaei,  one  set  in  a  gold  ring,  the  other  not  engraved  nor 
mounted  ;  and  two  scarabaeoids  of  a  hitherto  unknown  variety 
of  the  gem.  to  be  described  in  their  proper  place  in  the  Greek 
series.  In  black  haematite,  besides  the  cylinders,  a  truly 
novel  style  of  work  presents  itself — a  frog  in  full  relief,  about 
an  inch  long,  cleverly  done  and  beautifully  polished.  \Yith  it 
came  another  carving  in  the  same  material,  but  of  less  skilful 
work,  supposed  to  represent  a  goose's  head.  Exquisite  for 
taste  and  finish  are  two  miniature  "  Sacred  Baskets,"  com- 
monly seen  in  the  hands  of  Assyrian  gods  :  the  one  cut  out  of 
haematite,  the  other  oi  lustrous  sard  :  with  covers  and  handles 
added  in  goldsmith's  work,  of  a  gracefulness  and  delicacy  that 
surpasses  all  description.  Examples  of  consummate  skill  in  the 
lapidary's  art  are  the  numerous  minute  Tortoises  in  full  relief, 
in  sardonyx  and  agate — that  deeply  significant  attribute  assigned 
with  such  good  reason  to  the  Feminine  Principle  of  Nature, 
wherever  she  was  worshipped,  and  whether  named  Mylitta, 
Aphrodite,  or  Venus.  Rock-crystal  occurs  in  the  form  of  a 
thick  hoop  ring,  lined  with  gold,  an  unexpected  example  at 
this  early  date  of  a  fashion  hitherto  supposed  to  belong  to  late 
Roman  times  :  it  has  also  been  used  for  one  or  two  of  the 
intagli.  which  shows  that  Theophrastus  was  right  in  number- 
in  <r  crvstal  amongst  the  stones  "  out  of  which  sis/nets  are 


TREASURE    OF    CURIUM.  365 

made."  But  the  most  extraordinary  memorial  of  its  use  in 
Cyprus  is  a  perfume-vase  of  the  regular  Egyptian  shape,  about 
six  inches  in  height,  with  two  small  handles  wrought  out  of  it.; 
substance  upon  the  shoulders  ;  the  top  encased  in  gold,  and 
furnished  with  a  lid  of  the  same  metal  attached  by  a  short 
chain  of  the  so-called  Trichinopoly  pattern,  both  ornamented 
with  designs  in  filigree  :  the  whole  mounting,  for  taste  and 
execution,  offering  the  most  perfect  specimen  of  antique 
metal-work  that  can  possibly  be  imagined,  and  which  would 
be  a  valuable  model  to  our  own  jewellers  in  the  designing  of 
similar  articles  of  the  toilette.  "With  this  were  found  two 
others,  also  in  crystal,  of  half  the  size,  more  squat  proportions, 
and  unfurnished  with  mounting. 

The  single  specimen  of  the  use  of  amber  at  that  period  is 
an  oval  disk,  carved  on  each  side  into  a  full-faced  mask,  and 
hanging  by  a  loop  from  a  gold  earring ;  bringing  vividly  to 
mind  Homer's  description,  already  quoted,  of  the  Phoenician 
necklace  offered  to  the  Queen  of  Syra  "hung  with  bits  of 
amber,"  doubtless  carved  in  the  same  way. 

AGATE     MACE-HEAD,     (^v  p.  309.) 

No  piece  of  antique  worked  agate  hitherto  known,  equals 
in  magnitude  and  curiosity  the  ornament  discovered  amongst 
the  bron;:e  and  iron  articles  of  the  Treasure,  engraved  p.  309. 
It  is  a  sphere  about  six  inches  in  diameter,  black  irregularly 
veined  with  white,  having  the  exterior  vertically  scored  with 
incised  lines,  imitating,  as  it  were,  the  gadroons  of  a  melon. 
Through  the  middle  passes  a  large  bore,  continued  above  and 
below,  through  short  tubes  of  the  same  stone  made  of  separate 
pieces.  The  whole  was  traversed  by  a  stout  rod  of  metal,  now 
so  completely  oxidised  as  to  render  it  impossible  to  decide 
whether  of  silver  or  iron — but  probably  the  latter,  to  judge 
from  the  company  in  which  it  was  deposited.  The  agate  was 
evidently  the  head  of  a  mace  of  state  :  an  idea  borrowed  from 
the  Babylonians,  every  one  of  whom,  as  Herodotus  notices, 
''carried  a  sceptre  (long  staff),  on  the  top  of  which  was  made 
an  apple,  a  rose,  a  lily,  an  eagle,  or  something  of  the  sort." 
The  war  mace,  of  the  same  shape  as  this  agate,  is  often  seen 
in  the  hands  of  Assyrian  soldiers;  and  again,  in  the  sculptures 
of  Persepolis,  the  Persian  usher  who  introduces  each  deputa- 

*  I.   "95. 


366  APPENDIX. 

tion  of  the  subject  nations  into  the  royal  presence,  carries  a 
staff  of  office,  headed  with  a  ball,  doubtless  of  a  precious 
material.  The  "Thousand  Guards"  of  Xerxes  carried  for 
badge  a  golden  apple  or  pomegranate  fixed  on  the  butt-end  of 
their  spears,  whence  they  obtained  the  name  of  "  Melophoroi," 
apple-bearers.  Taking  into  account  the  high  value  placed  upon 
the  agate  in  the  early  times  of  Greece,  when  it  was  greatly 
prized  as  a  ring-stone  (Pliny  remarks  of  it,  "Achates  in  magna 
fuit  auctoritate,  nunc  in  nulla  est"),we  may  safely  conclude 
that  we  have  here  the  memorial  of  some  high  functionary  at 
the  Cypriote  court,  offered  in  gratitude,  perhaps  on  his  retire- 
ment from  office,  to  the  tutelary  goddess  of  the  place. 

PASTES. 

Many  of  the  swivel  rings,  and  those  too  among  the  most 
valuable  intrinsically,  are  set  with  Pastes,  substitutes  for 
precious  stones,  but  so  corroded  by  the  nitrous  earth  of  their 
hiding  place,  that  what  species  the}'  originally  counterfeited 
cannot  now  be  determined.  It  is.  nevertheless,  to  be  perceived 
that  they  were  all  of  them  opaque,  and  therefore  we  may  infer 
that  they  were  imitations  of  the  then  so  precious  lapis  lazuli, 
the  "Royal  Gem,"  as  Epiphanus  remarks  it  was  anciently 
called.  A  most  interesting  example  will  be  described  in  its 
own  place,  where  Art  has  improved  upon  Nature,  by  substituting 
straight  bands  of  solid  gold  for  the  irregular  spots  of  the  genuine 
lazulite.  These  pastes  are  all  purely  ornamental ;  there  is  but 
one  dubious  example  of  the  imitation  of  an  intaglio  (which 
afterwards  became  so  common),  a  poor  impression  of  the 
figure  of  a  stag.  The  process  of  making  paste-signets  by 
the  cheap  and  facile  method  of  casting  in  glass  upon  a  matrix 
taken  from  an  engraved  gem.  was  evidently  still  in  its 
infancy  in  the  Sidonian  glass-house.  This  abundance  of 
vitreous  fabrications  was  naturally  to  be  looked  for  in  a 
country,  so  much  of  which  was  occupied  by  Phoenician 
colonists,  and  which  formed  as  it  were  the  outpost  of  Tyre 
herself.  The  Sidonians  were  the  inventors  of  glass,  and  the 
sand  of  their  river  Belus  was  long  believed  to  have  some  secret 
virtue  that  enabled  it.  and  it  alone,  to  liquefy  into  "  crvstal."  * 
Actual  remains  and  universal  tradition  unite  to  testify  that 
the  first  use  of  the  discovery  was  the  making  of  personal 

*  The  Greeks  had  but  one  word  for  the  t\vo. 


TREASURE     OF    CURIUM.  367 

decorations,  and  that  the  vitreous  material  was  solely  worked 
up  into  beads  and  amulets  for  a  great  space  of  time  before  the 
idea  occurred  to  the  workers  of  converting'  it  into  vessels  for 
domestic  use.  Herodotus,  living  half  a  century  after  the  date 
of  the  sack  of  Curium,  had  evidently  never  seen  glass  except 
in  the  form  of  paste-gems,  which  he  has  to  describe  by  the 
circuitous  term  "  fusible  stone."*  Even  a  century  after  him 
Theophrastus  mentions  glass  as  reported  to  be  made  by  fusion 
out  of  a  particular  stone;  a  proof  that  the  actual  process  of 
glass-making  was  still  totally  unknown  in  Greece.  And  his 
contemporary,  King  Seleucus  of  Syria,  is  described  by  the  Court 
annalist  Mnesiptolemus  as  drinking  out  of  a  bowl  ''of  molten 
gear,"  as  though  the  article  were  even  then  of  the  rarest 
novelty,  befitting  the  table  of  the  wealthiest  monarch  of  the 
day.t  The  Sidonians^  enjoyed  the  monopoly  of  ornamental 
paste-making  long  into  Roman  times,  as  is  apparent  from  the 
identity  of  manufacture  of  the  glass  beads  discovered  in  the 
most  widely  distant  provinces  of  the  empire.  But  the  Treasure 
before  us  reveals  the  curious  fact  that  as  far  down  as  the  date 
of  the  siege  of  Curium,  they  had  not  attained  to  the  making  of 
translucent,  much  less  transparent  glass,  otherwise  their 
imitations  of  precious  stones  would  not  have  been  confined  to 
the  opaque  species  ;  they  would  at  all  events  have  counterfeited 
the  emerald,  a  gem  even  then  possessed  and  highly  valued  by 
their  neighbours  of  Egypt,  and  which,  in  fact,  they  at  a  later 
period  made  in  paste  with  extraordinary  success.  Neither 
had  these  primitive  glass-workers  got  so  far  as  the  turning 
their  new  discovery  into  vessels  for  the  toilette  or  table,  as  is 
manifest  from  the  total  absence  of  all  such  imports  in  the  large 
stock  of  vases  and  alabastra  belonging  to  the  Treasure,  where 
they  must  necessarily  have  found  a  place  if  in  use  before  the 
cells  were  closed  ;  as  may  safely  be  inferred  from  the  great 
abundance  of  glass  in  every  form  and  variety  of  colour  that 
the  Sidonian  factories  supplied,  exhumed  by  the  same  explorer 
from  the  Cypriote  cemeteries  of  later  generations. 

*  Speaking  (if  the  earrings  worn  by  the  sacred  crocodiles  (ii.  6y). 

t  Athena-us.  x.  40. 

£  "  Sidone  quondam  his  officials  nobili.''  are  Pliny's  words  ;  in  whose 
times  glass  making  had  been  but  recently,  "jam  vero,"  introduced  into  Italy. 
All  the  glass  vessels  from  the  Cypriote  tombs  were  probubh  of  Sulonian 
manufacture. 


APPENDIX. 


INTAGLI    OF    THE    SIGNETS    DESCRIBED. 

The  Assyrians  take  the  lead  in  this  classification,  for  though 
probably  less  ancient  than  some  of  the  Egyptian  in  their 
company,  they  are  beyond  all  question  the  earliest  examples 
of  the  true  process  of  engraving  in  "hard  stones;"  the 
Egyptian  intagli  being  merely  incised  with  the  graver  in  much 
less  obdurate  materials. 

1.  Deity,  standing  with  one  foot  set  upon  a  recumbent  bull  : 
brandishing  in  one  hand  a  mace,  in  the  other  a  rod  whence 
issue  two  zig-zag  rays,  attribute  of  Iva-Yul,  god  of  thunder. 
Before  him  stands  a  man,  probably  the  reigning  king,  before 
whom  kneels  a  smaller  figure  entirely  nude,  the  owner  of  the 
signet.       Facing    him    stands    another    man,    clad    in    a    robe 
wound  spirally  about  his  body  from  neck  to  foot,  a  costume 
indicating  high  antiquity  in  this  class  of  monuments  ;  overhead, 
an  ibex,  inverted.     Behind   him   are  three  rows  of  neatly  cut 
cuneiform  Assyrian,  read  by  Mr.  Sayce  as  "  Arba   Istar — son 
of  Ibn  Beled — servant  of  the   god    Narani    Sin."     This    last- 
named  prince  is  already  known  in  inscriptions  as  contemporary 
with   Sargon  the  Assyrian,  earlier  than  the  sixteenth  century 
before  our  era.     Cylinder  of  black  lisematite,  one  inch  high ; 
well  engraved. 

2.  Deity,  standing,  with  arms  crossed,  but  without  distinctive 
attribute  ;  before  him  stands  a  worshipper  with  uplifted  augural 
staff;    behind    him  two    columns  of  well-cut   cuneiform,   read 
by    Mr.   Sayce  as  "  Everbaga — servant  of  Nergal   (Mercury)." 
Cylinder  of  haematite,  three-quarters  of  an  inch  high ;  neat  work. 

3.  Man,  bearded,  standing  with  one  hand  uplifted  in  adora- 
tion, in  the  other  a  short  wand.     He  is  clothed  in  a  long  plain 
loose  robe  reaching  to  the  ankle  ;  his  costume  being  identical 
with  that  of  the  seated  figure  in  the  famous  cylinder  of  King 
Urukh.     Over  his  head  are  two  small  gryphons  seated,   facing 
each  other.     The  engraving  of  the  figure  has  a  precision  and 
finish   unusual   in   its   class ;    which,    coupled    with    the    extra- 
ordinary size  of  the  cylinder  (which  always  increases  with  the 
rank    of  the     owner'),    indicates    the    signet    of    some    exalted 
personage.     The  other  vertical   half  of  the  stone  is  filled  with 
eight  columns  of  large   cuneiform   letters,  well  cut  :   but  some- 
what blundered  through   the   illiterate-ness  of  the  lapidary  who 
engraved   them.      Mr.   Sayce  reads  them  as   "  Sin   [the   Moon- 
god]   Benefactor  of  multitudes — Judge  oi    the  world  ;    perfect 


TREASURE    OF    CURIUM.  369 

Purifier  of  heaven  and  earth — Giver  of  the  life  of  the  gods — 
The  Law  which  supplies  the  servant  of  thyself — my  Prince — 
Turan  Agin— The  son  of  Puri — The  Reader."  The  legend, 
therefore,  is  a  prayer  addressed  by  the  owner  of  the  signet, 
Turan  Agin,  son  of  Puri,  to  his  patron  god,  the  "  Deus  Lunus  " 
of  later  times.  Cylinder  of  rock-crystal,  three  inches  long. 

4.  Antelope,  looking  backwards,  at  what  may  be  either  a 
great  four-rayed  star  (symbol  of  Shamas  the  Sun-god)  ;  or  else 
the  small  figure  of  a  man  standing  upon  the  beast's  haunches  ; 
so  rudely  indefinite  is  the  work.  But  the  piece  has  a  special 
value  as  being  the  only  example  of  the  Assyrian  conical  seal 
found  amongst  the  donaria — a  form,  of  signet  which  became 
common  at  Nineveh  about  the  ninth  century  before  Christ.  It 
is  about  one  inch  high,  and  three  quarters  diameter  at  the 
base  :  of  very  clear  white  chalcedony.  About  a  quarter  of  the 
lower  part  is  cased  with  gold,  and  the  perforation  for  the 
string  is  similarly  lined.  A  unique  example  of  such  a  decora- 
tion in  this  kind  of  signet. 


EGYPTIAN    CLASS. 

1.  Cartouche  of  Thothmes  III.  (as  Egyptologists  are  pleased 
to    call    it),   erected   between    a    kneeling  man,  holding    up  a 
sphere    upon    his    hands,    and    the    royal   vulture    with    wings 
outspread,   both  figures  disposed  like   heraldic   supporters   to 
the  cartouche.     Scarabasus  in  white  steaschist,  set  in  a  gold 
collet,  with  a  very  massy  shank  in  silver. 

2.  Beetle,  inclosed  in  a  border  of  four  papyrus  flowers,  very 
gracefully  arranged.     The  beetle  figures  here  as  type  of  Ptha, 
the    Great    Creator.     Cut    with    extraordinary    neatness,    for 
Egyptian  work,  in    a   scarabseus  of  white  steaschist.     Silver 
mounting. 

j.  Osiris,  on  his  throne,  the  crook  in  one  hand,  the  scourge 
in  the  other,  various  symbols  occupying  the  field.  Large 
scarabajus  of  soft  white  stone.  Silver  mounting. 

4.  Seated  deity,  in  conical  cap:  before  him  an  altar.    In  front 
stands  a  man  with  hands  raised  in   adoration,  overhead  soars 
the  Mir  or  winged  disk  emblem  of  the  presence  of  divinity. 
Rude  work,  but   probably  Phoenician  (from  the  introduction  of 
the  Mir)  imitation  :  small  scaralxeus,  carnelian. 

5.  Egyptian  altar,  placed  between  two  erect  asps,  supporting 
a  vase,   probably  Canopic,   in   the  shape   of  an   elongated   and 


370  APPENDIX. 

inverted  cone,  with  very  long  handles;  the  exergue  is  filled  with 
the  conventional  representation  of  growing  grass.  Neatly  cut 
with  the  graver  in  a  scarabaeus  of  soft  stone,  enamelled  blue, 
with  "  artificial  cyanus,"  *  in  the  regular  Egyptian  manner. 

6.  Bowl-shaped    vase,    set    on    a    pedestal,    on    which    are 
perched    three    birds.     Scarabaeus    of    soft    stone,    beautifully 
enamelled  with  blue. 

7.  Antelope,  lying    down  ;    over    its    back  various    symbols 
Rudely  cut  in  a  scarabaeus  enamelled  blue. 

8.  Hawk,  bearing  the  scourge  on  his  shoulder  :  in  front  the 
crux  ansata,    emblem    of  life ;    below,    a   wide-spreading  lotus 
plant.      Neat    work,    in     a    small    scarabaeus    of   white    stone. 
Silver  mounting. 

9.  Basket  on  stand,  on  which  is  seated  Horus  in  the  midst 
of  tall  lotus  flowers.     Square  tablet   of  vitrified   clay.     Silver 
mounting. 

10.  Seated  Deity  :  in   front  the  crux  ansata.     The  engraving 
almost    effaced.     Scarabseus    of  soft    white    stone,  in    a    gold 
collet  with  silver  shank. 

11.  Two  hawks,  facing  each  other  :  one  bears  the  scourge, 
the    other    the    crux  ansata.     A   remarkable    type,    but   much 
defaced    through    the    softness   of   the  white   stone  scarabaeus 
on  which  it  is  cut.     Gold  collet,  with  silver  shank. 

12.  Ibis,  attitude  of  Thoth,  with   outspread  wings,  hovering 
over  an   eye,   symbol   of  Osiris.     Small   scarabaeus.  enamelled 
blue.     Silver  mounting. 

13.  Sphinx  recumbent;  in  front,  an  altar.     Small  scarabaeus, 
enamelled  blue.     Silver  mounting. 

14.  Baboon-headed     man.     representing     Thoth.     standing 
before  the  Orb  :   behind,  rises  a  tall  pillar.      Rudely  cut   in   a 
scarabaeus  of  soft  white  stone,  in  a  gold  mounting. 

15.  Asp    erect,    in    front    of     a    tall    plurne.    symbol    of   the 
goddess     Xeith.       Small     scarabaeus    ol     white    stone.     Gold 
setting. 

16.  Liliaceous  plant  springing  up  out  of  foliage  (apparently 
suggestive  of  a  phallus):  on  each  side,  tilling  the  field,  is   the 


*  Cyanus.  "blue-stone/'  was  the  inferior  sort  of  lazulite  used  for  making 
ultramarine.  Theophrastus  says  55  ,  "The  Kgyptian  cyanus  is  produced 
by  art.  and  the  writers  of  the  hi-tory  of  their  monarch.}"  record  which  of  the 
kings  it  was  who  made  a  fusible  I'vaintx  in  imitation  of  the  natural  stone  ; 
they  further  mention  that  the  mineral  used  to  be  sent  as  a  present  from  other 
countries." 


TREASURE    OF    CURIUM.  371 

crux  ansata,  emblem  of  fecundity,  inclosed  within  a  simple 
"  Etruscan  border."  There  can  be  little  doubt  this  very 
curious  type  was  worn  as  a  talisman  for  the  cure  of  barren- 
ness in  woman.  Of  singularly  well-finished  work,  in  a  small 
scarabaeus  of  white  stone.  Silver  mounting. 

17.  Hawk-headed  sphinx,  seated  :  on  her  head  is  placed  the 
orb  ;  in  front  various  symbols.    Deeply  cut  in  a  large  scarabaeus 
of  white  stone  ;  silver  mounting. 

18.  Type  entirely   destroyed   by  a  fracture  of  the   surface, 
with  the  exception  of  a  crux  ansata :   in  a  large  scarabaeus  of 
hard  stone,  in  gold  collet,  with  silver  shank. 

19.  Man  brandishing  a  sword  ;  barbarous  work,  in  a  small 
scarabseus  of  soft  stone  ;  silver  mounting. 

20.  Royal    vulture,    hovering   over   the    Beetle  ;    both    with 
wings  spread.     Elegantly  done  in  a  small  scarabaeus  of  white 
stone ;  silver  mounting. 

21.  Hawk,  with  various  symbols  in  the  field.    Small  scarabaetis 
of  white  stone  ;  gold  mounting. 

22.  Sphinx  couchant ;  various  symbols  in  the  field.      Rude 
work,  in  a  small  scarabaeus  of  white  stone ;  gold  collet  with 
silver  shank. 

23.  Lotus  flower,  or  vase,  carelessly  scratched   on  a  small 
scarabaeus  of  white  stone  ;  gold  setting. 

Note.  In  the  foregoing,  as  well  as  in  the  following  lists,  the 
settings  are  not  always  noticed,  although  all  the  scarabaei  are 
provided  with  them.  It  is  a  curious  fact  that  the  merit  of 
the  intaglio  has  nothing  to  do  with  the  value  of  the  setting  ; 
as  the  preceding  list  exemplifies,  where  the  very  poorest 
scarabaei,  as  a  rule,  possess  the  most  expensive  gold  swivel 
rings. 

Next,  the  Phoenician  works  are  to  be  considered  :  for  the 
criteria  serving  to  separate  them  from  the  Egyptian  they  so 
closely  imitate,  the  reader  is  referred  to  the  preliminary 
remarks.  They  form,  indeed,  the  most  interesting  part,  in 
an  archaeological  point  of  view,  of  the  whole  collection,  so 
large  a  number,  and  so  great  a  variety  of  monuments  un- 
mistakably Phoenician,  having  never  before  been  brought  at 
once  under  the  eye  of  the  student  of  ancient  glyptics.  And 
even  for  beauty  of  execution,  many  of  these  intagli  will  stand 
comparison  with  the  best  of  the  archaic  Greek  and  Etruscan 
schools. 


372  APPENDIX. 


PHOENICIAN    GEMS. 

1.  The  Solar  Hawk,  crowned  with  the  Egyptian  helmet,  as 
worn  by  Osiris,  carrying  upon  his  shoulder  the  crook  and  the 
scourge  :   in   front   the   Royal   Asp  erect,   in   the  field  a  semi- 
circular and  an  oval  dot  ;  marks  of  the  signet  of  a  royal  lady. 
Boldly  engraved  in  a  large  scarabseus  of  fine  sard.     This  gem, 
with    its   companion,  has  the  most  sumptuous  setting  of  any 
in  the  Treasure  :   an  immense  gold  swivel  of  Phoenician  rather 
than  Egyptian  fashion,  being  bent  into  a  perfect  ellipse,  with 
a  broad   loop  soldered  on  to  the  centre  of  the  outer  circum- 
ference, by  which  it  was  suspended.     This  handle  is  clamped 
on.   by   means  of  foliated   terminations,  to  the  collet   holding 
the  scarabanis  in  a  most  ingenious  and  elegant  manner,  totally 
differing    in    taste   from   the   Egyptian    mountings   of   signets. 
Subject   and   setting  make  it  apparent  that  this  was  a  royal 
seal.     But  what  adds  to  its  interest  is  the  fact  that  it  has  a 
fellow  of  exactly  the  same  pattern  and  dimensions  ;  and  that, 
not  a  signet  but  a  pendent  je\vel ;  for  its  collet  contains  that 
most  unexampled  paste  of  lazulite  with  bands  of  gold  inserted, 
already  noticed  when  speaking  of  such  manufacture.     The  care 
bestowed  upon  its  mounting  is  sure  evidence  that  the  Sidonian 
trader  had  passed  it  oft"  upon  the  Cypriote  queen  as  a  precious 
stone  of  the  highest  value  and   rarity,  a  fraud  of  which   other 
examples   are  still   extant  ;   the  best   known    being    those   two 
wonderfully  beautiful   pastes*  in  the    Bale   Cabinet,  honoured 
with    the    choicest    performances    in    the    way    of    rings    ever 
achieved  by  Etrurian  goldsmiths. 

2.  Cynoccphalus,  or  Sacred  Baboon,  seated,  with  tablet  in  one 
hand,  stylus  in  the  other,  discharging  his  function  of  "  Scribe 
to  the  gods."     From  the  animal's  noted  fondness  for  pen  and 
ink.   he  was.   according  to    Horapollo.   given    for  attribute  to 
Thoth,  the  god  of  letters.      In   the  field  is  a  hieroglyph  of  two 
vertical   lines   enclosing   two   dots       :     .      A  strictly  Egyptian 
type,  but  too  well  engraved   for  any  but  a  Phoenician  hand  :   in 
a  scarabaeus  of  carnelian. 

j.  Hercules,  clad  in  the  lion's  hide  (by  anticipation  it  would 
seem),  armed  with  a  huge  curved  Egyptian  club,  encountering 
a  lion  rampant,  whom  he  has  grasped  by  the  fore  paws. 


TREASURE    OF    CURIUM.  373 

vainly  struggling  to  back  out  of  his  reach.  This  subject  is  very 
curious,  for  the  Egyptian  taste  manifested  in  it  :  as  in  the 
double  plume  on  the  head  of  Hercules,  the  diminutive  crowned 
asp,  and  persea-leaf  in  the  field  at  his  back.  Overhead  soars  the 
Mir,  the  visible  presence  of  the  Deity  :  a  distinctive  mark  of 
Phoenician  origin  in  all  works  where  it  is  found.  Well  drawn, 
and  carefully  engraved,  and  of  much  interest  as  showing  the 
source  whence  such  ideas  were  afterwards  borrowed  by  the 
Greeks,  who  applied  them  in  a  materialistic  sense  to  their 
historical  Hercules,  though  all  such  types  of  combat  in  their 
Asiatic  originals  bore  mystic  reference  to  the  unceasing  strife 
of  the  Two  Principles  by  which  the  work  of  Nature  is  carried 
on.  Small  scarabseus,  carnelian. 

4.  Hawk-headed  deity,  Phre,  in  Egyptian  costume,  kneeling 
and   upholding  on   his   head   a  great   sphere.     The  subject  is 
inclosed  in  a  border  of  a  single  line  line.     The  remark  made 
upon  Xo.  2  is  yet  more  applicable  to  this  intaglio,  for  notwith- 
standing the  nationality  of  the  type,  the  wonderful   perfection 
of  both  drawing  and  execution  proves  it  a  masterpiece  of  the 
Phoenician  school  of  imitators.     Scarabaeus,  five-eighths  of  an 
inch  long  ;   in  fine  sard. 

5.  Two    divinities    of    true     Phoenician    type,    with    wings 
elevated,  holding  between  them  a  wreath  :  they  may  be  figures 
of  Victory.     Behind  the  one  is  the  regular  symbol  of  the  con- 
junction of  Baal-hammon  \\ith  Ashtaroth,  so  invariably  found 
on  the  Phoenician  and  Carthaginian  votive  tablets,  formed 

by  uniting  the  circle  with  the  triangle  or  cone  thus, 
as  seen  also  on  coins  of  Cossura.*  Slightly  engraved, 
and  much  defaced  by  wear,  on  the  elliptical  face  of  a  small 
solid  finger-ring,  of  the  simplest  pattern,  made  of  electrum, 
perhaps  native  gold  of  Cyprus.  That  the  island  possessed 
this  amongst  its  other  mineral  treasures,  may  be  inferred  from 
the  name  ''  Chrysocomi."  still  borne  by  a  village  near  the  site 
of  Aphrodisium.  \Yith  Cypriote  inscription. 

6.  Kneeling    figure,    with    wings    issuing    from    before    the 
shoulders  as  in   Egyptian  works,  the  one  depressed,  the  other 
elevated,  and  extending  one  hand  in  token  of  amity.     This  is  a 
type  of  special  value  in  this  series,  from  its  identity  with  that 
of  the   Phoenician  coinage  of  Malta,  where  it  forms  the  reverse 


*  So  explained  by  Gcsenius  ;  but   others,  with  less  reason,  give   it  to  the 
Goddess  Tanit. 


374  APPENDIX. 

to  a  head  of  Isis  :  which  places  the  origin  of  this  gem  out  of 
doubt.  The  drawing  is  good,  but  the  engraving  somewhat 
sketchy.  Scarabaeoid  ;  banded  agate. 

7.  Two    men    kneeling,    with    hands    raised    in   adoration. 
Between  them  is  set  up  a  blank  cartouche,  above  which  rises 
a   double    asp.      Overhead    soars    the    Mir,    Presence    of    the 
Deity  ;    behind    each    man    is    placed    the    crux    ansata ;    the 
exergue   is  filled    in   with   the   conventional    representation   of 
growing    grass.       Although    the    figures    and    general    idea    of 
the    group    are    borrowed  from    Egypt,    yet    the    fact    of    the 
cartouche's   containing    no    hieroglyphic   and    therefore   being 
used  as  a  meaningless  ornament,  the  introduction  of  the  Mir, 
and  the  skilful  execution  of  the  intaglio  itself,  together  with 
the  shape  given  to  the  gern — are  incontestable  evidences  of  its 
Phoenician  origin.     Scarabaeoid  ;  brown  chalcedony. 

8.  Warrior,  in  conical  helmet,  with  large  round  shield  with- 
out an    lunbo,  plunging    his    spear    into    the    neck  of    a    lion- 
headed  (?)  man  *  bearing  a  round  shield  with  a  great  uinbo,  who 
kneels  before  him,  sinking  his  own  spear,  and  asking  quarter. 
The  marked  difference  of  armament  evident!}'  denotes  differ- 
ence of  nationality  between  the  two  combatants.     The  victor 
ma\'  be  supposed    a   Phoenician    invader  of  the  island,  an  ex- 
planation borne  out  by  the  style  and  figure  of  the  gem — a  sard 
scarabaeoid  somewhat  roughly  engraved. 

9.  Two   men    wrestling,    the    body    nude,    but  with    quilted 
drawers  on  the  thighs,  as  in   many  Egyptian  sculptures,   and 
also   seen  on  certain    Etruscan  warriors  under  their   armour. 
Behind  each  champion  stands,  as  second,  a  tall  winged    asp. 
On   the   ground  between   them  lies   a   small  indefinite  object, 
perhaps  the  prize  of  victory.     This  type,  if  Phoenician,   must 
be  taken    in   the  same  mystic   sense  as  the  rest  ;  but  if,  as  is 
very  possible,  an  early  Cypriote    work,  has  no  deeper  meaning 
than  a  record  of  the  pakestra,  so  dear  to  all  Greeks.     A  good 
engraving,  upon   a   scarabaeoid  of  a  curious  species  of  plasma, 
transparent,  with  opaque  clouds.     This  gem  was   found  with- 
out a  setting. 

10.  Conical  object  (the  famous  idol  of  Paphos),  covered  with 
network,  like  the  Delphic  Omphalos,  surmounted   by  a  sphere, 

*  A  head  covered  with  a  Persian  hood  may  be  all  that  is  intended,  so  rude 
is  the  work  :  but  if  the  monster  is  really  to  be  seen  here,  the  type,  as  before, 
expresses  the  combat  of  the  Two  Principles. 


TREASURE    OF    CURIUM.  375 

whence  spring  two  asps,  and  standing  upon  the  hieroglyph  for 
"gold."  Across  the  apex  of  the  cone  spreads  a  horizontal 
row  of  objects,  apparently  small  asps.  Overhead  soars  the 
Mir.  On  each  side  stand,  as  heraldic  supporters,  a  hawk- 
headed  deity,  and  a  human  figure.  It  will  be  observed  that 
the  general  outline  of  the  central  object  reproduces  the  copu- 
lated cone  and  circle,  that  regular  Punic  emblem  of  the  con- 
junction of  Baal-hammon  with  Ashtaroth,  already  described 
under  No.  5  of  this  series.  The  nationality  of  the  work  is 
proved  by  a  gem  (Stosch  Cabinet,  published  by  Gesenius 
No.  Ixx.),  in  all  points  identical  (but  on  a  larger  scale,  and 
with  the  details  better  defined),  which  bears  the  name  of 
the  owner,  "  Ben-Had,"  in  distinct  Phoenician  letters.  Well 
drawn,  and  clearly  engraved  on  a  scarabseoid  of  calcedony. 

11.  The  Baris,  or  Sacred  Boat  of  the  Nile,  carrying  the  ter- 
restrial globe,   between   two   great  asps.     Over  it  stands  the 
solar  disk;  above  all  soars  the  Mir.     The  Baris  floats  above  a 
row  of  lotus  flowers  growing  out  of  the  river  bank  ;  a  beautiful 
symbolising  of  the  divine  government  of  the  world  in  its  four 
elements,   and  put   upon   the   gem   by  a   practised  hand,  in  a 
manner  not  unworthy  of  the  idea.     Scarabaeoid,  agate. 

12.  The  Baris  again,  carrying   a  hawk,  perched  upon  poop 
and  prow.     In  the  middle  sits  enthroned  a  deity,  behind  whom 
stands  an  inferior  god  as  attendant  ;  in  front  a  third  with  hand 
lifted   in  adoration.     All  three  bear  the  orb   on   their  heads, 
to   mark  their  divine   nature.     A  simple  "Etruscan  border" 
encloses  the  group,  which  is  done  in  a  very  sketchy  style,  and 
may  be  equally  Phoenician  or  Tyrrhene,  for  it  closely  resembles 
some  of  the  scarabaei  from  Tharros.     Small  scarabaeoid,  of  that 
unfrequent  material  for  intagli,  rock-crystal. 

13.  Two   sphinxes,    seated,   each    with    one    forepaw    raised 
against  the  "  Horn,"   or  Tree   of  Life,  over  which   floats   the 
Mir.       Gesenius*   gives    a   very    similar   type,    but    with    the 
addition    of  two    worshippers,    of  much     importance    to    our 
inquiry,    for   it    bears    in    Phoenician    letters    the    name   "  Lo- 
sargad,"  "of  the  Prince  of  Victory,"  which  decides   the  origin 
of  the  present   work.      Slightly  engraved   upon   a   pure   green 
plasma,   the   only  one  of   the    kind    (except    a    miniature   un- 
engraved  scarabaeus)  in  the  whole  Treasure.     This,  too,  is  the 
scarabaeus  complete,  of  larger  size  than  the  generality. 

*  Phoenician  Monuments,  Xo.  Ixx.  tcr. 

c  c 


376  APPENDIX. 

14.  Sphinx  facing  a  lion,  both  recumbent ;  between  them  is 
set  up  a  tall  cross,  an  emblem    perpetually  recurring   in   the 
class,  but  probably  (notwithstanding  all  that  has  been  said  on 
the  subject)  of  no  deeper  meaning  than  the  conventional  figure 
of  a  star,    "  the  star  of  your  god    Remphan,"  elevated  on  a 
pole.     The  emblem   of  Shamas,   in  the    royal   necklace,   is   a 
regular  Maltese  cross.     This  subject  frequently  occurs  on   the 
graffiti  gold   rings,   and   is   a  truly    Phoenician    device.     Care- 
lessly engraved,  on  a  small  scarabseoid  ;  calcedony. 

15.  Hawk-headed   gryphon,    seated,   with   wings  half  open  ; 
upon  his  head  the  solar  disk,  in  front  the  crux  ansata.     Rudely 
and  deeply  cut,  in  a  small  scarabaeoid  of  sard. 

16.  Stag  browsing  upon  a  tree  ;   over  his  back  are  two  letters, 
perhaps    Cypriote,    but    lost    through    a    flaw    in    the   surface. 
Sketchy  work  upon  a  small   scarabaeoid  of  either  bad  lazulite, 
or  a  paste  imitating  that  stone;    the   "artificial   Cyarms "  of 
Theophrastus. 

17.  Hawk-headed   gryphon,   wearing  the   conical   helmet  of 
Osiris,  seated  upon  the  hieroglyph  for  gold;  in  front  rises  a  tall 
lotus  stem.     Engraved  with  great  fineness  of  touch,  in  a  fully- 
formed  scarabaeus  of  fine  sard. 

18.  Gryphon,  recumbent,  crowned  with  the  horned  cap  of 
Belus.      In  front,  a  great  star,  representing  the  Sun,  of  whom 
the  gryphon  is  the  special  attribute.      Most  delicately  engraved 
upon    a    small    scarabaeoid    of   sard,    completely   blanched    by 
fire. 

19.  Hawk-headed  gryphon,    seated,   looking  backwards ;    in 
front,  placed  vertically,  is  a  club.     As  this  is  the  well-known 
mint  mark  that  distinguishes  the  coins  of  Tyre,  it  probably  has 
the   same  meaning  in  this   prettily   executed  intaglio.      Small 
scarabaeus  of  sard,  in  a  heavy  swivel-ring  of  silver. 

20.  Gryphon,  walking  with  \\ings  expanded  ;  in  front  a  large 
star.     Very  sketch}-  work,  on  a  scarabseoid  of  fine  eye-onyx. 

21.  Two  lions,   engaged  in  deadly  combat,  each  having  his 
jaws   fixed    in    the  lower  part   of   his   antagonist's    bell}'.     By 
this  symmetrical    arrangement,  the  group    presents  the  same 
appearance,  viewed   from   \\hatever  side.      The  manes  are  ex- 
pressed by  cross  hatchings,  in  a  very  perfunctory  manner,  but 
the  rest   of  the  figure  is  drawn   with   much    fidelity  to   nature. 
and    carefully    finished.      The    design    is     contained    within    a 
simple   Htruscan   border.     Complete   scarabseus,  seven-eighths 


of  an  inch  long,  of  brown  calcedony. 


TREASURE    OF    CURIUM.  377 

22.  Animal  of  uncertain  species,  perhaps  an  antelope,  placed 
symmetrically  in  the  midst  of  three  large  leaves  of  the  same 
kind    as    those  commonly  seen   on   Phoenician  votive    tablets. 
They  may  be  leaves  of  the  Persea  plum,  which  from  their  re- 
semblance to  the  tongue,  were  held  sacred  by  the  Egyptians.* 
Rudely  incised   on  a  scarabseoid  of  soft  dark  stone,  perhaps 
serpentine,  but  extremely  curious  from  its  back  being  carved 
into  a  full-faced  mask,  probably  meant  for  an  amulet,  though 
not  the  regular  Gorgoneion.      It  may  be  Baal  himself,  whose 
full  face  makes  the  reverse  of  some  coins  of  Juba  II. 

23.  Two  wild  goats  erect,  turned  back   to   back,  but  falling 
towards   each    other,    (heraldically   speaking,    ''addossed    and 
regardant").    Between  them,  set  upright,  is  a  large  lanceolated 
leaf,  doubtless  of  the  same  mystic  significance  as  in  the  last 
described  subject,  the  same  leaf  being  repeated  at  each  side. 
Type  and  manner  of  engraving,  unmistakably  Phoenician  ;    in 
a  large  scarabaeoid  of  brown  calcedony. 

24.  Asp,    erect    before    a    three-branched    plant ;    such    as 
figures  later   on   many  Serapis   gems.     Neatly  cut   on   a   very 
small  scarabasus  of  sard. 

25.  Asp,  winged,   the  one  wing   raised,   the   other   lowered. 
facing  a  tall   cross,  of  the   nature  already  explained.     Below 
them,  a  four-rayed   star,   symbol  of   Shamas,  the   Sun-god  :  a 
curious  union  of  Assyrian   and    Egyptian   forms,  quite   in   the 
spirit  of  the   syncretistic  religion   of   Phoenicia.      Beautifully 
engraved    on    a    small   scarabaeus    of   green    jasper,    the  only 
specimen  of  that  stone  met  with  amongst  the  donaria. 

26.  Two  men,  with  right  hands  lifted  in  adjuration  :  between 
them    rises    a    plant,    overhead    soars    the    Mir ;   showing    the 
subject  to  have  a  religious   significance,  perhaps  the   making 
of  a  solemn   covenant.     Rudely  done  in  flat  relief  upon   tin- 
square    face    of    a   finger-ring   in    solid    silver,    apparently    oi 
Cypriote  manufacture. 

GREEK    IXTAGLI. 

The  subjects  rather  than  the  art.  have  been  taken  for  guide 
in  classifying  gems  under  this  heading;  although  our  know- 
ledge of  the  stages  observed  in  the  natural  growth  of  every 
art,  makes  it  tolerably  certain  that  some  of  the  works  in  the 


-.578  APPENDIX. 

foregoing  scries  are,  really,  Greek  imitations  of  Phoenician 
models — the  first  essays  of  artists  as  yet  too  timid  to  trust 
themselves  amongst  the  graceful  creations  of  their  own 
mythology. 

1.  Man,   with  mighty  wings    outspread,  flying  through   the 
air,  with   a   naked  girl   clasped  in   his  arms,   who   still    retains 
hold  of  a  lyre  in  the  hand  which  hangs  down.     The  ravisher 
looks   backwards,  as  if  defying  all  pursuit  ;  and   with   all  the 
conscientiousness  of  early  art,  is  made   to  strike   out  with  his 
legs   in   the   air,   as   though    swimming  in    a   more   substantial 
element.     The  subject  can  be  no  other  than  Boreas  carrying 
off  Orithyia,  daughter  of  Erechtheus,  from  the  banks  of  the 
Ilissus ;    the    lyre,  so    conspicuously    introduced    to    tell    the 
subject,  evidently  alludes  to  the  fact  that  she  was  "  disporting 
herself"  (-a^ovo-a,  Plato   has   it  in   the    Phsedrus,    229,   C.)   at 
what  time  the  Wind-god  swooped  down  upon  her.     This  story 
has   not  hitherto  been   found   on  a  gem,*  although  its  violent 
action    had   so  much   to   recommend   it  to  the  archaic  taste  ; 
but    it    may    be    mentioned    that    the    celebrated    intaglio    of 
Achilles  holding  up  the  slain   Penthesilea  offers   a  somewhat 
analogous   composition.      This   work   equals   anything  known 
in   the   style,   for   the   bold    drawing   and    skilful    treatment    of 
the  nude  forms — qualities  which,  with   its  wonderfully  minute 
finish,  and   unique   subject,  make   the   gem   perhaps,   the   most 
precious  example  of  Greek  art.  just  emerging  from  the  archaic 
stage,  hitherto   brought  to  light.     A   sculptor   of   the    highest 
eminence    has    praised    the    correctness   of   the    drawing,   and 
pointed    out   that   the    apparent   distortion    of  one   of  Boreas' 
feet  was  necessitated  by  the  confinement  of  the  field — a  law  to 
which   the   early  engravers  are  seen,  in    many  of  their   works, 
to  have  felt  themselves  bound  to  conform.      Scarabatoid,  five- 
eighths  of  an  inch  long,  in  a  sard  of  quality  worthy  of  the  work 
it  bears  ;   and  set  in  a  gold  swivel-ring  of  considerable  weight. 

2.  Man.  bearded,  with   long   hair  bound  with   a  fillet  in  the 
primitive  style,  grasping  by  the  waist  and  caressing  a  girl,  who 
appears    to    struggle    to    disengage    herself,   and    drops    a   tall 
flambeau    she    is    carrying.       He    is    clothed    in    a    long    robe 
reaching  to  the  ankle,  with  chlamys  hanging  over  his  arm  :   she 


TREASURE    OF    CURIUM.  379 

wears  a  long  tunic  and  short  upper  garment,  and  has  her  hair 
bound  up  in  the  mitra,  the  national  head-dress  of  the  Greek 
islands,  as  seen  upon  the  conventional  portraits  of  Sappho. 
The  flambeau  in  her  hand  is  introduced  (by  anticipation)  to 
place  out  of  doubt  that  the  scene  is  the  "  Rape  of  Proserpine," 
and  the  victim  the  future  Queen  of  Night.  Of  this  subject,  no 
other  example  is  now  extant  on  a  gem,  although  the  story  of 
Sporus'  ill  omened  New  Year's  gift  to  Nero,  proves  it  had 
been  taken  by  other  eminent  practitioners  of  the  art.  An  early 
vase-painting,  however,  represents  the  same  legend  ;  and  here 
also  the  god  (in  opposition  to  the  general  rule  for  the  repre- 
sentation of  deities)  wears  the  same  long  robe,  emblematic  of 
a  dark  and  mysterious  Power,  and  which  probably  distinguished 
his  character  when  brought  upon  the  Attic  stage  :  Euripides 
styles  Death,  appearing  in  a  visible  form  in  the  Alcestis,  /xeAa^- 
~e77Aos — the  peplos  being  the  most  ample  of  all  female  garments. 
This  intaglio,  for  excellence  of  composition  and  forcible  expres- 
sion of  its  meaning,  with  a  truthfulness  almost  indelicate 
according  to  modern  ideas,  aided  by  the  miraculous  finish  of 
all  its  details  (for  even  the  little  jewel  on  the  maiden's  mitni 
is  clearly  shown)  may  safely  be  phiced  at  the  head  of  all  that 
is  known  in  the  archaic  style.  In  the  latter  points  it  equals 
the  far-famed  "  Five  Heroes  in  Council "  of  the  Stosch 
Cabinet ;  whilst  in  design  it  is  far  superior,  being  entirely 
emancipated  from  the  grotesque  stiffness  of  that  Etruscan 
masterpiece.  In  fact  this  engraving  as  strikingly  exemplifies 
the  proficiency  of  the  early  Greeks  in  treating  draped  figures, 
as  the  "  Boreas  and  Orithyia"  does  for  the  nude.  The  subject 
was  probably  chosen  for  signet-device  by  the  lady  who  first 
owned  it,  from  its  reference  to  some  scene  in  the  Mysteries  of 
Demeter  (the  old  Athenians,  says  Plutarch,  called  the  dead 
"  Demetrians");  that  it  was  meant  as  a  warning  of  the  shortness 
of  life,  like  the  Foot  of  Hermes  crushing  the  Psyche  butter- 
fly of  Roman  gems,  is  too  transcendental  an  idea  for  those 
times  of  primitive  simplicity.  The  artist  has  fortunately 
allowed  himself  a  larger  field  than  is  usual  in  archaic  glyptics 
for  the  exhibition  of  his  skill,  a  scarabaeoid  three  quarters  of  an 
inch  long,  ot  calcedony.  This  gem  is  mounted  in  a  very  massy 
swivel-ring  of  silver:  curiously  attesting  the  poverty  of  the 
Hellenes  at  this  period  of  their  history  as  much  as  it  does  their 
advance  in  art.  and  strongly  contrasting  with  the  costly  decora- 
tions of  the  barbarous  Egyptian  signets  that  keep  it  company. 


380  APPENDIX. 

3.  Goddess   with   wings    recurved    in    the    archaic    manner, 
standing,  with  right  hand  raised  and  forefinger  extended   as  if 
beckoning,  or.  it  may  be,  holding  a  flower  (?)  ;  the  other  hand, 
pressed  close  to  her  side,  grasps  a  torque  ;  over  the  extended 
arm  falls  in  ample  folds  a  large  peplos  of  the  finest  stuff.      Her 
wings,    as   in   Phoenician  figures,  spring   from  the  front  of  the 
shoulders,  not  from  the  top  as  in  later  art,  a  singular  instance 
of  attention  to  the  possibility  of  such  adjuncts  to  the  human 
frame.     In  the  field  is  an  erect  serpent.     This  attribute,  insepa- 
rable from  the  Attic  Athene,  would  at  the  first  view  lead  us  to 
suppose  that  goddess  to  be  meant,  were  it  not  for  the  absence 
of  the  helmet,  indispensable   to  that  conception.     She  may  be 
the   primitive   embodiment   of  the   idea   of  Nemesis,    and   the 
serpent  added  as  the  emblem  of  Wisdom.    But  this  enigmatical 
representation  is  evidently  akin  to  the  type  of  a  rare  coin  of 
Marium  in  the  same  island,  a  winged  female  of  precisely  the 
same  period  of  art,  shown  in   front  face  in  violent  movement, 
bearing  in    one   hand   a  wreath,  in    the  other  a  partly  effaced 
object.     Nemesis,  in  her  later  representations,  carries  a  mea- 
suring-rod,   ^.r    else    holds    up    her    right    arm    to   exhibit    the 
"  cubitus  "  in  the  same  sense;   inculcating  the  maxim,  /uerpw 
apiamr.     Regularly,  she   is   winged,   the   "wingless"'    Nemesis 
being  peculiar  to  Smyrna.     She  actually  appears  preceded  by 
a  serpent  upon  an  aureus  of  Julius  Caesar,  and  upon  a  denarius 
of  Claudius.      Her  worship  at  Rhamnus  is  a  proof  of  her  being 
amongst   the   primitive   Ionian   deities  ;   in    fact,  she  was  from 
first  to   last  only  a  particular  aspect  of  the  goddess  Fortune. 
The  execution  of  this  intaglio  is  of  the  finest,  but  the  design  has 
something  of  the  Phoenician  stiffness  about  it,  so  that  the  work 
may  safely  be  attributed  to  the  Cypriote  school.     Scarabaeoid 
of  fine  sard,  mounted  in  a  gold  swivel-ring  of  dimensions  suit- 
able for  wearing  on  the  finger. 

4.  Victory,  with  great  drooping  wings,  standing  in  front  face 
but   looking  to  the   left  (in   the   impression)  and   holding  forth 
the  laurel  wreath.      She  is  clothed    in   a    long   pleated    tunic, 
over  which  is  put  a  short  plain  upper  garment.     The  figure  of 
the    goddess    and   the    manner    in    which    it    is    draped    much 
resemble     the     same    type-     upon    the     staters    of    Alexander, 
although     its    style    had    by    that    time    become    more     loose. 
Nothing    can     surpass     the    beauty    of    the    drawing,    or    the 
exquisite  finish  of  this  example  of  the   "  Perfect  Greek  "   style. 
Small  scarabaeoid  of  sard,  mounted  in  a  gold  collet  attached  by 


TREASURE    OF    CURIUM.  381 

a  loop  to  a  gold  hoop  ring,  from  which  it  dangles  in  the  wear  : 
a  unique  example  of  this  method  of  carrying  the  signet. 

5.  Youth,  nude  figure,  standing  between  two  prancing  horses, 
whom  he  grasps  by  the  shoulders.     If  found  in  later  art,  this 
group    would    stand    for    "  Hercules    taming    the    man-eating 
steeds  of  Diomedes  the  Thracian,"  but  in  the  present  case  it 
is  more  probable  that  the  sense  is  Assyrian  and  mystic  (such 
being  the  real  source   of  the  afterwards  imagined   "Labour" 
of  the  demi-god)   for  the  work   is  as  yet   archaic,   as  is   very 
apparent  in  the  human  figure,  although  the  horses  are  drawn 
with  equal  accuracy  and  spirit.     Small  scarabseoid  of  brownish 
opaque  stone,  partly  calcined. 

6.  Youth,  quite  nude,  bending  forward  over  a  large,   long- 
tailed  hound,  which  raises  itself  to  lick  his  hand  ;   he  carries  a 
short  wand  tipped  with  a  ball.     Such  a  group,   in   later  art, 
would  be  interpreted  as   "  Ulysses  recognised   by  the  faithful 
Argus  ;  ''  but  at  this  early  stage  of  Greek  culture  it  is  much 
more  likely  that  nothing  deeper  is  meant  than  a  "  Picture  of 
Boy  and    Dog."     A   border  of  a   single  tine  line  incloses  the 
group.      The    highest    point   to   which   the   older   school   ever 
attained   is  reached    in    this    intaglio,    which    rivals   the   cele- 
brated   ''  Tydeus   with    the    strigil  "    (Berlin)    in   its    accurate 
anatomy,    and    careful    finish    of    details.      Scaraba^oid,    five- 
eighths  of  an   inch  long,  very  neatly  shaped  and  polished  out 
of  a  plasma  of  the  curious  species  above  described,  transparent 
with   opaque   clouds.       This   gem   has   no   setting,    being,   per- 
haps,   intended    to   be   carried    on   a    string    about    the   wrist. 
after  the  most  ancient  mode  of  wearing  the  signet. 

7.  Youth,  nude  figure,  his  long  hair  tied  with  a  fillet  in  the 
archaic   style,   kneeling  with   one  hand    laid  on   his  breast,   in 
token   of  submission,    and   holding   forth   in   the   other,   as  an 
offering,  a  rectangular  object,  perhaps   a  piece  of  honeycomb, 
although  the   cells   are    not    indicated.     The    intaglio,    though 
well  done  in   some  parts,  is  evidently  unfinished,  both  the  feet 
being  wanting  to  the  figure,  and  the  legs  merely  sketched  out. 
Large  scarabaeoid,   of  the   curious   species  of    plasma  already 
described  in  two  other  specimens,  and  which,  no  doubt,  passed 
at  the  time  for  an  inferior  smaragdus.      Pliny*  mentions  that 
a  marble  lion,  set  upon  the  tomb  of  Hermias.  a  Cypriote  king, 
had    the   eyes    made    of    "  smaragdus    Cyprius  ;  "    and    Theo- 

*  Hist,  Nat.  xxxvii.  17. 


382  APPENDIX. 

phrastus  speaks  of  the   gem    being   commonly  found   in  the 
copper-mines  of  the  island. 

8.  Girl,  nude,  kneeling,  and  offering  a  vase  with  spherical 
belly,  and  elongated  neck  and  foot.     She  carries  a  long  wand, 
of  which  the  curved  end  shows   over  her  shoulder.      Sketchy 
work,  of  later  date   than   any  of  the   preceding ;   on  a   small 
round  scarabseoid  of  chalcedony. 

9.  Warrior,  nude,  in  a  close-fitting  helmet,  KaTairvg,  seizing 
by  the  hair  a  woman,  who  crouches  before  him,  and  grasps  his 
arm  as  if  imploring  mercy  from  the  ravisher,  whose  purpose  is 
declared  by  the  cord  in  his  other  hand.     Engraved  in  a  free 
style,  with  little  attempt  at  finish,  much  in  the  manner  of  the 
later  Etruscan  work.     Sard,  apparently  cut  down  from  a  larger 
gem,  as  part  of  the  subject  now  goes  out  of  the  field.     The 
only  example  in  the  Treasure  of  a  gem  set  in  a  regular  finger- 
ring,  not  a  swivel.     It  is  of  very  elegant  make;  the  collet  has 
a  "  wave  pattern  "  in  filigree,  running  round  it,  and  the  shank 
is  of  complex  and  pretty  design.     What  more  fitting  signet  for 
a  Tyrrhene  sea-rover  ? 

10.  Three  warriors,    marching   in   line,  armed  with   spears 
and  round  shields  with  unusually  large  umbos,  their  equipment 
being  precisely  that  of  the  royal  guards,  as  represented  on  the 
Amathus  tomb.     Herodotus  remarks  of  the  Cyprian  contingent 
in  the  army  of  Xerxes,  that  they  were  armed  after  the  Greek 
manner,   but  wore   tunics,   and   their  kings  wrapped  up  their 
heads  in  mitrce  (like  females).*     A  most  interesting  work  from 
the   certainty    of   its    origin,    although  very    rudely    executed, 
being   cut   with   the   graver   in    a   scarabseus   of  dark   brown 
steaschist. 

IT.  Man,  propped  on  a  staff,  feeling  his  uplifted  foot  (?)  ; 
within  a  regular  Etruscan  border.  The  bold,  coarse  work 
of  the  intaglio,  like  that  of  No.  9  in  this  series,  resembles 
Etruscan,  and  the  gem  may  easily  have  found  its  way  to 
Curium  in  the  stock  of  some  trader  of  that  adventurous 
people.  Small  scarabaeus,  of  fine  sard. 

12.  Woman,  nude,  seen  from  behind,  rinsing  out  her  long 
hair  in  a  great  basin  set  on  a  pedestal,  like  the  labnnn  of  the 
Roman  baths.  The  attitude,  that  of  the  well-known  "  Peleus 
purifying  Himself."  It  is  doubtful  if  this  scene  represents  a 
simple  operation  of  the  toilette,  or  has  the  deeper  meaning  of 

*  Hist,  vii.  90. 


TREASURE    OF    CURIUM.  383 

a  rite  for  averting  the  ill  luck  threatened  by  dreams.     Propertius 
has  of  the  love-sick  Tarpeia — 

"  Ssepe  ilia  immeritas  causata  est  omina  Lunse, 
Et  sibi  tingendas  dixit  in  amne  comas." 

The  figure  is  within  an  Etruscan  border,  and  is  done  with 
great  spirit,  considering  the  microscopic  size  of  the  gem,  a 
scarabaeoid  no  more  than  a  quarter  of  an  inch  long  ;  of  sard 
blanched  by  fire. 

13.  \Yoman,  entirely  nude,  crouching  down,  in  the  attitude 
of   "  Venus    at    the    Bath  ; "    her    hair    falls    freely  down  her 
shoulders,  whilst  she  passes  the  long  tresses  through  her  fingers 
to  disentangle  them.     Everything  about  this  remarkable  type 
evinces  that  we  see  here  no  mythical  nymph  or  goddess,  but 
the  fair  owner  herself,  who  advertises  her  venal  charms  by  her 
signet.     Perfect  Greek  work,  of  the  latest  period  of  any  in  the 
Treasure ;    its    beauty    passes    all    description,    and    gives    an 
idea  of  the  Amymone  of  the  same  school,  fully  justifying  the 
extravagant  laudation,  already  cited,  of  the  amateur  Ismenias. 
Scarabaoid  of  fine  sard,  five-eighths  of  an  inch  long. 

14.  Horse,  with  forelegs  bent,  in  the  act  of  lying  down  ;   in 
the    field    above,    in    large    rough    lettering,    STII^IKPATHS 
(reversed  on  the  gem),  the  whole  in  a  border  of  a  single  fine  line, 
which  adjunct  is  a  normal  distinction  of  true  Greek  work,  as 
contrasted  with   the   always    double,    often  elaborate,   borders 
used    by    Etruscan    artists.      As    gem    legends    are    always   in 
the    genitive,    this    signet    must    have    belonged    to    a    lady, 
"  Stesicrate."     The    engraving    retains    but    little    of    archaic 
stiffness,  and  its  date  is   certainly   of  the   latest  amongst  the 
donaria.     The  legend  is  written  in  the  Ionic  character,  which 
necessarily  was  used  on  the  Asiatic  coast  and  adjacent  islands 
long  before  it  was  adopted  at  Athens  (a  fact  sufficiently  proving 
its  general  use  elsewhere),  and  which  was  done,  says  Plutarch, 
as  early   as   B.C.  420.      Horses  in  constrained  attitudes  were  a 
favourite  study  with  Greek  artists  of  all  kinds.      Plutarch  tells 
a  story  of  the  early  painter,  Pauson,  that  being  commissioned 
to  paint  a  horse  rolling  on  its  back,  he  produced  one  galloping 
to  his  indignant  patron,  who,  however,  was  more  than  satisfied 
when  Pauson  showed  that  by  inverting  the  picture  the  wished- 
for  attitude  was  attainable.      Scarabaeoid,  nearly  one  inch  long, 
of  light  brown  calcedony;  mounted,  as  arc  most  of  the  Greek 
gems  here,  in  a  very  massy  swivel-ring  of  silver. 


384 


APPENDIX. 


15.  Great  wolf-dog,     sleeping,  tied   by   a   short  cord   to   the 
stump  of  a  tree.       Done   in    the   "  Perfect  "  Greek  style,  with 
incomparable    fidelity    to      nature,     and    wonderful     finish    of 
details.     The  do  g,   as   represented  in   Greek  art,   is  always  of 
one  breed,  with  long  tail  and     ears,  smooth-haired,  with  large 
head,  generally  resembling   our  "  pointer,"  which    in    fact    is 
still  the  commonest  kind    seen   in  Central   Italy.      Scarabseoid, 
five-eighths  of  an  inch    long,  in  a  singular  material  like  a  black 
paste,  but  probably  trachyte  or  "  touchstone  "  (a  coarse-grained 
black  jasper),   for   the     intaglio   is  evidently   executed    by   the 
same   technique    as    those   in   the   other   "hard   stones"   of   the 
collection. 

16.  Raven,  perched  on  rocks:  over  its  back  the  crux  ansata, 
in   front   the  branch     of  a   tree,   perhaps   Apollo's   bay,  as  the 
bird  was  his  special    attribute.       It  may  possibly  be  connected 
with  the  worship  of    Apollo    Hylates,  "  Apollo  of  the    Forest," 
whose    temple,    so    famous    in    after   times,    stood   at    a   short 
distance  from    Curium.      Bordered    with  a  single  fine  line,  sure 
proof  of  its  Greek  origin,  notwithstanding  the  truly    Egyptian 
symbol    in    the    field,    as      likewise   may  be   deduced   from    its 
workmanship,    naturalistic,    though    rather     sketch}".        Small 
scarabasus,  sard. 

17.  Ibis,  stand  ing  with  raised  beak,  in  the  act  of  swallowing. 
Although  the     symbol  of  Thoth,  and  doubtless  bearing  here  a 
mystic  sense,    the   bird   is  in   a   good  Greek   style.      It  is  most 
remarkable    for  the  form  of  the  gem  it  occupies,  a  four-sided 
piece  of  clear  sardonyx,     i  X  £  inch  long  and  wide,  vuth  the  other 
three  sides  blank,  perforated    through   its  length,  and  set  in  a 
gold  swivel  ring  ;   e  vidently  considered  a  very  precious  stone. 

iS.  Hippocainp  us.  winged,  and  in  rapid  motion,  traversing 
the  waves.  Although  this  graceful  monster  is  the  special 
creation  of  Phoenician  fancy,  having  no  prototype  in  either 
Assyrian  or  Egyptian  imageiy.  and  is  the  regular  mark,  fittest 
badge  of  a  seafaring  people,  of  all  coins  owning  the  influence 
of  Tyre  or  Carthage  - — yet  its  free  drawing  and  exquisite  finish 
oblige  us  to  assign  this  gem  to  a  Cypriote  hand.  Minute 
scarabasus,  of  fine  sard. 

icj.  Cartouche;,  placed  vertically  between  two  erect  asps,  on 
which  is  inscribed  in  large  letters  E\TZ.  This  word  can  be  no 
other  than  f'xts',  the  old  form  of  e\i6ra,  and  may.  possibly,  be  a 
proper  name,  after  the  analogy  of  Draco,  not  uncommon  in 
Greece;  and  llchidna,  whose  amour  with  Hercules  Herodotus 


TREASURE    OF    CURIUM.  385 

relates.  Or  if  taken  in  its  primary  sense,  the  word  may  consti- 
tute an  amulet  against  the  asps,  still  so  plentiful  in  Cyprus, 
to  be  of  the  nature  of  those  prophylactic  rings  against  snake- 
bites alluded  to  by  Aristophanes.*  Arab  amulets  at  the  present 
day  bear  the  figure  of  the  thing  against  which  they  exert  their 
virtue,  and  all  oriental  practices  in  this  line  come  down  from 
immemorial  antiquity.  Elegantly  engraved,  on  a  scarabaeoid 
of  banded  agate. 

It  is  very  interesting  to  compare  the  foregoing  list  with  that 
drawn  up,  some  seventy  years  later  than  the  siege  of  Curium, 
of  the  dedicated  offerings  of  the  same  nature  in  the  most 
important  temple  of  Greece.  One  of  Boeckh's  Inscriptions, 
dating  from  the  Peloponnesian  War  (B.C.  430-404),  enume- 
rates in  the  Treasury  of  the  Parthenon  :  "a  large  onyx, 
engraved  with  an  antelope,  weighing  32  drachms  ;  an  onyx,  not 
engraved.  2/0  drachms  and  half  an  obol  ;  an  onyx  t  set  in  a 
gold  ring  ;  an  onyx  t  set  in  a  silver  ring  ;  a  jaspis  [plasma]  t  in 
a  gold  ring;  a  jaspis  signet  encased  in  gold  [probably  a  scarabaeus 
mounted  as  a  pendant] ;  a  signet  in  a  gcfld  ring  [i.e.  not  cut  on 
a  gem,  but  in  the  gold  itself] ;  a  signet  in  a  gold  ring,  dedicated 
by  Dexilla;  a  gold  ring  [not  a  signet,  but  ornamental]  weighing 
15  drachm,  offered  by  Axiothea,  wife  of  Socles;  two  gem-signets 
in  one  gold  ring;  two  signets  in  silver  rings  [incised  in  them], 
one  of  them  plated  with  gold  ;  seven  signets  of  coloured  glass 
[paste  gems]  plated  with  gold  ;  eight  silver  rings,  and  one 
gold  coin  without  alloy  [probably  a  daric,  thus  distinguished 
from  the  debased  Cyzicene  stater,  the  only  Greek  gold 
currency  of  the  period] ;  a  gold  ringx  with  one  gold  coin  tied 
to  it  [probably  fastened  to  the  ring  by  a  loop,  to  serve  for 
ornamental  jewel,  in  the  manner  of  the  Victory  scarabaeoid  in 
our  list],  offered  by  Phryniscus  the  Thessalian  ;  a  plain  gold 
ring  of  half  a  drachm,  offered  by  Pletho  of  .-Kgina  [clearly  a 
'widow's  mite'];  five  earrings  in  tin,  offered  by  Thaumarete." 

In  reading  this  catalogue,  we  cannot  fail  to  be  struck  with 
the  similarity  in  nature  of  the  offerings  treasured  up  in  two 
shrines  so  wide  apart.  In  both,  the  same  absence  of  the  true 
precious  stones  is  conspicuous  ;  even  the  onyx  is  estimated  by 
weight,  as  are  diamonds  and  rubies  now-a-days  ;  the  plasma 
is  yet  more  rare  :  both  kinds  are  worn  unengraved  ;  coloured 


386  APPENDIX. 

pastes  are  accounted  worthy  offerings  to  the  "national  deity; 
\ve  find  in  both,  the  plating  of  silver  with  gold  to  augment  show 
and  diminish  cost ;  and  the  same  distinction  between  rings 
engraved  for  signets  and  those  designed  for  merely  ornamental 
wear.  But  the  unnamed  goddess  of  Curium  could  boast  of 
great  superiority  over  her  sister  of  Athens,  both  in  the  quantity 
and  intrinsic  value  of  the  offerings  at  her  shrine,  unless  indeed 
Boeckh's  Inscription  only  comprises  a  limited  time. 

In  addition  to  the  Temple  Treasure,  the  same  locality  has 
furnished  a  very  interesting  gem.  It  is  a  sard,  bearing  in 
front-face  a  head  with  very  bushy  hair,  arranged  in  two  great 
clusters  at  the  sides,  and  with  long  beard,  the  whole  disposi- 
tion giving  it  the  appearance  (though  not  intended)  of  a  bunch 
of  grapes.  But  on  comparing  the  figure  with  the  heads  in 
profile,  or  in  full-face,  on  the  coinc  of  the  two  Jubas  of 
Xumidia,  representing  the  national  god  Balsamus  or  Baal- 
samen,  "  lord  of  the  heavens,"  there  can  be  little  doubt  as  to 
their  all  expressing  the  same  idea.  As  the  Xumidians  must 
necessarily  have  derived  what  little  art  they  had  from  their 
Carthaginian  neighbours,  the  appearance  of  the  Punic  deity  on 
a  gem  of  Cypriote  workmanship  is  easily  accounted  for.  Its 
style  belongs  to  too  early  a  period  for  the  head  to  be  supposed 
the  portrait  of  any  mortal  personage,  though  it  has,  naturally 
enough,  been  pronounced  a  contemporary  likeness  of  Zeno 
himself.  A  legend  in  Cypriote  cuneiform  surrounds  it,  which 
has  not  hitherto  been  interpreted,  but  certainly  follows  the  rule 
with  Phcenician  legends  in  such  connection,  and  expresses  the 
name  of  the  man  who  seals.  This  gem  was  picked  up  many 
years  back,  and  the  finder,  struck  with  the  beauty  of  the  sard, 
caused  his  own  name  to  be  cut  in  Arabic  on  the  reverse,  and 
set  it,  with  the  original  intaglio  downwards,  in  his  signet  ring. 
A  large  amethyst,  of  remarkable  colour  and  brilliancy,  is  set  in 
an  elaborately  decorated  and  heavy  gold  ring,  of  somewhat 
barbarous  workmanship,  and  of  much  later  date  than  any  above 
described.  The  collet  is  rudely  overlaid  with  filigree  patterns, 
and  the  shoulders  of  the  shank  are  carved  into  caryatid  figures, 
of  what  meaning  it  is  difficult  to  discover — a  fashion  that  only 
came  in  under  the  Roman  empire.  There  are  also  some 
examples  of  slight  gold  rings,  with  that  frequent  formula  EO 
AFAWil  engraved  on  the  face.  Its  sense,  "  for  good  luck,"* 

*   Not  '•  For  the  good  child,''  as  an  eminent  dactyliologist  of  our  times  has 
thought  proper  to  translate  it. 


TREASURE    OF    CURIUM. 


387 


proves  the  destination  of  the  jewels,  as  being-  either  espousal 
rings,  birthday  presents,  or  New  Year's  gifts.  These  came 
from  the  adjacent  cemetery. 

It  would  be  truly  ungrateful  to  conclude  my  notice  of  this, 
by  far  the  most  important  portion  of  the  Treasure  of  Curium, 
without  invoking  a  blessing  upon  the  memory  of  its  ancient 
guardian,  who,  when  he  could  see  no  hope  of  escape  from  the 
barbarian  iconoclasts  then  pressing  the  siege,  so  ingeniously 
concealed  from  their  search  his  sacred  trust,  for  the  instruction 
and  enjoyment  of  an  age  separated  by  four  and  twenty  centuries 
from  his  own. 

TRIN.  COLL.  CAM., 

Nov.  20,  1876. 


DESCRIPTION    OF    THE    PLATES    OF    GEMS. 

N.  B.  All  the  works  in  the  Assyrian  style  are  drawn  to  the 
actual  size  ;  but  those  in  the  Egyptian,  Phoenician  and  Greek, 
to  double.  The  numerals  refer  to  the  description  of  the  gems, 
under  their  respective  headings,  in  the  Treasure  of  Curium  ; 
the  letters  annexed  in  some  few  cases,  indicate  those  acci- 
dentally omitted,  and  left  to  be  noticed  in  the  following  list. 

PLATES  XXXI — XXXIII.  Nos.  i,  2,  3,  have  been  fully  des- 
cribed in  the  text  :  of  the  others  a  detailed  account  would  be  a 
tedious  series  of  repetitions.  The  same  general  idea  pervades 
them  all  ;  rude  figures  of  deities,  their  sacred  animals,  the  Horn 
Tree,  and  the  worshipper.  Barbarous  as  they  are  in  execution, 
they  are  yet  of  the  greatest  interest  to  the  student  of  the  art, 
for  it  is  evident  that  the  majority  are  of  local  manufacture, 
and  convincingly  declare  from  what  source  the  Cypriote 
engravers,  atterwards  so  celebrated,  derived  the  rudiments  of 
their  knowledge.  The  material  is  generally  green  serpentine, 
an  easily  worked  stone,  but  susceptible  of  a  fine  polish,  and 
the  designs  were  incised,  as  is  apparent  upon  examination, 
simply  by  the  means  of  a  splinter  of  obsidian,  the  use  of  which 
for  such  purposes  is  noticed  by  Herodotus  (VII.  69). 


388  APPENDIX. 

PLATE  XXXI V.     Gold  rin^s,  and  engraved  ornaments, 
Xos.  i,  2,  3,  4,  are  described  under  "  Gold  rings." 

5.  Andro-sphinx,  in  the  Phoenician  style. 

6.  Egyptian  figure,  kneeling,  bearing  up  a  large  blank  car- 
touche.  This  unmeaning  ornament,  equivalent  to  a  blank  shield 
in  heraldry,  proves  this  tvpe  to  be  merely  imitative  Phoenician. 
Delicately  incised  upon  the  surface  of  a  fibula.      Drawn  to  the 
actual  size. 

7.  Rectangular  space,   divided  into  eight  compartments,  of 
which  the   upper  row  contains  two   seated,  and   two   standing 
figures  :  in  those   below,  the  figure  of  the  sun.  and  indistinct 
symbols  can  be  traced.    Rudely  incised  and  indented,  apparently 
in  imitation  of  the  Assyrian  style.      Drawn  to  the  actual  size. 

PLATE  XXXV.  a.  \Yarrior,  going  to  battle  in  his  car.  at  the 
side  is  slung  a  great  quiver  of  arrows.  A  very  interesting  type, 
for  though  the  manner  of  the  engraving  is  altogether  Egyptian, 
yet  it  may  represent  the  war-chariots  in  which  Herodotus  tells 
us  lay  the  strength  of  the  Salaminians. 

PLATE  XXXVI.  a.  Two  men,  in  regular  Assyrian  costume, 
standing  on  either  side  and  grasping  each  a  branch  of  the  Tree 
of  Life.  An  exquisite  specimen  of  Phoenician  lapidary  art ;  for 
the  authorship  is  placed  out  of  doubt  by  the  exact  agreement  of 
the  group  with  one  of  those  upon  the  Amathus  patera  ip.  279), 
placed  directb"  below  the  picture  of  the  beleaguered  city. 

PLATE  XXXVIII.  23.  The  Leaf,  to  which  attention  has  been 
called  in  the  text,  will  be  found  repeatedly  introduced  in  the 
decoration  of  the  Curium  patera  (p.  329).  A  similar  object 
often  appears  in  the  Mithraic  tablets  of  much  later  date  :  where 
it  is  explained  as  a  cypress-tree,  emblem  of  the  element.  Fire. 
Whatever  its  significance,  the  sanctity  of  the  idea  conveyed  is 
evinced  by  its  forming  the  sole  device  borne  by  so  many  signet 
rings,  to  be  noticed  in  the  continuation — 

a.  Two  men.  with  elevated  hands,  facing  each  other.  The 
two  pellets  in  the  exergue,  standing  for  stars,  emblems  of 
divinity,  render  it  probable  that  these  figures  are  the  Cabin. 
Very  roughly  engraved. 

/>.  Crane  walking  :  in  the  field  above,  a  lizard  :  in  front,  a 
plant.  Barbarous  execution. 

c.   Gryphon,  with  wings  spread  :   in  front,  the  crux  ansata. 


DESCRIPTION    OF    THE    PLATES    OE     GEMS.          389 

d.  Bull,  standing  under  a  tree  ;  in  front  a  large  disk  repre- 
senting the  sun  :  the  bull  being  the  attribute  of  Belus. 

PLATE  XL,  u.  After  long  consideration  of  this  singular  type, 
I  come  to  the  conclusion  that  the  artist  had  in  his  mind  Phi- 
loctetes  just  stung  by  the  serpent,  and  clapping  his  hand,  by  a 
natural  gesture,  to  the  bitten  part.  He  supports  himself  upon 
the  "mighty  bow"  of  his  late  master,  Hercules  (which  accounts 
for  its  length,  so  far  superior  to  that  of  the  ordinary  Grecian 
bow),  the  hiding-place  \vhereofhe  had  betrayed  to  the  Greeks, 
in  spite  of  his  oath  to  the  dying  hero,  and  therefore  received 
his  due  reward  from  the  heaven-sent  asp.  The  subject,  from 
the  moral  it  conveys,  was  a  favourite  one  with  the  Greco- 
Italians  of  this  very  period,  although  in  other  examples  the 
sense  is  generally  better  denned  by  the  addition  of  the  actual 
serpent,  and  the  overturned  altars  under  which  the  weapons 
had  been  buried.  Or,  if  a  naturalistic  sense  seem  more  in 
character  with  the  style  of  art ;  we  may  see  here  only  a 
shepherd  extracting  a  thorn  from  his  foot ;  an  equally  popular 
subject  with  both  sculptors  and  gem-engravers. 

PLATI^:  XLI.  Gems,  and  incised  gold  signets,  from  various 
localities.  Those  with  numbers  annexed  are  described  in  Gen. 
di  Cesnola's  additional  list. 

a.  The   Head  of  Baal,  found  at  Curium,  noticed  at  length, 
in  page  386.      It  may  be  remarked  here,  that  the  characters 
of  the  legend  bear  more  resemblance  to  the  Xumidian   Punic, 
than  to  the  Cypriote  cuneiform.      Semitic  scholars,  acting  up- 
on   this    hint,    may    perhaps    succeed    in    solving    the,  as  yet, 
puzzling  enigma. 

b.  Minerva,  grounding  arms  ;  the  tall  cross  behind  her,  may 
be  intended  for  a  trophy.     Slight  work  of  the  Roman  epoch. 

c.  Xemesis,  winged  and   helmeted,  resting  her  hand  upon  a 
yoke,  with  the  same  signification   as  the  bridle,  so  often  seen  in 
her  hand.     Slight  work  of  the  same  date. 


LIST    OF    ENGRAVED    GEMS 

FOUND      AT      DIFFERENT      PLACES      IN      CYPRUS 

1.  Silver    ring"    with     engraved    carnelian    representing    a 
warrior  :  found   in  a  tornb  at  Tremitissa,  the  ancient  Tremi- 
thus.      (Mars,  leaning  on  his  spear,  and  grounding  his  shield, 
rt$e'ju.eros  ra  o'-Aa.      Rude  work  ;   late  Greek). 

2.  Gold  ring,  set  with  a  carnelian  ;  found  in  a  tomb  with 
glass  vases  at  Aphrodisium.   (Bacchus  leaning  against  a  cippus, 
caressing  his  panther.     Fine  Greek  work  ;  figured  PL  xli.  2.) 

3.  Sard,   not  mounted,   from   a  tomb    at   Golgos.     (Female 
head,  with  the  hair  done  up  in  a  small  chignon  :  apparently  a 
paste  from  a  fine  Greek  intaglio.) 

4.  Carnelian,  not  set,  from  a  tomb  at  Throni.      (Esculapius 
and  Hygeia  :  bold  work  of  the  Roman  period.     PL  xli.  4.) 

5.  Fine  gold  ring,  set  with   an  engraved  carbuncle  :  from  a 
tomb    at     Golgos.       (Goddess,    standing,     with    cornucopia  : 
barbarous  style.) 

6.  Gold  ring,  with  engraved  sard  ;   found  with  glass  vases  in 
a    tomb    at    Idalium.      (Nemesis,    in    the    later    Greek    style. 
Figured  at  page  392.) 

7.  Gold    ring,    with    carnelian ;     from    Idalium.      (Standing 
figure  ;  merely  scratched  in.) 

8.  Rock-crystal,  not  set,  from  Amathus.     (Raven,  standing 
before   a   bay-tree  :    behind  is    placed  a   spray  of  some  other 
tree.     Bold,  good  Greek  work.) 

().  Bronze  ring,  with  carnelian;  from  Amathus.  (Female 
centaur,  advancing,  with  hand  extended,  carrying  a  branch  of 
a  tree  on  the  shoulder.  Sketchy,  late  GreeL) 

10.  Gold,  massive,  ring,  incised  with  the   ''  Ground   plan   of 
the  Temple  of  Paphos  ;  "    as  antiquaries  designate  this  curious 
object  ;  perhaps,  a  sacerdotal  vestment.      PL  xli.  20. 

11.  (.old,  massive,  ring,  set   with   a  green   iridescent    paste. 
(Tall    amphora,  of  elegant  form  ;    moulded  from  a  fine   Greek 
intaglio.) 


ENGRAVED     GEMS     AND     RINGS.  391 

12.  Gold  ring,  set  with  a  carnelian.     (Cupid,  condemned  to 
hard  labour,  leaning  on   his   mattock.     Pretty  work,  in  a  late 
Greek  style.) 

13.  Carnelian  of   unusual   appearance  ;    perhaps    carbuncle. 
(Venus,  leaning  on  a  cippus,  holding  forth  an  alabastron.     Bold, 
unfinished,  Greek  work.) 

14.  Gold   ring,  set  with  carnelian.      (Goddess  standing  ;  of 
the  usual  barbarous  work  characterising  these  mortuary  rings.) 

15.  Gold  ring,  set  with  a  carnelian.      (Apollo,  leaning  on  a 
cippus,  holding  out  his  bow.     Sketchy,  late  Greek.) 

16.  Gold,  massive,  ring  ;  set  with  a  cameo  of  a  nude  female 
figure,    probably    Venus,    in    paste.      The    relief   is    in    white 
upon   a  blue   ground,  as   in  the    Portland  vase,   and    is   finely 
executed.     (Apparently  a  Venus  Victrix,  from  an  original,  in  a 
very  grand  style.) 

17.  Gold    ring,    with    carnelian.     (Fortune    standing,    with 
cornucopia,  and  rudder  :   late  Greek.) 

18.  Gold,    massive,    ring,   with  incised  device.      (  "  Ground 
plan  of  Temple  of  Paphos,"  as  in  No  10,  but  very  sketchy.) 

19.  Gold  ring  with   sard.     (Fortune,   with   her   usual   attri- 
butes :  good  style.) 

20.  Gold,  massive,  ring,  with  incised  device.      (A  dove  flying 
(?)  in  very  rude  outline.     PI.  xli.  10.) 

21.  Carnelian,    not    mounted.      (Goddess    standing:    in    the 
usual  sketchy  style.) 

22.  Double  gold  ring,  with  the  sacred  Leaf  (or  tree)  incised 
upon  each  beasel.      Plate  xli.  22. 

23.  Massive  gold  ring,  with   Egyptian  device,  the  orb  sup- 
ported by  the  double   asp,  in   relief;   of  very  bold   and   early 
workmanship. 

24.  Bronze  ring,  with   carnelian.      (A   Scorpion — an   amulet 
against  its  bite.) 

25.  Gold  ring,  set  with  carnelian.      (Comic  Mask,  in  profile: 
very  slight  work.) 

26.  Double  gold  ring,  incised  on  each  beasel  with  the  sacred 
Leaf  (or  tree)  as  before,  but  larger,  and  in  a  much  ruder  manner. 

27.  Gold  ring,  set  with  a  garnet.      (Female  figure,  standing, 
with   right   hand   raised   in   adoration,    a  wand   in    the   other ; 
sketch}'  rude  work,  but  better  than  usual  in  this  material.) 

28.  Silver  ring,   set  with    an    onyx.      (Dog  chasing  a  fawn  : 
the    device    on    the    brooch    of    Ulysses.      Neat,    late    Greek 
work.) 

n  n 


392 


APPENDIX. 


29.  Carnclian  scarabcoicl,  not  mounted.  (Hercules  the 
Archer  ;  PI.  xli.  29.  Fine,  early  Greek  work,  of  high  merit. 
The  action  of  the  figure  is  very  remarkable  ;  the  arrow  being 
represented  as  released  from  the  hand,  and  just  quitting  the 
bowstring,  which  can  only  be  accounted  for  by  the  supposition 
that  we  have  here  a  copy  from  a  bronze  statue,  doubtless  of 
great  celebrity  at  the  time.) 

jo.  Gold  ring,  with  incised  device  ;  "  Temple  of  Paphos," 
as  before. 

31.  Gold  ring,  incised  with  the  good  wish,  EH   AFA0W  :   of 
which    there    are    six    or    seven    examples    in    the    collection. 
(Shown  by  the  form  of  the   letters  to  belong  to  the  Roman 
period.) 

32.  Gold,  massive,  ring,  with  incised  device  (entirely  oblite- 
rated, seemingly  by  design). 

33.  Gold,   massive,   ring,    with    incised    device.       (The    two 
sacred  Leaves,  as  before). 

34.  A  seal-ring,  gold  mounting,   in   blr.e  glass  :  the  back  is 
represented  by  a  lion   in  high   relief,   couchant.     (Cartouche, 
containing  hieroglyphics,  illegible.) 

35.  Bronze   ring,   set    with    an    onyx.      (Cupid    bestriding  a 
dolphin  :  minute  intaglio  of  the  Roman  period.) 


Nemesis,  sard.,  klaliuni. 


PLATE    XXXI. 


CESNOLA     GEMS      PLATE 


w 


y 

\ 


m 


CUKH'.M    TRF.ASURK.     ASSYRIAN    STYLE 


PLATE     XXXII. 


CESNOLA     GEMS,     PLATE     II. 


•flk   >/)  ^M^F 


_ 


CURIUM    'J'KKASURK.     ASSYRIAN     bTVLK. 


PLATE     XXXIII. 


CESNOLA     GCMS,     PLATE     III 


[C   TA^ 


crcri 


CURIUM    TREASURE.— ASSYRIAN    STVLK. 


PLATE     XXXIV. 


CESNOLA     GEMS.     PLATE     IV. 


•>•  r 

n 


'-  \ 


0) 


CURIUM     TREASURE.-  -INCISED    IN    THK    (iol.l). 


PLATE    XXXV. 


CESNOLA    GEMS,     PLATE    V". 


I 


CURIUM    TREASURE.  — EGYPTIAN     STYLE. 


PLATE     XXXVI. 


CESNOLA     GEMS,     PLATE     VI. 


CURIUM   TREASURE. -PHOENICIAN    STYLE. 


PLATE     XXXVII. 


CESNOLA     GEMS,     PLATE     VM. 


CURIKM    TREASURE.  — PHOENICIAN    s'lYMv 


PLATE     XXXVIII. 


CESNOLA     GEMS,     PLA^E     VII1, 


CTKIUM     TREASURE.— PHXKXICIAN     STYI. 


PLATE    XXXIX. 


CESNOLA     GEMS,     PLATE     IX. 


CURIUM    TREASURE.— GREEK    STYLE. 


PLAT::   XL. 


CESNOLA     GEMS,     PLATE     X. 


CURIUM     TREASURE.— GREEK    STYL 


PLATE    XLI, 


CESNOLA      GEMS.      PLATE      XI. 


(1KMS     FROM     VARIOUS    LOCALITIES     IN    CYPRUS. 


ON   THE   POTTERY   OF   CYPRUS 

BY    A.   S.    MURRAY. 


Among  the  many  vases  discovered  by  General  Cesnola  in 
Cyprus  which  present  entirely  new  features  in  the  history  of 
ancient  pottery,  there  is,  perhaps,  no  class  so  striking  as  that 
represented  by  the  three  vases  given  here  (figs,  i,  2,  3),  and  a 
fourth  on  p.  55.  To  begin  with  the  last  mentioned,  where 
the  design  is  that  of  two  goats  standing  confronted,  with  a 
decorated  pattern  between  them.  This  pattern,  of  which 
another  variety  will  be  seen  in  fig.  3,  is  the  same,  whatever  it 
may  signify,  as  occurs  on  the  patera  from  Curium  (p.  329), 
where  it  is  also  employed  to  separate  groups  of  confronted 
figures,  and  thus  performs  the  same  function  as  the  sacred 
tree  on  Assyrian  reliefs,  with  which  it  has  indeed  so  close  a 
resemblance  that  Helbig,  speaking  of  the  patera  of  Curium 
(Annali  d'  Inst.  Arch.  icS/6,  p.  6),  calls  this  pattern  simply  the 
Assyrian  sacred  tree,  it  is,  however,  to  be  observed,  that  on 
this  patera  it  occurs  five  times  between  groups  obviously 
Egyptian  in  figure,  dress,  and  subject  of  representation,  on 
which  account  one  might  at  first  suppose  it  to  be  an  Egyptian 
form  of  ornament.  Hut  it  is  not  so  in  any  respect.  Looking 
closer  at  the  patera  we  see  that  it  presents  also  very  distinct 
Assyrian  elements  in  its  design,  and  thus;  while  there  is  every 
reason  to  suppose  that  the  makers  of  the  silver  patera  and  of 
the  vases  on  p.  55  and  No.  3,  had  borrowed  the  sacred  tree 
from  Assyria,  it  is  no  less  clear  that  they  had  at  the  same 
time  borrowed  very  conspicuous  elements  in  their  designs 
from  the  Egyptians,  and  had  combined  these  different  elements 
into  a  peculiar  phase  of  decoration.  The  one  people  in 
antiquity  who  affected  this  combination  has  been  made  out  by 


394 


APPENDIX. 


Helbig  in  his  researches,  published  in  the  Annali  quoted  above, 
to  be  the  Phoenicians,  or,  as  he  thinks,  with  a  view  to  the 
objects  found  in  Italy  and  Sardinia,  the  western  branch  of  that 
race,  whom  we  know  as  the  Carthaginians.  It  does  not,  of 
course,  follow  that  in  all  the  works  of  the  Phoenicians  the  two 
elements  of  Assyrian  and  Egyptian  art  should  be  equally 
blended.  If  it  were  so,  the  vase  of  which  we  are  speaking- 


(p.  55)  could  not  be  called  Phoenician,  since  the  animals  on 
it.  as  well  as  the  tree,  have  a  decided  Assyrian  character,  and 
altogether  there  is  nothing  on  it  which  may  not  be  traced  to 
Assyrian  influence.  The  rosettes  placed  on  the  fore  and  hind 
quarters  of  the  goats  are  such  as  occur  frequently  on  the 
Assyrian  reliefs,  while  the  oblong  tablets  let  into  the  side  of 
each  seem  to  me  to  contain  an  inscription  which  the  painter 
has  only  roughly  indicated.  A  precisely  similar  tablet  may  be 


PLATE     XLII. 


Fig.  A. 


Fig.  5- 


POTTERY. 


397 


seen  on  a  Cyprus  vase  in  the  British  Museum,  on  which  it  is 
let  into  the  side  of  one  of  the  horses  in  a  chariot  group,  which 
is  very  distinctly  Assyrian  in  the  attitude  of  the  horse,  shape 
of  chariot,  charioteer,  and  bowman,  who  turns  and  draws  his 
bow  behind,  while  the  horse  gallops.  Assuming  these  tablets 
to  represent  writing,  we  must  suppose  it  to  be  Assyrian  writing, 
and  to  be  analogous  to  the  hieroglyphics  which  occur  on 
similar  oblong  tablets  on  the  patera  of  Curium,  and  other 
paterae  of  the  same  class.  It  may  be  mentioned  that  cuneiform 
inscriptions  arranged  in  oblong  spaces  are  of  not  uncommon 
occurrence  on  the  sculptures  of  Assyria.  Or,  again,  these 
tablets  may  correspond  to  the  cartouches  with  hieroglyphics 
which  frequently  occur  on  the  silver  vases  of  Phoenician  work. 
We  may  then  conclude  that  the  Cesnola  vase  (p.  55),  and  very 
probably  also  the  vase  in  the  British  Museum,  are  Phoenician 
products  under  distinctly  Assyrian  influence.  Of  the  other 
three  vases,  however,  i  and  2  have  each  a  clearly  Egyptian 
figure  as  their  chief  ornament.  In  both,  the  dress,  the  collar, 
and  the  type  of  figure  are  Egyptian  ;  not  so,  the  rudely 
modelled  head  on  the  mouth  of  fig.  i,  which  seems  neither 
Egyptian  nor  Assyrian,  but  resembles  rather  the  work  of  a 
potter  unfettered  by  any  traditional  style. 

The  patterns  on  the  sides  of  both  these  vases  are  not  Egyptian, 
nor  necessarily  even  Assyrian,  but  belong  rather  to  the  kind  of 
decoration  called  by  Conze  Indo-European,  and  supposed  by 
him  to  have  been  brought  into  Europe  by  the  Indo-European 
race.  \Yhether  he  is  right,  or  whether  Helbig  (Annali  d'  Inst. 
Arch.  1875,  p.  221)  is  not  more  correct  in  believing  these 
patterns  to  have  been  learned  by  the  Indo-European  race, 
after  its  settlement  in  Europe,  through  commerce  with  the 
East,  it  seems  to  be  agreed  that  the  pattern  of  concentric 
circles  such  as  on  fig.  2  is  a  pattern  which  had  been  developed 
in  the  process  of  metal  working.  An  example  of  the  profuse 
application  of  it  to  bronze  work,  may  be  seen  in  the  two 
discs  found  at  Tarquinii.  and  engraved  in  the  Monument! 
d'  Inst.  Arch.  X,  pi.  10.  The  guilloche  pattern  on  the  vase 
fig.  i.  and  the  fragment  of  it  between  the  feet  of  the  figure 
on  vase  2,  has  had  its  origin  in  the  process  of  plaiting,  and 
it  may  be  remarked  that  the  habit  of  filling  up  otherwise 
vacant  spaces  on  vases  by  means  of  fragments  of  patterns 
(guilloche.  wave  pattern,  meander)  is  very  frequent  on  the  early 
potter\'  of  Camirus  in  the?  British  Museum  (see  also  Conze, 


3Q8  APPENDIX. 

Anfange  d'  Gricch.  KunsO.  As  regards  patterns  which  have 
been  evolved  out  of  purely  industrial  processes,  it  can  hardly 
be  possible  to  trace  their  origin  to  one  particular  race,  unless 
these  processes  themselves  can  also  be  traced  to  the  same 
people.  One  might,  perhaps,  without  much  risk,  eliminate  the 
Egyptian,  but  as  to  the  Assyrian  and  Phoenician,  it  would 
be  impossible  to  assign  priority  to  either,  seeing  that  both 
nations  were,  from  the  earliest  antiquity,  skilled  in  industrial  art. 

In  these  two  vases  there  is  to  be  noted  also  a  peculiarity  of 
a  considerable  class  of  Cyprus  vases,  the  arrangement  of 
patterns  in  vertical  bands  over  the  vase  instead  of  horizontally 
round  it,  as  usual  on  ancient  pottery.  That  the  shape  of  the  vase 
is  destroyed  by  this  vertical  arrangement  need  scarcely  be 
pointed  out,  when  one  remembers  the  consistency  with  which 
the  Greeks  adhered  to  the  horizontal  bands,  and  so  presented 
one  of  many  instances  in  which  they  appear  as  knowing 
instinctively,  the  right  principle  of  ornament.  This  is  as  much 
the  case  in  the  earliest  Athenian  vases  with  geometric  patterns, 
as  on  the  latest  with  designs  of  figures.  Such  an  application 
of  ornament  as  that  on  vases  i  and  2,  may  be  the  result  of  a 
mere  seeking  after  novelty.  It  could  hardly  have  been  allowed  in 
any  truly  vital  stage  of  the  art  of  pottery.  Possibly  there  never 
was  in  Cyprus  any  such  vital  stage  of  the  art.  At  any  rate, 
that  island  has  not  yielded  any  specimens  which  show  any 
special  process  of  development.  It  has  been  suggested  that  the 
system  of  decoration  by  numerous  vertical  concentric  circles  so 
frequent  in  Cyprus  {tottery,  may  have  been  adopted  to  imitate 
vases  of  wood  in  which  the  grain  was  visible  :  but  I  do  not  see 
that  a  wood  vase  need  show  its  grain  vertically,  rather  than  hori- 
zontally, in  which  latter  way  it  would  suit  the  form  of  the  vase. 

According  to  the  usual  explanation  of  its  early  stages,  vase 
painting  began  with  geometric  patterns  (developed  in  industrial 
processes*  passed  to  figures  of  animals  and  plants  (under 
Oriental  influence)  and  then  reached  the  human  figure,  at 
winch  point,  it  is  argued  the  Greeks  took  up  the  art  seriously, 
and  exhibited  their  full  powers.  But  in  the  two  vases  u  and  2), 
\\  e  have  a  combination  of  human  figure  and  geometric  pattern, 
that  is,  a  combination  of  the  first  and  the  third  stages  of  the  art. 
At  the  same  time  the  patterns  are  drawn  very  clearly  and 
accurately,  while  the  figures  are  next  to  being  grotesque,  an  1 
from  this  it  might  perhaps  bi-  inferred  that  the  potter  had 
had  much  experience  of  the  former,  and  little  of  the  latter. 


PLATE    XLIII. 


POTTERY. 


401 


which  would  confirm  the  opinion  that  the  patterns  came  before, 
if  not  immediately  before,  the  human  figure.  This  pattern,  how- 
ever, of  concentric  circles  arranged  in  rows  lasted  for  bronze 
work  down  to  Roman  times,  and  can  hardly  alone  be  used 
as  evidence  of  the  antiquity  of  the  vases  on  which  it  occurs. 
Altogether  the  pottery  of  Cyprus  is  singularly  wanting  in  the 
means  of  determining  its  date.  In  itself,  it  presents  only  a  very 


few  successive  stages;  nor  can  it  be  positively  said  to  have  come 
under  the  influences  which  determined  the  various  more  or  less 
well  defined  stages  of  Creek  vase  painting.  There  are.  it  is  true. 
in  the  Cesnola  collection  the  great  vase  engraved  pi.  xxix.. 
and  another  from  Curium  with  black  figures  representing 
Hercules  and  the  Xemean  lion,  with  Greek  inscriptions,  Xo.  3.2, 
but  these  are  so  distinctly  Creek,  and  so  different  from  the  rest 
of  the  Cyprus  pottery,  that  we  must  suppose  them  to  have  been 

F  F 


402 


APPENDIX. 


imported  casually.       On  the  other  hand,   there  is  a  small  class 
of  vases  which  if  they  do  not   show  the  influence  of  the  Greek 


Fig.  ii. 


potter,  show  at  least  the  influence  of  Greek  sculpture.     I  mean 
the  vases  represented  by  Nos.  6,  7,  8,  on  each  of  which  is  a 


Fig.    12. 


bust  of  a  female  figure  modelled    in    the  round,  and  holding  an 
cenochoii    which   forms   the   spout   of  the  vase.       On  a  vase   of 


POTTERY,  403 

this  kind  now  in  the  British  Museum  the  bust  is  modelled  in  a 
style  of  perfect  freedom,  as  regards  the  features,  hair,  and  chiton, 
such  as  is  understood  to  have  been  arrived  at,  for  the  first  time 
in  Greece,  in  the  time  of  Pheidias.  On  these  vases  the  painted 
ornament  is  very  simple  and  correct  in  its  application;  but  the 
colours,  which  are  bright  and  contrasted,  are  not  such  as  we  find 
in  Greek  vase  painting  at  any  stage.  Figs.  4,  5,9,  10,  n,maybe 
ruder  but  need  not  be  much  earlier  specimens  of  this  class. 

Together  with  the  vases  on  which  the  human  figure  or  parts 
of  it   are   modelled,   should  be  noticed   those  in  the    form   of 
animals,   rude  in   appearance  and  generally  ornamented  with 
simple  linear  patterns  painted   on  the  clay  (see  p.  98).      It  is 
very  possible  that  they  belong  to  an  earlier  period  than   the 
previous   class  ;    but   how   early   is    a   difficult  question.     The 
nearest    comparison    to    them,  and,   indeed,    to    the    Cypriote 
vases  in  general  which   I  have  seen,  is  the  pottery  found  in  an 
Etruscan  tomb  at  Tarquinii,  and  engraved  in  the  Monumenti 
d'  Inst.  Arch.  X,  pi.  ioc,  where  there  is  one  vase  in  the  shape 
of  an  animal  and  painted  with  rude  figures  of  geese,  two  paterae 
with  triangles  and  elementary  meander  patterns  cut  out  through 
the  clay,  and  a  vase  with  patterns  of  circles,  all  of  which,  if  found 
in  Cyprus  would  be  accepted  without  the  slightest  question,  so 
completely  in  keeping  are  they  with  vases  in  the  Cesnola  collec- 
tion.   Along  with  them  were  found  two  bronze  discs  (loc.  cit.  pi. 
10)  richly  ornamented  with  rows  of  concentric  circles,  identical 
in  aspect  with  many  of  the  Cyprus  vases,  though,  of  course,  the 
pattern  correctly  applied  to  the  flat  surface  of  a  disc,  cannot 
appear  equally  so  on  the  globular  body  of  a  vase.    These  articles, 
though  found  in  an  Etruscan  tomb,  cannot  be  supposed  to  be 
of  Etruscan  fabric  in  our  present  state  of  knowledge.     On  the 
other  hand  there  is  no  difficulty  in,  and  there  is  plenty  of  analog} 
for,   assuming  them   to   have  been  imported  from   Phoenician 
traders,  and  if  imported  from  the  Phoenicians  it  will  remain  to 
be  settled  whether  this  importation  was  made  at  the  time  of  the 
Carthaginian  contact  with  Italy,  or  at  an  earlier  period  through 
commerce  with  the  Phoenicians  of  the  East.     If  Helbig  is  right 
in  tracing  the  silver  patera:  and  other  antiquities  from   Caere, 
Prameste,  and  elsewhere  in  Italy  to  Carthaginian  times,  there 
would  for  the  present  be  a  presumption  in  favour  of  accepting 
the  same  date  for  the  pottery  from  Tarquinii,  and   this  would 
necessarily    also    apply  to  the  vases  of   the   same   class  from 
Cyprus,  just  as  the  date  for  the  silver  patera;  from  Ca;re  and 


404 


APPENDIX. 


Praeneste,  holds  good  for  the  silver  paterae  from  Curium  and 
elsewhere  in  Cyprus. 

With  the  exception  of  several  vases  which  have  been 
pointed  out  as  either  being  purely  Greek,  or  as  exhibiting 
the  influence  of  Greek  sculpture,  the  rest  of  the  pottery  of 


Cyprus,  though  varied  to  some  extent  in  its  ornament,  is  yet 
sufficiently  homogeneous  in  its  material,  colours,  shapes,  and 
technical  skill,  as  to  be  fairly  regarded  as  the  work  of  a  people 
in  whom  there  was  no  really  vital  progress  in  the  potter's  art. 
Reference  has  been  made  to  the  results  of  Helbig  as  showing 


this  people  to  have  been  the  Phoenicians,  and  here  I  may  add 
that  the  vase  engraved,  p.  6S.  has  a  Phoenician  inscription  burnt 
in  on  the  clay.  It  may.  therefore,  be  taken  to  be  a  Phoenician 
production,  and.  if  it  is  a  fair  type  of  any  class  of  vases  found 
in  Cyprus,  but  without  inscriptions,  we  may  conclude  that 
the}'  also  are  of  Phoenician  fabric.  It  is  certainly  typical  of  a 
considerable  class,  and  considering  that  this  class  introduces  a 


POTTERY. 


405 


different  system  of  geometric  ornamentation  from  that  of  the 
concentric  circles  and  guilloches  already  remarked  as  pre- 
sumably Phoenician,  \ve  obtain  altogether  a  very  great  prepon- 
derance in  the  number  of  Cypriote  vases  as  claiming  to  be  of 
Phoenician  fabric.  This  new  system  of  decoration,  of  which 


I  am  speaking,  consists  mainly  of  lozenges  and  chequers 
arranged  in  horizontal  and  vertical  bands.  On  the  vases. 
p.  68  and  fig.  29,  and  on  many  others,  this  ornament  is  kept 
pure  and  'unmixed,  and  except  for  the  cley,  the  colours 
employed,  and  the  shape  of  the  vase,  they  occasionally 
resemble  closely  specimens  of  the  early  geometric  ware  found 
at  Athens.  On  the  other  hand,  it  is  not  rare  to  find  this 


406 


APPENDIX. 


ornament  mixed  with  animal  forms,  as  on  vase  15,  where, 
however,  it  is  clear  that  the  hand  which  traced  the  figure  of 
the  swan  could  not  escape  from  its  habit  of  drawing  geometric 
lines.  The  body  of  the  swan  is  nearly  a  circle,  and  its  wings 
are  two  triangles.  On  vases  17,  18,  and  20,  there  is  rather 
less  of  this  geometric  influence  ;  but  still  it  is  there.  The 
animals  generally  chosen  on  Cyprus  pottery  are  swans,  or  at 
any  rate,  aquatic  birds.  The  swan  may  have  had  some 
svmbolic  signification  which  determined  its  use  on  the  vases 


Fig.    22. 


Fig.  23. 


to  the  exclusion  of  other  animals,  and  to  some  such  reason  the 
absence  of  quadrupeds,  for  example,  may  be  due.  This  latter 
fact,  however,  deserves  attention  in  view  of  the  prevailing 
theory,  that  the  early  Greek  vases  on  which,  besides  swans, 
sphinxes,  and  other  creatures,  figures  of  non-Hellenic  animals, 
such  as  lions  or  tigers  occur,  were  due  to  Asiatic  influence 
brought  to  bear  on  the  Greek  potters  through  the  medium  of 
tlu:  Phoenicians.  Probably  enough  this  was  the  case1.  Yet  it 
is  very  singular  that  the  Phoenicians  should  not  have  reflected 
in  their  own  pottery  this  influence  which  they  are  supposed  to 
have  transmitted.  Nor  can  it  well  be  said  that  we  do  not  as 


POTTP:RY.  407 

yet  know  all  the  stages  of  their  pottery,  seeing  that  we  have 
now  so  vast  a  number  of  vases  obtained  from  cities  in  Cyprus, 
occupied  by  them  for  many  centuries.  I  have  only  seen 
one  vase  from  Cyprus  (it  is  in  the  British  Museum,  and 
was  discovered  by  General  Cesnola)  which  distinctly  belongs 
to  the  so-called  Asiatic  class,  and  it,  in  its  clay,  application  of 
ornament,  shape,  and  entire  aspect,  stands  out  as  a  unique 
thing  among  the  other  vases  from  Cyprus.  So  there  is  no 
resource  but  to  assume  that  it  had  been  casually  imported. 
The  vase  14  is  nearly  of  the  same  class,  and  may  be  admitted 
to  be  an  imitation,  though  there  is  a  provincial  rudeness  about 
it  not  found  on  the  others. 

The  vases  with  lozenges,  chequers,  and  other  rectilinear 
patterns  present,  as  has  been  said,  the  nearest  approach  to 
the  early  geometric  vases  from  Athens  and  other  Greek  sites. 
(See  Conze,  Anfange  der  Griechischen  Kunst,  and  Hirschfeld 
in  the  Annali  d'  Inst.  Arch.  1872,  pi.  k.)  The  Athenian  vases 
are,  however,  frequently  much  more  elaborate,  almost  rivalling 
in  richness  of  pattern  the  great  vase  engraved  pi.  xxix.  which, 
indeed,  seems  to  have  been  an  importation  from  Athens.  They 
abound  also  in  meander  and  spiral  patterns,  both  of  which  arc- 
extremely  rare  in  Cyprus  potter\-,  Where  rows  of  concentric 
circles  arranged  with  mechanical  stiffness  take  the  place  of  the 
rows  of  spirals  drawn  so  gracefully  with  a  free  continuous 
hand.  That  concentric  circles  do  occasionally  occur  along 
with  other  ornaments  on  Athenian  vases  is  not  to  be  denied, 
but  then  it  is  not  as  in  Cyprus,  where  they  were,  so  to  speak, 
the  rage  of  fashion.  That  the  finer  specimens  of  Cyprus  vases 
with  rectilinear  patterns  (as  on  p.  68  and  fig.  15)  belong  to  the 
same  period  as  the  Athenian  rectilinear  vases  may  be  taken  as 
tolerably  certain,  and  it  is  far  from  unlikely  that  it  was 
through  commerce  with  the  Phoenicians  of  Cyprus  that  the 
Athenians  learned  this  system  of  ornament,  and  afterwards 
developed  it,  as  usual  with  them,  to  its  highest  artistic  perfec- 
tion. "When  they  gave  it  up  to  take  to  other  systems,  they 
retained  a  few  elements  of  it,  such  as  the  meander  in  sub- 
ordinate positions,  but  as  a  system  it  was  given  up  by  them 
entirely.  The  Cypriotes,  on  the  other  hand,  seem  to  have- 
retained  it  along  with  their  system  of  concentric  circles  to  the 
end,  and  for  this  reason  it  would  not  be  allowable  to  infer  the 
date  of  their  vases  from  the  presence  of  geometric  ornament 
on  them  alone.  As  regards  the  class  of  vases  with  rectilinear 


4o8 


APPENDIX. 


patterns    and    concentric  circles    incised    on    the    clay    found 
at    Alambra   along  with    bronze  implements  and    rude    terra- 


cotta figures,  they  must  be  considered  to  belong  to  a  period 
when  the  patterns  evolved  from  the  process  of  bronze  working 
were  in  fashion,  but  it  is  not  always  necessary  to  define  this 


POTTERY.  409 

Tarquinii.  It  would  indeed  be  necessary  to  assume  a  very 
early  period  for  such  ornamentation  on  vases,  if  we  could 
point  to  later  and  regular  stages  in  the  art  of  pottery  in 
Cyprus,  but  only  on  that  condition.  No  doubt  the  vases  with 
human  figures  in  an  Egyptian  style,  already  described,  are 
manifestly  later,  but  they  do  not  betray  a  regular  development, 
and  one  cannot  say  at  what  later  time  they  may  have  been 
made.  Similarly,  also,  the  vase  with  chariot  in  the  British 
Museum  is  an  imitation  of  an  Assyrian  design  ;  while  the  two 
vases  with  chariots  engraved,  p.  247  and  p.  268,  resemble  Greek 
vases  of  the  third  stage,  but  they,  too,  are  obviously  isolated 
examples  of  imitation,  and  all  one  can  argue  from  them 
definitely  is,  that  they  must  have  been  made  when  these  designs 
were  respectively  in  fashion  in  Greece  and  Assyria.  For 
Greece,  that  could  scarcely  have  been  later  than  the  sixth 
century  B.C.,  and  perhaps  this  would  also  be  suitable  for 
Assyria,  as  the  latest  possible  -date.  But  then  the  puzzle  is  to 
conceive  what  the  Cypriote  potters,  having  thus  early  shown 
so  much  skill,  went  on  doing  during  the  succeeding  centuries. 
They  may  have  lapsed  back  to  a  mere  system  of  patterns,  and 
on  such  a  hypothesis  one  can  understand  the  wonderful  exact- 
ness with  which  the  ornament  is  executed  on  many  of  the 
vases,  but  especially  on  those  which  have  bands  of  numerous 
concentric  circles  placed  vertically,  or  both  vertically  and 
horizontally,  and  intersecting  each  other  with  remarkable 
precision,  though,  as  already  pointed  out,  such  ornament  is 
destructive  of  the  form  of  the  vase,  and  cannot  be  defended  on 
any  principle  of  decoration  applicable  to  a  globular  surface. 
To  a  vase  of  the  form  of  fig.  17,  vertical  bands  of  circles  are 
appropriate  enough,  but  this  form  of  vase  is  peculiar  to 
Cyprus,  I  believe,  and,  considering  its  awkwardness,  one  would 
think  it  had  been  extended  sidewards  out  of  mere  desire  for 
novelty,  or  to  accommodate  the  favourite  design  of  vertical 
circles. 

Two  vases  in  the  British  Museum  obtained  from  General 
Cesnola  deserve  notice  for  the  advance  which  they  present  in 
the  application  of  geometric  decoration,  the  peculiarity  of  them 
being  a  certain  constructive  effect  as  in  an  architectural  design. 
In  one  place  for  instance  we  have  what  would  be  a.  set  of 
concentric  circles,  cut  in  two  segments  and  separated  by  the 
interposition  of  two  triangles  intersecting  each  other  and  filled 
with  oblique  lines :  the  segment  of  circles  on  the  one  side 


4io 


APPENDIX. 


balances  the  segment  on  the  other  side,  and  so  on  other 
places  of  the  vases  we  have  similar  effects.  The  colours, 
which  are  purple  and  black  on  a  drab  ground,  are  fresh,  and 
altogether  the  impression  left  by  these  vases  is  that  they 
cannot  belong  to  the  period  usually  assigned  to  the  early 
geometric  vases.  This  is  confirmed  by  the  occurrence  on 
them  of  those  crosses  which  Dr.  Schliemann  calls  sitastikas, 
but  which  in  fact  appear  to  be  only  the  simplest  form  or 
element  of  the  meander  pattern.  These  crosses,  along  with 
the  elements  of  other  patterns,  are  much  used  in  the  so-called 
Asiatic  vases  to  fill  up  the  spaces,  and,  as  already  said,  they 
may  be  taken  to  be  reminiscences  of  the  earlier  system  of 
decoration.  But  here  on  the  vases  from  Cyprus,  where  the 


system  of  decoration  is  geometric,  they  cannot  have  any  such 
function,  and  rather  appear  to  owe  their  position  to  ignorance 
of  their  original  use. 

Among  the  vases  which  strike  one  as  specially  late,  is  that 
engraved  p.  98.  representing  a  serpent  eating  a  fruit  from  a 
tree.  Then  again  the  vase  30  cannot  well  be  classed  as  early. 
The  volutes  and  floral  pattern  on  the  body  are  drawn  with  a 
perfectly  free  hand,  while  the  border  of  ornament  round  the 


POTTERY.  411 

shoulder  is  that  which  is  very  familiar  on,  and  may  be  said  to 
be  one  of  the  characteristics  of,  the  Greek  black  figure  vases. 
Clearly  enough  the  application  of  a  large  floral  pattern  to  the 
body  of  the  vase  is  entirely  inconsistent  with  the  practice  of 
Greek  vase  painters,  but  the  pattern  itself  is  quite  Greek. 
Round  the  neck  is  what  at  first  appears  to  be  a  sort  of  net- 
work, but  on  closer  inspection  it  seems  rather  to  represent  a 
broad  plait  or  guilloche,  and  is  thus  appropriately  placed  round 
the  neck  where  the  idea  of  compression  is  required  to  be  con- 
veyed. A  vase  almost  identical  with  this  one  was  found  at 
Camirus  in  Rhodes,  during  the  excavations  of  Salzmann  and 
Biliotti,  and  is  now  in  the  British  Museum.  At  p.  247  is 


engraved  a  one-handled  vase,  with  a  form  of  ornament  round 
the  neck  precisely  the  same  as  that  which  occurs  on  several 
vases  from  lalyssus  in  Rhodes.  These  lalyssus  vases  were 
found  in  a  tomb,  the  contents  of  which  were  undoubtedly  of  an 
early  character,  though  here  again  we  meet  the  same  difficulty 
as  in  Cyprus,  arising  from  the  absence  of  distinctly  later  stages 
of  art  from  which  to  make  a  comparison.  The  greatest 
obstacle  which  I  find  in  accepting  the  lalyssus  antiquities  as 
being  of  a  date  earlier  than  B.C.  600,  is  the  presence  among 
them  of  a  small  seated  figure  in  ivory,  and  a  small  bron/c  goat, 
both  of  which  seem  to  belong  to  a  time  when  Greek  sculpture 
in  the  round  had  fairly  begun  to  be  a  real  art,  and  that  cannot 
well  be  said  to  have  been  the  case  previous  to  the  date  just 
given.  There  is,  too,  a  small  figure  of  a  sphinx  in  relief  on  a 


412  APPENDIX. 

sort  of  vitrified  ware  used  to  make  necklaces  of,  \\hich  on  its 
merits,  if  found  by  itself,  would  probably  be  assigned  to  not 
earlier  than  B.C.  600,  while  one  of  the  gems,  an  intaglio  in 
rock  crystal,  representing  a  sort  of  goat,  would  under  the 
same  circumstances  very  likely  be  similarly  dated.  Of  course, 
a  particular  fashion  of  pottery  may  have  been  retained  in 
constant  use,  and  with  hardly  any  change  for  centuries  in  out- 
lying places,  such  as  lalyssus  or  Cyprus,  far  removed  from  the 
active  centres  of  progressive  art  in  Greece,  where  we  know  of 
no  stagnation,  and  on  that  theory  it  would  be  perfectly  justifi- 
able to  assign  the  lalyssus  pottery  to  a  date  perhaps  even  two 
or  more  centuries  earlier  than  the  several  objects  just  described, 
since  what  is  properly  meant  by  the  date  of  a  class  of  pottery 
is  the  time  at  which  it  came  first  into  use  as  a  distinct  fashion. 
Accordingly,  even  if  the  tomb  at  lalyssus  were  positively 
known  to  have  been  made  not  before  B.C.  Goo,  it  would  yet  be 
allowable  to  assume  for  its  pottery  in  the  main  an  earlier  date 
of  several  hundreds  of  years. 

It  has  been  necessary  to  state  this  theory  here  because  a 
certain  number  of  the  Cyprus  vases  are  included  by  Mr. 
Newton  in  the  argument  by  which  he  determines  the  antiquities 
found  by  Dr.  Schliemann  at  Mycenae  to  be  of  a  date  earlier 
than  B.C.  800.  That  is  to  say,  with  the  shapes  of  vases  and 
special  forms  of  ornament  from  Mycenae,  he  identifies,  in  a 
number  of  cases,  the  shapes  of  vases  and  form  of  ornaments 
from  the  tomb  at  lalyssus,  and  again  identifies  other  vases 
from  this  same  tomb  with  vases  from  Cyprus. 


PLATE     XLIV. 


Fig.  34- 


\ 


Fig.   33  (b). 


DESIGN'S   ON    PAINTKD   VASES. 


PL«TE    XLV. 


DESIGNS   ON    PAINTED   VASKS. 


PLATE     XLVI. 


Fig.  38. 


Fig.  39- 


DKSIGNS   ON    PAIN'TKD   VASKS. 


PLATE     XLVII. 


Fig.  40. 


Fig.   41 


DESIGNS   ON   PAINTED   VASKS. 


GREEK    INSCRIPTIONS. 


i. 

A^POAITH   -  F 
AHMOKPATH2FTOAEMAIOT 
OAPXOrmNKINTPAAHN 
KAIHITNHETNIKH 

THNEATTilNOTTATEPA 
...   HN 


o  apx^os  TMV  KtrwpaScoy 
Kal  '"r]  yvir]  Eiii/tKrj 
TT/V  taurcof  ^uyare'pa 
'Apia-   .    .   77  y 

From  Palaeo-Paphos.  On  a  porpliyry  pedestal,  originally 
belonging  to  a  statue  dedicated  to  Aphrodite  by  Demokrates 
and  his  wife  in  honour  of  their  daughter.  Demokrates  here 
styles  himself  the  chief  (apx°s)  of  the  Cinyradse. 

2. 

A<I>POAITH    OA^I  ..........  E 

OSrrASTKPATOTTO  ........  OTON 

0E]  OT2  ETE  PFET  A2TE  X  X  ITONTAE 
]IMOKP1TONKAAAI2TION 


8(,V?;  YIa.(fn[a  .  .   .    e 
....   os  SracrtKparou  TO   ....   OTGV 
6e  ovs  Ei/epye'ra?  T^\VI.TMV  rae 
KaAAtcrrtoi) 


414  APPENDIX. 

From  Palseo-Paphos.  On  a  porphyry  pedestal,  originally 
belonging  to  a  statue  of  Aphrodite.  In  an  inscription  from 
Paphos  (Corp.  Ins.  Gr.  No.  2620)  mention  is  made  of  the 
TtyviTai  Trepi  Aioi-vcrov  KCU  Oeovs  Euepye'ras,  and  such  was  probably 
their  title  in  this  inscription  also. 


OIIAONI 
MEAAN0UM 


TnEPTOTTIOT 
KATArPA4>OT 
ETXIIN 

MeAar0i,'a>  Kardypac/ios  v-tp  TOV  vlov 


From  Palseo-  Paphos.     On  a  small  pedestal  of  red  porphyry 
having  the  sockets  by  which  a  statuette  had  been  attached. 


4- 

API2TAFOPA2 
2122ANAPON 
TONEATTOTTION 
OriAONIMEAAN0Ii2 
ETXIIN 

'Aptcrrayopas  2co(raj.'8poy  TOV  eavrov 
vlov  o-dovi 


From  Palseo-Paphos.     On  a  small  column  of  white  marble 
on  which  had  been  a  statuette. 


5- 

(a) 

!22  K:\inorror.MAN 

ILMOi:  APETII^XAI'IX 


GREEK    INSCRIPTIONS.  415 


APXETIMHNAnEAAEOT20TrATEPA 
TAITAIAIASAMIONKAIONHSIAOS 


Ovyarepa. 
Ta  Trauka  2a/u,toz;  Kal  '  Qv  770-1X0?. 


From  Palseo-Paphos.     On   a  pedestal  of  blue   granite,   in 
scribed  on  two  sides.     Length  2  ft.  10  in.,  ht.  8  in. 


6. 

TONMANTIAPXONKAFI  •  NAAEI 
POAITH2KAIAIO2IIOAIEOE  .   .   H  .  .   2  <f>IAA 


Toy 

'A</>]po<kY?7s  Kat  Ato?  rioAteos 


From  Palseo-Paphos.     Built  into  wall  of  church. 


KAPllIONATONEATT  .   .  HATEPA 
HPOAOTOSKAPniilXnTOAE^T 
KAIOITnATTI2NTETAr.MENOI 
KATATHNNH20XAPXITEKTOI 


KapTTLOva  rov  eaurwy  Trare' 
'Hpo'ooros,  Kap~tcor, 
Kcu  ot  v~'  avT&v 
Kara  TTJV  vijaov  a 


NXPON02HXI   .  .  .  TON  .  E2A  .  OTAPONEAAA2EKAE1ZEN 
[IATPIiM*A  .   .  AMn  .   .   AAAAMA22AFOPA 

NEAO2rPOrONOIAONOMA2TOIAn    .    .  2 

EKFONO2  ATPEIAANEAAAAOS  AFEMEXllX 


416  APPENDIX. 


vos  ^VL  [K'a]  ro/v  P]e  °"[o$wrar]oy  "EAAas 
7rarpw/x  </>a  [  ......  ]  /a  7r[ai]Sa  8dp.cur<r'  dyopd 

|  Tlarpts  ffjiol  Te'Jreftos  -npoyovoi  b'  ovoy.acrTOL  a~'  avrijy 
'Arpet8a^"EAAa8os  aye/ao' 


From  Palseo-Paphos.    On  a  pedestal  of  blue  granite  inscribed 
on  two  sides. 


NIK  AN  A 

pocrriEP 

TOTTIOT 
TIMAFOPA 

v~fp  TOV  vlov  Tt//ayo'pa 

From  Neo-Paphos.    Roughly  cut  on  the  breast  of  a  statuette 
in  calcareous  stone. 

9- 

AP21NOHI    <MAAAEA*ftI    NAIAAI 
API^TOKAHS    APTSTOKEOT2 

AAEHANAPET2 

'Apcnvoy  ^/.Aa8e'A(/)w  NatdSt* 


From  Cythrea.  Apparently  from  the  base  of  a  statue  dedi- 
cated to  Arsinoe,  the  daughter  of  Ptolenry  Lagus,  b\-  Aristokles, 
son  of  Aristokles,  a  native  of  Alexandria,  unless  this  Aristokles 
can  be  the  name  of  the  sculptor.  The  form  and  disposition  of 
the  letters  are  in  the  best  style  of  the  Macedonian  period. 

10. 

(  )ATM  1  1  1  A  A  ATI  I  NC-)TFATE  PA 
APTEMi^TIl^KAETK  .  . 


KAINATAPXOTKAIAPXIE  ..... 


GREEK    INSCRIPTIONS.  417 

/Z;  dvyarepa 


r/y 

(f)L\U>V,    TOV   (TTpa   T 

KCU  vavdp-^ov  Kai  ap)(ie'[petos 
6vya.Tpos' 


From  Cythrea.  On  a  pedestal  of  blue  granite.  The 
Seleukos  here  mentioned  as  general,  admiral,  and  high  priest, 
is  probably  the  Seleucus,  son  of  Bithys,  who  was  commander 
in  Cyprus  in  the  time  of  Ptolemy  III.  Euergetes,  and  in  whose 
honour  an  inscription  by  the  town  of  Curium  will  be  found  in 
Engel  (i.  p.  nS),  and  in  the  Corpus  Inscript.  Grsec.  No.  2629. 
The  present  inscription  is  a  dedication  by  a  town,  the  name  of 
which  is  lost,  in  honour  of  Olympias,  a  daughter  of  Arterno. 


IT. 
OT2INTOAA2 


ANIEP12SANTHNTII0K12IOSTK 
AITHNANIEPI2MEM1XTH2TOTEN 
MOKPATOT2TOTKAIMENE2TPA 
XAPIOrTOTEcMIBAPXOrAPrrPIO 


O   .   .   .   UTOIXTOY2EP 

OVCTLV  TO  \aa 


TTJ  6«2>  oir  re 

(Cat   TWV   (mepa>p.era>f   Tl/y    TOV   fl> 

~\u.OKpaTOV$  TOV  /cat  Mez'eirrpa  .   .   . 
Jroptof  TOV  a/j?j/5ap)(ou  apyvpi.o[v  ayaXp-a  '? 
ei]cr^/-ai  rf;  (ley  Oor^pia  ec//  wt'  e   ,   .    . 
Jo-tot  KcuVapos  Ee/3acrroi)  KOI  .   .    . 

KJouotWoD  ^ep   .   .    . 

From  Cythrea.     On  a  fragment  of  blue  granite  found  in  the 
enclosure!  of  a  temple. 


41  8  APPENDIX. 

12. 

AnOAAnNIAAK€ITHIAPICCTOYC 
MANPTIAXOCYHEPKAEONOC 
TOVYIOY 
ANE0EKENENTYXHI 

'A-TTo'AAoort  AaKfCrrj  "  ApLn-crrovs 


TOV  VLOV 


From  Pyla.  On  a  block  of  limestone.  The  title  mantiarchos 
(line  2}  occurs  in  \\*addington,  No.  2795,  but  \vritten  Mavri- 
dpxii*  according  to  Ceccaldi  (Rev.  Arch.  1874),  who  publishes 
this  inscription. 


13- 

AEONTIOI 
ERAPXIKO 


(c)     *YXAPOYC 

a.        AfOVTLOl 

b. 


From  Salarnis.  On  a  pedestal  of  white  marble,  now  in  the 
Louvre.  M.  Ceccaldi  (Rev.  Arch.  1.^74)  thinks  that  the  name 
Psycharous  (c}  is  that  of  the  dedicator  of  the  statue,  \vhicli 
had  probably  stood  on  this  base.  Hirschfeld.  Tituli  Sta- 
tuariorum,  &c..  p.  202. 


GREEK    INSCRIPTIONS.  419 


KO00T2 
ETIOT 
2AAAMINIA 
XAIPE 


KoOovs  Ei>tot> 
From  Salamis.     On  a  marble  slab  found  in  a  tomb. 


TIBEPmiKAl2APISEBA2Tm0Ei2I0EOT2EBA2TOTTmi 

ATTOKPATOPIAPXIEPEIMEriSTmAHMAPXIKHSEEOrSIAC 

TOAAEniAETKIOTAEAlOTNA2ONO2AN0TnATOTKAIMAPK 

or 

ETPEIATOTAOTnEPKOTnPE2BETTOTKAirAIOT*AABIOT4>H 

AOTTAMIOT 

AAPA2T02AAPA2TOT*IAOKAI2APOENrENIKO2IEPETSTOT 
ENTIirTMNA2I12IKATE2KETA2MENOTTnOAYTOYEKTOTIA 

IOT 
TIBEPIOTKAI2AP022EBA2TOTNAOYKAIArAAMATO20ci)IAO 

HATPI2 
KAinANAPETOSKAIAIiPEANKAIAT0AIPET02rTMNA2IAPX 

O2KAI 
TOArAAMAIAIOT2ANAAIiMA2INTaiATOY0E12IE(I>HBAPXOT 

NTOS 
AIONT2IOTTOTAIONT2IOTTOTKAIAnOAAOAOTOT*IAOKAI 

SAPO2 
AAPA2TO2AAPASTOT4>IAOKAI2APKA0IEPf22EN2YNKA0IE 

POTNTO^ 
KAITOYTIOTATTOTAAPA2TOT$IAOKAI2APO2TOTKATAYTO 

TAI2PEAN 

KAIAT0AIPETUTrTMXAiIAPXOTTi)XnAIAi2NTIlirEXESII2 
TTBEPIOT 

LIs 

AnoroxiKor      KL 


420  APPENDIX. 


Ti/3epi'cp  Kcu'crapi  2 

AtiTo/cparopt  'Apxtepet  Meyitmo  bijfjLap^LK^  f£ovaias 

TO  AA  e/rt  Aeu/aou  AeAi'ou  Xuaoz'os  az.'<9i;7rd-oi>  KCU 

'ErpeiSiou  (?)  Aourre'pKOV  7rpe<T/3tvrou  KCU  Fcuou  <I>Aa/3iW  <l>7?Aou  TO//IOU 

"ASpacrro?  'ASpdorot  c/uAoKat'crap  6  eryertKos1  lepet/s  T^U 

er  7co  yr/jt/'acrio)  KarefTKeyacr/xej'oi;  IITTO  avrou  e/c  roC  tOtou 

Tiflepiov  Kaicrapos  2e/3aoroi!  j-aou  Kat  ayaA/^aro?  6  0tAo'-arpts 

Kai  Trarupero?  KOI  Scope'ay  KCU  av^atperos  yr/xracrmp^os  /cat 

TO  ayaAp.a  i8iois  avaXw^acnv  rco  awrw  $ew'  JE0 

Aiovixriou  roS  AtoiTrrtou  roC  Kat  'A~oAAo8o'roi; 

'ASpaoros  'AbpaaTOV  0tAoKat(rap  Ka^te'paxrei'  crv 

KCLI  TOV  vlov  avTov  'AbpdaTov  (ptAoKatVapos  roO  Kat  avrov 

Kat  avOaiptTov  yv\j.vaai.ap\ov  T£>V  TTULOMV  rrj 

Ti/Septou 

LIs 

or          KL 


From  Lapethus.  On  a  pedestal  found  in  the  ruins  of 
Lapethus.  and  now  in  the  courtyard  of  a  Greek  convent  called 
Acheropiti.  The  date  of  the  inscription  is  A.D.  29,  in  the 
sixteenth  year  of  the  tribunicia  potestas  of  Tiberius,  when 
Lucius  Aelius  Xaso  was  pro-consul  of  Cyprus. 

16. 

EnEIAHNOTMHNIOSNOTMHXIOT 
ETEPrETHSOXTHSnOAEilSAIETEAEIAE 
THNnA2AXEniMEAEIAXnOIOTMEXO2TOYTE 


EAOHEXnPAEIAHM12ITaiAPXIEPEIKAITOI2IEPET2I 

TOTnO2EIAI2XO^TOTA(?)APXAKIOTAOTXAI 

XOTMIiXIllIKAIErrOXOI2iiXAX0TIi2I\ 

ATEAEIAXTIiXrEP12XEI2TOXAnAXTAXPOXO 

TYXHITHIAFA0HI 


roi'  FlocretOwz'os  ror  '  apraKiov  bovrai 

Xoi'p./j2'(.'oj  KCU  eyyoi'ots  cor  «r  (U'cumr 
dreAetai-  -cor  yeptar  ay  nu1  aT7«z'ra  \purov 

7i'x?/  rf/ 


GREEK    INSCRIPTIONS.  421 

From  Larnaca  of  Lapethus.  On  a  stone  found  in  a  circular 
ruin.  On  a  projection  of  the  stone  is  inscribed  NOTMHNIO2 
NOTMHNIOT.  The  name  Noumenios  occurs  in  a  bilingual 
inscription  in  Greek  and  Phoenician  from  Athens,  while  the 
name  of  the  high  priest  here  mentioned,  Praxidemos,  also 
occurs  in  a  similar  bilingual  found  previously  at  Larnaca  of 
Lapethus,  and  published  by  Gesenius  and  De  Vogue\  This 
inscription  is  a  degree  conferring  on  Noumenios  and  his 
descendants  for  all  time  exemption  from  handing  over  to  the 
priests  those  parts  of  animals  (ye'pa)  sacrificed  which  other 
persons  were  obliged  to  hand  over  (Hermann,  Griech.  Anti- 
quitaten,  ii.  35,  n).  The  decree  is  passed  by  the  chief  priest 
and  the  priests,  and  this  honour  is  paid  to  Noumenios  because 
of  his  being  a  benefactor  of  the  city,  and  because  of  his  having 
made  the  whole  arrangements  both  of  the  chief  priest  and  the 
priests  by  word  and  deed.  The  title  here  given  to  Poseidon  is 
not  positively  illegible  as  regards  the  first  letter,  which  seems 
to  be  A.  In  that  case  the  epithet  Larnakios  would  not  only  be 
new  but  wyould  be  extremely  curious,  since  it  may  have  a  local 
signification,  and  since  the  name  of  Larnaca  is  assumed  to  be 
modern. 


AHMHTP!  OAAHNI 

TIMOAI2POC 


18. 

APIMOKIA 
TIMOAHPC 


19. 

TIMOAHPOZAEK 
APIMOKIAABI- 
EHPIATOI 


APPENDIX. 


Nos.  17  —  ig  are  from  Golgoi,  and  are  incised  on  limestone; 
the  two  first  on  blocks,  and  the  third  on  a  pedestal,  on  which 
there  are  also  some  Cypriote  characters.  No.  17  is  a  dedication 
to  Demeter  and  Apollo.  Nos,  18,  ig  arc  dedications  to 
Drimokia,  perhaps  a  local  name  of  some  goddess.  For  No.  ig 
see  Appendix  and  pi.  i  in  Mr.  Isaac  H.  Hall's  paper  on  "  The 
Cypriote  inscriptions  of  the  Di  Cesnola  Collection  "  in  the 
Journal  of  the  American  Oriental  Society,  x.  1875. 


(r)  ONTOENAOZO 


Ets  ©eo'y, 

ro  //eyi'ora- 
(r)oy  ro  s 
(TO)TOV  w 

Tram  5eo- 


From  Gol^oi.  On  fragment  of  limestone  column.  Below 
the  inscription  are  two  wreaths,  within  one  of  which  is  in- 
scribed HAIO2,  The  letters  are  very  late,  and  i  is  used  for 
et.  M.  Ceccaldi  (Rev.  Arch.  1874)  thinks  this  inscription  may 
be  Christian. 


2,1. 


ZUKPATOY 
ITEYZ 

Irrom   Gol<^oi.     On  fragment  of  a  marble  stele.     Ceccaldi, 
Rev.  Arch.  1874. 


GREEK    INSCRIPTIONS.  423 

22. 
MHAOTXEATilN  .........  ©HKENArA0HlTTXHI  . 

M?7Aoi>xearoH>(?7  Tro'Ai?,  ai^)6riK€i>,  aya.6?]  ™'x?/. 

From  Melusha.  Broken  in  the  middle.  The  name  of  the 
town  may  have  been  MryAou^o?,  or  MrjXov^ta  ;  the  modern  name 
is  Melusha  ;  and  the  Cypriotes  ot  the  present  day  pronounce; 
the  x  like  sh  before  the  vowels  e,??,  i,v,  and  before  the  diphthongs. 

23- 

ONHSArOPASrnEPTII2rrNAIKO2NlKlOr 
KAITH20rrATPO2  ....  TA^POATT-HIMT 
KIIPOA! 


v~ep  TI)S  yvvaiKos  Ni/ct'ov 
K.OL  TIJS  Ovyarpos  .  .  .  .  v  '  A.(j)po§mi  AIi> 


From   Melusha.     The  epithet    here    applied    to   Aphrodite, 
,  means  a  walnut  or  almond  tree. 

24. 
EYXHANEMIAZAPOAAuJ  Nl 

From  Leucolla.     Graffito  on  calcareous  stone.      Ceccaldi, 
Rev.  Arch.  1874. 

25- 
XA 

PITtO 
NOC 

From   Magrastica.     On  the  foot  ot   a   circular  terra-cotta 
vase.     Ceccaldi,  Rev.  Arch.  1874. 

26. 

ENNI  MX  1  10 

iiNEII  IIOAHJ 

O          E  PA^ii 

N 


f7Tot?7rre.  i'j/crr/o  a 


424 


APPENDIX. 


On  a  glass  cup,  the  letters  in  relief.  A  similar  warning 
(Mr?/cr$)7  6  ayopacrutv)  occurs  on  a  glass  vase  in  the  Museum  of 
Modena,  described  by  Cavedoni  (Annali  dell'  Inst.  Arch.  xvi. 
p.  163).  The  name  of  the  maker,  Ennion,  is  found  on  a  vase 
formerly  belonging  to  M.  Soph.  Xicolaides,  of  Larnaca,  and 
on  a  very  beautiful  glass  amphora  from  Kertsch,  engraved 
Antiquites  du  Bosphore  Cimmerien,  pi.  78.  Ceccaldi,  Rev. 
Arch.  1875.  Now  in  the  British  Museum. 


27. 

a.  o. 

ETTEN  MEAAN0ETTYXI 

From   Idalium.     On   a  glass  aryballos,  the  letters  in  relief. 
Ceccaldi,  Rev.  Arch.  1875.     Now  in  the  British  Museum. 

28. 

a.  b. 

MEFHC  MXHC0H 

EIIOHCEN  OAFOPACAC 

6  ayopdcras 

From    Marium.       On    a    glass    cup,    the    letters    in    relief. 
Compare  No.  26,  where  we  read  ayopdcrav  instead  of  a 
Ceccaldi,  Rev.  Arch.  1875. 


29. 

APOAAWNIOC   TCO    TAT 
KAITHMHTPIAPf 
TONPEPIBOAONKAIT 
YMtxJNAYTCONENTOAACEAY 
EAYTOYTHCCOAIWNrOAEU) 
EYAPXHCACPANMATE   AZAEAPIU) 
BIBAIO4>YAAKIOYrENOMENOZ    UF| 
-OYTIOY    KF     '     MHTEYCACTHNBOYAH 

AHZACTWNEPIPAYAOY 
VPATOY 


GREEK    INSCRIPTIONS. 


425 


?  TW  Trarp    . 

KCU  TJJ  [J.r]Tpl   'Ap    ......... 

rov  77epi/3oAoi>  Kal  ........ 

avTtoi>  e^roAa?  ea  ..... 
rijs  2oAuov  TroAecos  .  .  . 


yero/aeros 
KL 


From  Soli.  On  a  pedestal  of  white  marble,  found  in  a 
circular  edifice  near  the  small  factory  of  Karavostasi.  The 
above  reading  and  the  following  notes  are  by  M.  Pierides. 

YIap.p.aT€ipa  is  a  surname  of  Gaea.  [eTriorar^s  ?]  /3y/3Ato0i)Aa- 
uou  —  Custodian  of  the  Public  Records.  TL^I-JT^VM  —  is,  to  be  a 
Censor  (rtpjrrjs)  ;  but  what  office  a  Censor  "to  the  Senate" 
was  does  not  appear.  A^/xapx]  e^ovo-ios  :  one  of  the  months  of 
the  Cyprian  Calendar,  corresponding  to  April  23  —  May  23. 

The  Proconsul  Paulus  may  be  the  Sergius  Paulus  of  the 
Acts  of  the  Apostles  (cap.  xiii.),  as  instances  of  the  suppression 
of  one  of  two  names  are  not  rare. 

30- 

AHMOXAPHZ 

nEPSEYTHI 

EYXHN 

From  Curium.  On  a  pedestal  of  calcareous  stone,  to  which 
is  still  attached  the  lower  part  of  a  statue.  What  deity  may 
be  meant  under  the  title  of  Perseute,  which  occurs  in  this  and 
the  following  inscription  cannot  at  present  be  made  out. 


AHMO  TO 

PATIZ  AX 

nEPZEYTHIEYXHN 

From  Curium.     On  a  pedestal  of  calcareous  stone, 

H  H 


426  APPENDIX. 

32- 


AIAPSAXTUXOIEPETS 

-  KAIArOPAXOMO2KAI 

-  ITOI2AAAOJ2    0EOI2 

-  UAIXOr2A2()T2lA2Eni 

-  A  I  A<l>YA  A22  Q  X  KAITI  I  X 

ETKXTMEX02    TH2AE 

-  EXIINEKTAM>P0XTIAA 

-  EXAOSOT2AXAPA2KAI 

-  TII2E2TIA2METOXOT2 

T[I2nOAEfi2EOPTAI2 

-   HMonAPE2XHTAIAT2ITE 

-NAXASTPAcpEISKAITOX 

Eni2KETA2A2TOXTEnP() 

O2KAIKATATOTTOAOHII2 

OMEXOI2TA2ATTA2APXA2 

—  nPEnOT2AX    TOI22TEM 

OXTfl2TTXEIXATTOXKAl 

-  XAP12TIA2 

2EHAIXE2AITETON 
-XPT2iiISTE*AXIiI 

-  OTXEXT12IEni2HMO 

-  ATTOTOMOfll^EX 
XArPAnTIIXEXA2IIIA 

-  AXArPA*AIEI22TI-IAIIX 

—  E2EIAI22IXTHXTE 

OTOT2KAA02KAIEM 

--    OTTA2KATAEIA2 


--  KCU  a 

—  Kala  yofjai'ofji.o$  KOL 

—  KCI  ).  ro  is'  aAAots 
1  ovcras 

/cat 


(1'in'fKTOLl   typOl'Tia 

Ka6 


roi> 


GREEK    INSCRIPTIONS.  427 


-  fTTt(TKtv(TaS  TOV  TC 

-  os  /col  Kara  TOVTO 

ras  atiras 
rols  ore/x 

Ol'TWS  TV)(€lV  O.VTOV  K.O.I 


ESofe  TOO  8?7juw  Kal  rots  crui>e6/aoc]  s  f-aiverrai  re  roy 
/cat  orec/jarcoaat  ]  XPU(T<? 

ar/rou  ayaA/xa  Xa^Kl  °^i;  ^'  T( 

rdr(t)  T?/?  TToAecus  TOTTW  Kai,  ere/ooi;]   a^roC  o^ouwv  e 

..........  ai'a^eu'at  8e  etico]  ra  yparrr?/^  eV  ar 

—  TO  8e  \ln]<pi<riJ.a  ]  dy 

\iOu'7]v  KUI  (Tirjoai  lv  ......  OTTCU?  aj'  Trdrr]  es  €iSwo-ti>  r?;^  re 

—  •    —    —    —    —    —    —    ote  KaAcos  Kaj  er 

o  uras  Kar'  a£iai>. 

From  Curium.  In  the  church  of  Agliios  Ermojeni.  M. 
Pieridcs,  to  whom  I  owe  the  above  reading  of  the  inscrip- 
tion, adds  the  following  remarks  about  it.  It  is  a  decree 
conferring  civic  honours  ;  the  letters  are  of  the  second  cen- 
tury, B.C.  The  inscription  is  in  two  parts,  with  a  space 
between  them;  the  first,  or  introductory  part  (-n-po/Jo'yAevjua)  , 
enumerates  the  public  offices  held  by  the  recipient,  and  the 
services  rendered  by  him  to  the  town,  setting  forth  his  piety 
and  liberality  during  public  festivals,  the  restorations  under- 
taken at  his  expense,  &c.  ;  then  comes  the  decree  proper, 
declaring  him  worthy  of  public  praise,  and  awarding  him  a 
gold  crown,  apparently  two  statues,  a  shield  or  plate  of  metal 
with  his  portrait,  and  a  decretal  stele,  in  order  that  "  people 
may  know  how  virtuous  citizens  are  rewarded,"  &c.  ap£avT(av 
refers  to  the  offering  of  first  fruits,  from  which  it  would  appear 
that  in  this  case  the  Senate  of  Kurion,  before  proceeding  to 
business,  had  performed  a  religious  ceremony. 

33- 
KOINTONKATAIONONIIpATONEnAPXON 


nOXTOTK  A  I  BEI0TXI  AS  AN0TI1  AT(  )N 

KTOPOTAI  AH  PONOHTOT  AIOXT^  tOT 
<I)nxo  vTQTK  PAT  [  1TO  v 

APXOXT02 


428  APPENDIX. 

(Kovpitwv  ?;  /SouA?/  Kal  6 
KaiAtoy  'Qvutparov 


OoWou  KCU 

HvTrpov  :   bla  Trpozw/roO 

roiS  TvMVos  :  TOV 


From  Curium.  The  reading  is  by  M.  Pierides.  In  the 
first  line  only  the  lower  parts  of  some  of  the  letters  are  pre- 
served. "Eirap^ov  CTLTOV  boa-eas  is  the  Greek  translation  of  Prae- 
fectus  frumenta  dando.  ripoj'oijr?/?,  the  same  as  ~E-LiJ.f\riTi]s  = 
Curator  or  Superintendent  of  Public  Edifices.  The  inscrip- 
tion is  a  dedication  by  the  Senate  and  People  of  Kurion  in 
honour  of  Quintus  Caelius  Honoratus,  Proconsul  of  Cyprus, 
in  the  Archonship  of  Crates,  the  honorary  statue  having 
been  erected  under  the  care  of  Dionysios,  son  of  Tryphon. 
This  inscription  adds  one  to  the  short  list  of  Proconsuls  of 
Cyprus. 

34- 

STOPFHIAAOAAM 

KAiniNTTHNOP 

HPmAOTSTNO 

KEINADAPAIZ 

APKEIMOinOS 

2TXZ-QRA 

XAIPEKAIEI 


Kai  et^s  'A'forjv  ?  .  .  . 


From  Curium.     The  reading  is  bv  M.  Pierides.     Fragment 


GREEK    INSCRIPTIONS.  429 

of  a  metrical  epitaph  in  honour  of  Laodameia  by  her  husband 
Heroi'des  ;  the  letters  are  of  the  Augustan  age. 


35 

Atotkopoy 

Toy  (sic)  yfVOfjLfvov  tepea 

roi;  'ATToAAcoz/'os1,  ot  viol 


KCU       epevs 
'A/HcrroreAr;?,  KCH  ' 

This  and  the  following  inscription  are  from  the  ruins  of  the 
Temple  of  Apollo  Hylates  (Hyle,  near  Kurion).  The  reading 
is  by  M.  Pierides,  who  had  the  assistance  of  a  transcript  made 
from  the  stone  some  years  ago  when  it  was  in  better  pre- 
servation. The  date  of  the  inscription  is  about  the  beginning 
of  the  first  century,  B.C.  ;  it  is  a  dedication  in  honour  of 
Diodorus,  son  of  Glaukos,  priest  of  Apollo,  by  his  sons 
Glaukos,  Aristoteles,  and  Jason. 

36. 

cNAON  .A  .... 
<MAirTEPANTHN<MAIFFOr 
THNEATTOrrTNAIK 

4>t  .  cor  .  a  -       ------  ^~ 

^tAcorepay  TTJV  ^iAtTTTTOU 
rr]v  eauroO  ywaua, 

From  ruins  of  Temple  of  Apollo  Hylates.  Published  by 
Sakellarios. 

37- 

APTEMIAIPA  •  AAIA  •  OAYMRIA 
NOCEYAAIMtONYREPeYrATPIAHC 

BEPIANHC 


ITapaAi'a  ' 
vbs  Ev8aifx.coz>  v-ep 


430  APPENDIX 

From  Larnaca.  M.  Pierides  has  been  enabled  to  make  out 
the  reading  ITapaAta  in  the  first  line  from  the  Following  inscrip- 
tion in  his  possession,  and  found  in  the  same  locality,  viz.  the 
"Salines:"  'ApreVtot  YlapaXia  eufci/.ieroj  A{>p?/Aios  'Aptorcoy  tarpos 
apfas  virep  Ovyarpos  Avp'  'Or^cn./.uaz-'j/s  rfjs  xal  'QXvfJi-iavTJs.  He 
states  that  on  the  same  spot  was  also  found  a  copper  vessel 
containing  from  twelve  to  fourteen  hundred  gold  staters  of 
Philip  and  Alexander.  There  may  have  stood  there  a  temple 
to  Artemis  as  goddess  of  the  coast  (irapaXia),  On  a  small 
pedestal  of  red  and  white  breccia.  Ceccaldi,  Rev.  Archeo- 
logique,  1874. 

38. 

rOZEIAHNIOS 
HAIOAflPOY 


From  Larnaca.     On  a  stele  of  white  marble,  with  top  in 
form  of  a  pediment.     Ceccaldi,  Rev.  Arch.  1875* 

39- 
C€MNONA€IZHCACBIOTON 

MAKAPAPT6MIALOPE 
CW<t>POCYNHNAIACHN 
XAIP€KAI€N<J>0IM€NOIC 


(rai(f)poo~vvr]V  Ota  crijv, 
Kai  tv 


From  Larnaca.     On  a  round  cippus  ;  distich  in  hexameter 
and  pentameter.     Ceccaldi,  Rev.  Arch.  1875. 

40. 
6IKAIMOIPIAIONTEAOC 

HrecemcYnoKOAnoYC 

CCOnATPEC€MN€eANtUN 
XAIP€KAI€N4>eiM€NOIC 


GREEK    INSCRIPTIONS.  43! 


Et  Kal  noLpibiov  reAo? 
7/ye  (re  y?/s  VTTO  KO'ATTOUS, 
SojTrarpe  tre^fe  Qavliv, 
Kai 


From  Larnaca.     On    a   slab   of  white   marble  ;    distich  m 
hexameter  and  pentameter,     Ceccaldi,  Rev.  Arch.  1875. 

41. 

IVIIA  •  OIVM 

PI   •   I  •   DONATA 

H  •  S  •   EST  • 

lOYAIAOAYMnOYAFlE 

AEY0EPAACONATA 

XPKTHXAIPE 

'lov\t.a   O\v^ov  a~e 
dpa  Acomra, 


From  Larnaca.  On  a  square  stone  ;  bilingual  inscription 
of  Julia  Donata,  a  freed  female  slave  of  Olympus.  In  the 
Latin  part  of  the  inscription  L  is  written  I,  as  given  by  Cec- 
caldi, Rev.  Arch.  1875. 

42.  43. 

KITIAC  EPf2C 


From  Larnaca.    On  two  terra-cotta  bottles;  the  inscription 
red.     Ceccaldi,  Rev.  Arch.  1875. 


44- 


ITA0AOXiriAAAC 
NOnAEITIIXAPMAnoJAIKONKAl 
TPIKOrCArujNACraNTAQAOr- 
©All  C I N  ATT( )  Y<I>  I AOIION I  AC 

ATTOJTEKA1TIIIIATPIAI 

INOTIITOC    XAPIN. 


432  APPENDIX. 


upfj.a  TI;U>\LKOV  KOI 
ay&vas  TTevrd6kov 
a\d\ri(riv  avrov 
'  re  nai  rfj 


From  Larnaca.  On  a  slab  of  white  marble  ;  the  letters 
are  of  a  very  late  period.  The  inscription  is  in  honour  of  an 
athlete  who  had  been  victorious  in  certain  public  Barnes,  and 
had  brought  credit  to  himself  and  to  his  native  place. 


45- 


Nil <MAON 

TOXEXTEXNAI2 
MAPEIPIKAI2AEI 
4>AXEXTAXPH2TOI 
TOX2EMXOXAX 
.  .  .  ABAKXIXHAE 
.  AXOXTATH 


Nil  .  .  .     <f>C\cv 

TOV  fV  T£)(2'atS 

{jLayeipiKcus  ael 
(f>av€i>ra  \ 

TOV  aefj.i'01'  av 
bpa  Ba.K)(ii',  ?)'§ 


Pram  Larnaca.  In  very  small  letters  of  a  late  period,  with 
occasional  ligatures.  The  reading  here  given  is  by  M.  Pierides, 
who  is  reminded  by  the  fact  of  the  inscription  being  in  honour 
of  a  cook  that  Cyprus  has  always  been  famous  for  persons  of 
culinary  skill  ;  down  to  recent  times  Cypriote  cooks  were  in 
request  at  the  embassies  and  consulates  of  the  Levant, 


GREEK    INSCRIPTIONS. 


433 


46. 

AA<f>POAHIIOY 

ANTOC 
NAAZKAAY 


47- 

KYPIA6 
XPHCT6 


48. 

TIMWN 

XPHCTE 

XAIPE 


APIN 


49- 

APTI 

NIA 
X€P€ 


50. 

KAAAAIWN 

€Y*YXIOYAIC 

A0ANATOC 


MAPKAINA 
XPHCTHX€P€ 


52. 

KPATHAXPHC 
THXAIP6 


53- 

NACIA 

HCTH 

€P€ 


54- 

Ano 

€HOICENEYE 


55- 

<I>IAOKV 
XPHC 
XAIP€ 


56.  57- 

AHMHTPIA      nACIKINHXPHCT€ 
XPHCTHX€P€  XAIP6 


58. 

A0HN€AP 

XI€P€OY 

XPHCT6 

XAIP6 


59- 

ANTI 

HATP6 

XPHCT€ 

XAIP6 


60. 

€HA<|)PO 
A€IT€ 

XPHCT6 
XAIP6 


61. 

ZOIA    IHXPH 

CTHXEPE 

OYAEICA0A 

NATOC 


62. 

AY3  HTE 
XPhCTEXAIPE 


A0ANATOC 


63- 

AHOAAU) 

NIAAHMH 

IT    IOYXPHC 

THXAIPE 


434 


APPENDIX. 


64. 

65- 

66. 

A<t>POAICI 

<!>IAOKYnPE 

APTEMEIAWPE 

XPHCTE 

XPHCTE 

XP€CT€ 

XAIPE 

XAIPE 

X€P€ 

67. 

68. 

69. 

TYXIKh 

XPYCOfONH 

ZDIAA 

XPhCTh 

ClO<t>PCON 

XPHCTH 

XAIPE 

XAIP6 

XAIPE 

70. 

ANAPONIK€ 

XPHCT6 

X€P€ 

7i- 

72. 

73- 

ARoAONIAH 

pnreiNA 

AHMHTPIANH 

XPHCTE 

XP€Ch 

XPHCTH 

XAIPE 

X€P€ 

X€P€ 

74- 

75- 

76. 

nozEwz 

EYOAIA 

NIKOnOAl 

XPHCTE 

XPHOTH 

XPHCTE 

XEPE 

XAIP6 

XEPE 

77- 

AHMHTPIANH 
XPHCTHXAIPE 

80. 

APT€MlAWP€ 
XPHCT6XAIP6 

83- 

TEIMION 

XPHCTE 

XEPE 


78. 

€YHPAriAXPH 
CTHXAIP6 

81. 

0IPMEXPHZTE 
XAIPE 

84. 

MAPK€AA€ 

XPHCT6 

XAIP€ 


79- 

AHDAACONA 
XPHCT€X€P€ 

82. 

EHhKThTE 
XPhCTE 

85- 

EUKICUP 
€A+P€ 


GREEK    INSCRIPTIONS. 


435 


86. 

EHA0POAEITE 

XPHCTE 

XAIPE 

89. 

<!>AWP€ 

XPHCT€ 

XAIP€ 


87. 

AHMHTPIWN 

XPHCT6 

X€PAI 

90. 

DNHCIME 

XPHCTE 

XEPE 


POAWN 

XPhCTAI 

XAIP€ 

91. 

APTEMIAW 

P€XPHCT€ 

XAIP6 


MAPK€A€ 

XPHCT6 

XAIP6 

95- 

EyTYXIA   KAI 

GAPZAAEE 

XEPETE 


93 

KAPH€ 

XPHCT6 

XAIP6 

96. 

OAVMHIANC 
XPHCT6XEP6 


98. 
AHOAU) 


94- 

AAIHE 

XPHCTE 

XAIPE 

97. 

nepireiviiA 

XPHCTH 
XAIP€ 


XHCTE 
XAIPE 

Nos.  46-98  arc  engraved  on  cippi,  from  Larnaca. 


99. 

PHIC 
HPHACG,! 

MHAENAHATPIA 

rALOCCHHIKPO 

KEIMAIYHOXOONIO 


KWKYWrONEtONI     P 

COIXAPICEYE[a/^i? 

EYNACONHAH     YNO 
APKETATE 


436  APPENDIX. 


IOO. 


APT€N:IA(OP€ 
KYNT6XPHCTE 
XAIP6 


101. 


XIAN€OY 
AICA0ANA 
TOC 

IO2. 

nACIXPATHXPHCT€ 
XAIP€ 

Nos.  100  —  102  found  in  tomb,  with  glass  objects,  at  Idalium. 

103. 

€YTYXHAXPH 
CT€X€P€ 

104. 

ONHCIKPATHXPHC 
T€   XAIP€ 

Nos.  99  —  104  are  from  Idalium. 


105. 
APT€MIAOP€XPHCT€XAIP€ 

From  Alambra.     On  a  mortuary  stele  of  calcareous  stone. 
This  stele  has  a  head  and  bust  in  relief. 


INSCRIPTIONS   IN 
THE   CYPRIOTE   CHARACTER. 

(From  the  Temple  at  Golgoi  when  not  otherwise  stated.) 

1.  On  limestone  with    bas-relief.      Published    by  Prof.   Isaac 

H.  Hall,  Journal  of  American  Oriental  Society,  vol.  x., 
pi.  iv.,  13 ;  Moriz  Schmidt,  Sammlung  kyprischer 
Inschriften,  pi.  xi.,  2.  Ht.  i  ft.  i  in.  x  i  ft.  4  in.  X  i?>  in. 

2.  On    limestone    with     bas-relief.       Hall,     ibid.,    pi.    i.,     i  ; 

Schmidt,  ibid.  pi.  xi.,  3.      Ht.  i  ft.  2  in.  X  i  ft.  x  2  in. 

3.  On  limestone  base  of  statuette  with  feet  attached,  found 

at  Palaeo-Paphos.  Schmidt,  pi.  xvii.,  i.  Ht.  7  in.  x 
6  in.  X4i  in. 

4.  On  fragment  of  bas-relief  with  three  male  figures.      Hall, 

pi.  v.,  21  ;   Schmidt,  pi.  xiii.,  i.      Ht.  7  in.  X  4  in.  X  i  in. 

5.  On  fragment  of  limestone  pedestal.     Schmidt,  pi.  xviii.,  i. 

Ht.  6  in.  x  10  in.  X4  in. 

6.  On  votive  tablet  with  bas-relief.     Hall,  pi.  ii.,  9  ;   Schmidt, 

pi.  xi.,  4.     Ht.  J\  in.  x  ii-if  in.  x  i  in. 

7.  On  votive  tablet  of  limestone.     Hall,  pi.  vii.,  29  ;   Schmidt, 

pi.  x.,  4. 

8.  On    limestone    bas-relief.       Hall,    pi.    vi.,    23 ;    Schmidt, 

pi.  xii.,  i.     Ht.  3  in.  x  6  in.  x  i-if-  in. 

9.  On  the  headdress  of  a  limestone  head.     Hall,  pi.  v.,  20; 

Schmidt,  pi.  xiii.,  4.      Ht.  4  in.  X  2\  in. 

10.  On  fragment  of  base  of  a  large  limestone  statue.    Schmidt, 

pi.  xviii.,  2.     Ht.  4  in.  X  7  in.  x  4  in. 

11.  On    fragment    of   limestone    vase.     Schmidt,    pi.    xix.,    2. 

Ht.  \  in.  X  2|  in. 


438  APPENDIX. 

12.  On  fragment  of  pedestal.     Schmidt,  pi.  xviii.,  3.     Ht.  6  in. 

x  i  ft. 

13.  On  fragment  of  large  limestone  vase  with  relief  of  serpent 

and    -Iclphin     (engraved    p.    144).       Hall,    pi.    iii.,    n  ; 
Schmidt,  pi.  xiv.,  i.      Ht.  i  ft.  1.1  in.  x  ic  in.  X  3}  in. 

14.  On   rim   of  small  limestone   pedestal.      Hall,  pi.  iii.,   12. 

Schmidt,  pi.  xiii.,  2.     Ht.  4^  in.  X3f  in.X3  in. 

15.  On    pedestal    of  limestone    statue.     Schmidt,   pi.  xvi.,   i ; 

Ht.  gf-  in.  x  ii  in.  x  ic  in. 

16.  On  piece  of  limestone.      Hall,  pi.  i;    Schmidt,  pi.  xv.,  i. 

Ht.  8  in.  X  i  ft.  10  in. 

17.  On    circular   alabaster   box.      Schmidt,    pi.    xix.,    i.     Ht. 

i-J  in.  X  dia.  ii  in. 

18.  On  limestone  votive  object  in  shape  of  human  ear.     Hall, 

pi.  ii.,  6;   Schmidt,  pi.  xii..  2.      Ht.  2  in.   X   ii  in. 

19.  On  foot  of  stone  vase  (?)      Diam.  6|  in.   X   i  in. 

20.  On   limestone   handle   of  patera  (?)  terminating  in   ram's 

head.     Hall,  pi.   iv.,    18  ;    Schmidt,  pi.  xii.,  3.      Length 
8f  in. 

21.  On  tablet  representing  religious  ceremony.      Hrdl.  pi.  vi., 

26;   Schmidt,  pi.  xi..  i.      Ht.  i  ft.   X   i  ft.  7   X    I  in. 

22.  On  oblong  alabaster  box  or  small  pedestal.     Ht.  ii  in.   x 

2|  in.    x   i  in. 

23.  On  fragment  of  pedestal.    Schmidt,  pi.  xix..  5.    Length  7  in. 

24.  On  fragment  of  oblong  votive  tablet.     Schmidt,  pi.  xix.,  7. 

Ht.  4.)  in.    X  7   x  |  in. 

25.  On  fragment  of  limestone  pedestal.     Schmidt,   pi.  xx..  5. 

Ht.  8  in   X  5  in.   X  2  in. 

26.  On  fragment  of  limestone  bas-relief.      Schmidt,  pi.  xix.,  6. 

Ht.  8  in.  X  4  in.    x   i-}  in. 

27.  On   fragment  of  pedestal.      Schmidt,   pi.  xx..  i.      Ht.  6  in. 

x  4  x  2.1  in. 

28.  On  fragment  of  limestone  bas-relief.     Schmidt,  pi.  xix.,  8. 

Ht.  3  in  x  4  in.  x   ii. 

29.  On  fragment  of  limestone  pedestal.      Ht.  3^-  in.    x   7  in.   x 

4  in. 

30.  On  fragment  "f  bas-relief.     Schmidt,  pi.  xx.,  2.      Ht.  5  in. 

x   7  in.  x   2  in. 

31.  On  base  of  colossal  statue.      Ht.  i  ft.  4  in.   x   i  ft.  7  in.   X 

7  in. 

32.  On  limestone  pedestal  of  statue.     Schmidt,  pi.  xv.,  2.    Ht. 

i  ft.  2.1-  in.   x    ii  in.    x   nk  in. 


CYPRIOTE    INSCRIPTIONS.  439 

33.  On  terra-cotta  tile,  found   at  Curium.     Ht.   I  ft.  5  in.   x 

9a  m> 

34.  On  small  pedestal  with  bas-relief.     Schmidt,  pi.  xvii.,  2. 

35.  On  fragment  of  limestone  vase  found  at  Pyla.    Hall,  pi.  i., 

2  ;   Schmidt,  pi.  xvi.,  i. 

36.  On  oblong  piece  of  limestone. 

37.  This    inscription    is    to    be   read    as   one   line.     It    occurs 

on  the  horizontal  moulding  of  a  pediment  containing 
bas-relief  of  two  female  figures  with  their  hands  raised 
to  their  heads,  standing  between  two  figures  of  lions, 
and  two  male  figures  with  two  smaller  lions.  Schmidt, 
pi.  xxi.,  i. 

38.  On  an  oval  piece  of  terra-cotta.   Hall,  pi.  vi.,  25;  Schmidt, 

pi.  xiii.,  3.     Diam.  i\  in. 

39.  On   limestone  votive  object  in  shape  of  human  ear.     Ht. 

2  in.   X   if  in. 

40.  On  fragment  of  limestone  pedestal.     Schmidt,  pi.  xvii.,  4. 

Length  7  in. 

41.  On  fragment  of  statuette.     Hall,  pi.  vi.,  28  ;   Schmidt,  pi. 

xvi.,  3.     lit.  9  in.   X  4  in. 

42.  On  base  of  limestone  statuette,  found  in  ruins  of  Temple 

of  Apollo  Hylates,  near  Curium.  Hall,  pi.  viii.,  37  ; 
Schmidt,  pi.  xxi.,  5.  Ht.  i  ft.  2  in. 

43.  On   limestone   statuette,   from  ruins   of  Temple  of  Apollo 

Hylates,  near  Curium.  Hall,  pi.  viii.,  33 ;  Schmidt, 
pi.  xxi.,  4. 

44.  On  fragment  of  terra-cotta  vase,  from  ruins  of  temple  at 

Cythrea.     Ht.  3  in.   X  5  in. 

45.  On  fragment  of  terra-cotta  vase,  from  ruins  of  temple  at 

Cythrea.     Ht.  4  in.   X  6  in. 

46.  On    limestone    box    from    ruins    of    temple    at    Cythrea. 

Ht.  65  in.  x  3  in.  x  4  in. 

47.  On    limestone    box    from    ruins    of    temple    at    Cythrea. 

Ht.  3  in.  x  2  in.  x  4^  in. 

48.  On    fragment  of  limestone    box,   blackened    by  fire,   from 

temple  at  Cythrea.     Ht.  3^  in.   X  2\  in.   x  \  in. 

49.  On  fragment  of  limestone,  blackened  by  fire,  from  temple 

at  Cythrea.     Ht.  2  in.   x   ii  in.   x  •}  in. 

50.  On  fragment  of  limestone  box,  coloured  red,  from  temple 

at  Cythrea.     Ht.  4^  in.   X  2  in.   X   I  in. 

51.  On  fragment  of  limestone,  from  ruins  of  temple  at  Cythrea. 

Ht.  3  in.   X   2   x   |  in. 


440 


APPENDIX. 


52.  On  fragment  of  limestone,  from  ruins  of  temple  at  Cythrea. 

Ht.  2-i-  in.  X   i  in.   x  %  in. 

53.  On  fragment  of  limestone,  blackened  by  fire,  from  ruins  of 

temple  at  Cythrea.     Ht.  4  in   x  2  in.  x  i  in. 

54.  On  fragment  of  limestone,  found  at  Cythrea.     Ht.  2  in. 

x  i  in.  x  ^  in. 

55.  Incised  on  carnelian  intaglio,  with  bearded  head  full  face, 

found  at  Curium. 

56.  On  terra-cotta  lamp,  with  figure  of  Phoenician  deity,  found 

in  a  tomb  at  Carpass.     Hall,  pi.  iv.,  17;  Schmidt,  pi.  xxi., 
3.     Ht.  ii  in.  x  3£  in. 

57.  Deeply  cut  on   fragment  of  limestone,  found   in   ruins  of 

temple  at  Cythrea. 

58.  Deeply  cut  on  piece  of  limestone,  in  ruins  of  the  temple  at 

Curium,  which  had  the  treasure  chambers. 

59.  Deeply  cut  in  piece  of  limestone,  found  with  last. 

60.  On  piece  of  limestone  found  at  Amathus.     Ht.  7  in.   x  5  in. 

x  3  in. 

61.  On  fragment  of  limestone.     Ht.  6  in.   x  2  in. 

62.  On  fragment  of  bas-relief,  representing  a  female  figure  and 

a  child.     Ht.  n  in.   x  3^  in.  x  ^  in. 


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INSCRIPTIONS    IN 
THE    PHOENICIAN    CHARACTER. 

{From  the  ruins  of  a  temple  at  Citiinn  when  not  otherwise  stated.) 

1.  Incised  on  fragment  of  rim  of  marble  vase.     6^  in.X3^-  in. 

2.  Incised  on  fragment  of  block  of  white  marble.    9  in.X5  in. 

3.  Incised  on  fragment  of  marble  patera.     4  in.  X  2\  in. 

4.  Incised  on  fragment  of  marble  block.     3  in.X3  in. 

5.  Incised  on  fragment  of  rim  of  marble  Vase.     3  in. 

6.  Incised  on  fragment  of  marble.     4^  in. 

7.  On  a  terra-cotta  vase,  painted  in  black  letters.    Ht.  2ft.  6  in. 

Found  in  a  tomb  at  Citium. 

8.  On  terra-cotta  vase,  painted  in  black  letters.     From  tomb 

at  Pakeo-Paplios.     Ht.  i  ft.  z\  in. 

9.  On  terra-cotta  vase.      From   tomb   at   Idalium,   engraved 

p.  68.     Ht.  i  ft.  i  in. 

10.  Incised  on  fragment  of  rim  of  marble  vase.      Length  6  in. 

11.  Incised  on  fragment  of  rim  of  marble  vase.      Length  5  in. 

12.  Incised  on  fragment  of  rim  of  marble  vase.      Length  3^,  in. 

13.  Incised  on  fragment  of  white  marble.      Length  i'\  in. 

14.  On  fragment  of  rim  of  marble  patera.      Length  ()\  in. 

15.  On  fragment  of  rim  of  marble  bowl.      Length  3  in. 

16.  On  fragment  of  rim  of  marble  vase.      Length  2  in. 

17.  On  fragment  of  rim  of  marble  vase.      Length  \\  in. 

18.  On  handle  of  marble  vase  (fragment).      Length  :  .1  in. 

19.  Incised  on  fragment  of  rim  of  marble  vase.      Length  3  in. 

20.  Incised  on  fragment  of  rim  of  marble  vase.      Length  i\  in. 

21.  Incised  on  fragment  of  rim  of  marble  vase.      Length  2  in. 

22.  On  fragment  of  white  marble.      Length  i  \  in. 

i  i 


442 


APPENDIX. 


28 
29 


23-  On  fragment  of  marble  vase.     Length  4^  in. 

24.  On  a  terra-cotta  vase,  painted  in  black  letters.    From  tomb 

at  Curium. 

25.  Incised  on   alabaster  vase.     From  tomb  at   Citium.      Ht. 

ii J  in. 

26.  Incised   on  red  terra-cotta  vase.     From  tomb  at  Citium. 

Ht.  6^  in. 

27.  Incised  on  foot  of  serpentine  vase,  purchased  in  bazaar  at 

Nicosia.     Engraved  p.  248. 
On  terra-cotta  vase.     From  tomb  at  Citium. 
On  terra-cotta  vase.     From  tomb  at  Citium. 
30.  Incised  on  marble  fragment. 


Terra-cotta  vase  from  a  tomb  at  Curium. 


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INDEX. 


A'AI.I  PASHA 

A'AI.I  PASHA,  Grand  Vizier       .     . 
Aborigines  of  Cyprus 
Acamas,  Cape,  ruins  near  . 
Aclieropiti,  convent  of   . 
"Aes  Cyprium,"  copper    .        .     . 
Ethiopians  in  Cyprus    . 
Agamemnon  in  Cyprus       .         .     . 
Agapenor,  Arcadian  colonist 
Agate  sceptre     ...         .     . 
Aghios  Dimitri,  ruins  at 

—  Ermojeni,  village  of 

—  I  feraclidion,  village  of 
Jorgos,  church  of    .         .     . 

—  Nicholas,  convent  of   . 

—  Pantelemoni    .        .        .     . 
Paraskeva,  antiquities  at 

—  Photios,  excavations  at    .     . 
Tychona,  legend  of  the  church 

—  Tychona,  village  of  .     . 
Alabaster,  vases  in           ... 

•  vases,  Amathus         .         .     . 
Alambra,  bronzes  found  at 
Amathus,  history  of  .          .          .     . 

•  fine  sarcophagus  found  at     . 

•  mode  of  construction 

—  ruins  of          .... 

—  tombs  at  .          .          .          .     . 

—  tools  used  in  excavating 
Amethyst,  ring  set  with 
Amphora    stamped    with    head    of 

Helios       .... 

—  with  birds  and  trees         .     . 
Andreas,  Cape  St.  . 

Animals,  vases  in  form  of  .         .     . 
Aphrodisium,  .site  of 
Aphrodite,  worship  of         .         .     . 
Apollo  Hylates,  Temple  of     . 
Apellon,  village  of      .          .          .      . 
Aqueduct  of  Sta  Napa   . 


PAGE 
170 

226 
234 

7 
3 

251 
219 

3°9 
285 
296 
282 
225 

347 
232 
246 
116 


54 
275 

84 
249 
264 
256 
252 

255 

ib. 

310 

215 

347 

2C3 

98 

239 
8 

343 
343 
187 


BRAGADINO 

Aqueduct  of  Curium  .  .  .  . 
Arabs  take  Cyprus 
Artaxer.xes  Ochus  .  .  .  . 
Artists,  Cypriote  .... 
Asbestos,  where  found  .  .  . 
Askerieh,  tax  for  exemption  from 

military  service 

Asps,  abounding  at  Curium  .  . 
Asses,  fine  breed  of  ... 
Assyrian  influence  on  Lycian  art  . 

—  painted  vases 

—  remains  found .         .         .     . 

—  style,  statues  in  the 
Astarte,  Urania  .         .         ... 

—  figure  of,  Amathus 
Athieno  (Golgoi),  site  of    .         .     . 
Athenians  invade  Cyprus 

Aziz  Pasha,  Governor-general    .     . 


Banquet,  bas-relief  of      .         .     107, 
Barnabas,  St.,  church  of    . 
"  Bath  of  Aphrodite  " 

Besbes,  dragoman  .  .  .  . 
Boar  hunt  ..... 
Bocarus,  ruins  on  the 
Boker,  lion.  Ceo.  II.,  American 
Minister  ..... 
Bone-caves  ...  .  . 
Bones,  accumulations  of,  Amathus 
Horr  Kr/rofor  .... 

Boy,  marble  .statue  of 
Boys  wearing  amulets 
Bracelets  of  King  Eteandros 

—  set  with  large  sardonyx 
•     with  lion  heads 

Bragadino.   his    heroic    defence    of 
Famagosta 

—  cruel  death  of  . 


PAGE 

342 
30 

25 

II 

217 

1  86 

341 
178 
268 

247 
246 
130 

19 
275 
105 

24 
1  86 

281 
149 
202 
218 

173 

107 
214 

66 

183 

281 

8 

346 

347 

306 

12 


40 


444 


INDEX. 


BRICKS 

Bricks,  sun-dried,  used  in  Cyprus  . 
Bronze  bowl,  with  dancers 

-  amis,  great  deposit  of 

—  articles,  Curium  . 

-  articles,  Dali  .          .          .      . 

-  great  mass  of  articles    . 

—  statuette  .          .          .      . 
Buffavento,  castle  of       ... 

CAIMAKAM  of  Larnaca,    his  inter- 
ference    .... 

-  his  punishment 
Callinicus,  L.  Vitellius  . 
Calocerus,  revolt  of  .          .          .      . 
Camels'  bones  in  tombs 
Candelabra,  bronze  .          .          . 
Capitals,  ancient,  how  utilized 
Carlotta  Lusignan     .          .          .      . 

-  bequeaths  Cyprus  to  Charles, 

Duke  of  Savoy 
Carob  trees,  immense 
"  Castello  de'ile  cento  camere  " 
Catalinia,  ruins  at  .          . 

Catharine  Cornaro,  married  tojames 

II.,  Lusignnn  . 

—  resigns      the      kingdom      to 

Venice         .          •          • 
Cats,  snake-killing 
Cave  of  Venus  .          .... 
Cave  of  the  Forty  Saints 
Cemetery  of  Curium  .          .  29: 

— •     of  Idalium  .... 

—  of  Xeo-Paphos 

-  of  Soli         .          .          .          . 
Cerynia,  affray  with  the  natives  at . 

bishop  of,   his  hospitality    . 

—  history  of    . 

Cjsnola,  Gen.  di,  arrives  at  Larnaca 

—  concludes   his   operations   in 

Cyprus         .          .          .      . 

—  collection  of 

—  his  country  house  at  Dali     . 

—  summer  residence  described 

—  obtains  a  lirman   for  excava- 

tions         .          .          .          . 

—  offered    command    of  Creek 

cavalry     .          .  .          . 

—  scene  at  his  landing 
Chapel  made  of  a  1'lnenician  tomb 
Chariots  in  terra-cotta    . 

( !hee>e^  of  Acatu        .          .          .      . 
Cinyradie,  -tatues  of 
Cinvradaj  (Larnaca),  history  of 


PAGK  '  CYPRIOTE 

139  Cinyras  sends  armour  to  Agamemnon 

75  history  of. 

97  Cippi,  sepulchral,   Larnaca 

338  Citiuin  founded      .... 

75  -     Assyrian  sculpture   found  at 

274  -     (Larnaca'1,  history  of   . 

345  Clarius,  river     .          .          .          . 

238  Cleaning  sculptures,  mode  of. 

Climate  of  Cyprus      .          .          . 

'•  Coffin  of  terra-cotta 

56  Coin.-.,  found  at  Neo-Paphos 

59  Colonna-Ceccaldi,  Mr.  . 

253  Colossal  head,  Golgoi 

30  Assyrian  statue,  Co'goi    . 

282  Conscription  in  Cyprus 

337  Constantinople,  museum  at     . 

231  Cook's  excursionists,  invasions  of    . 

33  Copper-mining  first  introduced  . 

-     articles,  where  abundant 
36  •     mines,  traces  of  . 

231  Costume  of  priests     .          .          . 
240  Crawford,  Gen.  S.  \V.    . 

181  Cresonerki,  village  of  .     . 

Cretan  rebellion,  the 

34  Crusader's  tomb,  Acheropiti 

•  Crusaders,  tombs  opened  by  . 

36  Crystal  unguentarium.  Curium  . 

348  Cuneiform  alphabet  of  Cyprus 
218  —         when  and  by  whom  read 

183  table  of  characters      .      16 

,  296  Curium,  temple  discovered 

82    ,          —       history  of  .          . 

223  rock-cut  fortifications  of 

229  site  described    . 

235  tombs  .          .          .          .      . 

232  treasure  vaults  opened 
234  view  of 

41    I  Cybele,  head  of          .          .          .     . 

statue  of.  at  Soli 

348  Cylinders  in  serpentine      .         . 

4s I  Cyprus,  Henna  plant 
62  ancient  names  for 

179  Chittim  of  the  Jews  . 

compared     in    >hape    to    a 

deer's  >kin 
name  derived 
170    I  regal  government  of 

45  S.  L.  coast  explored 

49  whence  colonised 

91  "Cyprian  Iliad,''  the 

238  Cypriote  alphabet  first  made  out     . 
I  5  art.  it-  character 

48  inscription.-,  found 


I'AGK 
4 
2O 

54 
3 

47 

46 
6 

142 
7,62 
190 
223 

76 
123 
143 
1 86 
172 
170 
219 
277 
282 
180 
224 
225 
165 
234 
269 

325 
15 

i/>. 

•  17 
301 

298 
294 
299 
295 
302 

293 
191 
229 
305 


149 


INDEX 


CYPRIOTE 
Cypriote  language 
Cythrea,  ruins  of  .         .     . 

DEMETER  PARALIA,  temple  of 

statuette  of    . 

Demetrius  Poliorcetes  invades  Cy- 
prus ..... 
Depopulation  of  Cyprus,  causes  of 
Destructive  mania  of  natives  .  . 
"  Diamond  of  Paphos'1. 
Dish,  placed  under  hand  of  corpse 
Drepano,  tombs  at  .  .  .  . 

EARRINGS  found  at  Curium    . 

with  pendant  shrine 
Echo,  remarkable,  at  Paphos 
Egyptian  remains,  Poli . 

-  amulets,    Amathus          .     . 

-  conquest  of  Cyprus 

—  statues,  Golgoi        .         .     . 

-  style,  statues  in  the 
Embargo     on     sculptures,     clever 

evasion  of           .... 
Embroidery,    Cypriote 
Esar-haddon  receives  tribute  from 
Soli 

-  Cypriote  kings  tributaries  to 
Eteandros,  king  of  Paphos,  bracelets 

of 

Evagoras  defeats  the  Persians    . 
king  of  Salamis 

Evil  eye,  how  averted 

Execution,  Turkish  mode  of . 

Exportation  of  antiquities  forbid- 
den .  .  .  .  .  . 

FAMAGOSTA  taken  by  the  Genoese 

-  built  with    the  materials  of 

Salamis       .      . 

—  description  of          ... 
• —     siege  of        .... 

—  the  ancient  Ammochostos    . 
Feet,  votive,  Paphos 
Fire-raising  on  mountain 
Flute-player,  terra-cotta    . 

"  Forty  Saints,"  Cave  of  the 

Footstools  in  stone,  with  bas-reliefs 
of  Chiirux-ra,  and  Lion  killing 
Hull,  Golgoi  .... 

Fortresses  dismantled  by  the  Ve- 
netians .  .  .  .  . 

Friederiehs,  Dr.     . 

Funeral  procession,  on  a  tomb  . 


PAGE 

14 

242 

52 
5° 

27 
193 
254 
217 
298 
225 

310 
297 
212 
226 
274 

18 

145 


i7S 

12 


306 

24 
200 
271 
248 


33 

194 

ib. 

& 
192 
207 
286 
344 
18 


159 


lALUSSA  J>AGE 

GATTO,  Cape,  origin  of  name  .     348 
Gems,  engraved  (see  Appendix) 

Genab  E fiend i       .         .         .  -57 

George,  St.,  popular  in  Cyprus  .     346 

"  ( Jergithios,"  the     .          .         .  .        14 
Geryon,    Hercules    driving   off  the 

cattle  of,  bas-reliefs .  .      136 

-  statue  of,  Golgoi     .          .  .      156 
Glass  ware,  Dali   .         .         .  .71 
Gold  ornaments,  Curium  .          .  .     312 

Egyptian  patera  in       .  .316 

-  ornaments,  Dali      .          •  •        73 

—  rings  found,  Amathus.  .      278 

-     Curium       .  ,     297 

-  staters,  great  find  of     .  .56 
Golgoi,  temple  of,  how  destroyed  .      163 

-  Aphrodite  found  at  .  .       ib. 

-  cemetery  of          .          .  .102 

—  history  of  .          .  .      106 

-  method    followed    in    exca- 

vating    .  .          .  .140 

-  sarcophagus  found  at       .  .      107 

-  temple  discovered         .  .116 

-  temple  of,  described        .  .      139 
Governor-General  of  Cyprus,   dis- 
pute with    .         .         .  .        58 

-  makes  satisfaction         .  .        59 
Greek  colonies  in  Cyprus .          .  .        21 

-  sculptures,  Golgoi         .  .152 
"  Great  Council "  of  Cyprus       .  .      146 
Green-glazed  terra-cotta          .  .      101 

HADJI  JORCIII,  story  of    .          .      .  83 

Hall,  Prof.  Isaac  II.       .          .          .  224 

Hegesias,  Cypriote  poet     .         .      .  13 

Helena  Palajologus  33 
Helena,  St.,  builds  church  on  Santa 

Croce  .  .  .  .  . 
Hellenic  subjects  expelled  Cyprus  . 
Ilelopolis  used  at  siege  of  Salamis  . 
Ileraclius,  gold  of,  common  in 

Cyprus  .....  209 

Hercules,  colossal  statue  of         .      .  133 

Tynan,  of  Amathus     .          .  250 

-     terra-cotta  figure  of          .      .  ib. 

Hierarchy,  Cypriote       .          .          .  10 

Hilarion,  St.,  village  of     .          .      .  238 

Hippodrome  of  Curium           .          .  338 

Hitchcock,  Mr.  Hiram      .          .      .  196 

Human  sacrifices   ....  250 


446 


INDEX. 


PAGE 

345 
63 
64 
67 

256 


ICONOCLASTS 

Iconoclasts,  work  of  .  .  .  . 
Idalium  (Dali),  site  of  . 

—  explored  by  Count  de  Vogue 

—  tombs,  arrangement  of    .     . 
Immense  blocks  of  stone 

Intagli  found  at  Curium  (see  App.) 
Iridescent  glass  .  .  .  . 
Ivory,  bas-relief  in  . 


JEWS  in  Cyprus,  revolt  of  the  .  .  30 
Johnson,  Aug.  J.,  American  Con- 

sul-General  at  Beirut  .  .  58 
Johnston,  John  T.,  Pres.  X.  Y.  Art 

Museum 353 


KANTAKA,  fortress  of     . 

Kara  Ahmet,  an  incendiary        .     . 

Kattirdji  Janni,  the  bandit,  story  of 

King,  Rev.  C.  W.  .         .         x. 

Kingdoms  of  Cyprus,  the  ten     .     . 

Koloni,  village  of    . 

Kouklia,  the  site  of  Paphos        .     . 

Ktima,  fanatical  Turks  of 

—  taught  better  manners 
Kufi,  Asp 

LAMP  in  form  of  temple     .         .     . 
Lamps  of  terra-cotta,  Dali 

—  of  Roman  date          .         .     . 
Lang, Mr.,  British  Consul  for  Cyprus 

—  excavates  at  Dali 

—  quoted      .         .... 
Lapai's,  the  abbey  .... 
Lapethus,  river  .         .         .         .     . 

-  site  of  . 

"  Larnaca  of  Lapethus  "     . 
Larnaca,  appearance  of . 

—  "  Marina "  of  .          .          .      . 

—  name  derived 

—  the  last  view  of  . 
Latin    churches    destroyed    at    the 

Turkish  conquest    . 
Lefca,  beautiful  vegetation  around. 
Leo-Petro,  poultry-breeders  at  . 
Lepers,  account  of  ... 

Leucolia,  site  of          .... 

-  cemetery  of  . 
Leucosia,  now  Nicosia 
I.ima»n],  siege  of  . 

-  ( invernnr  of,  his  visit 

"  Lino-bambaki "  Christians  . 
1  .usiunan  dynasty        .          .          .     . 
I.U-UM!  vase  in  stone.  Golgoi 
Luynes,  Due  de,  bronze  tablet  of  . 


240 
286 
196 
353 

2  ^ 
217 
204 
22O 
221 
238 

157 
71 

ib. 
Si 
82 
18 

237 
6 

233 

42 
ib. 

45 
350 


244 
191 
192 
244 
38 
289 
185 


PAPHOS 

MARBLE  SARCOPHAGUS,  Amathus. 

"Masons'    Marks",  on    mediaeval 
ashlar .         .         .         .         .     . 

Mehemet  Bey  of  Ktima      .     . 

Mchemet  Kaiserly   Pasha   conveys 
two  cases  of  antiquities 

Melicertes,  figures  of 

Metallurgy  in  Cyprus          .         .     . 

Midnight  scene  at  Golgoi 

Monolith,    perforated,     still     held 
sacred  .         .         ... 

Monoliths  of  granite,  Paphos. 

Moro,  Cristoforo,  "Othello"' 

Morris,  Hon.  L.  J.,  American  min- 
ister at  Constantinople    . 

Mosaic  pavement,  Paphos 
—          Curium 

Mountains  of  Cyprus  .         .     . 

Mulas,  ruins  at        .... 

Muleteers  of  Cyprus  .         .         .     . 

Murray,  A.  S.          .         .         x.,  342 

Mustafa,  consular  cavass 

"Mysteries  of  Venus,"  explanation 
of,  demanded       .         .         .     . 

NAPA,  Sta,  convent  of   . 
Napoleon  III.  intends  securing  the 
Golgoi  statues     .         .         .     . 
Necklace  with  Gorgon,  Curium 
Neo-Paphos,  site  of        ... 
Nicocles,  king  of  Paphos    . 
Nicosia,  antiquities  of     . 

—  a  Turkish  convict  prison 
Nocturnal  intruder,  a         .         . 

(K.NOCHOK,  painted,  Amathus 

painted  with  horseman, 

archaic         ...         .     . 

Olympus,  Mount     .... 

—  now  Troodes    .         .         .     . 
Onesilos,  where  slain 

—  of  Salamis         .         .         . 
Ormidia,  cemetery  near  . 
Osman  Aga,  his  buried  treasure 
Ossuaries,   formed    from    relics    of 

battles 

Oven-shaped  tombs    .    .   66, 
Ox-head,  borne  as  svmbol 


great 


PAGE 

270 


189 
214 
195 

65 

212 

301 

5 

238 

105 

394 


171 

187 

1  70 

317 

219 

26 

246 

247 
287 

273 

334 
5 

215 
192 

23 
181 

208 


INDEX. 


447 


PAGE 

Paphos,  measurements  of  Temple  .  210 

•  palace    of     .          .          .         •  206 

•  ruins  of  temple        .          .     .  210 
—     son  of  Venus       ...  20 

temple,  view   of                .  205 

Patreci,  figures  of'.          .          .          •  264 

Patera,  gold  Egyptian        .         .     .  316 

— -     in  the   Egyptian  style           .  330 

-  silver,  with  Phoenician  reliefs  329 

-  silver,  with  Phoenician  reliefs, 

Amathus       .          .          .     .  279 

with   antelopes  and    papyri  337 

Paul,  St. ,  where  flogged          .          .  223 

-    visits  Paphos    .          .          .      .  29 

Paulus,  Sergius,  at  Soli           .          .  229 

Pedestals,  inscribed,  Paphos      .      .  213 

Pegasus  and  Chrysaor    .          .          .112 

Peplos,      dedicated      to      Athena 

Alea 219 

Perforated  stones  at  Paphos    .          .211 

Pergamos,  ruins  of     .          .          .  239 
Perseus   and  Gorgon,  bas-relief  on 

sarcophagus    .          .          .          .113 

Persians  take  Cyprus          .          .      .  23 

"  Phaneromene,''  the,  of  Larnaca  .  49 

Phoenician  cities  in  Cyprus     .  21 

•  Greek  inscription    .          .      .  233 

—  inscriptions  on  vase    .           .  68 

•  painted  vases       .              •     •  55 

•  patera,  Curium    .         .         .  329 

•  remains  at  Larnaca          .      .  49 

•  silver  paterce,   notices  of       .  330 

•  tombs,  Curium    .          .          .  297 

—  vases,  Dali      .         .         .     .  68 
Phoenicians  in  Cyprus    ...  2 
Pit-granaries  {African  "silos''),   at 

Curium          ....  341 
Pnytagoras  made  king  of  Citium  by 

Alexander           .         .          .      . 
Poli,  Egyptian  remains  at 
Porcelain  dishes  used  in  Gothic  wall- 
decoration  .          .          .      .  242 
Egyptian  amulets  in     .          .  274 
Potamia  palace,  treasure  trove  at    .  98 
Potters'  stamps           .          .  21 6 
Pottery,    Cypriote    (see   Appendix* 
Priests    of    Cyprus,     ancient     and 

modern  .          .          .          .          .180 

Ptolemy,  last  king  of  Cyprus      .     .  28 

—  submits  to  M.  Cato      .          .  29 

•  takes  Cyprus  .          .          .      .  26 

•  135 


SOPHIA  PAGE 

REVOLTS  of  Cyprus .         .         .     .  23 

Richard  of  England  takes  Cyprus  .  31 

sells  Cyprus  to 

the  Templars  32 

—  —   to  Guy  de  Lusignan    .  ib. 
Rifled  tomb,  scene  in  a  .         .         .  272 
Rings,  gold,  of  uncertain  use     .     .  309 

•  votive,  Curium  (see  Appendix) 
Roman  tombs  .          .          .          .      .  179 

Romans,  the,  take  Cyprus      .         .  28 

Raskin,  Mr.       .          .          .          .      .  152 

"Russian"  acts  for   "American" 

Consul       .          .          .          .     .  174 

SAID,  Pasha,  goVernor-general       .  167 

-  his  compliment        .          .      .  176 
Salamis,  battles  of          .         .         .192 

•  history  of        .          .          .      .  199 

-  ruins  of       ....  201 

—  sculptures  from       .          .      .  202 
Samian  vase,  from  Soli  .         .         .  230 
Sandwith,  Mr.,  mistake  of          .     .  82 
Sarcophagi  broken  by  tomb-robbers  272 

—  cut  out  of  living  rock   .          .  295 

—  Roman,  Lapa'i's        .         .     .  237 
Sarcophagus  found  at  Amathus       .  264 

-  mode  of  lifting         .          .     .  288 
Phoenician,  Larnaca     .         .  53 

• —     Roman,  Larnaca     .          .      .  54 

•  with  legend  of  Perseus          .  113 
Scarabs  found  .          .          ...  305 
Sculpture  in  Cyprus       .          .          .II 
Selim  II.  invades  Cyprus  .         •      •  37 
Sepulchral    stelce    with    lions,    and 

with  sphinxes  .         .         .112 

•  with  Ionic  capitals,  Golgoi  .  115 
Sepulchre,  family,  sketch  of  .          .  224 
Shield,     with     reliefs     in     bronze, 

Amathus         .         .         .     274,   283 

Ships,  in  terra-cotta,  Amathus  .      .  259 

Siegismund,  Dr.  Justus,  fate  of      .  271 

Signet-rings,  found  at  Curium    .      .  308 

Golgoi           .  117 

Signet,  immense  gold         .  310 

Silver  ornaments,  Curium       .          .  327 

bowl,  Golgoi            .          .      .  117 

Simeon  the  hermit           .          .          .  240 

Sites,  ancient,  how  best  discovered  184 

Skulls  collected,  Dali         .          •      •  79 

-  at  Alambra          ...  88 
Skeleton  tree     ...          .  278 
Soli,  site  and  history  of ,         .         .  227 
Sophia,  btu,  of  .Nicosia     .          .      .  247 


INDEX. 


SPHINXES 
Sphinxes  over  doorways 

on  sarcophagus  lid 
"Splanchnoptes,"  the    . 
Stasinos,  Cypriote  poet 
Statue  of  young  Roman 
Stolen  antiquities,  ho\v  recovered   . 
Styppax,  Cypriote  sculptor 
Sword    sent    to    Alexander    from 
Citium    ..... 

TEMPLARS,  the,  buy  Cyprus     .     . 
Terra- cottas  found  at  Larnaca 
Terra-cotta  heads,  life  size 

from  Soli 

"  Terra d'umbra"  found  near  Larnaca 
Theocharis,  chief  digger    . 
Throni,  Cape  Pyla 

site  of  ancient 

Tomb  at  Amathus,  plan  of    . 
Tombs  at  Dali  .         .         .     . 

constructed  of  huge  blocks  . 
—     superimposed  on  Phoenician 

interments 

the  oldest  in  Cyprus       .      . 
Torch-bearer,  terra-cotta  figure 
"  Torre  del  Moro,"  Famagosta 
Travelling  in  Cyprus  .         .          109, 
Treasure-vaults,  Curium,  found . 
ground  plan  of 
Tremitus,  now  Tremitusa 
"  Trimming  the  tomb  " 
Tripod  in  bronze,  Curium 
Turkish  population,  decay  of     . 

system  of  correspondence  . 
Turks  take  Cyprus 
Tyrian  religion  brought  into  Cyprus 


UNGUENTARIUM  in  crystal 

YAKOSSIA  founded  by  the  expelled 

natives  of  Famagosta 
Vases,    remarkable,    Cypriote    (see 

Appendix) 
Vase,  with  biga  race 

•    painted  with  antelopes  and 
cranes      .... 


PAGF. 

260 

207 

I  I 

13 

24O 

126 

II 

10 

32 

5° 
242 
230 
218 
271 
181 

183 

260 

66 

256 

72 
203 
250 

195 
177 

303 

3°4 
246 

3°3 
335 
193 

147 
39 
19 

325 


192 


ZEUS  PAGR 

Vases  with  early  decoration        .     .  181 

-  terra-cotta,  Alambrn.   .          .  92 

—  with  doulflc  spouts           .     .  95 

—  with    incised    and    coloured 

decoration  .          .  93 

-  of  terra-cotta,  Dali        .          .  77 

-  of  the  Trojan  kind            .     .  102 
Venetian  arms  preserved  at  Fama- 
gosta         .          .          .          .      .  195 

Venice  obtains  Cyprus    ...  36 

loses  it    .         .         .  39 

Venus  Acraea,  temple  of         .          .  5 

-  Garden  of        .          .          .      .  218 

-  statuette,  Golgoi .          .          .157 
terra-cotta  figures  of,  Alam- 
bra .         .         .         .88 

-  the  Bearded,  of  Amathus     .  132 

—  where  she  first  appeared       .  213 

-  -worship,  vestiges  of        .     .  189 
Veil,  thin,  of  what  an  evidence       .  222 

-  of  the  Temple,  Ephesus        .  12 
Veiled  female  statue  .          .          .     .  285 
Vespasian  rebuilds  Temple  of  Paphos  205 
Vogue,  Count  de,  explores  Golgoi  137 

-  erroneous  statement  of  30x3 

-  at  Amathus        .          .  253 
Vondiziano,  M.  Andrea    .  116 
Votive  tablets,  Golgoi    .         .         .158 
Vultures,  numerous  .          .         .     .  227 

WATER-BOTTLES  in  terra-cotta      .  102 

—  -carrier,  figure  of          .          .  300 

—  -conveyance  in  Greece     .      .  342 
Whorls  in  terra-cotta  and  serpentine  102 

224 


Xanthus,  marble  frieze  from 
—     doorway,  represented 


261,  265 
260 


ZAPTIEH,  Turkish  policeman 

how  utilized    . 
Zeno,  supposed  head  of 

-     of  Citium 
Zeus   Splanchnotomos   of  Salamis 


121 
123 
153 
H 
199 


THE  CESNOLA  COLLECTION 

IN    THE 

METROPOLITAN   MUSEUM  OF  ART, 

NEW  YORK. 


BY  JOHN    TAYLOR   JOHNSTON,  ESQ., 

PRESIDENT  OF  THE   MUSEUM. 


THE  CESNOLA  COLLECTION 


OK 


CYPRIOTE    ANTIQUITIES 


METROPOLITAN  MUSEUM  OF  ART,  NEW  YORK. 


BY  JOHN  TAYLOR  JOHNSTON,  ESQ.. 

PRESIDENT   OF   THE    MUSEUM. 


THE  written  and  verbal  reports  made  from  time  to  time  to 
the  Trustees  of  the  Metropolitan  Museum  of  Art  by  General  di 
Cesnola,  and  an  examination  of  the  Collections  now  in  the  Mu- 
seum, enable  us  to  arrive  at  the  grand  results  of  his  eleven 
years'  work  in  Cyprus,  which  may  be  summarized  as  follows : 

He  explored  and  identified  the  sites  of  the  following  ancient 
royal  cities:  I.  Amathus;  2.  Cerynia;  3.  Citium  ;  4.  Golgos  or 
Golgoi  ;  5.  Lapethus  ;  6.  Neo-Paphos  ;  7.  Salamis  ;  8.  Palaeo- 
Paphos. 

He  discovered  also  the  ruins  of  the  following  royal  cities 
mentioned  by  Strabo,  Ptolemy,  and  other  ancient  authors:  I. 
Ammochostos  (where  now  stands  Famogosta);  2.  Aphrodisium; 
3.  Carpassia  ;  4.  Curium;  5.  Cythrea ;  6.  Marium  ;  /.  Soli  (or 
Soloi,  as  in  Greek  inscriptions);  8.  Tamassus. 

Likewise  sites  of  the  following  ancient  towns,  some  of  which 
are  mentioned  by  ancient  geographers:  I.  Arsinoe;  2.  Avdimo ; 
3.  Catalima  ;  4.  Curi  ;  5.  /Epcja  ;  6.  Lcucolla  ;  /.  Larnaca  of 
Lapethus;  8.  Melussa  ;  9.  Mulas  ;  10.  Pergamos  ;  11.  Throni  ; 
12.  Tremitus. 


452     THE  CESNOLA  COLLECTION  OF  CYPRIOTE  ANTIQUITIES. 

He   discovered   and   explored   the    following   fifteen    ancient 
temples  :  * 

One  dedicated  to  Artemis  Paralia  at  Citium. 
One  "  Baal  Keseph  (?)  at  Citium. 

One  "  Venus  at  Golgos. 

One  "  Cybele  at  Soli. 

Two  Aphrodite  at  Palaeo-Paphos. 

One  Apollo  Hylates  near  Curium. 

One  "  Cybele  at  Leucolla. 

One  Hercules  at  Larnaca  of  Lapethus. 

One  Venus  at  Cythrea. 

One,  dedication  unknown,  at  Cythrea 

One  "  "  "   Aphrodisium. 

Two  "          "   Neo-Paphos. 

One  (where  "the  treasure"  was  found)  at  Curium. 

He  discovered  and  explored  the  following  Necropoli : 

One  at  Dali  (Idalium),  containing  about  25,000  tombs  (about  150  of  which 

were  Greek  tombs  found  over  Phoenician  ones). 
Five  east  of  and  near  Dali,  containing  about  2500  tombs. 

One  at  Alambra  "              "  82  " 

One  at  Golgos  "  1500  " 

One  at  Mclussa  "              "  300  " 

One  at  Aghios  Parascheva  "              "  2300  " 

One  at  Ormidia  "             "  3000  " 

One  at  Timbo  "              "  no  " 

One  at  Avgoro  "  400  " 

One  at  Tamassus  "              "  300  " 

Three  at  Citium  "              "  5900  " 

Three  at  Amathus  "  1800  " 

Two  at  Palaeo-Paphos  "              "  800  " 

One  at  Neo-Paphos  "  160  " 

One  at  Aphrodisium  "              "  70  " 

One  at  Carpassia  "  500  " 

One  at  Pala.'0-Castro  "  600  " 

One  at  Leucolla  "              "  900  " 

One  at  Marium  "  1500  " 

One  at  (Epeja  "  20  " 

One  at  Arsinoe  "  400  " 

Two  at  Soli  "              "  500  " 

One  at  Lapethus  "  200  " 

One  at  Acrhios  Sesomini  "              "  100  " 


THE  CESNOLA  COLLECTION  OF  CYPRIOTE  ANTIQUITIES.     453 


Two  at  Larnaca  of  Lapethus,  containing  about  700  tombs. 

One  at  Catalima  "      200  " 

One  at  Paralimni  "      120  " 

One  at  Salamis  "      600  " 

One  at  Curi  "          only  a  few  " 

One  at  Avclimo  "        about  2000  " 

One  at  Maroni  "      1000  " 

One  at  Tremitus  or  Tremithus         "  "      1700  " 

One  at  Gallinoporni  "        100  " 

One  at  Aradippo  70  " 

One  at  Pyla  "             "        200  " 

One  at  Limnia  "        400  " 

One  at  Davlos  "         only  a  few  " 

One  at  Crusoko  "           about  300  " 

One  at  Curium  "      400  " 

One  at  Maratovno  "      100  " 

One  at  Potamia  "         only  a  few  " 

Two  at  Cerynia  "         about  1000  " 

One  at  Lemba  "          only  a  few  " 

One  at  Aghios  Heraclidion  about  500  " 

One  at  Petra  "               "      200  " 

One  at  Tricomo  "    1000  " 

One  at  Aghios  Theodoros  "              "      500  " 

One  at  Corno  "          only  a  few  " 

One  at  Episkopi  "          about  200  " 

One  at  Lurigina  "      300  " 

One  at  Kossi  "               "       100  " 

One  at  Aghios  Andronicos  "               "      300  " 

One  at  Pirga  "          only  a  few  " 

Total  Necropoli,  65. 
Total  Tombs,  60,932. 

lie  discovered  the  following  six  ancient  aqueducts: 

One  at  Citium  (west  of  Larnaca). 
One  at  Amathus  (northeast  of  the  ruins). 
One  at  Curium  (north  of  the  ancient  city). 
One  at  Sta.  Xapa  (cast  of  Catalima). 
One  at  Carpassia  (west  of  the  ruins). 
One  at  Lapethus  (south  of  the  mountains). 

The  following  objects  are  the  results  of  the  explorations; 

Assyrian  Inscriptions  (on  cylinders) 

Phoenician         "  (on  marble  and  tcrra-cotta  vases) 

Cypriote  "  

Greek  "  

Coins  (in  gold,  silver,  and  copper) 

Vases 14,240 


4 
30 
62 

I05 

2110 


454     T1IE  CESXOLA  COLLECTION  OF  CYPRIOTE  ANTIQUITIES. 

Statues  in  stone,  marble,  and  terra-cotta 2110 

Busts  and  Heads  in  marble  and  terra-cotta 4200 

Mortuary  Cippi  and  Stelas 138 

Bas-reliefs  in  marble,  stone,  and  terra-cotta 270 

Sculptured  Sarcophagi  in  marble  and  stone 4 

Engraved  Gems,  Cylinders,  and  Scarabei 1090 

Glass  Vases,  Bottles,  Cups,  Plates,  Amulets,  etc 37 '9 

Serpentine  Stone,  Haematite,  and  Egyptian  Enamelled-ware. .  . .  472 

Objects  in  gold  * 1 599 

"          silver 370 

"          copper  and  bronze 2107 

"  alabaster  and  rock-crystal 146 

ivory,  bone,  lead,  and  iron 217 

Terra-cotta  Lamps 2380 


Total . 


About  5000  of  these  objects  were  unfortunately  lost  at  sea 
near  the  coast  of  Syria,  in  1871,  while  on  their  way  to  America. 

A  large  and  judiciously  selected  collection  was  transferred  to 
the  Ottoman  government  by  the  explorer  as  a  royalty  for  the 
firman  granted  him. 

Various  specimens  were  also  gratuitously  presented  by  General 
di  Cesnola  to  the  following  museums:  the  Imperial  Ottoman 
Museum  at  Constantinople;  the  Royal  Museum  at  Munich  ;  the 
Egyptian  Museum  at  Turin;  the  Anthropological  Museum  at 
Turin;  the  Archaeological  Society  at  Athens;  the  Museum  at 
Perugia  ;  the  Smithsonian  Institute  at  Washington  ;  and  the 
British  and  St.  Petersburg  Museums  were  permitted  to  take 
casts  and  copies  of  the  inscriptions. 

Sales  were  also  made  of  small  collections  to  the  Berlin  Mu- 
seum, the  Cambridge  Museum,  the  Kensington  Museum,  and 
the  Boston  Museum  of  Art. 

These  losses  and  transfers,  however,  were  mainly  of  dupli- 
cates, and  in  nowise  detract  from  the  completeness  of  the  grand 
collections,  which  comprise  about  two  thirds  of  all  the  objects 
found,  including  the  whole  of  the  inscriptions  and  statues,  and 
which  are  now  the  property  of  the  Metropolitan  Museum  of  Art. 

Cyprus,  the  scene  of  these  discoveries,  was  the  great  central 
meeting-point  of  the  old  races.  The  General  entered  this  field, 
zealously  seeking  scientific  and  historic  knowledge ;  and  pro- 
ceeded, year  by  year,  in  a  matchless  unfolding  of  the  growth  of 


THE  CESNOLA  COLLECTION  OF  CYPRIOTE  ANTIQUITIES.     455 

art,  and  has,  by  his  researches,  rescued  these  treasures  from 
time  and  an  unappreciative  race. 

It  is  proper  to  mention  some  of  the  conclusions  concerning 
the  collections  already  arrived  at  by  distinguished  scholars. 

These  collections  contribute  to  modern  knowledge  a  wider 
field  of  art  and  a  greater  amount  of  important  material  than 
has  ever  before  been  produced  by  any  one  discoverer.  They 
form  the  most  complete  illustration  of  the  history  of  ancient  art 
and  civilization,  revolutionizing  some  of  the  theories  of  art. 
They  contain  the  first  known  works  of  Phoenician  art,  and  in- 
troduce the  Phoenicians  as  teachers  of  the  Etruscans.  They  are 
the  key  to  the  origin  and  development  of  Greek  civilization, 
and  illustrate  the  international  encounter  of  races  and  arts  in 
Cyprus,  and  the  manner  in  which  the  civilization,  religion,  and 
arts  of  the  East  were  transmitted  to  and  adopted  by  the  Greeks 
— and  thus  they  determine  the  place  of  Greece  in  the  history  of 
art. 

The  sculptures,  the  oldest  known,  have  remodelled  the  history 
of  that  art.  The  engraved  cylinders  are  among  the  oldest  and 
rarest.  The  inscriptions  have  enabled  scholars  to  complete  the 
Cypriote  system  (the  most  perfect  of  all  the  wedge-shaped  sys- 
tems, and  the  most  curious  of  all  Asiatic  languages),  which 
ceased  to  be  used  in  the  fifth  century  B.C.  The  exhibition 
from  Golgos  is  the  greatest  find  of  statuary  ever  made  in  a 
single  locality.  The  collection  of  Archaic  Greek  fictile  art  is  the 
richest  that  now  exists.  The  Greek  and  Phoenician  glass-ware 
is  magnificent,  unique,  and  the  largest  in  existence.  The  treas- 
ures from  the  temple  vaults  of  Curium  are  the  most  precious 
single  discovery  of  ancient  art  ever  made.  The  vases  present 
entirely  new  features  in  the  history  of  ancient  potter}',  and  the 
local  ceramic  art  is  illustrated  for  a  period  of  more  than  2000 
years.  The  gems  are  a  true  revelation  of  the  history  of  glyptic 
art,  and  a  book  describing  the  rings  alone  would  be  one  of  great 
importance  in  the  history  of  Greek  taste.  The  wonderfully  rich 
handiwork  in  gold  and  silver  is  unsurpassed  in  design  and  ex- 
quisite execution,  and  the  armlets  of  Etcvandros,  King  of 
Cyprus  6/2  years  B.C.,  are  the  most  massive  articles  of  ancient 
gold  jewelry  ever  found. 

It  is  but  just  to  General  di  Cesnola,  as  a  citizen  of  the  United 
States,  to  record  the  fact  that  it  was  owing  to  his  determina- 
tion not  only  to  keep  the  collections  in  one  body  under  his  own 
name,  but  also,  if  possible,  to  secure  them  for  his  adopted  coun- 


THE  CESNOLA  COLLECTION  OF  CYPRIOTE  ANTIQUITIES. 


try,  that  the  trustees  of  the  museum  were  successful  in  their 
efforts  to  secure  them.  Had  the  General  been  less  resolute  on 
these  points,  or  more  mercenary,  the  collections  would  have 
been  broken  up  and  the  articles  sold  separately,  to  his  great 
pecuniary  benefit,  but  to  the  incalculable  loss  of  science. 

The  obligations  of  the  public  to  the  General  for  the  liberal 
course  pursued  by  him  can  hardly  be  overestimated. 

The  Trustees  of  the  Metropolitan  Museum  of  Art  cordially 
invite  all  scholars  to  a  careful  study  of  the  Cesnola  Discoveries, 
which  will  soon  be  permanently  displayed  in  their  new  buildings 
in  the  Central  Park. 


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